Hyundai Elantra 5-door

gt_fan

I've heard that if you have too much oil in the pan the crankshaft can start to make contact with it and fling it all over the place. This can in some cases foul the PCV valve and cause other trouble. Also the oil in the pan becomes aerated, causing the oil pump to run less efficiently and reducing oil pressure.

I wonder if the 4.2/4.5 number is the amount of oil that they put in a new, dry engine. There could be cavities in the engine that don't drain during an oil change, though I can't imagine it could be anything like a quart.

Either way, too high or too low, there are dangers to the engine. I'm going to do some research too, and see if there's a solid answer to the question.

On a lighter note, I found a website with an instructive example of how NOT to change your own oil:

http://www.yellowbanana.com/oil.htm

joffficer

Has anyone installed a K&N filter on there car. I have a 7" conical K&N (from a past car), and have made an adaptor to replace the airbox. The site I got the info from (elantra zone)shows an MASF sensor that my car doesn't seem to have.... air goes straight from the airbox to the throttle body (with a little resonator along the way). I'd like to remove the box, replace it with my filter and feed it with cool air (from the wheel well), but where is the MASF sensor (if any)? And does anyone know if this will void the warranty?
ps. if you have installed a K&N (panel type, or conical) was it worth it?

5port

jofficer

I have installed a panel type K&N filter in the air box and noticed slightly better high-end power. I also noticed a 1-2 mpg increase on the highway. Over the long run that makes it worth it.

As far removing the airbox I would think the dealers would not approve of that (warranty).

hudrahead

yardbird: QUIT WORRYING !!!! The 2.0 engine in the Elantra is the same as in my Tiburon. The Tibby book says refill with 4.5 quarts, with a new filter. The difference between 4.2 & 4.5 IS NOTHING to be concerned about !!

:)

jimpimms

I just had a 7,500 mi. service on my GT 5-speed. Within the past week, the engine had been racing at 2,000 rpm or better when I braked to a stop; then, after a seconds, would return to normal idle. The dealer's service dept. adjusted or replaced the throttle sensor assembly, which fixed my immediate problem. In addition, they performed an ECM (Electronic Control Module) update, per Service Bulletin 01-36-025. It seems to have cured the lag in second gear, around 40 mph, that many of you have noticed. This fix should hold true for the GLS as well. I hope this helps.

smiller678

Hi all,

I guess I want to get my 2 cents out of this oil controversy. Anyway, I have done all my own oil changes. I have changed the oil 7 times so far (have a tad over 24K miles now) on my 01 GLS. Anyway, everytime I have changed the oil, along with a filter (Purolator L14459), I have added exactly 4 quarts of oil. Once the oil is added I start the engine and let it idle for about 2 minutes checking for leaks and such. I then shut the engine off and wait for about 5 minutes. The I check the oil level. The dipstick show the oil to exactly the top of the marker on the dipstick.

Hope this doesn't add more to the confusion.

Shawn

wmoses

jimpimms said --

"Within the past week, the engine had been racing at 2,000 rpm or better when I braked to a stop; then, after a seconds, would return to normal idle. The dealer's service dept. adjusted or replaced the throttle sensor assembly, which fixed my immediate problem."

I experienced that was well -- the engine racing when I braked to a stop, usually when in second gear having shifted down from third. It was an intermittent problem.

Interestingly enough, I only started experiencing this after I installed a set of carbon fibre pedal covers to my pedals. At first I though that I mas hitting the accelerator the same time I was hitting the brake, but that was not the case. Then I thought that the weight of the pedal cover was causing the problem, but then the idle had not increased.

I took off the pedal covers and the problem stopped!

Do you have pedal covers?

I have only today put the pedal covers back on in an experiment to see if the problem comes back. I can't understand why it should be related, but if it reappears I will know what the cause is on mine.

Also, regarding the hesitation you speak about -- I thought that was with the automatic transmission only. Does it happen with the 5-speed as well?

jimpimms

wmoses wrote:
"Do you have pedal covers?"
"Also, regarding the hesitation you speak about -- I thought that was with the automatic transmission only. Does it happen with the 5-speed as well?"

No pedal covers.

I believe the problem with the automatic to which you refer has something to do with slippage, either between 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd. I was referring to a slight hesitation in the engine while accelerating in 2nd. It may happen with the automatic also, but I wouldn't know.

wmoses

jimpimms said --

"I believe the problem with the automatic to which you refer has something to do with slippage, either between 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd."

Yes, I now recall people calling it shift flare, where the revs would go up because of slippage in the tranny.

In the case of the racing of the engine I experienced, there was no slippage but a slight bit of a surge and a pushing against the brakes. Was that what you experienced as well? As I said, my car was usually in gear since I was engine braking to help stop.

It was as if the engine speed was not falling off fast enough and then there would be a slight revving as the clutch was pressed in and the stop was completed.

gt_fan

Jimpimms, my 5 spd GT has had the same racing thing you mention since it was new. When braking to a stop or just pushing in the clutch to coast (my usual gas-saving maneuver) the revs will drop to 2000, hang there for a couple of seconds and then drop the rest of the way to idle. No pedal covers, by the way. I'd bet that wmoses's surging problem is related, because that's what it would feel like if the car was in drive and the engine was trying to stay at 2000 rpm. I think I'll have the dealer take a look at my throttle sensor assembly.

yardbird

You are right, there is'nt much difference between 4.2 and 4.5 quarts. THAT point was not mine to make. There IS a difference however between 3.5 and 4.5 quarts. Ok,Ok...whatever, I get the message.

joffficer

With all the chat about the oil level I decided to go a change mine myself (let the dealer do the 1st free one at 4000 miles). I figured I'd measure the amount that came out as well. My problem was with the drain plug... It wouldn't come off. It is the first oil change, but I was putting a great deal of pressure on it. Before I stripped the head (or oil pan) I decided to let the dealer do the job.....let them fix it if it does strip out! I read somewhere about this being a problem....along with the drain plug threads being screwed up... has anyone had this problem? Is the plug steel, and the pan Al. ?

gt_fan

Sure enough, this topic came up a while back. I mentioned that I had heard that the plugs were over-tightened at the factory so I'd have the dealer do the first one. There were several people on the Elantra board over at www.hyundaiperformance.com that had trouble getting them off the first time. (I think more of those kids do their own oil changes.)

On this board, mpgman had his go south after several dealer oil changes, but it sounds like most Edmunds posters haven't had any trouble. I'm changing my own this weekend and will sure take a good look at the construction of the plug and pan. I'm also planning on installing one of those drain plug valves (if there's room) so I don't have to unscrew the plug every time. That will hopefully ease the load on the drain plug threads.

wmoses

gt_fan said --

"I'm also planning on installing one of those drain plug valves (if there's room) so I don't have to unscrew the plug every time."

Please let us know how you make out with this addition, as I am very interested as well. Where does one get one of these valves, BTW?

Regarding the oil drain plug -- I had no problems with mine. I made sure the socket was on square and then gave the handle of my ratchet wrench a couple of bangs with my fist and it came loose. When I re-installed, I used a new compressible washer (very important) and tightened to 20 ft.lbs using a torque wrench. The plug is steel and I am not sure what the pan itself is.

yardbird

Not sure if this will help but when buying your oil filter don't forget the oil plug gasket which must be purchased separately(at Hyundai Service dept). I believe it is compressible also. Without it you'll run the risk of overtightening and possible leakage.

hudrahead

yardbird: To those folks that use the "quickie" oil change places such as Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey etc. How often do you think THEY replace those washers? Like NEVER !! How come the filters don't come with a new washer? I know of no filter mfg. that includes them, do you ?

hud:):)

gt_fan

The website for Fumoto oil drain valves is:

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

They have one that fits the Elantra (or any Hyundai) for about $25. It sticks out a half an inch further than the standard plug. Before I order one I'm going to take a good look at the location of the GT's plug to make sure it's not somewhere where it might be susceptible to road debris or steep driveways. It sure would be a convenient thing to have and would avoid any real or imagined problems with the drain plug threads.

Good advice in the new plug gasket. I've always been too lazy in the past, but it's probably good leak insurance.

blackandblue

If we all call 1-800-633-5151 they might get with the program and give us some information or feed back to the dealers.

joffficer

I didn't have very good leverage on the ratchet so maybe with a couple good wacks it'll come loose. Plus I'll have to stop by and pick-up some of the washers... are they a dealer item only?
I like the sound of a valve for draining oil, but worry that it can be opened (or ripped off) TO easy. I know I've seen them for sale at Wal*Mart... don't remember how much, though.
Thanks for the help.

wmoses

gt_fan said --

"Before I order one I'm going to take a good look at the location of the GT's plug to make sure it's not somewhere where it might be susceptible to road debris or steep driveways."

The plug is on the rear of the oil pan, which is a bit of a pain in the butt if you do like me and have to use a jack / jackstands to get under the car. If you have a lift then there is no problem.

I like the idea of a valve and may go and order one. IMO there is no problem with clearance since it should not stick down past a plane through the lowest level of the oil pan.

wmoses

joffficer --

Did the ones you saw at Wally World look like the one at http://www.fumotovalve.com/ ?

Brass / stainless steel? Good quality?

wmoses

joffficer --

Did the ones you saw at Wally World look like the one at http://www.fumotovalve.com/ ?

Brass / stainless steel? Good quality?

donl68

My front fascia(plastic bumper cover) seems to be misaligned with the hood. I can see this on either side of that silver bar above the front grille. Also, the driver side headlight assembly seems misaligned as well, the rubber around it doesn't fit quite right, I'm guessing that they are related. The Edmunds.com review of the GT mentioned this. Anyone notice this on their car? I want to get this fixed but I would like to know if anyone has any experience with this. Thanks

joffficer

I'm gonna be running some erands tomorrow. So I'll check it again and let you/everyone know.

wmoses

I checked the oil drain valve/plug at Wal-Mart and they have a product from Fram called Sure Drain, selling for $12.47.

http://www.fram.com/products/acces/list.htm#suredrain

I could not see an application for 2002 Hyundais in the book catalogue. They did have part numbers for up to 2000 Hyundais, but I can't be sure that the oil pan threads and size didn't change.

It is a bit shorter than the Fumoto oild drain valves that gt_fan was mentioning, and personally I like the Fumoto product better. It would be easier to open.

joffficer

They have no listing for the 2002 Elantra. I agree Wmoses.... the fumotovalve looks easier, stronger, and no hoses to lose!
I came up with another question, though. I bought a Fram tough guard 6007 (or 6700) filter. Normally I stay clear of Fram, but That's all I can find around here anymore (I prefer AC Delco's pure gold). Now the site says I need a 7317 filter, but the book said the other.... which one is correct?

gt_fan

I'd bet that the Sure Drain application for the 2000 Hyundai's would fit later models. The Fumoto website says that their F106 valve fits all Hyundai's so the threads must be the same. I like the idea of having a screw-on hose to the drain valve to eliminate the possibility of spilling. Couldn't be any neater than that! The price is right too.
I do have a couple of concerns with the Fram valve though. When you take your car to Jiffy Lube, will they have the special device to activate the valve, or will they just have to unscrew the whole thing (and then not put on a new washer)? The Fumoto valve has a locking valve that's opened by hand. Also, if the Fram valve is built like their oil filters, it probably has cardboard end caps inside, lol!
wmoses, thanks for the info on the plug location. I ordered the Fumoto valve last night before hearing about the Fram unit, so I'll be putting off that oil change for another week until it arrives. I'll let y'all know how the valve works out.

storkdude

I did my first oil change @1500 miles. I added 3.5 q to get to the full line. After running the engine for a minute I had to add another 1/2q. I suppose it was from the oil filter and the oil galleyways. After 200 miles, it is still @ full. The drain plug was on so tight that I wondered if they welded it on.

I replace my radio and it was kind of tricky to get the front of the dash off, and there is good potential to break it if you don't do it right. If any body wants to do it I'll send you a PDF file with pictures and Identify the wires on the radio harness for you. It is avery easy task to do with the info. You can get the same sheet if you buy a radio from crutchfield.com and ask for the master sheet for a 2001 Elantra sedan. Thier prices are good (not the absolute lowest), and they will give you a free wiring harness and any adapter you may need for your car. It now sounds awesome with an equalizer, amp, and XM radio through Cerwin-Vega speakers!

Happy motoring,

tuckermaclain@yahoo.com

yardbird

It was'nt until I bought my Hyundai GT and read the shared info from other owners (on forums such as this) that I became aware of the need to include a compressable washer/gasket. Once I read that the washer/gasket must be purchased separately I've made it a point to buy 1 with every new Hyundai filter purchase. If memory serves me well I think they sell for @ .89 cents. From the get-go I've never had the problem with a overly tightened drain plug.(lucky me).

wmoses

yardbird said --

"I've made it a point to buy 1 with every new Hyundai filter purchase. If memory serves me well I think they sell for @ .89 cents."

Yes, they are not that expensive. What I have done in the past is buy half-dozen or so and have them on hand, since I mostly do my own oil changes and need to have these in stock.

Many places that change oil will re-use the flattened washers, and that is not recommended.

wmoses

storkdude said --

"I did my first oil change @1500 miles. I added 3.5 q to get to the full line. After running the engine for a minute I had to add another 1/2q. I suppose it was from the oil filter and the oil galleyways."

When I did mine at 2500 miles, I put in 3-2/3 quart -- close enough to the 4 quarts that I always put into my Elantras, so I didn't and don't really give it much thought.

There are many areas where discrepancies could lead to the observed differences in capacity between the manual and what people experience.

For instance, the manual (I am sure) is reporting dry volumetric capacity. When an oil change is done, some oil is invariably left in the engine, so right off the bat one starts with a small discrepancy.

Next comes the discrepancy in the volume contained in the bottles. I would bet that the companies overfill slightly.

Then there is the discrepancy between where the fill lines are marked on the dipsticks across all of the dipsticks manufactured for this engine. People familiar with statistical process control would appreciate this one. On a related note, the amount of curvature in the dipstick tube could also affect the reading. This too could be subject to manufacturing variances.

Then there is the capacity of the oil filters. Not everyone uses Hyundai oil filters. I have Bosch on mine at the moment. The canisters vary in size, and this could be another discrepancy.

If one were to all up all the discrepancies, I could see where there would be a difference between the owner manual's reported capacity and the actual amount one puts into the car.

With respect to the radio -- this sounds very interesting indeed. I would love to see what you did.

gt_fan

Just throwing another log on the fire of the oil quantity controversy. I picked up my 2001 Elantra Factory Shop Manual today. It says that during a drain and refill the oil quantity w/o filter is 3.91 US quarts (3.7 liter) and with filter it's 4.23 US quarts (4 liter). I also picked up a couple of oil plug washers. Read this and weep, wmoses; they're only $.86 each here. I saved a whole $.06! :-)

storkdude

I was told by Hyundai that there was only a 3 volume one that the dealers have that sells for about $600. They said late this year they would have a chilton-like one. Where did you get it and how much was it?

nevdesign

I'm a little dissapointed with the stock single CD player in my 2002 GT. I'm considering replacing it with one that can play mp3 files. Does anyone have any experience with replacing theirs. Also, does anyone have any detailed info on the stock stereo specs. I'm interested in how many watts per channel it is.

gt_fan

I got mine from Phil Long Hyundai in Colorado Springs. There are two parts, mechanical and electrical. I got the mechanical for $58.00. It's one thick book (about an inch and a half), part number PXSEB-002A. It took them about three days it order it in. I didn't get the electrical manual, but my impression was that it was about the same price. My manual does have an 80 page chapter on Body-Electrical, but no schematics.

The manual was printed in June of 2000 and appears to be for the sedan only (the body section shows trunklid replacement, but not hatch). My guess is that they'll have a GT supplement at some point, but the dealer didn't have anything listed. Most everything I would ever need to work on on my GT is common to the sedan, so that's OK with me.

gt_fan

Pardon me for posting over myself, but I thought this was kind of interesting. When I picked up those two oil plug washers, I actually asked for five. It's a long drive down there, so why not pick up a years supply? But he dealer only had two. Hmm. Makes you wonder if they use them when they do oil changes on customer cars. Draw your own conclusions.

wmoses

gt_fan said --

"When I picked up those two oil plug washers, I actually asked for five. It's a long drive down there, so why not pick up a years supply? But he dealer only had two."

When I bought six that time in Canada, I pretty much cleaned the dealer's inventory out. They wondered why I needed that many, although they knew that I did my own oil changes.

csandste

http://t-h-c.org/station-a1/

Click on Hyundai Web-Tech in the FAQ section.

storkdude

A few of you have e-mailed me asking for the info on how to replace the stereo. I'm sending some photos and step-by-step instructions to wmoses' to post on his elantra site this weekend. I did a pretty complete job. Replaced the radio with a nice one that includes a 7-band equalizer. I replaced the speakers and added a 4 channel amp which is under my seat, and XM satellite radio which has the tuner under the passenger seat, and the control module is mounted right underneath the radio. A small sub-woofer gave it nice, tight bass. (but it is definitely not a thumpy-thumpy boom-box.) It looks better than if you use an installation kit because those make the radio stick out about 3/4" and IMHO, look ugly in such a handsome interior. The only thing that requires any touch is trimming the trim panel that surrounds the radio so you can use the aftermarket face plate. This is what allows you to mount it flush. Now I only have to figure out how to scan all the stuff onto my computer for upload.

rwr1708

I am just about ready to put down a deposit on a new Elantra GT. But have a few last questions.

First, I was wondering if anyone with a manual has had a clutch replaced yet? If so, how much did it run you? Secondly, has anyone had their brakes done yet, and if so, how much was that repair?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Rich

yardbird

Wow, i guess there's quite a few variables afterall. Your observations wmoses make 'oil capacity' into a virtual zen of possibilities. I am humbled by your astute prowess in technical nirvana. Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
btw-you got a terrific Hyundai site!

joffficer

I was wondering what kind of oil filters people used with there cars. I'm avoiding the Frams (heard nothing but bad). I'd like to use something good (mobile 1, AC delco Gold, etc) but can't find the correct size for the 2002 Hyundai GT. Any ideas?
my first oil change will be the freebie from the dealer. After that I plan on using Synthetic oil (that's all I use in most of my cars). Anyone know who makes Hyundai's filters?
One more question... I noticed a very faint buzzing coming from the door panel (sometimes). I read earlier about tightening the panel screws.. does this include the plastic 'rivet' on the side of the door. And how about whatever is under the plastic plug on the door pull/handle?

csandste

insisting that they substitute the Super-Tech for the Fram. I think they list a Fram size at Wal-Mart which isn't usually carried. If the Super-Tech matches up with the other Champion Labs filter sizes, I would expect that each of those brands have similar (and more common) sized filters which will fit Hyundais. Champion Labs doesn't make the specific size for Hyundai so they just match up the more common filter in their database for SuperTech.

One of the earlier variations of the MiniMopar filter study used to mention that the Mobil 1 was built heavier than other Champion Labs filters but that there had been some incidents of filters splitting. Always wondered whether the Mobil 1's filtering media put more pressure on the filter case, why else would they be built so much heavier?

joffficer

I've been reading about filters here in the maintenance section... it seems Walmart's supertech filters are pretty good. Not to mention they are less then $2 here in NJ. I think I'm still going to find out if I can get a PureOne for the my GT, though. The difference in size/weight between that and a champion for my other car is quite a bit!

ziglifler

tonight i went into the supermarket and locked the car with the keyless entry and when i came out i used the key to open the hatch . and an alarm went off and the parking lights blinked . i guess that is the alarm that comes with the car . don't know if anybody else has come across this but i thought i would let all that read this furom know .

joffficer

The alarm, once set, will go off if any door is open and it hasn't been turn off (even if you use the key). If you get in the car and turn the ignition to 'on' it will turn off... of course you can use the remote also.
I did the same one day with the hood. I locked the car with the key fob, but after I popped the hood (to check the oil, etc). When I closed the hood the alarm went off. Nice to know that the alarm works

wmoses

Yes, ziglifler, that is the way it works. Only if you lock the car with the key fob is the alarm activated. Locking the doors with the central locking system (either front door lock) locks the car, but does not activate the alarm.

If one locks with the key fob one has open a door after unlocking with same. Or hear that terrible "power beep" -- one of the very few things I am not too fond of on the car.

I also wished they put a blinking light to indicate that the car had an alarm. Not many car thieves "know" that the GT comes standard with an alarm. The light serves as a deterrent to many of these, who would simply move on to another car rather than deal with the hassle of an alarm. Without the light they might still try to gain entry to the car.

5port

jofficer...

I use Hyundai oil filters on my car for warranty reasons. I had the dealer do the first oil change then I ordered 10 Hyundai oil filters from :

www.hdkautosport.com

10 oil filters cost $39.99 or $3.99 each plus shipping.

wmoses

I agree on the blinking light on the dashboard. I plan to go to Radio Shack and get a 12V blinking LED that I can install on the dash. I think they mention the alarm on the small stick-on window stickers but they are so faint you cant read them.

scottsaba

Thought I might post this tidbit:
I had problems with the gas gauge reading full on my GT the last two fillups. I had been resetting the trip computer before I got out to gas the vehicle up and today I decided to experiment. I gassed up first, then reset the trip computer.
Guess what.... No problem with the gauge. 4500 Miles and not a single complaint with the car, fun to drive this smooth 5 speed.

gt_fan

Joffficer, you can indeed get the Purolator PureOne filter for the GT. Part number is PL14459. I'd heard good things about this filter so when I saw them on sale at Advance Auto Parts a got a couple of them.