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Chevy Silverado Accessories

pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
Here is the new place to discuss your Silverado and/or Sierra accessories. Happy Motoring. ;-)

Pickups Message Board


  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    My truck the walking billboard for

    Westin, wade, rhino, go rhino, husky


  • maxamillion2maxamillion2 Member Posts: 5
    ordered a 2500hd and noticed on the top of the tail gate the new extended lip chevy has installed do you know of any makers of bed caps namely the solid fiber glass that clamp on to bed and has a good locking system on it...... leave my hunting gear in back all of hunting season....
  • lwittorflwittorf Member Posts: 96
    I have been looking at caps and found that the snug top locks with a rod that goes to both sides and they take the whale tale off and put a round plastic cap over the tail gate and then the cap door comes down over it like the old style ones did before they came out with the whale tail. Looked like a good deal to me think that is what I am going to get as the fit was so good.[saw one on a pu just like mine]
  • sartisarti Member Posts: 16
    I would like some info on lifting the front end of my truck to level it out. It would sure look better if the front end was up higher. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    The rear is higher because of what you'll put in the back, in other words Payload. When you go to fill the "business end" up it will level itself out.

    That said, you can crank up the torsion bars usually 1"-1.5". That should do it, any further than that and your ride will become "stiff".
    hope this helps.
  • meetturbomeetturbo Member Posts: 5
    Will raising the front end of the truck also require a (front end) alignment? I dont know much about chevys but most trucks would, right?
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    An alignment can't hurt. If you go 1 1/2" I think you should have it done..They only run $40-50. If not keep an eye on tour tire wear. Keep them rotated.

    My .02$
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    I turned the trosion bar adjusting bolts up 3 full turns about 5000 miles ago. The front is still somewhat down, but not as radical and there does not seem to be any appreciable wear on the front tires....you might be able to get away with doing something as simple.
  • keith24keith24 Member Posts: 93
    I've recently bought a 1997 Chewy Silver ado regular cab, 4x4, 350/auto, etc, etc. Its only got 32,000 miles, was owned by an alder couple, and was METICULOUSLY taken care of! When I picked it up, it looked like it could have just rolled off the show room floor!

    I checked the mileage on my first tank. I got 16 mpg. That was with my foot in it most of the time, too! I've talked to people I know that get 17-19 mpg in extended cab 4x4s, so I'm guessing its just about right.

    However, will dual exhaust help the mileage? Theoretically, it should. I'd rather not spend the extra coin for a full cat-back setup. I was thinking about a Flow master 70 series, single in, dual out. Just to get a little keeper tone to it. But, I wonder if it would be better to wait & go with a "true dual" setup from the manifolds back. I'd have to buy another muffler, another cat, and stuff. I just don't know. The only thing I've ever put dual on is my old 73 Scout II. ANYWAY...................

    It might be easier to just keep my foot out of it!

    Also, my truck didn't have the factory CD player. Its got the slot for it, and it has the auxiliary button on the factory head unit. Will this unit work with & run the factory CD player? I can locate the CD player itself, thats not a problem. I may be better off to add on an aftermarket changer.

    Other than that, I can't find any problems with the truck! It runs great, has PLENTY of power, pulls my duck boat just fine.
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    I have the same question as keith24 reguarding the 70 series muffler from flowmaster..
    Is there any input out there?

  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    I am also considering adding duals. Either the 50 or 70 series flowmasters. Although as I understand it, the truck I ordered will have dual cats so I would think it would make more sense to go with a true dual set up as opposed to one muffler. Is there such a thing as "not enough" back pressure on the exhaust system?

    Any feedback as to the sound difference between the 50 and 70 would be appreciated.
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    True your truck will have 2 cats but they feed into one pipe...

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You bring up an interesting point. I had originally installed the Gibson Sweptside dual in single 3" out. I lost a lot on the lowend. If you're planning on a dual system, make sure the pipes are no larger than 2.25". Even at that, you will lose on the lowend.

    What I did was scrap the Gibson and went with a PV system. Dyno'd at 20 HP gain over stock with a dual in single out configuration. The test truck was a '99 rado with Flowmasters installed. After installing the PV, it dyno'd a 30 HP increase. I guess that means that installing the flowmasters caused a loss of 10 HP. For more info, you can check the link below. You can also go the the Pacific Audio site and do a search on PV.

    http://www.pvmufflers.com (Pacific Audio site)

    BTW, I'm not affiliated with pvmufflers, just a satisfied customer. After the Gibson, I was really leary about spending another $4- 500 on another system that would cause a loss on the lowend. Glad I went with this system. Also the Gibson had a ton of resonance where this system, though a little louder has no resonance.
  • erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    A while ago I posted a message which gave approximate dimensions of the factory air dam openings for the fog lights, and which also mentioned that several PIAA models would fit, but that all the Hella models seemed to be too large; unfortunately, the "update" to Town hall has made searching for specific messages far too labor-intensive for me to try and find that posting. Does anybody else have those dimensions at hand?

    Since that posting, PIAA has released a replacement air dam for the Silverado which allows the mounting of larger, round lamps (go to www.piaa.com and look on the "accessories" page to see it). Has anybody purchased this air dam, and, if so, how do you like it?

    Also since then, I have found that Hella's North American Web site (www.hellanorthamerica.com) describes the "Optilux" line of lights, which is not shown on their main Web site. It looks like several models in the Optilux line would also fit the factory air dam openings. Does anybody have any information about Optilux lights, and specifically about the 2020 fog/driving combo light?

    Finally, if Mike L. is monitoring this discussion, do you have an update on the PIAA 980 lights you installed a while back?
  • erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    Sorry, I should have mentioned that my original post was in one of the older "Chevy Silverado Continued" discussions (was it I, VI, VII...? Incredible to think that we're now up to VIII and about ready for IV on that thread!)
  • erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    Sorry again, looks like Edmunds also needs to do a little more work on the spellchecker. Previous post should have read "(was it V, VI, VII...? Incredible to think that we're now up to XVIII and about ready for XIV!)".
  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
  • erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    Here's an interesting toolbox for those of us hauling slide-in campers: http://detnews.com/gadget/9710/07/truckbed/truckbed.htm
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    At the risk of being off topic in the Silverado XVIII discussion since this issue was posted in that discussion a week or so ago, I tought it fitting that I take a moment of time to post the conclusion there and now over here.

    I received the Poron Back-Up Aid kit for an open bed truck that I ordered last week. The kit is very straight forward. Everything is plug-in using phone line type jacks, with the exception of the power and ground wires that the installer has to use scotch lock type connectors on.

    Here is the best part for those of you who maybe considering this device...and thanks to Obyone for some additional insight! $100 off of the price!!!!!!!! By typing "Edmunds" in the "Comments" box on the online order form, from which you get an automatic $50 discount, you do get an additional $50 discount! I got the mini3LV unit 3 sensor system with the digital distance display.


    -$50.00 internet ordering discount

    -$50.00 Edmunds discount

    + $8.00 freight

    $157.99 charged to my cc

    attached was a note:

    Thanks for your business. Your $50.00 discount is reflected in your invoice. Please note that this is a limited time offer. Please tell your friends about the $50.00 savings before the promotion ends.

    The internet order form does not calculate the 2nd $50 off, but it shows up on the invoice that is billed to your cc. Shipping was fast too, it had to come across the country from the left coast.

    Thanks Oby.



    BTW will look at truck to start installation tomorrow as weather supposed to clear somewhat out here.

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I received my poron unit last week, the day before the truck went into dealers to do some warranty work. I kept looking for different locations to mount the sensors and could only come up with the area above the liscense plate and on the rear lights. Where have you decided to mount yours? Also the control unit is supposed to be mounted in an area where it won't get wet or dirty. Since I have a tonneau was thinking of mounting in the bed. Then again, in the cab seems a lot better. Your thoughts?

    Do you find it hard to discuss things without wondering if the posts will be deleted? For perhaps being off topic or having too many LOL!! and He he he!! It seems that LMFAO is acceptable though.

    Look forward to your opinion....

  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    I will get back to you on this as it is snizzling like crazy here in RI...ya' know snowy-drizzle.

    The above the license for the center one, though I don't know how that is going to work out when I have the trailer in tow...maybe a master switch to turn it off with trailer on and backing up. The cables from the sensors seem to be long enough that they should run up into the cab. I will try to run them through the casing that holds the truck's rear lights harness wiring. The controller I was planning on mounting under the center console to be able to still hear the audible alarm, yet still have some muffling of the "blips". The visual display module, I will probably mount on top of the rear-view mirror as I have the photochromatic/temp/compass mirror that is not straight on the bottom. Once the weather cooporates I will provide more detail here.

    On the other subject:
    Good "netizenship" demands that some inflection be added to typed conversations to provide the reader with an understanding of the meaning of the words, since there is no tone of voice by which the listener may be able to discerne the true meaning of those words. I learned this when using CompuServe many years ago when it was suggested to use the imagecons :-) ;-| :-( 8-) and such. They seem much less conversational, however, when there are a bunch who regulary post and know each other by only the words we see on the screen. The "sidebar" comments provide us all, the lurkers included, with a sense of personality of those who post. Some of the comments might be considered mean spirited without the poster being able to "smile" in words... It seems, apparently, that some don't realize that LOL and hehe is necessary...'nuff said.

    Again thanks for the tip on the savings hehe
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Crank up the torsion bars 6 rounds.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Thanks for the response. Maybe I should install mine as I got my truck back from the shop. Well, maybe tomorrow.
  • psp1996psp1996 Member Posts: 18

    I was thinking of purchasing the poron backup system and was wondering how it workout for you and any others that purchased it.

    Thanks, Lewis
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I've had it for about 10 days and have yet to install it as I've just got my truck back from warranty work from the dealer. Will look at the instructions today and hopefully install tonight when it gets a little cooler.
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    To you folks who are asking about the need for a front alignment when adjusting the torsion bars - for whatever my thoughts are worth. Since I own part of a alignment and brake shop in Bellflower, CA, I called my manager and asked him the question. His comment was that anytime you adjust the torsion bars, you are changing the geometrics of the front end system, and therefore you probably would increase tire wear. He said he would at least recommend a qualified shop to check the need for an alignment after the bars are adjusted. He also recommended that the pickup be loaded as you do most of your driving for the best results.
  • 64roadster64roadster Member Posts: 19
    Just saw a new 2001 Silver ado 1500 4X2 with a 3" Fabtech lift. Stance of truck looked great and the ride was also very impressive.
    I'd love to buy one (I'm loyal to Chevrolet, Already own a Corvette, Suburban and Blazer), But ...... I have seen alot of negative press for the "New" design Silver ado's (1999 on).
    Are the bugs worked out now and the 2001 model year "safe"?
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    You've seen a lot of complaints about the new Silverado's because the guys who have problems are a lot more vocal than those of us who have trouble free trucks. And there are a lot more trouble free trucks than problem laden trucks.

    I have two Silverado's, a 99 and a 00. Both have been relatively trouble free. I've only hade two service visits that weren't recalls - a rattle that turned out to be in the 4wd shift linkage and a cracked rear slider. The recalls were for things that were not a problem for me, but had potential to be problems.

    I'm glad I got the 99, it has 30,000 miles and runs like a top. The 00 only has 10,000 miles and is just broken in. Love them both.

    A bigger concern for me (after reading these newsgroups) would be the dealer's service department. Some dealers seem to be very helpful and some seem to not want to deal with customers after delivery. I've had good luck with the dealer I bought from and the dealer closest to me.

    Mike L
  • silveradobobsilveradobob Member Posts: 10
    Don't want to change my factory exhaust completely...just change to a muffler that will give a lower/deeper-sounding/throatier tone without being offensive (inside or outside). Which muffler would you suggest? I have a 2001 LS ext.cab SB Z71 w/5.3 and 3.73's Thanks

    ps...would using window ventvisors and a bugshield cause any wind noise ?
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    try looking at www.flowmastermufflers.com. It has some pretty good information about their systems. I am also thinking about replacing the muffler and maybe even converting to dual. However,I called flowmaster and they don't have any reccomendation for the 2001 6.0 yet.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    part no. 12258. 2.5" in and dual 2.25" out.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    I have a '00 Silverado LT, ext cab, 4dr, 5.3 liter 3.73 rear. I replaced my stock muffler (too quiet) with the Flowmaster DeltaFlow 70 series, single in, dual out, with the side exit pipes. This is the muffler that GM should have put on these trucks. No resonance, quiet low purring sound. (it may be too quiet for some). Takes about two hours to remove old muffler (stored in basement) and install new one. All bolts, brackets, hangers, etc provided.

    Blackmax (Matt) recommended it to me and even sent some .wav files with different pickup points (in the cabin, at the rear wheel, etc)
    Hope this helps.
  • paintdudepaintdude Member Posts: 15
    If you raise the front of the unit you will increase the negative camber..The top of the wheels will be in..that also can toe the front end out or in..really messing up your original alignment..I would not do it unless you have it realigned by a good front end shop...
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    The theory's worse than practical reality. Been tuning the front end height of Chevy 4X4s by adjusting the torsion bars for 15+ years with no substantive negative steering geometry, ride, or tire wear effects (except the older S-10's which worked better with the ball joints relocated at full lift). The current generation 1500 Silverado's are worse than past models for nose down rake unloaded, but with six full turns on the bars to almost level out the front end the camber and toe still stay well within spec and the ride and handling is unaffected; at least with the Z-71 retrofitted with a decent set of shocks.
    -- Don
  • paintdudepaintdude Member Posts: 15
    I have been in the bussiness 25 yrs and I am suprised to hear that the truck is still in specs with the front raised so much..I learn something new every day..(That keeps me young, LOL)..I still wont do it to mine...I guess I will have to see it to believe it..
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    I am kind of in your camp on this one. The shop I own has been operated by the family since March 1, 1967. It is located in Bellflower CA and we get every possible combination of raised and lowered vehicles and have for many years. Our work comes from collision shops, dealers, and about every other combination you can think of. One of our customers specializes in customizing brand new Chev pickups, mostly 1/2, 3/4, and 1 Ton. All the customized vehicles are sent to our shop for front end alignments. Granted they sometimes do pretty radical changes, but the front ends always need realigning. It is my understanding that cranking up the torsion bars will make it rougher riding which stands to reason to me. On the other hand, if a person wishes to do so, then go for it. We make a lot of money helping folks do just that. For my 2001 2500HD, LB, 8.1, it is going to stay right where it is at. As a little side note, there are a number of our long term customers who buy brand new cars, then drive them right over to the shop and have them aligned. We just had a brand new Cadillac in last week.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    paintdude/cowboyboyjohn1 -- Well, guys, all I can say is been there, done that. Current models, at least mine, stay in spec. Ride and handling are at least equal to stock. Original shocks don't like the added extension. But since Chevy got away from Bilstein's and started putting junk, really low end Monroes on the Z-71 1500's in '99 it doesn't matter, they need to be changed anyway. Don't know about the 2500/2500HD's or anything else, but if you own a custom focused alignment shop and a 1/2 ton 4x4 Chevy it might be worth the time and effort to play around with the front end and see what you can do with it.
    -- Don
  • paintdudepaintdude Member Posts: 15
    Something else to consider..With the highth and preload of the front suspension being altered from stock..The alignment SPECS may be different than original,also..are the specs the same on a 3/4 ton 4 by4 as a 1/2 ton 4by4 ? Just a thought..
  • owenm2owenm2 Member Posts: 4
    I ordered my 2500HD 4wd with the snow plow prep package. Brochure says it includes a higher capacity front suspension, but no one at GM can say what that is. Ideas? Thx....
  • paintdudepaintdude Member Posts: 15
    GMC says it is different torsion bars..
  • owenm1owenm1 Member Posts: 29
    Thx paintdude, I finally got a GMC dealer to state that the bars had an additional 300lb rating. Amazing that no one at GMC, where the trucks are designed and built, can't answer a tech question. I called Pontiac, MI, referred to 3 other offices, then Warren, MI, then Austin, TX. All had no clue of a technical assistance point of contact. All said to call the dealer!
    Once I get a factory service and parts manual, I might crack this code.

  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    Adjusting your torsion bars may or may not cause the front geometrics to get out of spec. However, as a suggestion, if you get a good front alignment shop to do a check, then you will know. Our shop charges $12.50 for a checking toe-in, camber, and castor - and for that little bit it would be worth the piece of mind for me.
  • ultra3ultra3 Member Posts: 4
    Hi all, I frequently check this sight, but havent seen much lately about performance mods. I have a 2001 GMC 5.3, 3.73, 2WD EC SB. Has anyone tried the hyper-tech power programmer. How about the AIR-RAID Intake or K&N Generation II air intake. Finally, I am considering a CAT-BACK exhaust. What are your preferences and did you notice a performance improvement with these mods. These 3 items are about $900.00. Do you think they are worth the Cash? Thanks in Advance. Howie
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I've done all three...some a couple times over.
    First get the HPIII can't do without it. Air intake the K&N FIPK is better and the PV system for the catback by itself will give you about 20 HP. Having done all three I can tell you not to do it unless you need a tax write off....well maybe the exception would be the PV system.
  • sierra2500hdsierra2500hd Member Posts: 32

    Excuse me for being a little dense, but what did you mean by "don't do it unless you need a tax write off?" I'm assuming that you meant milage, but I just wanted to be sure. I'm probably going to do all three to my HD.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What I meant by that is to not do it unless you have money to throw away as the returns for the amount spent can't be justified. If you're looking for performance increase, there are more cost justifiable ways than bolt ons. However, it may void, no, let me rephrase that, it may make it more difficult to obtain the manufacturers warranty by changing pistons, cam, intake manifold, supercharger.

    By adding the FIPK and the HPIII, you will not notice any difference in performance or mileage. And that's after spending $500. The PV system can be felt in the seat of the pants, and that's why I said it may be the exception. The only reason I stated that you can't do without the HPIII is the options that it gives you for reprogramming but still isn't worth the money it costs to do what it does.
  • sierra2500hdsierra2500hd Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the clarification.

    I have no interest in making major changes to my HD such as pistons, cams, etc. Not with a truck that only has a 1000 miles on it anyway. I'm getting the Hypertech mostly to get rid of the speed limiter, any other benefits, no matter how small they may be, that come with it are a bonus in my eyes.

    I probably won't bother with the FIPK. The PV system is something that I'm going to think about...probably will get it.

    Thanks for the advice.

  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    I had done all three and a Jacob's pro-street ignition package also to my '99. Except for the exhaust sound and the intake noise (both louder) there wasn't much rewards for the investment. The hypertech III did make much improvements in the trans, and I was very happy with that.
    On another note, my highway mpg did increase with the Hypertech / 160 degree thermostat programming, and I ran a 180 thermostat in the winter, so that rewarded my investment.
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    I just added a set of the Westin CPS nerf bars to my 2500HD Crew Cab. They look good and the kids can actually climb in by themselves now. I also ordered a set of the Putco bed rails that will be in next week. Can anyone tell me why I should not add these because of problems, bad experiences etc?
  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    I posted the following message/question on the general Silverado board and didn't get any response, so thought I'd try it here.
    I recently installed a "Power Tower" helix throttle body spacer, and this weekend installed a K&N Generation 2 filtercharger kit. The only problem was that with the throttle body spacer installed, the clearance between the fan shroud and the throttle body was too tight to fit the K&N intake tubing in. The clearance was so tight that I felt lucky to get the stock tubing to fit back into place. The K&N installation instructions said that some trimming of the fan shroud may be needed to fit the intake tube into place, and that is without the throttle body spacer installed. I wasn't about ready to start butchering my fan shroud. Has anyone installed a K&N Gen. 2, and if you did, did you have to trim the fan shroud? Also, does anyone know how much difference the K&N intake tube makes versus the stock intake tube? I figured the cold air dam and the filter were the 2 most important elements of the K&N system.
This discussion has been closed.