Chevy Silverado Accessories



  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I could have sworn I answered that one. Or did I not press the post button?

    You will have to butcher it to get it in. You can find more info here:

  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    Thanks for the link. I don't want to trim the shroud because I may be trading my truck in the future and want to be able to remove the add-ons and not have it look butchered up afterwards. I guess I'll just use the factory intake tubing. Have a good weekend.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    comment before I give up on this.
    Paintdude -- Good point. Factory specs optimize for factory spec ride height and consequent suspension geometry. All I can say is that I've had continued good luck working off the factory numbers. Don't know if the 2500 specs are the same as the 1500 or not on the "new" trucks.
    cowboyjohn1 -- Agree. I wouldn't think of making any significant adjustments on a suspension system, independent especially, without checking it out with a really good shop afterwards.
    -- Don
    btw -- obyone: Bought the Hypertech for my 5.3 to correct tire size, remove the speed limiter, (effectively), and firm up the shifts. Was happy to find it also seemed to make a performance difference. Thought it might be my imagination, so switched back and forth a few times. Still there. Low rpm torque bump seems to be the biggest part of it and can get most of that effect on the 87 octane program. Live at 6000+ feet; maybe that's part of it -- could be a more efficient program for thin air.
  • davidebrowndavidebrown Member Posts: 13
    (3 Volumes, official GM)Service Manuals for 1999 CK (Silverado/Sierra) for sale, bought for my 1999, sold truck. They cost me about 135 as I recall, would like 100$ They are in great shape, will include shipping, I think I only opened the first volume. Please respond to [email protected] Also have Yakima racks to fit a Leer Cap if interested.

  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    Kansan, after reading your post I couldn't help but wonder if you were able to get your hood closed with that set up??

    Just wondering..

  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    Didn't have any problems with the hood closing, but it did take quite a bit of twisting and hand fitting to get the intake tube onto the throttle body after the spacer was installed. The intake tube is now pressed up against the fan shroud, and like I said in my earlier post, there was no way the K&N intake tube would fit without trimming the shroud, and then you might run into clearance problems with the fan itself. If you decide to put a throttle body spacer on I would recommend investing in some real small "star head" sockets, as the throttle body is fastened to the intake with studs and nuts, not bolts, and after the nuts are removed, you have to remove the studs which have a star head on them. There isn't much clearance to get to the studs, and it was a real pain getting the studs out without the star head socket. Because the studs aren't long enough after the spacer is installed, K&N supplies bolts for installation of the throttle body and spacer. They also don't mention it but after you install the spacer you'll have to adjust the throttle linkage a little or it will idle at about 1500 RPMs.
  • blacksilverblacksilver Member Posts: 69
    The originals are lame (came standard on my 2001 LT) and one of them fell off.

    Anyone know of a *good* unit that will fit in this opening, maybe from PIAA or similar?

  • erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    Common complaint. Go back and read my post #15 in this discussion, and also do a search on "fog lights" over at the Pacific Audio GM Truck Forum (

    Whatever you do, DON'T put in bulbs higher than 38W, unless you like the smell of melting plastic!
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    see the following link for service bulletins, service manuals, recall notices from GM

       ""http://si2kgmd:[email protected]/si2000/home.html""

       Several pages of the 2000 Service Manual ($125.00) have been compared to the online data.

       They appear to be exactly the same..

    remove the double quotes from the ends

  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I'm looking to get one of those diamond-tread Single-Lid Crossover Tool Boxes for my 2001 ext-cab Z-71. Does anyone have some suggestions on a good brand to get? I've seen those Delta boxes before but it appears that both the steel model and the black plastic model always seem to show some significant sagging in the middle.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240

    they make nice ones thinking of getting a black diamond plate but they are like $5-600

  • parkpointerparkpointer Member Posts: 4
    Don't know if anyone has seen this yet, thought it would be good news. I recently ordered a new protector package for my 2001 X-cab 4x4 from my local chevy dlr. Consists of: Hood bug-deflector, vent visors for all side windows, set of 4 (flat) mud flaps, and the over-the-rail bed protectors savings @$50 over separate pricing.
  • akplateakplate Member Posts: 4
    If you do not mind asking, how much was the pkg? I priced the bug-deflector, @$110.25, mud flap @$43 at local dealer. I really like to get Fender flares but ther are $212 for pair.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    get a lund interceptor deflector

    Only $49.99

    Works great no drilling

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240

    Pictures of all my accessories (i have a bunch)


  • winnyvwinnyv Member Posts: 30
    Does anyone know where to find carpeted floor mats w/GMC logo on them to replace rubber ones that came with vehicle(2001 Sierra 1500-Ext. Cab).Thanks.
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255

    They have quite a few selections, including the carpeted ones with logos


  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472

    I've got a charcoal set of these Lloyd mats for my 2001 Silverado from Stylin Concepts magazine. They were cheaper there.

    I really like them.


  • edtolmanedtolman Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had a lift installed on a 2000 Silverado 4WD with success? I'm looking to do so and wondered what might be best.
  • edtolmanedtolman Member Posts: 3
    This is just a comment regarding selfinflating lumbar in both drivers and passenger seats. I've had the problem almost since day one. Has anyone else heard of this?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    post your question over at

    there are a bunch of guys with 1500 Z71 lifts Pics also


  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The site is for dealers only. Admission is no longer free. If you need details of a particular TSB, post it here or email me and I'll see if I can access the info.
  • dmnsmith2dmnsmith2 Member Posts: 21
    I have been unable to find a 01 1500, z71, ext cab with a sliding rear window or dual exhaust. Are these even options anymore? Would I have to get these aftermarket? TIA!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yep gotta get em yourself

    Never heard of a dual exhaust being a factory option

    slider was but they had problems
  • clarkebdclarkebd Member Posts: 7
    Has anyone treed the HARD Locking Toneau cover seen on the GM Accessories web site?

    Or does anyone have any experience with any other HARD lock toneau cover?

  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    I have an ARE cover, clamp-on rails, hinged in the front, color-matched-looks good, works good. I had one on a previous truck too for 6 years with no problems, even survived a hail storm!
  • brickeybrickey Member Posts: 9
    Anybody put a shift kit in their automatic tranny (I have a 2000 Z71)? I would like my transmission to stay in gear a little longer before it shifts.

    Also, anyone know of a quality, inexpensive soft tonneau (preferrably snapless) or who has the best prices on covers?

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    try an HPIII (hypertech)
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    Listen to Ryan, it is much easier to install than a shift-kit, and does actually work well.

    Did I just say listen to Ryan, scary!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yea the shiftfirmness setting might be all your looking for.

  • 64roadster64roadster Member Posts: 19
    Anybody replaced their front grill inserts with the aftermarket billet's?
    I'm curious if there is any difference in the brands and their quality, ease of installation/ amount of modification to grill, etc.
    If you could post pictures of your modified front grill that would be greatly appreciated!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Two types....those that require removal of the old grill and those that cover the old grill. I prefer to remove the old grill
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    I was going to say "listen to Ryan", too. But I didn't think that sounded right.
    -- Don
  • tommyclarktommyclark Member Posts: 5
    Anyone knows where to buy inserts for my rear wheel wells 2001 2500HD crew 4x4. When i take it off road the inside of the rear bumper and other areas get fully embedded with mud/sand. I installed mud flaps but there is still a large gap for mud to fly everywhere under the bed!
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    JCWhitney sells them for the old body style. I have not found them for the new body style. The sport side (step side) trucks have them from the factory. I have been trying to find out if these will fit the fleet side truck. Anyone out the know?
  • truckchictruckchic Member Posts: 105
    Help again guys!

    I'm looking at those spray in liners. Called Zeibart, got prices of 444 and 449 for under the rail Rhino Lining.

    (Recap: 2001 GMC Sierra short bed)

    There is only one Line-X dealer who is close to me. There are I think 6 in the 'area' but that area is a cruise!

    Please list your thoughts again on Rhino vs. LineX and what's the true difference if any?

    I want to get this before winter.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    rhino bubblier

    line-x seems rougher. Doesnt look like cottage cheese

    i have dealt with both (i have rhino and i have seen many trucks with line x at menards)

    I think they are both very good. Cant go wrong with either really

    No regrets with my rhino.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    tougher, if usually sprayed a bit thinner, and has a bit less "grip" because it's harder. It's also a high pressure, fast dry system which is less susceptible to runs and can get you out the door of the shop with a fully cured liner in a total of 2 hours or less. I finally made up my mind after reading a "comparo" in one of the 4X4 truck mags (4 Wheel and Off Road, I think) about a year ago. Rhino was a lot easier to gouge with screwdriver/shovel. It also didn't do well when they shot it with 00 buck, but they did admit that probably wasn't relevant. Either one is repairable if it gets damaged. For what it's worth, I'm extremely pleased with the Line-X after a year's worth of abuse, including a nasty hailstorm where it totally saved my bed rails, and personally wouldn't consider any other spray-in liner.
    -- Don
  • jimdahl225jimdahl225 Member Posts: 4
    I have had a Line-X over-the rail liner in my 99 LT since June of 1999. Holds up extremely well. Seems to be very tough. Also the Line-X product is much harder than the Rhino. I would buy it again. My Opinion!

  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    Have the Line-X in mine and so far its holding up well, but its under a Pace Edwards roll top cover so it SHOULD be holding up well. I'll agree with the speed of the install. Waited at the shop while they did mine and was out within two hours with a totally dry liner.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    Can anyone recommend a tonneau cover for an 01 Silverado shortbed?

    Im looking for the vinyl/leather rail type. Preferably with snaps in the rail.

  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    There are several good covers with snaps out there; Extang's one. But if you want to spend a few more bucks for something vinyl that really doesn't whip around in the wind and gives instant, complete access to the bed,take a look at the Access cover.
    -- Don
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    on my '92 Sportside and liked it real well. It ran just inder $300 installed. No holes to drill. After about a yr. I noticed the stiching on the top coming loose so I contacted the company. They sent me a new cover for $50 (supposedly cost). In '95 I had an accident and intended to get rid of the truck so I gave the cover to my Son-in-Law who used it a few more years. I did the swap from my truck to his and it was pretty simple.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    guys for the info. I am looking into an Extang. Even if it last's a few years.. it will give me enough time to save up for the A.R.E. fiberglass tonneau.

    Have you ever heard of having to take off the "whale tail" on the tailgate door to get these to fit properly. One of the guys in a local 4x4 shop told me I had to? Any thoughts?
  • mrurlmrurl Member Posts: 116
    Yes, the shop has to take off the "whale tail" and replace it with a standard one like the tailgate cap on the Sierra.

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    When i first seen the new silverados my fav feature was the Whale Tail

  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    one from the Sierra something I can get from GMC? I called them and they told me that I had to get an "aftermarket" one???

    Ryan - I hear ya but I need the cover man!
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Yes it will have to be removed but keep it in your basement w/the screws that fasten it to tailgate. The standard issue one for the Rado's/GMC will fit and is obtainable thru dealer. The aftermarkets work also but just watch the fit, my aftermarket is not the best and the 3m doublesided tape comes loose all the time, I attribute that to the damn threaded inserts that are installed in the tailgate for the screws of the whaletail, they hold it out away from the surface just enough to not get full pressure contact along length of tailgate..

    Ray T.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    which uses the holes on the inside of the tailgate to attach itself and covers the holes on the outside. Plust its made of stainless making it virtually indestructible.
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