Thanks for the link. I don't want to trim the shroud because I may be trading my truck in the future and want to be able to remove the add-ons and not have it look butchered up afterwards. I guess I'll just use the factory intake tubing. Have a good weekend. Ken
comment before I give up on this. Paintdude -- Good point. Factory specs optimize for factory spec ride height and consequent suspension geometry. All I can say is that I've had continued good luck working off the factory numbers. Don't know if the 2500 specs are the same as the 1500 or not on the "new" trucks. cowboyjohn1 -- Agree. I wouldn't think of making any significant adjustments on a suspension system, independent especially, without checking it out with a really good shop afterwards. -- Don btw -- obyone: Bought the Hypertech for my 5.3 to correct tire size, remove the speed limiter, (effectively), and firm up the shifts. Was happy to find it also seemed to make a performance difference. Thought it might be my imagination, so switched back and forth a few times. Still there. Low rpm torque bump seems to be the biggest part of it and can get most of that effect on the 87 octane program. Live at 6000+ feet; maybe that's part of it -- could be a more efficient program for thin air.
(3 Volumes, official GM)Service Manuals for 1999 CK (Silverado/Sierra) for sale, bought for my 1999, sold truck. They cost me about 135 as I recall, would like 100$ They are in great shape, will include shipping, I think I only opened the first volume. Please respond to debrown@bignet.net. Also have Yakima racks to fit a Leer Cap if interested.
Didn't have any problems with the hood closing, but it did take quite a bit of twisting and hand fitting to get the intake tube onto the throttle body after the spacer was installed. The intake tube is now pressed up against the fan shroud, and like I said in my earlier post, there was no way the K&N intake tube would fit without trimming the shroud, and then you might run into clearance problems with the fan itself. If you decide to put a throttle body spacer on I would recommend investing in some real small "star head" sockets, as the throttle body is fastened to the intake with studs and nuts, not bolts, and after the nuts are removed, you have to remove the studs which have a star head on them. There isn't much clearance to get to the studs, and it was a real pain getting the studs out without the star head socket. Because the studs aren't long enough after the spacer is installed, K&N supplies bolts for installation of the throttle body and spacer. They also don't mention it but after you install the spacer you'll have to adjust the throttle linkage a little or it will idle at about 1500 RPMs. Ken
I'm looking to get one of those diamond-tread Single-Lid Crossover Tool Boxes for my 2001 ext-cab Z-71. Does anyone have some suggestions on a good brand to get? I've seen those Delta boxes before but it appears that both the steel model and the black plastic model always seem to show some significant sagging in the middle.
Don't know if anyone has seen this yet, thought it would be good news. I recently ordered a new protector package for my 2001 X-cab 4x4 from my local chevy dlr. Consists of: Hood bug-deflector, vent visors for all side windows, set of 4 (flat) mud flaps, and the over-the-rail bed protectors savings @$50 over separate pricing.
If you do not mind asking, how much was the pkg? I priced the bug-deflector, @$110.25, mud flap @$43 at local dealer. I really like to get Fender flares but ther are $212 for pair.
This is just a comment regarding selfinflating lumbar in both drivers and passenger seats. I've had the problem almost since day one. Has anyone else heard of this?
The site is for dealers only. Admission is no longer free. If you need details of a particular TSB, post it here or email me and I'll see if I can access the info.
I have been unable to find a 01 1500, z71, ext cab with a sliding rear window or dual exhaust. Are these even options anymore? Would I have to get these aftermarket? TIA!!!
I have an ARE cover, clamp-on rails, hinged in the front, color-matched-looks good, works good. I had one on a previous truck too for 6 years with no problems, even survived a hail storm!
Anybody replaced their front grill inserts with the aftermarket billet's? I'm curious if there is any difference in the brands and their quality, ease of installation/ amount of modification to grill, etc. If you could post pictures of your modified front grill that would be greatly appreciated!
Anyone knows where to buy inserts for my rear wheel wells 2001 2500HD crew 4x4. When i take it off road the inside of the rear bumper and other areas get fully embedded with mud/sand. I installed mud flaps but there is still a large gap for mud to fly everywhere under the bed!
JCWhitney sells them for the old body style. I have not found them for the new body style. The sport side (step side) trucks have them from the factory. I have been trying to find out if these will fit the fleet side truck. Anyone out the know?
tougher, if usually sprayed a bit thinner, and has a bit less "grip" because it's harder. It's also a high pressure, fast dry system which is less susceptible to runs and can get you out the door of the shop with a fully cured liner in a total of 2 hours or less. I finally made up my mind after reading a "comparo" in one of the 4X4 truck mags (4 Wheel and Off Road, I think) about a year ago. Rhino was a lot easier to gouge with screwdriver/shovel. It also didn't do well when they shot it with 00 buck, but they did admit that probably wasn't relevant. Either one is repairable if it gets damaged. For what it's worth, I'm extremely pleased with the Line-X after a year's worth of abuse, including a nasty hailstorm where it totally saved my bed rails, and personally wouldn't consider any other spray-in liner. -- Don
I have had a Line-X over-the rail liner in my 99 LT since June of 1999. Holds up extremely well. Seems to be very tough. Also the Line-X product is much harder than the Rhino. I would buy it again. My Opinion!
Have the Line-X in mine and so far its holding up well, but its under a Pace Edwards roll top cover so it SHOULD be holding up well. I'll agree with the speed of the install. Waited at the shop while they did mine and was out within two hours with a totally dry liner.
There are several good covers with snaps out there; Extang's one. But if you want to spend a few more bucks for something vinyl that really doesn't whip around in the wind and gives instant, complete access to the bed,take a look at the Access cover. -- Don
on my '92 Sportside and liked it real well. It ran just inder $300 installed. No holes to drill. After about a yr. I noticed the stiching on the top coming loose so I contacted the company. They sent me a new cover for $50 (supposedly cost). In '95 I had an accident and intended to get rid of the truck so I gave the cover to my Son-in-Law who used it a few more years. I did the swap from my truck to his and it was pretty simple.
guys for the info. I am looking into an Extang. Even if it last's a few years.. it will give me enough time to save up for the A.R.E. fiberglass tonneau.
Have you ever heard of having to take off the "whale tail" on the tailgate door to get these to fit properly. One of the guys in a local 4x4 shop told me I had to? Any thoughts?
Yes it will have to be removed but keep it in your basement w/the screws that fasten it to tailgate. The standard issue one for the Rado's/GMC will fit and is obtainable thru dealer. The aftermarkets work also but just watch the fit, my aftermarket is not the best and the 3m doublesided tape comes loose all the time, I attribute that to the damn threaded inserts that are installed in the tailgate for the screws of the whaletail, they hold it out away from the surface just enough to not get full pressure contact along length of tailgate..
which uses the holes on the inside of the tailgate to attach itself and covers the holes on the outside. Plust its made of stainless making it virtually indestructible.
Comments
You will have to butcher it to get it in. You can find more info here:
http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/messages/91465.html
Ken
Paintdude -- Good point. Factory specs optimize for factory spec ride height and consequent suspension geometry. All I can say is that I've had continued good luck working off the factory numbers. Don't know if the 2500 specs are the same as the 1500 or not on the "new" trucks.
cowboyjohn1 -- Agree. I wouldn't think of making any significant adjustments on a suspension system, independent especially, without checking it out with a really good shop afterwards.
-- Don
btw -- obyone: Bought the Hypertech for my 5.3 to correct tire size, remove the speed limiter, (effectively), and firm up the shifts. Was happy to find it also seemed to make a performance difference. Thought it might be my imagination, so switched back and forth a few times. Still there. Low rpm torque bump seems to be the biggest part of it and can get most of that effect on the 87 octane program. Live at 6000+ feet; maybe that's part of it -- could be a more efficient program for thin air.
Thanks,
Dave
Just wondering..
Allen-
Ken
Anyone know of a *good* unit that will fit in this opening, maybe from PIAA or similar?
Thnks
Whatever you do, DON'T put in bulbs higher than 38W, unless you like the smell of melting plastic!
""http://si2kgmd:gmd0702d@service.gm.com/si2000/home.html""
Several pages of the 2000 Service Manual ($125.00) have been compared to the online data.
They appear to be exactly the same..
remove the double quotes from the ends
-David
they make nice ones thinking of getting a black diamond plate but they are like $5-600
Only $49.99
Works great no drilling
Ryan
Pictures of all my accessories (i have a bunch)
Ryan
http://www.performanceproducts.com
They have quite a few selections, including the carpeted ones with logos
matthew
I've got a charcoal set of these Lloyd mats for my 2001 Silverado from Stylin Concepts magazine. They were cheaper there.
I really like them.
-David
Ed
http://pacific-audio.com/performance-discussion.html
there are a bunch of guys with 1500 Z71 lifts Pics also
Ryan
Never heard of a dual exhaust being a factory option
slider was but they had problems
Or does anyone have any experience with any other HARD lock toneau cover?
thanks.
-brian
Also, anyone know of a quality, inexpensive soft tonneau (preferrably snapless) or who has the best prices on covers?
Thanks
Did I just say listen to Ryan, scary!
-Eric
Ryan
I'm curious if there is any difference in the brands and their quality, ease of installation/ amount of modification to grill, etc.
If you could post pictures of your modified front grill that would be greatly appreciated!
-- Don
I'm looking at those spray in liners. Called Zeibart, got prices of 444 and 449 for under the rail Rhino Lining.
(Recap: 2001 GMC Sierra short bed)
There is only one Line-X dealer who is close to me. There are I think 6 in the 'area' but that area is a cruise!
Please list your thoughts again on Rhino vs. LineX and what's the true difference if any?
I want to get this before winter.
Thanks
Truckchic
line-x seems rougher. Doesnt look like cottage cheese
i have dealt with both (i have rhino and i have seen many trucks with line x at menards)
I think they are both very good. Cant go wrong with either really
No regrets with my rhino.
-- Don
JimDahl
Im looking for the vinyl/leather rail type. Preferably with snaps in the rail.
Thanks!
-- Don
Have you ever heard of having to take off the "whale tail" on the tailgate door to get these to fit properly. One of the guys in a local 4x4 shop told me I had to? Any thoughts?
Peter
I WOULDNT LET EM TAKE IT!
Ryan - I hear ya but I need the cover man!
Ray T.