2010 Forester bought yesterday-Check Engine Light Seriously?
I bought my first new car- a 2010 Forrester yesterday with all the bells and whistles I wanted. Happy as a clam.
Today I'm driving and the CHECK ENGINE light comes on, the Vehicle Dynamic Control symbol light comes on with a slash through it (I hadn't touched the button and when I mashed the button to see if I had turned it off accidentally and needed to turn it back on, nothing happened) and the CRUISE light is flashing.
Seriously? Please tell me this is not typical. Anyone else have this problem with a brand new one? I have driven used cars all my life- old used cars. I'm sick of going to the shop!
Today I'm driving and the CHECK ENGINE light comes on, the Vehicle Dynamic Control symbol light comes on with a slash through it (I hadn't touched the button and when I mashed the button to see if I had turned it off accidentally and needed to turn it back on, nothing happened) and the CRUISE light is flashing.
Seriously? Please tell me this is not typical. Anyone else have this problem with a brand new one? I have driven used cars all my life- old used cars. I'm sick of going to the shop!
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Remove / replace the gas cap ... should click a couple times when tight.
If that was the issue, it may take several start / stop cycles to "extinguish" the CEL.
Or if it's not a hassle ... go back to the dealer and have them pull the code.
If they can't fix it right away then I'd demand another Forester.
I'm sure it'll be a simple fix, and no, that is not typical at all for a brand new Subie.
I am going in to the service center tomorrow.
I am keen to find out if you figured out why these lights are coming..Is this a major problem?
We took it in and they adjusted something minor and it went away and hasn't returned.
A friend here at work just got a Fiesta and the trans blew up at 230 miles. She needs a new trans, too.
Bad luck. :sick:
The first time I took the car in to the dealer, I was told that the problem occurred because I must have put some 'bad gas' in and the electrical codes were reset so that the light came off.. (This is impossible because I only use premium gasoline)
..Three weeks later, the same thing happened, but since they could find nothing wrong with the vehicle, they simply reset the electrical codes again. After two weeks passed, the problem re-occurred. This time they found that a coolant line in the engine had busted and had to replace the line! Now, only a week later, I've had to take it in again! The problem now is that the alternator belt is in 'bad' condition (nearly busted) and they're not sure what is causing the belt to erode.
Like myself, my colleague is also experiencing similar problems with his 2010 Subaru Forrester and his alternator belt was busted one month ago. Prior to the lights coming on, we both experienced 'cold' start ups...
Does anyone have any idea as to what may be the root problem here.. My dealer seems to be as clueless as I am!!!
Octane should not be confused with bad gas. The naturally aspirated Forester is designed to run on 87 octane and receives no benefit from higher octane. Bad gas occurs when gas of any octane becomes contaminated with water.
Two years ago a Shell station repaid us $900 that we spent having bad gas removed from our fuel system. We were one of a dozen that they said they repaid. Their gas was bad due to water, not low octane.
Scary - in these temps my fuel lines would freeze up!
I would bring the car back to the dealer and have them check out the transmission. If the AT Temp light came on there may be an internal issue with the transmission.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
And worse. After being towed to the shop for barely running, our car had to have its gas tank removed for dewatering. We were showed a gallon milk jug half full of water, as just part of the water that was found in the tank. Fortunately it was in warm weather. In winter, there would have been a layer of ice in the bottom of the tank, maybe damaging the fuel pickup, pump and filter in there.
We recently clicked over 22,000 on our 2010 Forester and have yet to get a CEL. Ours has a manual transmission, but I don't know that it would make a difference... ?
Our 2009 is trouble-free, knock on wood.
Its being towed back to the dealer as we speak.
Could also be the lock-up on the torque converter; perhaps it is going from lock to unlock in rapid succession? Generally you'll notice the TC lock engaging at the end of acceleration, when you just get up to speed and after the car has shifted into drive. It is very subtle, but there is a final drop in RPM as it settles into cruising speed.
Just throwing out ideas....
2010 forester with automatic transmission
engine light on+dynamics control light on+blink cruise control light
send to dealer several times, they can't find any code related to this problem, recently it gets worse, one time when I stopped at red light, many lights are on and after turn green, the car just didn't move at all, so I have to restart the car to make it move.
Sube2010, how do you solve the problem finally?
The dealer seems to be clueless
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/Forester4EATTran- s.jpg
My Owners Manual contradicts that dealer's statement. It says:
"Though the fluid level can be checked
without warming up the fluid on the
“COLD” range, we recommend checking
the fluid level when the fluid is at operating
temperature.
! Checking the fluid level when the
fluid is hot
Check the fluid level monthly.
1. Drive the vehicle several miles to raise
the temperature of the transmission fluid
up to normal operating temperature..."
Your symptoms are not of low fluid, but something more serious. Maybe your Transmission Control Unit (the E in the 4EAT) has gone haywire.
Case # 1-2080411235
I recommed that anyone who has been having this sort of problem and can't get resolution call SOA at 800-782-2783, talk to a customer service rep, and file a complaint. If enough people complain, perhaps they'll realize that this is not a one of a kind problem.