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Subaru Impreza WRX
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Comments
-juice
Edumund's tests are usually a little more conservative than C&D's or other car magazines. The original estimate provided by SOA when the WRX was introduced was 6.2 seconds, IIRC.
Ken
The more hard-core the folks testing a car are, the lower the 0-60 times.
Krzys
So we have destination charge ($525) and licese and registration (think it's $240 or thereabouts in WA state...correct me if any of you know otherwise) No, havn't forgot about tax but are there any other fee(s) I should work into my final estimation? Thanks!
Nope, the only fees should be destination, title/registration/plates/other state fees, and tax. If they try to push any "documentation fees" or other nonsense, give 'em hell.
Is it just my area (Chicago) that's having a shortage of STi's? Haven't seen one on the road either yet. Where have you all seen them?
--sonya
I've been to a few dealers and every STi I have seen was already sold and not available for test drives. I wouldn't be surprised if no one for a long time to come is able to drive one without showing serious intent to buy.
I've spotted three STis during my regular commute to work here in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Ken
My guess is give it about six months to a year - SOA would have caught up on the demand and the "gotta have the first one" folks already have theirs.
Don
Anyone have any issues with their suspensions? I have an 03 sedan with 34k miles on it and now the rear shocks are squeaking and the whole car rides like there's nothing left in them..... is this common at this mileage?
Ryan
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So far, nothing. I've addressed the issue to dealers to see if there was an official fix and all of them came back with "Subaru knows about it and it's normal".
I've read about people swapping out the OE bushings with harder Whiteline ones. The folks who have done it claim it fixes the problem, but I'm not 100% sure. An independent mechanic that I spoke to looked at it and told me that the design of the bushing braces is to blame so harder bushings probably won't completely fix the problem. Unfortunately, it's not easy to swap out the bushings.
Ken
Just as a precaution, try adding a bottle of Dry Gas, then fill up the tank with a good premium fuel.
-juice
Has the memory steer gotten worse over time?
Boomer77...I had a 92 LS400 to which a nephew added 2 qts of water while playing 'fillup'...some mechanics wanted me to drain the gas tank (that model year doesn't have a drain plug nor does the tank drop down), It drove fine until the tank got low (beats me I thought water was heavier) at which point it started to stutter badly...I ran it dry like that (in my driveway/25 mins.) then filled up with gas and a bottle of dry gas for the next 6 tankfulls...never had problems.
No, I don't think it has. But then again, it really only happens after a U-turn. I don't do too many of those. ;-)
Ken
... I see you still have the yellow sticker under your bumper ;-)
-Dave
Just gave a soundcheck demo to a bunch of guys at work, they were loving it. VROOM VROOM! :-D
(er, oops.. that's Kartboy, not Kartman.. well they sure make some manly stuff though!)
--sonya
I'd love to add a little more rumble at idle, as long as it sounds OK and not too loud at WOT. I don't want to sound like a slammed Civic....
thanks,
Craig
Thanks.
Boomer - should be no problem with your car. Over time some water accumulates in the gas tank. That's why it's a good practice to always keep your tank full - less empty space - less condensation.
A stonger jerking motion can be caused by the boost controller trying to keep a setting but over/undershooting. Unless you want more power I wouldn't go to a reflash just to get rid of the jerking. Take it to your dealer or if you are the tinkering type...find your pcv valve...right next to it is a part of your boost control system. Small vacuum lines with a T... In one of those lines (this hose is only a few inches long) you will find a small metal ball with a small hole in it (pinch the vacuum lines and you'll find one with a hard ball inside), if it is plugged then your boost will be all over the place causing the jerkiness.
Of course there are tons of other things that can cause jerkiness...ignition etc.
It *really* sounds like that. Not harsh at all, it's not too loud, just VROOM. One of the guys at work actually said "it sounds like a V8!".
No welding required.. did it myself. :-) Install would be much easier if you do *not* have the diff. protector like I do.. one of the bolts is really hard to reach next to it. I guess I could have removed the diff. protector but that seemed like it would be an even bigger hassle. Between a 6" ratchet extension and some nimble finger work, I somehow managed to get the nut back on.. :-O The Kartboy hangers are really tight, so they were a bit of a pain to squeeze on too, but not too bad, fortunately the new muffler is lighter than the old one. Good thing I got em too, because there's maybe 1/8" max clearance between one of the bolts on the diff protector and the exhaust pipe, but these things hold TIGHT (plus they look swell ;-). Took me about 1.75 hours total, but I am a total noob. (PS, if you don't have 14mm sockets -- my set only goes up to 13 DOH! -- a 9/16" fits perfectly too..)
I am loving this thing.. Oh, time to drive home! :-D
Could the stock hangers be re-used? (I don't have a diffy protector).
Craig
Reason I say this is it took me about that much to get used to the car. It's a totally different animal and I've driven sticks for a while.
Took me a while to enjoy my tunes since I was always listening to the engine hum.
You can reuse the stock hangers if you are not concerned about excess movement. They will probably be much easier to reattach too (but they don't look as nice ;-)
akwrx: you might want to read up on the "grounding mod", it is purported to help out this kind of situation in a lot of cases -- search scoobymods.com or nasioc.com for more info.
What are the advantages of 7.5” vs. 7”, and vice versa? Would there be a noticeable difference in appearance? Someone mentioned to me that w/ 7.5” wheels I might experience some rubbing, but doesn’t the STi have 17"x7.5” wheels? The price is also a little steep, so I wanted to know what other less expensive wheels are comparable w/ the Prodrive P1s.
Any input would greatly be appreciated. Thank you.
-James B.
Not running the A/C. Good idea though.
Shift points are up there around 5 grand. The problem occurs when I am pushing her pretty hard so I am letting the revs climb between shifts.
Feels like the hesitation or jerkyness that you would expect from a cold car, but it happens at normal running temperature.
Thanks again for the help. I'll let you know if higher octane makes a difference.
-J Hall
Akwrx, it seems like a waste to buy a performance car that requires premium octane fuel, just to put low octane gas in it. I'm not sure exactly how much it reduces your power, but I have read many posts, where people have reset their ECU's (by draining the battery) to gain power back from a fill up of low octane or bad gas. If you just fill up with higher octane gas, it may take several tank-fulls for your engine to "relearn" everything.
Take care,
Paul
Not running the A/C. Good idea though.
Shift points are up there around 5 grand. The problem occurs when I am pushing her pretty hard so I am letting the revs climb between shifts.
Feels like the hesitation or jerkyness that you would expect from a cold car, but it happens at normal running temperature.
Thanks again for the help. I'll let you know if higher octane makes a difference.
-J Hall
The world-spec WRX (not those sold in North America) comes standard with a 215/45x17 tire mounted on a 17x7 rim.
My recommendation is to say with the 7.0 rim, if for no other reason, that's the way Subaru equips their 17"-equipped WRXs.
Bob
16x6.5 +55mm offset
17x7.0 +53mm offset
17x7.5 +48mm offset
I don't know any more about wheel width advantage(s) except to accommodate tire width.
-Dave
Got mine from subydude.com.
(Hmm, is that a good name for a band "Jerky Cold Clutch"?)
"Cold Clutch Jerkees"
either has a better ring ;-)
-Dave
Anyway, I just got a thingum from Subaru offering 6/60 for $583. Does anybody know if this is a good offer? I know this gets covered a lot, but I can't find the most current analysis/discussion.
I'm starting to think I should spring for the coverage because I piled a lot of miles on the car in the months after I got it so even if I only drive an average amount from here on, I'll run out my standard coverage pretty quickly.
DjB
It basically comes down to how much peace of mind is worth to you.
I have mechanical breakdown coverage thru GEICO and have used it in the past for wheel bearings and cooling system repairs on one of my Acuras.