Learned a couple surprising things talking to one of the Mobil guys the other day. . .
First, I've always believed in religious 3k mi. oil changes no matter what--but he said you can definitely go 6000 mi. no problem at all with Mobil 1 and still get all the benefits even with severe duty. That means instead of the Mobil 1 costing $90 for 4 changes a year, it's only $45 for 2 changes. When you do that you also save $10 by not having to buy two oil filters, plus you save $10 in gas over a year as compared with conventional oil. Subtract that $20 from the $45, means you are only paying $25 a year for using the synthetic versus $24 for the dino (at $1.20 qt.)--a $1 total difference! Unbelievable!! He also said they did a test for severest duty by starting a car, driving a half-mile, stopping, starting again, drive half-mile, stop--they did this every day for three years straight without ever changing the oil and found the engine still in good condition and the oil giving good protection!-- so really, the 10-12k changes Krzys is talking about in Europe are not going to hurt your car --and that would make the cost of using synthetic even less than conventional.
P.S. Mobil guy also said if your car has conventional dino when you buy it, just leave it in for 3k mi. then switch to synthetic--no need to switch right away. --RA
I used Mobil 1 in my 1990 Honda Accord from 6,000 to about 60,000 mi. Then @ 60K I switched to Castrol Syntec. I only changed the oil at 6-7K mi intervals since I was using synthetic. Now, at 135K and 12 years running without any kind of mechanical problem, the car doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes. Since I couldn't afford to buy a "control" Accord, we can't say whether the same would have happened w/conventonal oil, but I think it is safe to say that 6K intervals w/ synthetic don't hurt much.
I bought a silver one of these from this guy a few weeks ago, This is a VERY impressive model.
It even has mirrors in the side mirrors! There are a few minute differences but I haven't been able to find anything closer. The 1/43 scale works out to a tad under 4" long. Mine came in a clear plastic display case as well. You simply won't believe the detail on this!
Cinosweive--That's great to hear because, believe me, having changed every 3k all my life, it's going to be a little nerve-racking to go 6k the first time--just doesn't feel right, but I know now with the synthetic it really is OK.
Thing about switching to synthetic, it looks the same as conventional, pours the same--you really don't notice any difference in driving the car or the gas mileage (although slight gains really are there), so some guys must think you're just throwing money away at $4.50 a bottle. But you're going twice as long between changes and probably your engine will test out just fine after 150k mi. and ready to go another 100k--that's when you know you really did get your money's worth. --RA
I bought stuff from Warren around 1 1/2 years ago...he has a great selection...I have a collection of around 40 1/43rd scale cars..lots of Ferraris, Porsches, other assorted vehicles; most of them from endurance racing. I am looking to get hte 1/18th scale Autoart 2001 WRC from Monte Carlo...here is a pic
Synthetics are a must if you drive around in the snowbelt. At about -20F, regular oil starts becoming thick. Also, it takes forever for the oil to reach nominal temperature, so stays thick even as you're driving away. Can't be good for the engine. I've seen synthetic poured at a similar temperature and the difference is amazing...it flows much like it did at above freezing temperatures. Synthetics will protect your engine faster. In the winter, the cold temperatures are hard on the engine. Synthetics are a worthwhile investment for our high strung engines.
I use Synthetic Mobil1 in my Trooper and swear by it. I just don't feel it gives me any extra omph! I tried it in the XT6 but it's got 80K miles and it caused increased valve clatter. I may try it again after I get a new oil-pump on it.
This can get confusing. I did some checking to make sure my short shifter is covered since it was installed after delivery.
for Genuine Subaru Accessories:
If installed prior to vehicle delivery => covered by original factory warranty; see Page 4 of warranty booklet.
If installed after vehicle delivery => covered by 'accessory' warranty; see Page 29 of warranty booklet; essentially covers to end of factory warranty plus up to 1 year longer if purchased near the end of factory warranty.
The Subaru short shifter can be installed by the dealer and falls into the above category so it's covered one way or another.
Unfortunately, for Subaru "Performance" Parts:
Sold "as is" => no warranty; cannot be installed by dealer since not street legal; STI Performance Exhaust and the Suspension Performance Upgrade fall into this category.
Does anybody have the gauge package (turbo, volts, oil temp) that replaces the clock? Is it worth the $600 or so plus labor? I have never owned a turbo before and didn't know if boost or oil temp was even worth knowing.
my feeling is you don't really need the guage pack. For everyday driving you are just going to see the same readings day in and day out anyway. If you plan on flogging the car hard on the race track on weekends, then might be worth having.
Subaru offers a turbo boost guage for the steering column--not sure how much it is--that might be worth having, but again, not really necessary.
Personally, I prefer the simplicity of the instrument layout just the way it is--no extra distractions or clutter--and adds a little bit of mystique--passengers who don't realize the car is turbo-charged are sometimes a little enthralled at the neat whooshing of the engine. Just MHO--other guys might feel much differently. --RA
...we're getting away from debating whose "dipstick" is longer. :-) Just an empty beercup from the sidelines, thrown by somebody who knows no better. DjB
I don't like idiot lights in the least. Genearlly they let you know after a problem has occurred and there is no way to recover from it. My XT6 has Temp, Oil PSI, Volts, Fuel as the aux guagues and the Oil PSI and Volts have been very helpful in diagnosing problems on a 14year old car. Just something to think about down the road.
Unbelievable, 49 model Subies and not ONE Forester! Geez! I mean, c'mon, they outsell the Impreza 3 to 1! OK, 2 to 1 since the WRX arrived, but still. And the Forester competes in ice races (France) and pre-runs rallies for Subaru.
Great links about the oils, we really had a nice discussion going.
Octane and power: get what is recommended for your car. C&D did a test a few months back, and using premium on cars designed for 87 did nothing for them, one or two were actually slower and I think one was less efficient too.
But if you have a high compression or turbo engine, get premium, else the knock sensor will retard timing and cost you about 5 horsepower.
G35 starts at $27k? That's not a bad starting point, actually. Infinit actually equips them well, if the I35 is any indication. Let's see, I'd add:
For a total of $28,680. That's a bargain compared to a Camry or Altima, which easily reach that price with options.
The WRX will be quicker, but it's closer than you might think. An Altima hit 60 in 5.9s, compared to 5.4s for the WRX (C&D). And the G35 has 15 more horses than the Altima.
Also consider the G35 will have nicer interior materials and more features. It'll be a contender for the near-luxury class, for sure. Heck, I'll consider one for the wife if that price holds true.
REAR wheel drive, that's what makes it interesting. It's actually based on the Skyline, not too shabby at all.
My guess is on the upper end in terms of price, it'll be compared to the WRX by a lot of folks, because it's not FWD and it should offer solid performance.
It's true, at least the dealerships I talked to. They'll sell them and install them, but if they are the source for whatever problem you're suffering, the warranty will be voided. Basically they regurgitated the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.
I have always been a fan of gauges, paisan makes some good points about their ability to diagnose problems early. I have installed gauges on other vehicles in the past. It can be rather time consuming. If the list price of $638 for the three gauge pack included installation, it might not be too bad. The only thing bad is that they appear to be rather small for the location they are putting them. My WRX came with the steering column boost gauge, It is not real big either but I really like it. It lists for $520. So, the gauge pack for $638 is probably a better deal if you think you can see them well enough. If you have to pay to have them installed in addition to the price, you might consider aftermarket gauges. The turbo gauge is the pricy part of this combo, since there is much more involved with the installation.
Don't forget that to get 5.5 seconds 0 to 60 on the Subaru, you basically put the transmission at risk. Do that to many times and you'll need a new tranny in no time. You'll be able to hammer the Infinity all day long. Also, since this is the same engine as the 280 horsepower 350Z, I imagine increasing the horsepower should be fairly easy. I'm waiting till the fall when a G35 Coupe with a six speed will be available. I also want to wait to see developments with the EVO VII and the STI before I commit. Rear drive is a big improvement, but it's hard to beat the benefits of all wheel drive.
The price point is nice, but it may only be a theoretical price point so that it gets good writeups in magazines, unlike the VDC that gets hammered for it's expensive price. My guess is that once it's optioned up, that MSRP will be very different.
Don't forget a big RWD car will have poorer handling than a smaller more nimble one like the IS or the LS or the Catera.
I'm sure if you drop the clutch on the G35 enough time it'll fry, too. Still, that engine is a gem, even in the Altima, but in that car torque steer is awful. G35 won't have that problem.
I do hope Nissan can come up with a better shifter. The Altima's was way too notchy.
Well, we keep going back and forth. She does not want a van or a wagon, even though that's what I think we really need.
So, she wants a sporty sedan, with enough room for 2 kids. Image is important to her, but not me. Manual tranny a plus. Power a plus. AWD a plus, but RWD good and FWD acceptable (to her, not me).
Twisted criteria, I know. The Mazda 6 5 door hatch may sneak onto our list, if it's big enough. I would love a WRX but she's repeatedy told me it's just too small.
The funny thing is no, she likes SUVs. So Highlander and 2003 Forester are in.
She saw a Trooper and said she really liked it, but it seemed big and she was concerned about gas mileage on the beast. Still, you could argue that at $6k less than a Highlander the gas is free! :-)
More on the G35: 112" wheelbase, wow! No 6 speed at first, gotta wait. VDC standard, so a leather/moonroof model prices out at just under $30k, but the sport package mandates a goofy aero package so no thanks.
Juice and others: I understand the G-35 will go to AWD for 2004. Also, the 2003/2004 Maxima may well be AWD. I have heard this from several sources. This is not for sure-but IMHO it will happen.
makes sense. Isn't the GT-R AWD? I think Nissan can sell them so inexpensively because they are using alot of the parts in many cars. The G35 and the Z share a platform and I wouldn't be surprised if they shared some of their rear suspension with the altima.
You all checked out the base price on the 350Z? 26K.
And thanks Juice for the lead on the AutoWeek Rhys Millen Evo article. Man, that car was ugly.
I agree the Forester is a great all-rounder and really didn't get the recognition it deserved from the road mags when it came out in '98--really ahead of its time as the first SUV with sports-sedan manners and decent cornering ability. Don't know why there's no model of it anywhere. It's very popular here in Denver--and is the only vehicle ever to repeat as winner of the overall Best Car prize from the Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania--actually a very prestigious award in that part of the world. Those two years the RACT award for Best Sports Car Under $50k also went to--no kidding--the WRX. Just a little Subie trivia for fun.
Can't wait to see what the 2003 re-model looks like. Rumors are they may even have a turbo model. --RA
A tad short on power, plenty of style inside & out. Despite being higher on its toes than the Forestor, excellent handling also. And you can get a 5-speed manual.
Car & Driver did a comparo test recently where the Ford/Mazda twins got first (tie),RAV4 third, Forestor, 4th, ....
I wonder how those other mini-utes would do against the Forrester GT?
What do you get when you drop a WRX EJ20 turbocharged engine into a Forrester? Go to this great Aussie car website, to the bottom right, open a menu of video reviews (need RealPlayer) and check it out! Their other reviews are very good too. They're not as brand biased as the U.S. reviewers.
I'm a WRX owner and I was really impressed during the test drive. After 2000 miles, I'm really disappointed with the handling. I mostly log highway miles and my WRX does not have good stability at speed (70 - 80 mph). If there's any kind of wind, I'm all over the place. Lot's of understeer. I would basically call the car "unstable".
I'm looking to see if anyone else has experienced the same. If you have, did the dealer or Subaru have any cures?
"lots of understeer". Are you sure you know what that means? (Understeer implies you are exceeding the tire's grip and the car is not turning as much as you want it to...I'd be afraid for you if that was happening at 70mph)
I've not noticed any excessive instability at 70-80 mph. The tall stance of the car makes it more sensitive to crosswinds but I don't find it bad at all. I've driven a sedan (mine's the wagon) and same story.
I'd say have an alignment done because one of my previous cars felt twitchy and an alignment help a bit.
I've driven mine in some heavy wind and I'd agree that it did get blown around a bit more than I expected. I think that it seemed so drastic due to the contrast of it's stability when not in FIERCE wind. From your name rshasta I assume that you live near Mt. Shasta where there must be some serious wind. This sounds simplistic but, try rolling down windows during intense winds. If I lived where there was heavy winds I suppose I'd see it as more incentive to get suspension Mods. From my experience to call the car 'unstable' would not accurately describe the handling of the WRX.
Comments
First, I've always believed in religious 3k mi. oil changes no matter what--but he said you can definitely go 6000 mi. no problem at all with Mobil 1 and still get all the benefits even with severe duty. That means instead of the Mobil 1 costing $90 for 4 changes a year, it's only $45 for 2 changes. When you do that you also save $10 by not having to buy two oil filters, plus you save $10 in gas over a year as compared with conventional oil.
Subtract that $20 from the $45, means you are only paying $25 a year for using the synthetic versus $24 for the dino (at $1.20 qt.)--a $1 total difference! Unbelievable!!
He also said they did a test for severest duty by starting a car, driving a half-mile, stopping, starting again, drive half-mile, stop--they did this every day for three years straight without ever changing the oil and found the engine still in good condition and the oil giving good protection!-- so really, the 10-12k changes Krzys is talking about in Europe are not going to hurt your car --and that would make the cost of using synthetic even less than conventional.
P.S. Mobil guy also said if your car has conventional dino when you buy it, just leave it in for 3k mi. then switch to synthetic--no need to switch right away.
--RA
I bought a silver one of these from this guy a few weeks ago, This is a VERY impressive model.
It even has mirrors in the side mirrors! There are a few minute differences but I haven't been able to find anything closer. The 1/43 scale works out to a tad under 4" long. Mine came in a clear plastic display case as well. You simply won't believe the detail on this!
Thing about switching to synthetic, it looks the same as conventional, pours the same--you really don't notice any difference in driving the car or the gas mileage (although slight gains really are there), so some guys must think you're just throwing money away at $4.50 a bottle. But you're going twice as long between changes and probably your engine will test out just fine after 150k mi. and ready to go another 100k--that's when you know you really did get your money's worth.
--RA
-mike
--RA
-mike
(preferably with heated seats
They have lots to choose from here.... Everything but the kitchen sink!
http://www.model-car.com/miniature_detail.asp?nr=MOC002
Enjoy!
for Genuine Subaru Accessories:
If installed prior to vehicle delivery => covered by original factory warranty; see Page 4 of warranty booklet.
If installed after vehicle delivery => covered by 'accessory' warranty; see Page 29 of warranty booklet; essentially covers to end of factory warranty plus up to 1 year longer if purchased near the end of factory warranty.
The Subaru short shifter can be installed by the dealer and falls into the above category so it's covered one way or another.
Unfortunately, for Subaru "Performance" Parts:
Sold "as is" => no warranty; cannot be installed by dealer since not street legal; STI Performance Exhaust and the Suspension Performance Upgrade fall into this category.
Good link: (scroll down to post by moderator GW)
http://www.iclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=491d043458c871a43161b6de96728467&threadid=132984
If you plan on flogging the car hard on the race track on weekends, then might be worth having.
Subaru offers a turbo boost guage for the steering column--not sure how much it is--that might be worth having, but again, not really necessary.
Personally, I prefer the simplicity of the instrument layout just the way it is--no extra distractions or clutter--and adds a little bit of mystique--passengers who don't realize the car is turbo-charged are sometimes a little enthralled at the neat whooshing of the engine. Just MHO--other guys might feel much differently.
--RA
:-) Just an empty beercup from the sidelines, thrown by somebody who knows no better.
DjB
-mike
Great links about the oils, we really had a nice discussion going.
Octane and power: get what is recommended for your car. C&D did a test a few months back, and using premium on cars designed for 87 did nothing for them, one or two were actually slower and I think one was less efficient too.
But if you have a high compression or turbo engine, get premium, else the knock sensor will retard timing and cost you about 5 horsepower.
G35 starts at $27k? That's not a bad starting point, actually. Infinit actually equips them well, if the I35 is any indication. Let's see, I'd add:
6 CD, $460
heated seats, $420
traction control, $300
HIDs, $500
For a total of $28,680. That's a bargain compared to a Camry or Altima, which easily reach that price with options.
The WRX will be quicker, but it's closer than you might think. An Altima hit 60 in 5.9s, compared to 5.4s for the WRX (C&D). And the G35 has 15 more horses than the Altima.
Also consider the G35 will have nicer interior materials and more features. It'll be a contender for the near-luxury class, for sure. Heck, I'll consider one for the wife if that price holds true.
-juice
-mike
My guess is on the upper end in terms of price, it'll be compared to the WRX by a lot of folks, because it's not FWD and it should offer solid performance.
-juice
-mike
I drove one at Edmunds Live and really liked it, but the WRX is roomier and I'd pick the Subie, no contest, when price is factored in.
But the G35 is roomier and cheaper, if those prices hold up. I dunno, though, Altimas MSRP for $29k loaded, so how can Infiniti do it?
-juice
Don't forget a big RWD car will have poorer handling than a smaller more nimble one like the IS or the LS or the Catera.
-mike
I do hope Nissan can come up with a better shifter. The Altima's was way too notchy.
-juice
-juice
-mike
So, she wants a sporty sedan, with enough room for 2 kids. Image is important to her, but not me. Manual tranny a plus. Power a plus. AWD a plus, but RWD good and FWD acceptable (to her, not me).
Twisted criteria, I know. The Mazda 6 5 door hatch may sneak onto our list, if it's big enough. I would love a WRX but she's repeatedy told me it's just too small.
-juice
-mike
She saw a Trooper and said she really liked it, but it seemed big and she was concerned about gas mileage on the beast. Still, you could argue that at $6k less than a Highlander the gas is free! :-)
More on the G35: 112" wheelbase, wow! No 6 speed at first, gotta wait. VDC standard, so a leather/moonroof model prices out at just under $30k, but the sport package mandates a goofy aero package so no thanks.
-juice
I should let her drive mine for a week, I'd never get it back!
The G35 does look nice, but with the impala SS aka Holden SS coming within a year or 2 that class will get pretty heated (RWD, large sedans)
-mike
-juice
Jim
You all checked out the base price on the 350Z? 26K.
And thanks Juice for the lead on the AutoWeek Rhys Millen Evo article. Man, that car was ugly.
Have been looking for a realistic road rally game for the PC--anyone know of a good one that has the '02 WRX?
It's very popular here in Denver--and is the only vehicle ever to repeat as winner of the overall Best Car prize from the Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania--actually a very prestigious award in that part of the world. Those two years the RACT award for Best Sports Car Under $50k also went to--no kidding--the WRX. Just a little Subie trivia for fun.
Can't wait to see what the 2003 re-model looks like. Rumors are they may even have a turbo model.
--RA
Car & Driver did a comparo test recently where the Ford/Mazda twins got first (tie),RAV4 third, Forestor, 4th, ....
so a quick search on www.caranddriver.com
What do you get when you drop a WRX EJ20 turbocharged engine into a Forrester? Go to this great Aussie car website, to the bottom right, open a menu of video reviews (need RealPlayer) and check it out! Their other reviews are very good too. They're not as brand biased as the U.S. reviewers.
http://www.drive.com.au/news/video/index.html
Man, we never get the good stuff here! :-{
I'm looking to see if anyone else has experienced the same. If you have, did the dealer or Subaru have any cures?
-mike
I've not noticed any excessive instability at 70-80 mph. The tall stance of the car makes it more sensitive to crosswinds but I don't find it bad at all. I've driven a sedan (mine's the wagon) and same story.
I'd say have an alignment done because one of my previous cars felt twitchy and an alignment help a bit.
http://ewa1.com/
http://www.mailordercentral.com/replicarz/default.asp