Chrysler 300M

edschatz

I just bought a 300M that has the navigation/sirius unit
The owners guide tells me how to get to the ESN that I need for the Sirius activation. It does not work!
Can you tell me how it is done?

tayl0rd

Sweet! Navteq now has Chrysler
update discs on its website!

naatz1

This is mainly to the leader of these forums, what has happened recently? I still check these 300M forums weekly even though my 04 M is almost 3 years old, but due to some format or rules changes contributions seem to have slowed to a crawl the past couple months. Can we undo the read only status on the "Problems/solutions" forum and get this general 300M forum to open up again? Or are we supposed to open some type of "blog" and talk & ask questions that way?

Maybe I am dreaming and this slow down is just because this model is out of production for almost 3 years but these forums seem to have really died off from multiple entries each week to nothing for almost a month. I suspect there are other owners of fairly new Ms out there who will make use of this data as their cars age and they need some repair advice in the next few years.

Still a happy newer 300M owner in SE MN

Karen_S

Hi naatz. Yes, we have gone to a slightly different format and it has caused some confusion. Basically the P&S topic has been closed and we are asking that you post in the more specific discussions for various 300M issues. You can view all of the group discussions here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.eea42d0.

If you click on "track this group", you will be subscribed to all of the 300M discussions. You can choose to have an email sent to you whenever a new message is added and/or simply click on "Read New Posts" when you log in again.

Hope that helps!

stu7

I was told that both rear door actuators on my 2001 300M shorted out and have to be replaced. I really don't want to pay the dealer rate. Does any one have information on where I can purchase replacements and have installation instructions? (This includes taking off and putting back on the rear door panels.)

Thanks

Stu7

hoos

I got the sad news the week before Christmas that my 2000 300M needs a rebuild of the Torque Converter and some serious adjustments to the automatic transmission. Total cost between $2,400 and $3,000.

It has been a great car for the 7 years I have driven it, and I have loved every one of the 105,000 miles, but the economics are against putting that much into repairs.

You can all be sure I will be envious when I see you drive by in your M's.

naatz1

Did you try some local mechanics or transmission shops (not the nationwide shops) or perhaps a rebuilt or used transmission unit? I suspect a 300M tranny is pretty sophisticated, but when my daughter's 94 Chevy's went out 4 years ago, our local auto recycled (OK, junk) yard popped in a used tranny with 6 mon warranty for $400 parts and labor. The tranny was still working 2 years later when we sold the car. Even if you spent $1200 on a 300M you still have that beauty to behold, but of course I don't know what other little quirks you may be having.

I had 2 cars go south around 108K miles, so I know that is frustrating when you hope to get around 150K or so. One was an early Dodge Caravan minivan where both the head gasket and valves went at once basically requiring $1500 worth of repairs on a vehicle worth $3K at best. The other was just 2 years ago, a kid car 95 Pontiac worth $2K needing a $1K+ valve job and 2 mechanics telling me it wasn't worth it. I was lucky and got money out of both cars but owning both with a lot of TLC since they were new really bugged me. Luckily most of my other vehicles including my 2004 300M have had better fates, at least so far. I am contemplating with only 1 warranty problem in 31 months if I need the extended warranty beyond the 7/70 on my M, but of course none of those run past 100K miles anyway.

tayl0rd

For that kind of money, just buy a new transmission and save a ton of money on the labor charges. Or for the price they're charging for the rebuild, I'd send the torque convertor to a reputable performance parts company and have them build me a high performance unit. And while the transmission was apart, I'd have them install some stronger, more heavy duty gears.

hoos

Thanks for the advice...I am still looking at the alternatives.

kylito

My 2000 300M was sitting outside during a recent cold snap and i got into the car and the door panel close to the window cracked with about 3 hairline cracks. The steering wheel is flaking so bad right now some places I am almost to the metal. Does anyone know if there are any TSB's on these items? My car is off waranty and I am wondering if Chrysler will do anything about these problems.

naatz1

This can probably be called my second problem on my 2004 300M, now 34 months and 33,600 miles old. I noticed a few weeks ago during startup in the garage a "ticking" sound when the car was started on a cold morning, it appeared to go away when I arrived at work 15 minutes later and the car was totally warmed up (this is in Minnesota in January, cars take a while to warm up). No codes or anything obvious, the car ran fine and got good gas mileage.

Anyway, during a scheduled oil change I mentioned it to the dealer yesterday and he ran some combustion chamber cleaner through the system which at least temporarily quieted it down. The service tech cautioned me if I hear it again in the next few hundred miles or couple weeks to bring it in as they have concerns on the valves/lifters. So I am hopefully it's fixed (stay tuned to this forum if it's not), but it's a wakeup call that even simple noises not causing anything obvious with the engine starting, power or computer codes is worth bringing in. There are so many times they can't either find it or dismiss a problem (eg, the infamous CHECK ENGINE light due to a loose gas cap) but other seemingly minor things can be a real problem.

tgivens66

I'm new to the 300M club as I just bought a 99 model loaded extra clean 78k miles brakes are a little spongy would like to know is there anything I should look and listen for. I have a little car knowledge was wondering how difficult is it to change the pads on the M?

naatz1

I will let another forum expert answer this one, my reason: when I was in high school I had a cousin almost killed after changing their own brakes (that was front drum brakes back in the 70s) and the first time used on the road one stuck forcing a 60mph head on collision. So I swore then I would never do a brake job and never have despite doing a fair amount of other easy stuff (oil, antifreeze, filters, plugs depending on location) for decades. I don't want to scare you off and am sure if you do a bunch of "drive slow around the block" that would minimize the risk. I have watched many disc pad replacements and it looks easy, my current backyard garage mechanic also always replaces (vs turns) rotors since it's only $10-20 more per rotor.

Beyond that if others have advice they can comment. There are good online sites with brake replacement diagrams, even popularmechanics.com has that. Good luck.

illini4

If you've changed pads on other cars, the M will be no problem.

naatz1

Here is an update to my Jan 20 note. The ticking did not go away and upon diagnosis from an overnight drop and real cold MN (-6) start, the dealer tracked it to a 300M 3.5L problem fixed by TSB 09-002-04. This had to do with the exhaust valve tappets, the repair order reads: Remove exhaust rockers and replace swivel pads and retainers. It was about a 6 hour job, not trivial. Luckily I am in my last 6 weeks of full 36 warranty, but based on the rule "if oil or coolant touch it on the engine it's covered by 7yr/70Kmi" it would probably be covered on that standard engine warranty as well with $100 deductible.

This did not seem to be a major problem as the dealer told me 2 weeks ago it was ok to drive, but it was not an easy fix with just combustion chamber cleaner as I posted beforer. I did a search on this TSB number on this forum but no hits, so perhaps it's just now showing up or only on the 04s? Other than a cam sensor, it's the only problem I have had in almost 3 years ... still a satisfied customer, debating if I need at least the basic (steering,brakes,electrical) added extended warranty.

umichjenks

My 99 300M is getting pretty rough in terms of the ride. How much of a change did you feel when you replaced the struts? How much did it all cost to change them?

bliedtke

Hey Gang, I need your help/advice. 2001 300M 85,000 miles. Trans fluid changed at 76,000 miles. Car drives and shifts fine by my butt-o-meter! However, Service engine soon light came on with code 0700 (tranny fault). Reset. drove 5 miles and back it came. Dealer diagnosed as bad (slipping) torque converter. Tech noted "slippage in 4th gear- 3rd gear OK". Wants $1600 to replace. I did my search and saw another forum member stated his failed at 98,000 miles and changed for $600 at dealer. WTF? #1 should I trust the diagnosis since car feels fine and has never failed to go in gear or feel like slippage? #2 How much should TC cost? Big difference between 600 & 1600. Anyone else had it done and could it be a sensor rather than the TC. My car has easy highway miles. Thanks for any advise I can get. Bill

mrmusic4ads

i would get it fixed. I have a 2002 -300m - TC went on my and blew the entire transmission. 110000Kms on it. I'm fighting Chrysler on this one. :sick:

02owner

Have not been able to post much recently, but my 2002 300M topped 73,000 miles today and I'm still very happy with it. Only occasional glitch is with the Check Engine light, which has come on a couple of times but for no reason. My Chrysler dealer (which has been terrific through the years) keeps checking on it. I'd like to see the car last to twice the present mileage, and from the looks of things that may be possible. I'm impressed with the durability described by so many posters. The car has also held good resale value. I wish they had kept on making them.

rancin98

Hi, I have a 2000 M, and it is my pride and joy! But, my sunroof almost flew out on the fwy, the passenger side clip/mounting piece broke. I really don't want to replace the whole unit, cost, time, and leak chance, etc. Anyone have this problem and found an easy fix? BTW, I have 105,000 miles and still kicks a** Thanks.

zxpoppy

Hi,

I am looking for a used chrysler 300M in the market. Here is one:

Year: 2002 CHRYSLER 300M sedan Mileage: ~ 97000 miles
Exterior Color: Tan Interior Color: Tan
Body Style: Sedan Doors: Four Door
Engine: 6 Cylinder Transmission: Automatic
Drive Type: 2 wheel drive Stereo: Premium Sound System
Fuel Type: Gasoline

Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Driver Air Bag, Leather Seats Passenger Air Bag, Power Door Locks , Power Steering
Power Windows , Sunroof/Moonroof , Tilt Wheel

The carfex report is clean (a rental car for its first year and a leasing car later).

My question is:

Do you think it is a deal or not?
Do you think the mileage is too high or not?
Will such milage cause some severe troubles?
Should I have to change some important parts (timing belt, for example) at this milage if I buy it?

Thanks

illini4

Can't tell if it's a deal without the price. Regardless, a rental then a lease? Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.

rider62

I have a 1999 300m and it has been an exceptional vehicle, but now it has been over heating since the days are hotter.
I added radiator flush and after a days downtime I will began to drain.
FYI, I notice that the last filler of coolant used prestone dex-cool and the antifreeze appeared to have broken down and slugging.
I'll keep u posted on the results.

lightning1

Hey everyone, I'm brand new to this board. I have a 2000 M with 76,000 miles. It drives great and I love racing it against other people. I was wondering if anyone knew how I could get some extra horses (other than a Turbo charger and Nitrous) or if someone could give me the link to a site that would help. Thx in advance .

vernon1

Hey Big Mike
I have a 2000 300M and the left driver's side door speaker is "rattling" so how did you replace yours? Do you have to take the door apart or just pop off the speaker screen and replace it that way? Hopefully it is not difficult and I will replace both door speakers. Where did you get the replacement ones? Thanks

tkaz

When there is a strong lightning/thunder storm, the 4-way flashers may turn on on my 99 LHS. This has happened 3 times with the result the battery is drained. When it has happened the 4-way light switch has popped up. Is this indicitive of a bad switch or is there something else, such as the alarm system turning on the 4-way flasher switch? My dealer thinks I am nuts. Maybe?

tayl0rd

Only happens during a lightning/thunder storm? I think you have an evil spirit messing with you. :surprise: Or there's some kind of divine intervention going on trying to tell you something about your car.

bertoski

I have a 2000 300m, there is a short somewhere. When I turn my flashers on, they blow the fuse. This started happening about 6-7 months ago. Also when it's humid and raining, when I try to start the car, it won't start plus all the lights in the car flash. I tried looking for a cause of the short, but did not find anything.

rider62

Haven't had that problem but it could be your alarm sensor for the flashers. Try and get your OBCD (COMPUTER) checked and see if gives any diagnostic codes. Good luck!

cebteb

The driver's door on our '99 300M is showing its age in that the small plastic hand grip cup in the door arm is cracking all over. The edges easily pull away from the door arm and their is a single screw in the bottom of the "cup". So I go to a Chrysler Dealer's parts shop and inquire about a replacement. They tell me the plastic cup cannot be replaced as a single item and that to replace it I would need to buy a whole new door panel. This is after they did a search on their parts computer.

It sounds insane! Anyone replaced one of these plastic hand grip cups in a 300M? Note that there are 4 of these cups in the 300M, one in each door arm.

tayl0rd

I believe there was a TSB issued for those hand grips a few years ago. I do believe just the cup can be replaced. I think your dealer is trying to sell you a bill of goods.

beatles67

Had the most amazing service and treatment from a dealer I have ever experienced. Craig Hind in Toronto solved a brake issue that nobody else was able to. They spent 8 hours diagnosing and I was not charged for it. It came down to 2 parts which I was able to get from a wrecker, the brake booster and HCU unit. The HCU was $897 new and I got it for $75. They had no issues installing these parts and when I left my car I told them to only install the HCU as we'd started to run low on funds. When I went to pick the car up Kevin the manager took me aside and said he'd installed the brake booster for free. We were treated with respect and as if our business really meant a lot to them. For people in Toronto I cannot recommend them highly enough.

bigmike5

Vernon - Sorry to be so slow in answering, I haven't been here in quite a while. You probably solved the problem by now. But, if not, I had the dealer do the speakers although I was told the speaker covers could be popped off real easy to get at the speakers. I just wasn't comfortable trying it and figured I'd break or puncture something if I tried it. I changed them both out even tho only one had a problem and got the one good one back to keep as a spare.

mikec8

Anyone know where the sensor is or a web site where I can get pictures. 3.5L engine. I have a book, but it only shows detail for a 2.7L--no help. Also, I don't like dealing with local Chrysler place. Can anyone recommend a good source to buy the sensor? Thanks...Mike

hayneldan

crankshaft position sensor is located in the front of the engine in the timing belt housing cover above the left camshaft sprocket. If you have a shop manual the picture is shown on page 8D-9 fig 23.

rider62

I have a 1999 300m 3.5L and I was told that 3 of 6 ignition coils are bad. I was quoted a price of $685.00 to replace all or them, this included cleaning the throttle body.Does any one know where I can purchase these coils at a reasonalble price.

tayl0rd

Try ebaY.

quietflyer

I had one coil on my '99 300M go bad a while ago and I was able to buy one at Auto-Zone for around $40.00. I don't know why cleaning the throttle body would be included in the estimate you got if the coils were bad. I have 153,400 miles on my car now.

rider62

Thanks, I'll start there and try geeting an electrical test done while I am there.

mikec8

300M, 3.5L (2001). Replaced crank sensor but same stalling problem. Maybe a better description would help all you troubleshooters out there. Would appreciate advice on next try...
1. Never stalls around town, only after driving awhile at highway speeds, then only as I come to a stop.
2. As I slow to a stop, I notice the tach bouncing up and down around idle point, but just goes a little lower each time until engine dies.
3. Cranks right up.
4. Never stalls while at steady speeds.
5. Once I get back into town and drive at slower speeds for awhile, problem goes away.
6. Plenty of pep, good acceleration in town and on highway.

Any guesses what I might try next?

jonathan_216

The other night I started the car and it acted like it was not firing on all cylinders. So I turned it off and restarted it. Did the same thing. Decided to drive and it stopped acting like it was going to die. Has anyone had this kind of issue before? I have a 1999 300m 155,000 on her, She's never done it before and I did not get any lights to come on and it did not throw any codes ran a diagnostic on her the next day. Any tips or suggestions to maybe find out or correct the problem would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cadence

i know its a while ago since this post but sure like to find out more about this body seam tear. might have the same problem here in my 2002 and water on drivers side floor under carpeting, lots of it.

cadence

Sounds like the fuel injectors are dirty. Try a can of Techron or other good injector cleaner before your next fill. After it gets into the fuel system and cleans out the dirty injector(s), the car will run almost like new again. i've cured this problem for years on various cars from a Corvette to an Intrepid. Sometimes the inj. cleaner will make the ENGINE LIGHT come on but thats only until the stuff has burned thru the tank. Also you can burn some premium gas occasionally too, seems to work just about as good as injector cleaners.

rider62

02 owner (fuzzywuzzy)
Water on driver's side door.
Yea, this seem to be common when it rains or during a heavy car wash, so look at the trim on the driver's side at the top of the door and the front windshield glass, it should be black in color and about 1/2 inch, this area has been the usual leaky point. Pull on it just a little bit to see if it is loosen or weaken from the adhesive. It easily snaps up so you may want to get some adhesive or RTV to try and plug the void.
After you add the RTV or which ever your chose, monitor it during the rain or wash.
Hopefully this works for you.

rider62(lb)

car_nut2

Hello Everyone,

I used to be active on this board years ago, but quit as it grew less active. Just would like to check in to report that my '99 is still running very strong at 140K, and looks great. The candy apple red paint has held up very well, and so have my chromed razorstars, which look like new when polished. People don't believe that the car is 8 years old! I plan to keep it quite a while yet, since it just keeps running like the energizer bunny. I have had to replace suspension components (front struts, sway bars, etc.) a couple of times, possibly because I have a bad habit of zooming over speed bumps. Took it to a 5 star (which I seldom do) last year and they fixed the light show that was starting to occur with the interior lights, and also stopped the fuel gauge from chiming and bopping up and down (they cleaned the electrical contacts).

A previous post was inquiring the best route to go for a tranny; I was wondering the same thing, thinking mine can't last too much longer, although it seems fine. Think I will try the local junkyard which I know offers a warranty. I'm also surprised that the exhaust system has never needed a new pipe or muffler. I know it's made of stainless steel but I never had one last so long before; very nice! If anyone has any advice on what problems might occur w/my high mileage car I'd appreciate it. Normally I would be rid of a car by now. Happy 'M Cruising!

Blue Sky

devo1313

When I purchased my used 300, there was a dried liquid on the back side of the plastic that separates me from the gauges in my dash...I tried unscrewing the screws directly above the gauges, but can't get plastic to pop out. Is there something I am missing or an easier way to get to this part?

blacklab1936

Hello,
I have just recently purchased a 300M. I would like to know if the controls on the steering wheel (Cruse control, set, coast etc.) are supposed to light up at night? Also, whether the heater control knob is supposed to light up?
Thanks for any assistance!

blacklab1936

Hello,
I have just recently purchased a 2004 300M. I would like to know if the controls on the steering wheel (Cruse control, set, coast etc.) are supposed to light up at night? Also, whether the heater control (Fan) knob is supposed to light up?
Thanks for any assistance!

jonathan_216

The cruise control lights do not light up. The fan knob should. bulb is probably bad.

blacklab1936

Thank you!