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Comments
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1501794&a=11408326
Finally got my Zaino applied. Second coat tomorrow! Zaino tire gloss works well, too.
Regards, Silver
Anyway, my wheels are a disgusting mess. They are also very hard to clean with just a wet towel. I don't want to scrub them with anything that might scratch. Any suggestions on products or an easier way to clean them? I don't see anything on the Zaino web site. Also, my chrome exhaust tube-things-that-stick-out-of-the-back-of-the-car are stained (rust?). How come?!
Thanks,
Tandee
http://www.properautocare.com/br-42.html
you should be able to get one at your local auto parts store.
i use eagle one A2Z wheel cleaner...
1.Wash wheels regularly using a brush like racefan9 suggested and a name brand "all finish" wheel cleaner.
2. Wax the wheels with a good auto wax.
3. Use Rain-X "wheel protectant."
Now you know why I got the standard wheels on my '01!
See my post #251
AJPIII - Thanks for the pics!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1280646&a=9486000
AC vents-My guess as to the reason that it stays on defrost/floor a lot of the time is because most people don't like air blowing in their face. The fan ALWAYS blows when the unit in in ATC (although very lightly sometimes) mode so it reverts to that setting to circulate the air instead of blowing it in your face. It also helps maintain a more constant cabin temp, helping to eliminate cold or hot spots.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but water is a product of combustion. If your gasoline was pure octane (C8H18) and you had perfect combustion, you'd only get CO2 and H2O out your exhaust. That's carbon dioxide and water. But we all know gasoline isn't pure octane and combustion isn't perfect. But you still get a lot of CO2 and H2O. That's why the water vapor comes out of the exhaust forever on a cold day (or any day, for that matter!).
And, Race, quit besmirching my good name. I never took anybody's lunch. You never know when you're going to get a bologna sandwich. No. I took people's lunch MONEY. Sheesh.
Igor
The problem is that the car, particularly with PAP, flexes when going over bad roads as we have in the Northeast. It is worse in the cold as the plastic becomes brittle. The dash, in particular flexes far more than it should.
What fixed mine was to go to the hardware store and get a 15 feet of 1.5 in wide adhesive velcro strips and some 1/2 inch thick foam.
To fix the dash, remove the center cover over the radio, the glove box, drivers side knee pad, snap on end (side) pieces, plastic wood trim, and plastic around the instruments/headlight switch. Apply velcro to every contact point, particularly the perimeter and metal snaps which hold the center plate in. If done carefully, everything will still come apart fine if needed in the future, and be completely invisible.
Also be sure that the radio, DC changer, and ACT panel have velcro where they meet as they flex. Lastly, before buttoning everything back up, be sure that radio, ACT panel, and DC changer are aligned properly in relation to the cover. My radio needed adjustment.
Door panels require removing all screws and putting velcro behind the lower side and bottom contact points. Be careful not to overtighten the bottom screws or the panels will crack.
Ditto for the B and C pillars, pull the rubber from around the doors and velcro the contact points.
While the door rubber is off, put 1/2 inch foam around the headliner contact points as needed, you can hear where it "itches" by pushing on the headliner.
Lastly, open the sunroof 1st in tilt and then fully open and put wet silicone everywhere on the rubber around the glass. Repeat every three months or so.
The entire process above took about 4 hours and cost $20. It solved 98% of my problem.
I doubt most dealers would do all of the above, it is better to do it at home if one is mechanically inclined. Of course, none of this should be necessary in a car in this price class. Enough said.
Good luck with it.
Erik V.
T
Can you make a logo that looks like the one on the trunk instead of black line art? There's a picture in the 2001 brochure on page 4. I would like it shiny and metallic looking.
If it turns out well, anyone who wants a new one, just ask.
So far I have 3,000 miles on the '01 also with no rattles. Guess it's just the luck of the draw!
Thanks!
Russ-I have thought long and hard about a 5 tire rotation, and I am getting ready to go to Pirellis for my main tires. I have come to the conclusion that I am not going to rotate the spare, but instead use it only as a spare. I don't think one tire would make that much of a difference. Two would, but I think rotating one is more trouble than it is worth. I'm buying 4 Pirelli's and leaving the new GY on the spare. I only plan on using it for emergencies anyway, and the GY should play well with the Pirelli's for that purpose. If you rotate it, you have one brand new tire on the car with 3 worn ones, and it would never be worn to the same level that the others are. I'd say don't worry about it and leave that GY on! Just my thoughts.
By the way:
the 3 things I like most about my M are: looks, roominess, and performance (especially handling)
the 3 things I like least are: it needs more rearward travel for the driver's seat (and I'm not that tall), and I can't think of anything else I don't like.
Lynn
Regards, Silver
Igor
I'm on my 2nd 300M following 2 Taurus SHOs ('94 V-6 and '96 V-8. The 300M would stay with both of them, while offering far more luxury, comfort and handling prowess. I have had none of the problems you describe, and have been given a no-charge loaner on the few occasions the car was in for service for more than an hour. My 300M experience now encompasses 72,000 trouble-free miles over 31 months in both a '99 and '01 300M.
While I believe there is no such thing as too much power, I think the 300M power level is more than adequate. Name one other car that even comes close to the 300M in size, power handling and features at a price within $10,000. Can you?
I'd say go for the 5 tire rotation. I have, and haven't regretted it. At the end of their useful life, I'll keep the best one of the lot and use it for the spare, then buy 4 new tires. After all, I don't expect to have to use the spare (can't recall the last time I had a flat), but if I do, it doesn't have to be brand new. It just has to work until I can get the tire repaired/replaced.
The pattern I used was:
LeftRear->RightFront,
RightRear->LeftFront,
RightFront->RightRear,
LeftFront->Spare,
Spare->LeftRear
Continued to track straight and true after the rotation.
Nine months old, just passed 14K. No rattles or squeaks - and I drive on some plenty bad roads and have the PHP. Knock on (fake) wood.
In my case, I was offered the option of free loaner car for life, plus a bunch of free oil changes and discounts on maintenance -or- get an extra $300 off the price of the car. I figured after taking the free oil changes into account, I'd only need a couple trips to the dealer to compensate for whatever charges I'd occur getting a loaner car.
I chose the free loaner car. Not every dealer gives loaner cars, but for me it was a plus and one of many reasons why I chose to buy from this particular dealer.
Best of luck with getting your fixed to your satisfaction. Owning a car with a lot of problems, especially a new car, is a major bummer.
Adamczak, the cord to the heater is connected to the behind the radiator with clips. the service manual did not go into a lot of detail.
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Beach15-My dealer doesn't give loaners, Howerver the one time I needed one, they paid for a rental.
Rattles- I have a few, but not much of a problem for me.
And the 300M weighs more like 3500lbs
If you prefer not to do that, maybe someone can tell me how to post the diagram here. I have it as a jpeg file.