Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2009 Chevrolet Aveo

Does anyone know how to change/replace the spark plugs on a 2009 Chevy Aveo LS Sedan, manual front wheel drive?

Problem I am having is trying to figure out how to remove or take the black plastic "Ecotec" cover off of the the top of the engine so I can get to the spark plugs below this cover. Anyone with advice, knowledge or experience doing this please reply.
«1

Comments

  • 5/11/09

    I don't want to pollute the board here with garbage but I wanted to share my wonderful experience I've had with my new car. I bought an 09 Aveo - brand new with 13 miles on it - in September of last year. I had wore out my first ever car which was a 96 Pontiac Sunfire that was bright red with red interior dash and red seats. I loved that car but it was time for a new one. That Sunfire had been great to me and I just had to do routine maintenance on it for the 12 years I had it.

    So, being so used to not having a car payment, I go for a new inexpensive car with supposedly good gas mileage in the Chevy Aveo. Price was right at $12,500 fully loaded after my other cars were factored in the trade. Ever since I got it the car has not got over 23 mpg - city or highway. They told me I was probably just a bit hard on it but even to its dying day I could still get over 30 mpg city on my old Sunfire. I have just accepted the fact that it doesn't get the gas mileage I thought and that's disappointing for such a small car.

    Anyway, about a month ago driving to the golf course going down the interstate my friend looked over and said holy crap I think your car blew up. I had no idea what he was talking about and he pointed to the speedometer which was sitting on the big zero. It took a second to register with me but I said well the car is running fine and then it shot up to 120 and then to 70 - the speed I was actually running. I thought, "well that's pretty weird. Better have it checked out." I set up an appointment and the car kept doing it over the next couple of days before I got it into the dealership where I bought the car. They worked on it for 3 hours and told me that the battery was a little low and it just wasn't sending enough volts to make the speedometer work right.

    Ok, that wasn't so bad. Well, the next day it starts doing it again. So, I call the service department and take it back in. They run a sweep test on the car and it failed it immediately. So they keep my car for 3 days and put a brand new gauge cluster in the car. They said that the gauge was bad and that's what was causing the problem. Ok, no big deal. I get the car back at 5:00 on Friday afternoon right as they closed. I got about halfway home and the stinking car done it again. I go back in there bring and early Monday morning and they are shocked to see me. I tell them that its still doing it and I want them to fix it. They put me in a rental car that Chevy is paying for and say they will have to do some extensive testing on it.

    This was 2 weeks ago today when it went back in. Friday of the first week the service guy calls me and says that all the tests are pointing to the ECM of the car being torn up causing the speedometer to go haywire. Oh, did I mention the OnStar is out too? I discovered that about the same time this other thing started happening and they are supposedly putting a new OnStar system in it too. Anyway, he said that he had ordered the new computer and it should be in Friday and my car should be ready last Monday. Tuesday rolls around and I still haven't heard anything so I call back. The guy said well now Chevy is saying they want us to run more tests that they aren't sure its the ECM. Staying patient with them I said fine lets get it fixed.

    Friday rolls around last week and the service manager calls me back and says well we have ran all of these tests and it still points to the ECM. He said he ordered another one Wednesday and Chevy called him Thursday and said they weren't going to send it. He said instead they are insisting on replacing the gauge cluster again that they think its torn up. Still calm because I know its not his fault personally I said what in the heck is going on? I said I had the new gauge 5 minutes before it tore up now c'mon its not the gauge. He said he can only do what Chevy tells him to do that his hands are tied. He said he agreed with me. But then the absolute biggest KICKER of all is that he said the gauge cluster was on back order and he didn't expect to get one until AT LEAST late this week. I said great so I am paying for a car I'm not even driving. I said then the frigging gauge will tear up again and then you will have to run these tests again and then we will be right back where we started 2 weeks ago. He said I am about dead sure its the ECM and its not the gauge but I have to replace it again right now and now that part is on back order.

    So, I go in there Friday afternoon to talk to a manager since that's where I got my car. I was very nice to him and he was cordial back to my wife and I. He said he understood our frustrations and was going to call Chevy himself and try to get something done quicker. All I want is them to do something about this. I've had that car in there now 3 times for the same thing and they can't get it fixed. Now Chevy won't even send the ECM to fix it even though that is what the service department keeps ordering for my car.

    Thee service manager told me that he honestly thought they won't replace that ECM until its the very last resort because it costs them so much to replace it. I said well its costing them $120 a day on this Enterprise car rental that I've had a couple of weeks now.

    Just frustrated beyond belief at this point. I never expected a brand new car with less than 5,000 miles to have so many problems so soon. I hope I haven't got a lemon for life. To anyone that read this entire novel pat yourself on the back. Sorry it was so long.

    5/13/09

    I've talked to the finance manager again today. He said he's 99.9% sure that GM has agreed after "review" of my car problems to go ahead and change out the ECM. (Find out later they agreed to replace it because the 2nd replacement gauge cluster came in and it was bad as well)

    5/20/09

    Update!

    I call yesterday to see where they were with it. The service manager says good news and bad news......

    He said the good news was that they got the new ECM and got it installed yesterday in the car.

    Then he turns around and tells me the bad news. After they "booted" the ECM up after installing it the ECM proceeded to wipe itself clean out. I said well what are you going to do about that then? He said honestly I'm at a complete loss. I've never seen anything like this. We can't program your car no matter what we try to do the ECM just keeps wiping itself clean. So now that's twice my car has done things they have never seen before. He said that it had just happened 30 minutes ago and they were all trying to figure out what in the world is going on. So I said well I'll get back in touch tomorrow.

    I think I'm going to go back up there and ask for my two old cars back. I know 8 months removed they are probably looooooong gone by now. But I'm going to say then replace it with something comparable - pay this piece of crap off - and we'll be done. Now that my wife has a new car for herself I don't have to have a new one anyway. And quite fran
  • And quite frankly I don't WANT anything to do with an Aveo. I've never dealt with a situation quite like this so I don't know how I'm going to go about doing it but I've honestly had way past enough of this crap. Just give me something that would replace the two I traded in 8 months ago, pay this one off, and we'll call it even. I won't go shouting on the highest mountaintops about how God awful this whole ordeal has been and will still have something to drive. Oh, and I would request a used Nissan or Honda. That Honda I traded in along with my 96 Sunfire were both superior cars to this one. The 93 Honda had 250,000 miles on it and ran like a dream. I should have known better I should have known better!

    Went back today to talk to the service manager. He says he's been on the phone with lead engineers at GM. Apparently there are 4 other cars (all 09 Aveo's like mine) that are having the same problem across America. He is saying that GM is saying that there is a major problem with the coding. So he's telling me the ECM is not bad rather the computer code is so messed up that it won't read it correctly. He said have you ever heard of bricking a cell phone or something? I said sure you mess something up and its as good as a brick. He said well your car is a brick right now - it can't be programmed. And there are 4 other cars across the US that can't be programmed either. But he assures me that the lead GM engineers are on this problem because he thinks that this could be a widespread problem on 09 Aveo's and others just aren't having the symptoms yet. So GM is working, as he said, quadruple time to get the programming fixed in this car because alot more of them could start coming back for the same problem. And as of right now they don't have a solution to the problem.

    I think that GM should just give me a new car. If Aveo's are having that big of a problem give me a Cobalt for the same price and call it a fair trade. I can't imagine how you could have such a fatal programming error in such a car. Its blowing my mind really. The service guy said he would call me back tomorrow because he says GM is now well aware of a problem since its happening to several other cars at the same time so they are trying to fix it ASAP. What it does now is once you try to do a reprogram it bricks your entire car. He said they can't even get my car to fire anymore that they just roll it around.

    Its almost becoming comical.........almost.

    End of rant but just thought I'd share this for amusement purposes.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I think the dealer should give you a new car not GM. The dealer has the power to make that decision and they should.
  • peaches14peaches14 Posts: 1
    they have to replace the car.go to http://www.lemonlawamerica.com/ check the lemon law in your state
  • mslaffmslaff Posts: 3
    Good luck with the lemon law. With the car being that new, you might succeed. Our situation is different, with a "lemon" 2007 Aveo LT sedan that is close to worthless (see separate post). Car doesn't fit that law because of age, and is still under warranty.

    Buying an inexpensive, but poor quality vehicle such as the Aveo is not a great idea. I dread seeing what I get for this thing when I go to sell at the end of the warranty period in the fall. GM customer service, thus far, has not inspired me to continue my LONG relationship with that company in the future.
  • :confuse: I'm really sorry to hear your bad experiences with GM and your dealership regarding your 2009 AVEO. Has this issue been resolved? Have GM replaced your car with another new Aveo? I have a 2007 Aveo LT-RS Sedan. I purchased the car new in April 2007 and have had an excellent time with my car. So far I have 44,000km on the AVEO and nothing has gone wrong. Nothing! I had a 2003 Toyota Yaris before this car that had 7 minor issues with trim, door locks. But my AVEO has been perfect. It is a five speed manual transmission car and I average 39 imperial miles per gallon which is about 45 miles per US gallon and that is mixed city/hwy driving.

    I've read reports of poor gas mileage and suspect these Aveo's are automatics with the a/c running full blast all the time. I've also read reports of electrical issues for 2007-09, but my car has been perfect.
  • Wow! Is this where I am headed? I have one of those few 09 Aveo’s that only gives 20-22 mpg, I have nearly 2,000 mile on it. The garage keep assuring me that it is giving me 27-32 mpg on their run. Surprise, the last miles are down hill. They say the computer is OK. Tires pressured correct, oxygen sensors ok, etc. They implied that I might be riding the brake. After driving for 65 years, they should know how to drive. If anyone knows an answer to this problem, please help. Others I talk to get up to 40 mpg. I am afraid the car GM call a GREEN CAR is more YELLOW as in LEMON.
  • Downndirtytn, I just read your post. I was having similar problems with my 2009 Aveo (had it 6 months, has 14,000 miles). The gauges would go on and off randomly, following no apparent pattern (except SOMETIMES they would work while coasting, then go off when giving gas). Anyway, I brought the car into the shop this morning and just got a phone call and was told "Your battery seems to be a bit low and we think that was causing the problem". Looks as if though I am on the same path as you.

    They are going to look into it further and get back to me.

    How did it turn out for you in the end?
  • I fought with GM and fought with them over this. FINALLY, in the end, this is what happened.........

    I made GM repurchase the vehicle. They wanted to do a repurchase/replacement but I didn't want anything to do with it. See, in their grand wisdom, GM makes you pay FULL MSRP for the price of the new car you are getting. Since you can readily get cars anywhere from $1,000-$2,500 under MSRP any day of the week I wouldn't do it.

    In the end we worked out a deal where I paid HALF price usage on the car. The usage fees they charge are 27.5 cents/mile. I got him to cut that in half. That made me go from owing them $1,800 worth of usage to $900. Then, they factored in how much I had paid and took some other crap off of it and we wound up getting a check for $250 or something in the end. Yes, we technically paid them $900 usage but after they ran the numbers and subtracted some other things on the original deal it came out in our favor.

    I would go the route I went if I were anyone else having these problems. You have to fuss, cuss, fight, and get down to their level but you CAN talk them into something like this if you stick with it. They tried fixing my car many times though and never could get it fixed so I did have that working for me. However, by law, all they had to do was replace the Aveo with another Aveo. And even then they were going to charge me FULL PRICE on the replacement Aveo so with the Aveo prices going up I would have had a higher car payment and more financed.

    I am done with GM/Chevy. Once we got that out from under us we went and got a 2009 Nissan Sentra with the Sports Package. It was $20,000 sticker at the dealership but we got the $2,500 rebate, he lowered the price a little more than that, and we took a dealer car with 1,000 miles and walked out of there with a brand new Sentra financed for under $16,000 and a lower payment than on the Aveo. Oh, and this car is hundreds of times nicer, more comfy, much better looking, and gets 34-38 MPG.

    Get out of the Aveo if you can - I still don't think they have figured out how to fix the issue I - and now looks like you - are having.
  • I'm also having problems with my 2009 Aveo Hatchback. The battery keeps going dead if it isn't driven for say, a week or less. I, unfortunately had an accident at 280 miles, but it was all cosmetic damage, so something there may be the cause. After the first time it went dead, I recharged the battery, two days later it was down to a 40% charge. The next day down to 35% and later on in the same day down to 30%. Eventually it went completely dead. I disconnected the battery and recharged it. After two days the battery was still at 100% charge. The dealer that did the body work is also a Chevy dealer (but not where I bought it), so I just took it to them since either way, they have to fix it or give me a different one.

    Interestingly, they have had a 2009 Aveo 4dr sedan in there for a month with the same problem. They have been good about it and I hope to "expedite" the repair by asking for a loaner car. Hopefully, that cost to them will speed things up.

    It's a shame, I really like the car (less than 1K since 7/24). I was getting 28.5 in town. Guess we'll have to see what transpires. Keep you all posted.
  • bvh3bvh3 Posts: 5
    I have a lot of wind noise while driving 55-70 mph into a 20-30 mph wind. It is a high pitched wind noise and the dealer acts like they have never heard of the problem before. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this car or what can be done to eliminate this noise?? Is anyone else having this problem??
  • bvh3bvh3 Posts: 5
    While driving between 55-70 mph into a 20-30 mph wind, I get a high pitch squeal or wind noise and it seems to be coming from either side on the front part of the front doors. Anyone had this problem or know how to solve the problem?? The dealer acts like they have never heard of the problem before. By the way, I am getting between 31-34 miles/gal. depending on how much city driving is involved.
  • i've read on other post it's our radio antenna???????? :mad:
  • bvh3bvh3 Posts: 5
    I was wondering about the radio antenna--have you heard of any solution for it??
  • The noise can also come from the front wheel if it is facing the wind. I have the same issue with my 2006.

    Ron
  • bvh3bvh3 Posts: 5
    I didn't suspect the front wheels, Ron. Thanks for letting me know--have you found any solutions?
  • It is a design issue. I have had several small cars do this. They make these cars with strict tolerances so they act like a person blowing into a glass bottle. That is whats happening with your front wheels. Big tires, small gap, lots of wind....make a noise. I guess the only fix is buy a car with bad aerodynamics : )

    Ron
  • I was having the same issue with wind noise on my 2008 Suzuki Swift+. The dealer tried a few things and the noise was still there. I ended up calling a company called Leakpro http://www.leakpro.com/ and they fixed my wind noise issue with just one visit. They adjusted the passenger side door by bending the top part where the window slides in, inward. Re-gluing the weatherstrip on the passengers side door and adding a piece of two sided tape to the very top of the passengers side door weatherstripping. Supposedly Leakpro had dealt with another Chev Aveo with the exact problem a few weeks before.
  • When we first got our Aveo we had wind noise. We found that the back windows were creeping down. Our dog liked to step on the buttons. Norm116 Norm116
  • I am still trying to find out why some Aveo's get high 30's mpg and a number only get 18-21mpg? Granted an automatic may give a few miles less that a stick shift, but only 20 mpg on open highway driving? That is unacceptable for an advertised Green Car
  • I have the same car and it seems like it happens when wind blowing from the driver side. the noise seems to come from front passenger side wheel area
  • I just today picked up my '07 Aveo LS. I drive about 45 miles to work (mainly highway). It was rather windy and I noticed a whistling like noise that would come and go and was not too loud. I was worried it was something mechanical at first, but I soon realized it was wind related. Hopefully we can get some at-home fixes.
  • I get 40-46 driving interstate 65-70 mph consistently. Never got below 33 mpg, so I would say driving in town or city would be 33-37 mpg range. On average in city and highway combined I get 39 mpg on a tank of gas. In Missouri, so not sure if climate has effect on this or the grade of roads. My Aveo is LS 4 door with manual transmission and is 2009.
  • Anyone here come up with any good fixes for the wind noise squeal/howl along the front windshield yet?

    I have just been having the same problems for year now, it comes and it goes. Dealer has been very good trying to fix it, but partial success so far. Took to dealer now 3 times, First they have taken off the plastic trim piece under the windshield wiper arms now 2 times and put a stick adhesive tape on back side of it to hold it in place against windshield or stop any wind flow under it.

    After doing this the first time at dealership, it did improve the noise, it stopped the squeal from coming on the driver side of the front windshield. But still at speeds over 60-65 mph, or in a cross wind blowing 20-30 mph, or when meeting a large semi truck and the air flow it pushed across the Aveo causes the squeal.

    Took back second time and took plastic piece off again and they tore off old adhesive tape stick and tried a new different kind and that made another big improvement. BUT still now the squeal or wind noise is very loud and annoying, comes on passenger side right where the front windshield and the passenger side door frame meet just above the front car hood, I can even put my hand on the inside or passenger side door frame and feel it vibrate with noise inside that area, somehow air is getting in through the car and thus making a loud wind noise or high pitched squeal.

    3rd time I took it by the dealer, I had noticed upon inspection myself that on the driver side when you open the door, look straight ahead between the front wheel well/side fender and the frame of the car there is a hollow spot that is stuffed with a black foam piece from top to bottom. I noticed on the passenger side, there is no black foam piece at all, it is just empty space and you can see the inside between the side fender well and the frame of engine. Well I thought I had discovered the solution and problem to take and show the dealer. So I show dealer autobody guys, the think it is good idea also, so we then head inside to their parts dept man and he looks it up on computer and shows us that it is normal and how Aveo is built, for some reason the do not include that foam fill piece on passenger side. SO I get the sorry we will not be able to put a piece in there for you and if you want you can go to hardware store, buy your own and put piece of foam in yourself and let us know if it fixes it.
    I had just replaced the bad Kumho original tires, about 2-3 days earlier before taking it to the dealer, and the wind noise had stopped. Naturally the day I take dealer in test drive with it the noise never happens at all! Thus Dealer thinks it was the old tires I replaced. I personally have never heard of such a thing nor seen that or experienced that and I do not buy it at all, no way a tire makes or causes a squeal in the frame of car near front windshield and passenger door. This lasted about 2 weeks or so and the noise came back again!

    Once again when I drive Interstate at 65 mph or higher, drive into the wind or in a cross wind or when I meet a large semi the noise starts again. I am going to try putting some duct tape over areas of the windshield trim or door windshield trim to see if this stops the wind squeal noise and also in the passenger door where the missing foam piece should be, I hope to locate where the air/wind is getting in to cause the noise then I will determine what to use to plug up the gap or hole or spot leaking that air. Sucks.

    I was hoping if anyone else has figured out anything or had any success at what to do to stop or fix this noise. Please reply.
  • Yes it't a nightmare, trying to get any help on my mpg problem. Can't expect to do anything during winter driving. Mu 2009 Aveo5 is only giving 18 mpg. The company Executive officer says he would refer it to their engineers. Customer service says they can't deal with mechanical problems and assured me that my local service department is equipped to handle my problem, My local garage says all is OK by company specifications. Sure looks like a "Toyota Type Runaround". There must be a reason why most Aveos get over 30 mpg and some give 20 mpg. Any suggestions or help will be appreciated. Norm 116
  • There is probably nothing wrong with your car. It's more likely the type of driving you do that is giving you poor fuel mileage. Is it automatic or manual? Are you doing highway driving or city driving?

    I have an '09 Aveo5 with automatic. It is used for city driving exclusively as a commuter car, with no highway driving at all. Currently we are getting about 22 mpg. This is disappointing relative to the EPA estimates, which were originally stated to be 27 city, and were then revised downward to 25. Unless the EPA figures are rigged (which they may well be, considering that the US government now owns GM) we can't blame Chevy specifically for the EPA estimates that were inflated.

    It is winter, and with ethanol blend gas and sub-freezing temps the mileage is disappointing but not surprising under these conditions. Some trips we make are that of only going one mile, with a stop sign on almost every corner of the route - the car barely warms up, and under those conditions a car consumes about twice as much fuel as it would otherwise. These cars seem to get good mileage when they are running mostly in high gear. Unfortunately, in anything short of that, they seem to be gas thirsty in the lower gears.
  • 2009aveo2009aveo Posts: 2
    This is an update to post #10 of 16 ~2009 AVEO 5dr by 2009aveo. It turned out to be an OnStar problem. Evidently, it "phones home" daily. But mine wasn't "hanging up". They replaced the unit (under the drivers seat). This also controls the air bags. Now, due to other electrical systems always pulling current, the battery charge goes down approximately 5% daily. After approximately a week, the battery shows a 70% charge. It has not went dead since then. I guess with the electronics in cars today we just have to put up with it. Most cars also get driven more often than mine (since I'm retired). Obviously, compared to a '57 Ford, cars today are light years ahead and generally more reliable. That '57 Ford would have been either rusted out badly or have had major mechanical problems at 100K. Today it is not uncommon for cars to go 200K+.
  • I have a 2009 Aveo LS sedan, four door with AC. It is a 1.6 liter four cylinder with manual transmission. I get 42-46 driving 65-70 mph on Interstate or highway. Checked it several times. I also never got lower than 33 mpg on a tank of gas driving in or out of city. I noticed when I drive in city a lot I usually get around 33-35 mpg range. Typicaly on a tank of gas I get 38-40 mpg driving both city and highway and going normal speeds.
  • I finally called GMAC 800 number for service/warranty and complained about the horrible wind/air noise around front windshield. Got a hold of a district specialist, this took about week for her to call me back, then only able to call and leave a message or talk in late afternoon to her. ANYWAY, finally set up appointment with dealer to work on the windshield air noise that is so horrible and lound around front windshield and door pillars on passenger and driver sides. When going over 60-65 mph it is bad. Been doing it a year now since bought it. Had to go through GMAC warranty 800 line since dealer told me they could not do anymore work on it unless it was run through warranty program otherwise would have to charge for labor and work on it, thus reason I contacted GMAC warranty section. Then back to dealership, they found the howling screeching ear shattering air/wind noise and were able to fix it immediately I was told, supposed to be something to do with the rubber black door strips that go around each door of car, they adjusted or replaced with new improved or better fitting rubber door seals and it stopped. I have tested it now for week driving as much as 100 mph or more in strong winds this week and no more wind/air noise around windshield, THANK GOODNESS. Anyway very quiet ride now with speeds over 60 mph. Thank you dealership for helping me out on this and fixing it!
  • celliccellic Posts: 4
    I just want to say that I sympathize with you. You could look elsewhere on this forum for my post on my 2005 Aveo, and you can see how much I hate this car. I have actually spent the morning Krazy Glueing my fuel cap cover together as I had to rip it off to get gas when it was stuck closed. After being quite proud of myself for managing to McGyver it back together and then reinstalling it to the car, it turns out the locking mechanism for it is not working and the cover is locked shut again. I had to pry it off again and now it is held closed by velcro. What a crappy crappy car. I hate it.
  • croushcroush Posts: 1
    Had the same problem on our '07 Aveo5; out of warranty, didn't want to pay GM arm and leg to look at it.

    I dropped by my local O'Reilly (Auto Parts), and grabbed a $10 roll of universal weatherstrip (not the crummy gray foam stuff, but the black rubber tubing type). Applied to the inside of the door jamb at top, and the noise is all gone. Notice the factory stripping goes all the way round the door frame; my addition is just along the top (attempting to link image):

    image
    YMMV, but this worked like a charm for me. There are a couple of inches of space without weatherstripping from the factory, and it seems like wind whips over that cavity to create this noise. Could be something else, but this fixed our ungodly howling.

    Good luck,

    Chris
  • MY EXPERIENCE WITH OUR 2009 CHEVROLET AVEO LT SEDAN STARTED ABOUT 3 MONTHS AFTER WE BOUGHT IT. IT WAS PURCHASED USED AND HAD 36,000 MILES ON IT; SO WE FIGURED IT WAS A RENTAL OR PROGRAM CAR. WE PURCHASED AN EXTENTED WARRANTY (HOPING THAT WOULD HELP.) WHILE DRIVING ONE DAY; ON MY WAY DOWN THE ROAD JUST BEFORE A MAJOR INTERSECTION LIGHT; HAD TO STOP IN LONG LINE OF TRAFFIC. THE FIRST THING THAT HAPPENED WAS WHEN I SLIGHTLY LET OFF THE BRAKE TO MOVE FORWARD, THE CAR LUNGED. I HIT THE BRAKE AND THE RPM STARTED DROPPING AND THEN JUMPING; THE CAR STARTED SPUTTERING; SO I LET OFF THE BRAKE AND IT LUNGED AGAIN. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I PUSHED ON THE ACCELERATOR AND IT WAS IF THE ENGINE WAS NOT GETTING GAS. I PUSHED THE PEDDLE TO THE FLOOR AND AFTER A SECOND IT STARTED GOING SOMWHAT NORMAL AGAIN. I PULLED INTO A GROCERY STORE PARKING LOT; AND IT WAS VERY SHAKY OR SPUTTERING; I PUSHED ON THE ACCELERATOR AND IT WAS IF THE ENGINE WAS NOT GETTING GAS AGAIN. PULLED INTO PARKING SPOT AND ONCE AGAIN THE RPM STARTED DROPPING AND THE CAR SHUT OFF ON ITS OWN. SINCE THEN ON A REGULAR BASIS THE VEHICLE WILL LOSE POWER TO THE ENGINE. STEPPING ON THE GAS PEDAL DOES NOTHING. THE CAR WILL LURCHE AND DECELERATED QUICKLY. POWER WILL SUDDENLY RESTORE TO ENGINE CAUSING THE CAR TO SEEM NORNAL, BUT THEN THE ENGINE WILL LOSE POWER AGAIN. NO WARNING LIGHTS HAVE EVER COME ON. THE CAR HAS BEEN TAKEN TO 3 DEALERSHIPS; AND AN INDEPENDENT GARAGE WHO DID HAVE THE PROBLEM HAPPEN, BUT THE OTC GENISIS COUD NOT IDENTIFY WHAT WAS HAPPINING, JUST RECORD THE EVENT. NONE OF THE CHEVROLET DEALERS COULD GET IT TO DUPLICATE OR FIND AYNTHING WRONG; WHILE IN THERE POSETION. THE PROBLEM HAS CONTINUED INTERMITTENTLY FOR ALMOST 6 MONTHS. I HAVE BEEN TAKING VIDEOS WITH MY HTC DROID WHEN THE CAR IS HAVING ITS PROBLEM; IT SITS ON THE STEERING COLUMN AND SHOW THE RPM SPIKES AND DROPS. THE SUDDEN DECELERATION AND “NO RESPONSE WHEN THE GAS PEDDLE IS PUSHED; HAS OCCURRED AT ALL SPEEDS, INCLUDING ON THE FREEWAY. IT WILL “ACT UP” (SO I’VE CALLED IT) FOR A WHILE, AND THEN CAME BACK TO DRIVE NORMALLY AFTER SEVERAL MINUTES. THE PROBLEM HAPPENS SOMETIMES WITHIN THE FIRST TEN MINUTES OTHER TIMES IT HAS HAPPENED TWICE IN THE SAME DAY AFTER THE CAR SAT FOR 8 HOURS. THEN THE PROBLEM HAS GONE FOR PERIODS AS LONG AS TWO WEEKS AND NOTHING OCCURRED BUT THEN COMES BACK. THE MOST EXTREME OCCURRENCES HAVE BEEN ON SIDE STREETS WHERE TRAFFIC WAS NOT A PROBLEM, BUT IF ANOTHER CAR HAD BEEN FOLLOWING CLOSELY A REAR-END COLLISION WOULD HAVE BEEN CERTAIN. WE HAVE SPENT OVER $600 ON VARIOUS SO CALLED FIXES; INCLUDING FUEL SYSTEM CLEAN (INCLUDING THROTTLE BODY CLEANING) NO HELP. WAS TOLD BAD O2 SENSOR (BUT NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.. EVER) O2 SENSORS CAUSE CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. MY WIFE REFUSES TO DRIVE IT. WE THINK IT MY BE THE ENTIRE ECU COMPUTER; BUT NO DEALER WANTS TO ADMIT THAT. MAYBE DUE TO THE COST?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,101
    I think your message is more likely to be seen in our Chevy Aveo Engine Problems discussion. I think it's also more likely to be read all the way through if you post without using ALL CAPS. It's very difficult to read messages in ALL CAPS, and sometimes people won't bother. If you click on my link, you can post in the existing discussion.

    MODERATOR

    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Ok, Thanks. I will do that.
  • I happened to read your Aveo problem by chance this morning and feel like I should respond. My 2004 Aveo was having very much the same problem yours is. I bought it used with about 45,000miles on it. Soon after I bought it, it started jumping, lurching, and loosing power every time I came to a stop light. I hate to take the car to any con-man shop because they just take your $. My wife suggested the transmission was slipping. I took her suggestion and did the easiest thing first, drained the transmission fluid and put in LUCAS semi-synthetic multi-vehicle automatic transmission fluid. I bought it at AutoZone. I noticed improvement after the first change but not completely better, so I changed it again( got all the old fluid out of there). The problem is now completely gone, and am glad I listened to my wife!Anyway I thought if this my help you without spending a ton of money.
  • Well after several phone calls to local dealers and getting run around, finally called GM customer service line and surprisingly one of their reps was able to get a dealer or someone to tell her how to take off the black plastic cover on top of engine.

    A) when facing the engine, look down at the black plastic cover on top of the engine, underneath that cover is the coil, and then below the coil bridge is the 4 spark plugs.

    B) See the white letters ECOTEC, at the right hand side of this center black plastic piece is a ARROW sign ingrained in the top of the black plastic pointing to your right. THUS you need to slide this black plastic center piece to your right, it will only move about 1/4 of an inch to the right or so at most.

    C) then put your fingers underneath the portion of the black plastic piece(ECOTEC) that is now slid out to the right and sticking out about a 1/4 of inch; now pull or lift straight up with your fingers underneath that black center piece. It is snug but do not worry you will not break it, it should pop straight up for you. Now you can see the coil bridge on top of the engine.

    D) Then on the right hand side of the bridge coil there is a electric type plug that goes into the right hand side of the bridge coil, you need to unplug it from the bridge coil. You will need a 40 Torx bit to unscrew the two screws that are holding the coil bridge in place over the spark plugs.

    E) Then once you unscrew those two screws, you just lift the coil straight up or pull straight up.

    D) Then looking down inside the top of the engine you will see the 4 spark plugs. You will need a 5/8 spark plug socket to unscrew the spark plugs.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    ecotec2009,
    I am happy that you finally found the information you were looking for. If you have any other questions, comments or concerns please feel free to email me directly.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • anne70anne70 Posts: 1
    Has anyone had this problem of losing power while driving normally. Sometimes on a side street or the freeway, we just lose power . Any ideas cuz the dealership can't seem to duplicate it. There's only 14000 miles on it and we're the only owner(so far)
  • gmc84gmc84 Posts: 1
    I took it in to the dealership and they replaced the trim around the doors. Seems to be quiet now.
  • I purchased my Aveo5 on December 22, 2009 with 21 miles on it. Within 48 hours, I had it at the local dealership because it needed a new fuel pump, new wipers, and the window stuck.

    Since then, the following has needed repair or replacement (and I have 43,000 miles on it):
    all 4 tires
    brakes
    front and passenger side window engines
    hatchback door will open selectively (but mostly will not open unless you hit the "sweet spot")
    car won't start the first time
    silver key part fell into the drivers door (while in dealership's possession)
    turning the key in the passenger door only locks the door
    second key doesn't work, need to call onstar to get into my car
    tire balancing every oil change
    alignment
    air vent
    wiper blades x 3
    mold on ceiling

    I've lost count of the times I've called GM and been to the local dealership (Ed Morse Chevrolet). I've had independent mechanics look at my car and give me diagnoses which the dealership said none of the above was wrong with my car, but lo and behold AFTER my warranty was over, all of it was broken and needed repair.

    The dealership told me it would be $250 to LOOK AT MY WINDOWS. Not fix them but to examine my windows. I told them I didn't care about the windows as the car didn't start (and they were able to replicate it).

    To date, this has been THE WORST CAR I HAVE EVER PURCHASED and have since dubbed it "the black lemon". State of Florida and Better Business Bureau have said Ed Morse has so many complaints it's not worth it to file another one and they are not BBB accredited.

    GM calls and says "we can't find a supervisor" so I will eventually unload this piece of crap on someone else, but in the meantime CANNOT see why Edmunds gives this car a good rating! Email me about the 8" pile of bills, invoices, and repairs done on my car!
  • barkydogbarkydog Posts: 45
    edited September 2011
    If ever there was a post loaded with hyperbole, exaggeration, lies and BS, this certainly sounds like it.

    Your car has 43.000 miles on it. By then ANY car will need things like new tires, brakes and wiper blades. It needing things like continual tire balancing and alignment might be due to whomever did the work of tire replacement (and whatever else), probably done by the "independent mechanics" you mentioned.

    On a 2009 this car has a five year warranty, so your car is hardly out of warranty at all. If you don't know how to get warranty work done by a dealership, that seems to be your primary problem.

    I am probably the last person on earth wanting to be an apologist for GM and their dealerships, who are pros at making excuses and issuing apologies. (Don't take it personally - they try to do that with everyone if they can.) But if you don't know to complain in a way that is effective in getting results, this will happen.

    With a posting name like "aveosucks" it suggests you are biased, angry, and don't know how to complain in a way that will get your car repaired under warranty.
  • Hi
    Well, I got as far as removing the Ecotec cover, and identified the two torx screws which need to be removed - but I am unsure of the electric type plug on the right side of the bridge coil - its kinda tight in there, and seeing this is my first time intending on changing the plugs, I don't want to mess anything up with the wiring, soooo...just how does one go about removing this electric type plug? I did try to gently pry it off with a flathead screwdriver but didn't seem to make progress, so I returned everything to the way it was and came inside to type this.
    Thanks for any suggestions!
    20Aveo09
  • Hi, sorry for late reply, away from a computer past week and half and just now catching up on emails.

    Anyway. Let me go look and see real quick but if I remember correctly I just used my hand to pull the electric type plug/black plastic connector(it is black with all sorts of wires running into the connector on one side from engine area or somewhere from rest of car, then the other side of connector plugs into the right hand side of coil pack) out off right hand side of coil pack, then used the 40 Torx bit to take out the two screws holding in the coil pack, basically under that coil pack you will have 4 black rubber boots that sit down over top of the spark plugs and connect to them, it will look kind of like 4 black milk cow [non-permissible content removed] hanging down when turned upside down, sorry only thing I could think of to describe those black boots and how they really look.

    Yes I used my hands holding one side of connector/electric plug and pulling it out apart from coil pack with other hand. You might try spraying WD 40 inside or on it or around it and letting it soak then try it. Or you could try holding one side with your hand and using pliers to pull out other side, you will not break it or hurt it, it will slide or come apart, mine was stuck stiff at first until I pulled on it firmly, I just made sure I was gripping the black plastic and not pulling on the wires at all, you should be able to see where the electric connector/plug attaches in center of the connector piece.

    Hope this helps, let me know how it turns out for you.
    Good luck.
  • ecotec2009ecotec2009 Posts: 17
    edited November 2011
    UPDATE: IMPORTANT!

    Just did some checking online and if anyone ever stumbles across this looking for the actual ignition coil pack or coil pack bridge to replace that covers these 4 spark plugs, go online to look at Amazon or RockAuto or Autozone, the prices have dropped like a rock compared to what I was going to have to pay back in Feb of 2011 of $800-$900 range at Autozone then.

    Look for "ACDelco D517C OE Service Ignition Coil Assembly" or "Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 96476983, C164AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5C1703 {#96476983, C1646}" on Autozone it was just ignition coil under the 2009 Aveo model.

    Prices are now $74 @ Amazon.com for ACDelco and $59.99 on Ebay for this AC/Delco to $139 for DuraLast at Autozone to $138 at Rock Auto for Airtex and $96 for ACDelco! Damn I missed it by about 6-8 months or less of OEM parts being made available to order myself instead of having to go to the GMAC dealership shop and pay big time to have them replace the coil which I could have done myself easily. Oh well, I am noticing that it seems to take at least 1-3 years minimum before we have a really good selection on basic maintenance parts for Chevrolet Aveos, took me one year before I could find oil filters under $10 when I first started looking for them it was $30 plus a filter, a ripoff. Then after year I found all kinds available for $5-$10 or less. And same with windshield wiper blades, air filters, cabin filter, etc, I mean you name it. Hope this helps someone save some money in future, since from what I can see a lot of the coil packs on 2009 Aveos konk out at 30,000-60,000 mile range conveniently after warranty covers them.
  • Would like input from any other owners of 2009 Chevy Aveo's, particulary LS manual models in regards to the timing belt or "serpentine belt".

    I noticed manual states to change it out at 100,000 miles.

    1) Has anyone on here already had to change the belt out yet and if so at how many miles?

    2) What name brand or type of belt did you replace it with, style, name, brand, price?

    3) Has anyone on here had the timing belt break on them yet and have to be replaced and did it ruin the engine or any other parts or cause any other problems or expensive repairs?

    I have not had any problems yet and have over 70,000 miles on mine after almost 3 years driving mostly highway at 55-65 mph and with manual transmission. But it is coming up here in next 12-24 months when I will be approaching 100,000 miles and wanted to be proactive on this issue since I have read on this forum where a lot of 2004-2008 owners seemed to have lot of issues with their timing belts breaking before 50,000 miles or less and then totally ruining their engines severely.

    Thanks
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,101
    You really probably should have it at least inspected. If the timing belt breaks while you're driving, it will just snap and leave you stranded, and may damage other parts in the process. You WON'T have any problems with it, until it breaks. Any qualified mechanic can look at it and see if it's showing signs of wear. It's one of those maintenance items that just isn't worth skipping.

    MODERATOR

    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mick1mick1 Posts: 84
    2009 Pontiac g3(aveo5) pulled a spark plug and it is NGK ZFR6U-11. NGK website lists ZFR6F-11. Are these plugs interchangeable. No parts store lists 6U-11. Are they only dealer supplied? Also there are no English language websites that discuss the 6U-11 plug.
  • lindsf82lindsf82 Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo as well. It has given me nothing but problems since day one. When I can afford to get rid of it there will never be another GM product in my driveway. Chevy/GM has the worst customer service ever.

    The the reason that I am replying to your post is because of the tire alignment at every oil change. I was having to do that and replace back tires often. I had to have the car tires shimmed and Chevy refused to help cover the cost because they told me I may have done something to the car to cause that. The car was still under warranty as well. If you still have the car, and you are still having to re-align, look into having the car shimmed. Just be prepared to pay out of pocket.
  • I would like to answer your question on how to change spark plugs on a 2009 chevy aveo...

    There is a eco-tec cover on the top of the motor, it easily comes off if you pull it up on the right side.

    You will see a gray-ish cover (this is your coil pack, Ill abbreviate this as CP from here on) with two torx bolts, you can take it off using torx-bits. The next step is a bit tricky. On the left side of the CP there is an electrical connector that you need to take off. Its easy. There is a clip you can insert a flat head screwdriver into and pull off (i think its purple) do not remove, it just pulls out a few millimeters. Then there is a clip you can push down with your thumb and pull off the connector.

    Once you have done this, you can pull of your CP and expose your spark plugs. You will need a ratchet, long extension and a screwdriver socket.

    I like to do one spark plug at a time.

    Now put your new spark plugs in. It is good practice to put a nice coat of a quality anti seize on the threads of your new spark plugs. Be careful tho, this stuff can be messy.

    Once you have put in all new spark plus, its time to put your coil pack back on. Its good practice to put dielectric grease on the tips of the coils that attach to your spark plugs. This will aid in removal next time you have to do spark plugs. Put the connector back on the CP. Clip the connector on then push the purple safety tab back on. Screw the CP on with the torx bolts. These don't need to be super tight, just an 1/8th of a turn past snug. put your eco-tec cover back on and you are in business!

    Hope this helps. If any errors are found in this posting please let me be aware.

    If you need clarification on anything, send me a message.

    -Jeff

    And good luck!
  • imreal209imreal209 Posts: 1
    I had one coil pack replaced 3 months ago. I got the letter about the recall and took it in to have it worked on. After they replaced the plugs & boots and told it was done it had no power, I did not even get off of the lot. They said the canshaft actuator solenoid valve filers were plugged and it was almost $100. labor $89. and shop parts $4.90. So how is it this just happened when they were working on it? It was running just fine and had never done this before. Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.