Hyundai - Disappearing Oil
*No oil on the driveway
*No oil on the engine block
*No smoke coming from the tailpipe
2011 Hyundai Sonata
Burned 5 quarts of oil in 6000 miles. Does this sound right to you? No warning light of any kind.
*No oil on the engine block
*No smoke coming from the tailpipe
2011 Hyundai Sonata
Burned 5 quarts of oil in 6000 miles. Does this sound right to you? No warning light of any kind.
0
Comments
I know I've been bad about it lately, but I'll make a point to check the oil level every couple of months (easy to do with a calendar reminder on my phone). I suggest you do the same, adjusting the time so that you're checking the oil level no less often than every 2,000 miles.
As in that thread, I point out engines use oil, they have to in order to lubricate the piston rings, and the valve stems and guides. With ever longer drain intervals, the need for consumers to actively check and control the oil levels in their engines has never been as important as it is today. Plus, you must be sure to choose the correct oil, which for now with your Hyundai would be the correct viscosity, and API SN , ILSAC GF5.
Where are all the experts who love to bash auto mechanics when a consumer suffers a preventable failure like you did here? Oh, that's right they are too busy bashing us and trying to save you the occasional $20-$30.
While valve guide wear is possible, there is usually some associated upper engine noise. Can you hear some valve train noise? Hard cornering shouldn't result in the engine ingesting some of the oil from that alone unless there is more oil trapped at the top of the engine than there really should be and that suggests that there may be clogged oil returns from sludge deposits.
It only takes one person to make your statement false, everyone does not take shortcuts. But as far as getting caught in the money game, if you would of had this serviced by a top shop and had all of the documentation you wouldn't be in this situation for at least the warranty denial. What's more is that had the vehicle been serviced with a more appropriate product it easily could have gone 7000 miles between services and not encountered this failure. The API SM and ILSAC GF4 failed to protect the engines correctly in certain circumstances. Meanwhile products that had approvals exceeding that standard (ACEA A1/B1-A5/B5) would have done just fine.
I run my car all day doing delivery (leave it running to save the starter) and it was going through 1 to 2 quarts a week. Jiffy lube can attest to that (they are good for free oil between changes. They said "its just GDI egines".
I CAN'T BELIEVE THE DEALER NEVER RECOMMENDED REPLACING THIS AT LIKE 100K. I have taken it to the dealer often for oil changes since new especially if they have a deal, but mostly for multipoint inspection and recall check. (they replaced my failed fuel line as a good will job after Hyundai denied the recall coverage since they had done the "fix" by wrapping the line with tape. It soon failed after that.)
Here is the oil if you wish to try it, cannot hurt:
you didn't mention your engine size so if you have a 2.4L visit here:
https://searchforparts.com/oil-change/hyundai-2011-sonata-2.4l-c
if your vehicle is a 2.0 L, then try this
https://searchforparts.com/oil-change/hyundai-2011-sonata-2.0l-b
hope this helps! This is a last resort if no leaks and no issues were found.
My son has Tucsan and having the same issue...