Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance
11,000 miles with no problems other than 2 dealer recalls. I have noticed that my 2.5 tends to use a little oil, a little less than a quart between changes at 3 to 4k intervals. So keep an eye on oil level. I have also heard that Purolator or Motorcraft filters might be best for the 2.5 duratec due ot the presence of an anti-drain back device. No big deal as Purolators are easy to find and generally only about 1 or 2 bucks more than a Fram. Other than that, just a lot of fun driving.
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Of course, I am also wondering if a wider 215/60/15 would be more appropriate. The edges wore especially bad, even after a warranty alignment.
Silver (but no passenger) Driver
Thanks for the link. What I still don't understand is the Load Index 92 vs 94. The "P" tires commonly stocked and cheaper have 92, but the new spec is 94. Do you know what this means?
I'm going to understand this before the sales guy sells me something that fits, but wears poorly.
I am also having the synthetic/plain oil debate in my own mind. I've always used plain oil and changed it every 3k but that was on used cars. I've only got 300 miles on the MPV so I've got a couple weeks to decide :@).
There are many advantages of synthetic oils, imo, flow characteristics, resistance to heat breakdown, lower friction levels. A drawback to synth oil is that if you have a tiny oil leak, then, synthetic oil will leak better than dyno oil.
IMHO, using synthetic oil is just cheap insurance for keeping your engine running well.
I'm a worry wart, so I still change oil every 3mths/3,000 miles even with synthetics. I only do this for 2 reasons: a)Dear-ol-Dad taught me that way, and 2)It's common practice with turbo-charged cars, and that's what I'm used to. This usually comes out to be every 2200 miles with the amount of driving in our household. I'd say it's overkill, but figure it's cheap insurance. There's prolly nothing wrong with going 5k to 7.5k on synthetic oils unless you're either towing or driving the car hard.
my 2.6cents. ;-)
Don't listen to the oil change centers, car dealerships, etc. in determining your oil change intervals, They'll always chant their mantra - 3k miles. The reason? You'll see them more often and therefore give them more money! Each engine is different - some cars require the 3k interval (turbos, 4 cylinder engine, high-rev engines), but most don't (including V-6's and V-8's). It's safe and advisable to follow the manufacturer's recommendation in your owner's manual (according to many studies). It also produces less waste and is a better management of our natural resources. If you're still concerned, follow the "extreme conditions" intervals rather than the "normal conditions". I plan to change mine every 5k after the first so it's easier to remember!
I read a study done by Consumer Reports- which tested the difference b/w oil changed taxis in NYC (each w/ a newly built engine).
One car changed their oil every 3K
Another- every 7K (or something like that)
The Bottom line, not a very noticable difference... very insignificant difference in engine wear (tiny)
I always held the same sentiment as j2kbarlow... how the garages/oil change centers always say, "of course you need to change your oil every 2500 or 3000 miles"... we want YOUR MONEY!!!!
I'm settlin' for about 5K to be somewhere in the middle.
Just picked up my '01 MPV yesterday, and now I have this question...
I've been reading the discussion "2000+ MPV problems" on the vans forum the past few days, and saw a lot of post were concerned with the oil leaking/filter problem with the MPV. I've always changed the oil myself on my cars, whenever possible. After reading those posts, I'm having second thoughts about doing it myself. For those of you doing the oil change yourself, are you doing anything differently on the MPV compare to other cars? For example I normally just tighten the oil filter by hand, and I heard that for the MPV you need to tighten it with a wrench, and things like that. I don't want to risk doing it myself and having some sort of filter blowout and burn up the engine.
TIA for any advice, and I apologize if this post is too long.
You have to remove the glove box. This will take a little bit of muscling of the box to the left I believe then pulling. You also have to get it past the stops, but it is double. Once you remove it you will see a small door to the AC unit. You open that door and the air filter actually wraps around the a squirrel cage.
A new filter will cost you about $35-40 bucks.
So I had to go back to my [Red Line Oil] synthetic ATF source (it's hard to find that brand) to purchase four additional qts, and then make another visit to the dealership for the switch. The procedure ended up requiring only 15 quarts, so now I have one qt left over if I ever need to add a little.
The dealership was fine about doing the conversion to synthetic. I noticed they now even carry Castrol Syntec synthetic motor oil, since some of their customers prefer to use synthetic. I suspect they also carry synthetic ATF, but I wanted to use Red Line Oil because I had read many good things about the quality of their products.
I don't know whether it was the mechanic's running some cleaner through during the flush stage, or whether the improvement is attributable solely to the synthetic ATF, or whether it's a combination of the two, but the transmission does shift smoother now. Of course it helps to have lived with the previous rough-shifting to appreciate by comparison the relative smoothness now, otherwise the improved shifting could easily have been taken for granted, or even still complained about.
Now on my wife's 2000 MPV, I am still changing the oil at 5K miles but using Exxon Synthetic Blend 10-40. I use Motorcraft filters, tighten by hand only, and so far (25K miles) have had no leaks.
For normal driving conditions 5000 miles is fine for oil changes for the MPV, even with dino oil. Just make sure you use 5W, the Durtec's engine has tighter tolerances and the thinner oil is perfect for our engine, especially helpful in cold climates.
This sounds very interesting to me that, it seems like Mazda is not encouraging MPV owners to do oil changes themselves, not with swapping the old oil filter with a new one anyway. Is Mazda being concerned about the MPV's problem of the oil filter gets loosened on itself too easily and therefore not recommed owners to do it themselves?
What specific things should I "warn" him about regarding oil changes? I'm still confused about the odd tightening of the filter, whether to go with 5W-30, or whatever. He's a Toyota mechanic, but he has also serviced our Sable, and Accord. I don't want to insult his intelligence, but if there are particular things he should know, I'd like to caution him.
Also, based on some discussions here, I'm thinking of stretching the oil change interval to 5k miles vs 3k. I'm sticking with conventional oil, not synthetic, if that makes a difference in your opinion.
Thanks in advance.
That said, I'm surprised that the transmission fluid isn't changed as well at 30K. That's pretty standard stuff...
I'm surprised that more car manufacturers are not using anti-hydroscopic brake fluids... DOT5 synthetics, which don't eat the paint off your car if you drip it, can give you much longer duty-cycles on your brake fluid, and can potentially reduce maintenance costs. There are drawbacks to DOT5 fluid... esp. because you cannot mix it w/any lower rated fluids; it is partially compressable (softer pedal feel); not as readily available; is expensive.
It is odd that alot of car makers don't specify shorter duty-cycles on auomatic transmission fluid. Some even say "lifetime" as in do not change the fluid. My Volvo's that way, but no one I know goes by that. I'd hate to rely on that "lifetime" fluid and then have a $2k- $4k bill if the tranny goes south on me. The transmission fluid in an automatic goes thru holy-heck, and can break down quickly. The best thing to do is check it from time to time and see if the fluid is turned black or smells burnt. If it does, then it's definitely time to change the fluid, and your car's shop manual will have instructions on the procedure.
I'd recommmend changing both Brake and Tranny fluid every other year. Cheap insurance imho.
All my vehicles get Castrol GT-LMA brake fluid.
If you're talking about the rear brake/combo lights: I believe you need to remove the rear trim panel. First, slide the second row seats forward, and stow the third row seat. Next, pull the cup holder (if applicable) out (forward and out I think) and unclip the clips holding that in. Now, you find the bolt(s) holding the panel in place (along with a number of clips), undo the bolt(s) and clips and carefully remove the panel. You should have access to the tail lights and it should be fairly obvious from there.
Hope that helps!
Also, the owner's manual states that the fuel level should never go below 1/4, but I would like to know why. Thanks!
As far as having 1/4 tank or more of fuel, it's recommended primarily due to the fact that the fuel acts as a lubricant (and coolant) to the fuel pump. Keeping the level high enough ensures this. Others might note about 'crud' that can accumulate in the bottom of a gas tank that might get picked up by the fuel pump if the level is lower. And finally, in colder months, moisture (condensation) can accumulate in the empty portion of the tank, which doesn't mix well with fuel and can cause hesitation, etc.
tops of the wires, but it looks like the intake manifold will have to come
off to get the wires off and plugs in and out. Any advice will be greatly
Also has anyone found a good shop manual for the 2000 MPV?
Is handling better in the larger diameters?
Do you get more road noise in the larger diameters?
Is the ride bumpier, smoother, or about the same with the larger tires?
I have the 15" alloys on my 02 MPV and think the larger ones will look better. If I make that change once I need to replace my original dunlops, what would I be getting besides a better-looking MPV?
1. Better handling from the shorter sidewalls of the tires (even though you are increasing the diameter of the wheel, the outside diameter will stay the same, within a couple of percent, so that your speedo and odmeter, and your gearing remain accurate)
2. A slightly harder ride- shorter sidewalls = less sidewall flex
3. Higher replacement cost for tires
As for road noise, that is based on tread pattern, not tire size. My 01 has the touring package with 16" rims. I wouldn't go any bigger here in Boston, cause the road conditions tend to suck, and the narower the sidewall is, the more likely a pothole could take out a wheel.
Yesterday, someone "broke" my '00 MPV right electric mirror. Hopefully, the mirror part itself is in one piece but I have to put it back on.
It's OK for the two electric wires but there are two (well, make them four) other parts which I have a hard time to figure out : There are two plastic coated metal "claws", one pivoting up and down, the other one well, you guessed it, from left to right. They are located on the back of the mirror.
The two other parts are blue rubber coated holes (I have no ideas what's inside those holes). They are facing the two other "claws" (into the mirror receptacle).
I know this is a quite technical question but hey, what do I have to loose asking ?
Many thanks in advance !!
Silver (CLOSER THAN I APPEAR) Driver
The unit cost about $150 and about one hour of labor brought the total to $220. Not enough to send to the insurance company. Also cheap enough to have someone else do it.