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Vehicle runs fine....fingers crossed!
My new front rack is still solid after 2000 miles on it.
Thank God for the extended warranty I bought!
Hope that if the tranny goes it goes in the next 18K miles!!
The one thing I do know to check for is to make sure that the gas cap is on tight. My check eng. light came on in my Buick and that was the problem.
Finally went into my friendly Bear dealer to see what the issue would be and held my breath. Well, the problem was a collapsed PCV hose assembly with a crack! This had been fixed before at 36K miles under the RECALL!! Now they would not replace it unless I paid the $290 for the diagnostic and the $86 part!! I got on the phone with Customer Service and they acted shocked that it would not be covered, but only would offer me a $100 GIFT CERTIFICATE to use on future Mazda work!! My extended MAZDA warranty - the one that has been so good in the past, would not cover this hose issue....normal maintenance..right!!!
My biggest issue is that Mazda will not stand behind a recalled and previously fixed part on a SECOND REPAIR! I've never heard of this before. I've owned Dodges, Toyotas, Chevy's and they all always repair the item since they know it's a bad design. Mazda sucks it and they won't budge!
Anyone else had this issue before???
Sincerely disgusted Mazda owner with a lemon in the making at 83K miles. If anyone else has had this issue, we should get together and form a group to send letters to the boys of M and let them know this is not right!
The cabin filter is about 100 alone to change.
I bought mine aftermarket out of a Mazda parts place in TX. and had them install. Price was discounted on the part to $45 and the labor was $20. Other than that, they want plugs changed that don't need changing until 100K miles, filter, tire stuff, etc. Be ready. I have the no deduct. warranty too and am flying on that to save some of the pain for the future. Can you tell I'm a bit peeved at MAZDA due to my other issue mentioned on an earlier email? :mad:
My 2001 "Red" turned 107,500 (or more - I forget) last week. I have replaced the battery twice, the plastic water reservoir tank (leaked like a sponge), and the drive belt once. Other than that - it ain't broke...yet. It starts just fine on the first spin (Looking where the plugs are located (eeek) hasn't excited me - so haven't touched them). I drive mostly freeways (in Houston more like 4 lane parking lots) and consistent 21~22 MPG with A/C on all the time (Remember - Houston...).
Of course, Something may go south soon but so far this has been the best auto I've owned. Someone at the factory really did this one right.
I am looking to replace my original OEM Dunlops soon...if that makes anyone feel any better.
I put Goodyear Assurance on my van about 30K ago (insert Bob rechecks mileage here) - very nice tires-smooth-good handling in rain (Houston, again..) 80K warranty. I haven't seen any wear yet.
I knew going in that it would be at least $399, not including the cabin filter or TB cleaning. The only reason I went ahead with it is that doing the 60k service at this dealership enrolled me in their "free oil changes for life" program. I figure I'll have the van for nearly 4 more years (until the extended warranty expires) and about 11-12 oil changes. At $25 a pop, that's about $300 right there. Plus they do a thorough inspection during oil changes and a free wash. So I thought that overall it was worth it.
Oh, and I asked them about a problem with the fuel gauge not reading Full, and they said the fuel sending unit is bad and ordered the part. The extended warranty will take care of that one.
Also, unless they were giving you a discount on the 60k service, I would ask for $28 (or whatever they charge) back for the non tire rotation.
Actually now that I think of it, they may have taken something off for the non-rotation, since they originally quoted me $399 for the 60k service and then added the cabin filter replacement ($69 including filter) and the throttle-body cleaning.
Are there any special tools needed when doing a break job on a 2004 MVP? I will be changing the Break Pads and Rotors for both front and read wheals. One of my also not so smart buddies said I may need a tool for the Rear Calapers?????? PLEASE HELP
Do you have a moonroof? Perhaps one of the drains which run down each of the front pillars is clogged or broken?
I suppose a bad front windshield seal could cause water to come into the cabin. Not common, but plausible.
The best way to try and isolate this is to start testing with a garden hose (or an automatic car wash!), directing water at the windshield, cowl, driver door, etc. If none of that yields water in the cabin, then try running the AC for an extended period (preferably when it's humid out so that it condenses more).
I want to remove the front passenger seat in a 2001 Mazda MPV. The
owner's manual doesn't contain any instructions. Has anyone here
done it before? I found the four bolts hidden under platic caps,
but I am a little concerned about messing up the airbag/sensor.
Any help would be appreciated!
I have a 2001 MPV that has 70k miles on it (mostly highway miles), and there has been no issue/problem with the automatic transmission, and partly because the owner's manual does not mention any scheduled change of ATF and partly of my negligence, I have not had any ATF change on the transmission from day 1.
I've done some research on the internet on having the ATF change, and there are a lot of theories out there on when to change and what type of change to perform (just fluid change, drop pan and filter, and what not), and some even suggest not to do any ATF change if no maintenance has been done to the transmission because new fluid will cause the tranny to fail, and should just leave the fluid alone (if this theory is true). I just want to ask you all for your opinion on what to do? I took out the dipstick and examine the fluid, it's still mostly red (if that is any kind of indication). And why does owner's manual not mention any scheduled maintenance to the ATF fluid (except to examine it twice a year, that's all I could find), should I just leave everything alone for the time being? I can't imagine leave the fluid in there and not change it at all, but don't want to risk a still working tranny. Thanks for any opinion/suggestion.
you're right - zip info in owners manual
Couple of questions for you jipster. I checked the fluid from the dipstick, and dropped a couple on a piece of paper towel, the fluid shows a light brown color (after spreaded out) and I don't think it smells burned (well I don't exactly know how the "burned" smell is. 1) If I don't do anything, eventually the ATF is going to breakdown and needs to be changed, is that right? Then at that time I will have to replace/change the fluid anyway? 2) Why is it you wouldn't do a flush? Is that because a flush would replace all the fluid rather than the drain and fill method, and that wouldn't be good for the a tranny that age and mileage, and you want to leave some old fluid in the tranny?
Thanks in advance.
hmmm, I have a 2004 MPV LX, which currently has about 44,000 miles. It showed light brown transmission fluid on the dipstick at about 26,000 miles. I went ahead and did a transmission flush and filter change, at 26k miles, to be on the safe side.
I'm in the better safe than sorry camp when it comes to the MPV transmission. Will probably do another flush at 50k or 60k miles. Currently the fluid color is still reddish pink.
If I don't do anything, eventually the ATF is going to breakdown and needs to be changed, is that right?
Right. I'm not an expert, but trans. fluid turning brown is not a good sign to me. It's starting to break down or pick up contaminants.
Why is it you wouldn't do a flush?
What I have read as that a flush "may" loosen some of the materials (on older/high mileage vehicles without any prior trans. fluid changes) stuck on gaskets etc, which then in turn may clog up certain parts of the transmission leading to failure. Some mechanics say this is baloney, and a flush will do no harm, others swear to the fact. Changing out all the fluid at the same time should not be a problem.
I didn't have any problems after a flush when my trans. fluid showed brown. So, if you feel comfortable with a flush go ahead and do it.
Although I wouldn't necessarily rush to have anything done, I would definitely have the fluid changed under the circumstances you just described (brownish fluid). The only question would be whether to do multiple drain and fills (removes a couple quarts at a time), a pan drop and fill, or the flush. I'm not real familiar with the 2001 MPV, which has the 4 speed transmission.... while the 2002 and up have the 5 speed. So, not sure if all those methods would be available to you.
If you google mpvclub you should find some more information on how to change out the fluid yourself if you are so inclined. Good luck and keep us posted.
After 70k miles, I think the condition of the old fluid wasn't that bad (it showed very light brown but the smell was more or less the same as the supposedly new fluid right now, showing clear pinkish color).
Recently I've started to notice some coolant outside of the overflow plastic reservoir, the area below the overflow tank and the power steering tank. Initially I wiped off the traces of the coolant and I thought it could come from the little hose out of the plastic overflow tank when the engine was running hot, but then again I started seeing traces of coolant again. And then I used a piece of small paper towel to wipe the area clean again and I discovered there was more coolant traces on the *bottom* of the plastic tank (I managed to get my hand underneath some connecting hose through to the bottom of the coolant reservoir). I'm suspecting there might be some leakage at the bottom of the plastic container (is it possible and how a crack could come up there?). I'm paying close attention to the level of the coolant now and see if it gets dropped (which doesn't seem to be the case though).
In case the plastic container really is leaking, is it a big job to replace it? I'm no mechanic, have only done the oil changes myself and tire rotation, in addition to the front disc pads job on the MPV, and I'm wondering if I can replace it myself. The tank itself only seems to be held by a couple of screws and connected to some hoses. Thanks for any suggestion/opinion.
This seems to be a common problem for MPV. Any suggestions on improving this situation?
Thanks for ur help...