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Comments
Be persistent and good luck!
I believe what you are experiencing is an unlocked torque converter, which is completely normal. Basically, when the ATF is cold, the torque converter doesn't lock up between gears (especially noticeable when O/D is NOT off, and you're in top gear) until the ATF reaches operating temperature.
Why does the TC not lock when ATF is cold? An unlocked TC heats up the fluid more quickly because it puts more shear forces and friction on the ATF. Once the ATF is hot, the TC locks up (when appropriate).
Incidentally, during summer months (and usually when towing), an unlocked TC is a bad thing, which is one of the functions of O/D OFF. With O/D OFF, the transmission refuses to shift out of 3rd gear, and the TC remains locked at speeds over 50mph. If O/D is not off, the TC is free to lock and unlock in 4th gear (O/D) as additional torque is needed to maintain speed.
For more on this behavior, click HERE
I have the TSB and it takes you through a thorough diagnosis using a test drive. I'll try to check it out over the next few weeks to confirm.
Thanks.
They claim that people often bump the seat controls when entering/exiting the car. If you do, the seat memory disengages assuming a new driver is adjusting it. You then need to hit a memory position to bring it back to normal. I can't confirm that this is what is happening to me, but it seems difficult to accidentally bump the controls.
Thanks,
Patrick
Your right-hand turn merely released that tension.
You have nothing to worry about.
When the "O/D OFF" dashboard lamp is lit, OverDrive is DISABLED. Under most driving conditions, OverDrive should NOT be disabled. In other words, you will most commonly be driving with the "O/D OFF" lamp UNlit.
Generally you should disable O/D when towing, climbing steep grades, and sometimes descending steep grades. Why? When O/D is enabled, the torque converter is allowed to slip. If the TC is allowed to slip for a long period of time (as little as 2 minutes) it may burn the ATF, which will damage the transmission. Using synthetic ATF will reduce the chances that this can happen, though.
Disabling O/D when descending hills is a useful way to provide improved engine braking, especially if you find yourself having to use the brakes often.
The check engine light comes on-the only thing I could think that is causing it to reset is the knock sensor is degraded and needs to be replaced. Is there any other sensor that will make the knock sensor reset, for example, could the O2 sensor trigger this annoyance. HEEEELLLLP.
Jim
Also, interesting to note is that the passengers air bag cover is not the same shade of brown as the rest of the dashboard. Of course I didn't notice this at the dealership because I was there at night every time. The vehicle had 9 miles on it at purchase. Could it have been in an accident? What is reasonable to expect in interior shading conditions? What should I expect the dealers response to be?
To me, it sounds like a differential problem; but, I am a far cry from an expert and would like a more educated opinion before I head into my not-so-friendly dealer. I have a 1996 Pathfinder XE with 140,000 miles, so fully expect that replacement of a part may be needed.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
My service engine soon light came on yesterday.
Nissan Dealer ran computer check and came up with O2 Sensor and Catalytic Converter need to be replaced. $1200-$1500 repair bill!!
Anyone had experience with aftermarket parts(Not Nissan)for these two items? Also could bad O2 Sensor cause bad read out for the Catalytic Converter?
Your 2004 brakes are not an unusual phenomenon - my brakes also feel somewhat soft and inconsistent at times. Other posters here have postulated this is due to smallish brake rotors (that tend to warp due to small size) and rear drums rather than discs.
In any event, my 2003 4x4 does stop well if not as "right now" and smoothly as other cars I've driven. I've written it off as part of driving a truck (sort of) rather than a car.
Like many people I have an issue with my bose CD changer. I've tried playing all types of CDs in it and it just won't read them. I get an 'ERR 1' message. I have no idea what that means. I initially thought it had to do with the cold weather and/or the humidity. So I warmed up the car making sure the AC was on to get rid of the humidity. However that didn't work. Does anyone have any idea?
Also, on many of the FM channels, I get this really annoying static when I shouldn't. In other cars that I've been in, the reception for these channels is really good. Only when I'm in the pathfinder do I get the static. Any ideas?
I have a 96 nissan pathfinder. It has 110,000 miles.
I just had 2 new o2 sensors put in. Also, I had the dealer do a dignostic to tell me what was wrong with the truck all around. I had all the problems repaired that they recommended.
The engine light still comes on despite all this. Then it will go out for a couple days then stay on for another month after that. I have the gas cap on tightly. Also, I read there was a way to clean the o2 sensors myself. Can anyone offer some insight?
Thanks
Thanks.
Thanks..
Just purchased an '01 Pathfinder on Saturday. My wife and I noticed during our test drive that the door ajar light was stuck on. We stopped the car and made sure all of the doors were shut, but the light would not go off.
Stupid me didn't eveb think to test the rear wiper during the drive until after purchase.. it's not working. I have to wonder if these two problems are related, and whether it could be something as simple as a fuse.
I'm currently slated to go back to the dealer (2 hour drive!) to have it checked out, but am hoping I can fix it myself. Does anyone have any knowledge/advice on this subject?
It was a warm day when we bought it.. we tested the A/C and it worked fine. Didn't notice until it got a bit colder that the heater doesn't seem to be working properly. It's got the auto temp control.. it was probably 40 degrees out and the temp was set at 75.. and there was cool air blowing from the heater vent. Tried cranking up the temp, and somewhere around 83 or 84 the air started to warm up *somewhat* (should be a blast furnace by now, but was at best sorta-warm), and the fan was on 75% blast. Wouldn't slow down at any point either.
I'm currently assuming that I'll have to take it in and have it fixed.. but does anyone have any idea as to what the problem might be? I don't know if it's related to the temp sensor or the heater itself.
Wiper: check the fuse. maybe a relay that is bad. Don't think it is related to door ajar light issue.
Heater: Pathy heaters aren't that strong. Give the engine some time to warm up. After long while still not warm enough, take to dealer. Many factors could be the cause.
Make appointment and have dealer check all problems you have. Check and recheck everything before going in. Check out www.alldata.com for known service issues and bring it in with you.
Pathys are relatively problem free but some occasional pop up and are usually not major. Awesom SUV all around.....Good luck
2001 LE with 41K
Automatic AC
Overall though, the engine management computer will tell the whole story. If your mechanic isn't pulling the error codes from the computer, then find another mechanic. Remember, a good independant mechanic can pull the codes too, you don't just have to rely on the dealer's assessment.
the vehicle to roll, after approx. 5-7 yards, I hear two quick knocks or pangs from the engine, only happens right after startup it is best heard without acceleration, but does occur with or without. I can repeat it
over and over just stop shut off and repeat.
At night I can see a very faint flicker of
my headlights at the exact time of the knock. First noticed @ 1000 miles, now have
16500 mi on my 02 SE. Recently drove a new
03 LE with 200 miles on it, got the same noise. Anybody else ever notice this??
The fact that your headlights dim when this happens provides further evidence, since the ABS system is electrically activated.
normal, but didn't explain what it was. It
has really bothered me since I first heard
the noise. I was somewhat distrustful of
the dealer. I was really convinced that it
was detonation and the headlight flicker was
indicating a power loss. I appreciate the
heip.