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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Hey BAMAFAMILY, the dealership I took mine to wouldn't reprogram the ECM until the faulty O2 sensor was replaced. If you read the TSB it does state that the sensor should be replaced first, then reprogram the ECM, although I don't know why. Good luck though. Ditto on what LBINH said... see if they can tell you what the reprogram does. I don't think any of us have ever heard definitively what it does. Thanks...
  • I made an appointment for the ECM reprogram on Friday a cost of $70 and 1.5 hours of work.??? to reflash the ECM??? What are they going to do?? send the code via a telegraph machine in S.O.S. format?? LOL

    The Service manager said that the ECM reprogram would "Expand the parameters of the O2 sensor" Make of it what you will...

    I am still hesitant to have it done if my SES light will keep coming on and going off based on my gas grade...

    Just wondering if I should just live with it and record the codes now that I have a Carchip to help diagnose it??

    Also, do most auto shops do a regular oil/synthetic swapover?? I have been thinking of doing this for a year now...or is it a waste of time with 42K already on my Pathy??

  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    You might remind the dealership that although your O2 sensors are out of warranty, the ECM is covered under the Long-Term Federal Emission Warranty for 96 months/80,000 miles. I can't remember what year yours is but mine is a 2001 & the parts covered are specifically listed on page 8 of my Warranty Information book. The dealership I took mine to agreed with this, but they wanted me to replace the O2 sensor first, as the TSB says to do. Besides, 1.5 hours of labor sound rediculous when all they have to do is hook up to the port, read the version number of your ECM & download the new one.
  • have them replace the O2 sensor for $150?? to get the free ECM program???

    I do like the warranty/emission catch though...thx
  • I have a 1992 Nissan Pathfinder. The beast has 225k miles on it and still runs strong… as soon as you get it started. About 2 months ago my car started having problems starting. There were no problems prior but one day while I was sitting in line at Jack in the Box, I turned off my car because we had been sitting a while. When the person finally finished, maybe 5 min later at the most, I tried to start my car but it wouldn’t. If you took the audio from a car starting up, my car would go from 0%-80%, JUST about to start, but then sit at 80%, never fully starting up, but continuing to sound like it was ABOUT to. After a few attempts it started right up and had no problems again for a week or so. The next time I had the problem one night when I was heading out, it wouldn’t start, but a few attempts and it started and was fine, starting up perfect later in the night etc. Heres the weird part tho. It is 100% random from m experiences. One morning, after sitting in 30 degree weather, it started right up. One morning after sitting in the cold it won’t. Some days after driving gently around town it will start right back up. Some days it won’t. The ability to start has NOTHING to do with the temperature of the car or outside air, or how long it’s been sitting. So I’m totally confused as to what it could be because its currently sitting down the street at Safeway, because I was out driving around, then stopped t Safeway to get gas, turned it off, filled up my tank, started it up, drove another 50 feet to a parking space in front of Safeway (It was a Safeway gas station) , went inside to buy a pop, maybe a 5 min trip tops, came out and it wouldn’t start, no matter how many times I sat there trying to start it. Any help as how I could fix this or anything else you need to know to help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!! Thank you!
  • anyoxanyox Posts: 1
    My 97 Manual Pathfinder has been on the fritz recently. I recently bought the car and everything was fine when I purchased it, but has since developed a grinding squeal that occurs when just starting the car after not running it for a day. The sound is more often after I have shifted into reverse and when I apply power for the first time to back up. It used to go away when I shifted into first, but has since begun to last a little longer. I have found that the sound goes away if I rev the engine a little bit, but otherwise don't know what the problem could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you happen to know what the problem is, is it possible to wait on fixing it for another monthor should I take it in ASAP. Thanks.
  • Mileage is marginal but what did you expect? I get about 16-18 mpg in town and 20 highway.
  • The rattling in the A-frame column, the always dirty waffle trim on the step rails and rear entry, the strange texture on the dash and interior that can't be cleaned. My wife also ruined one of the back seats by reclining the front passenger seat while the rear was folded for cargo. A good vehicle but I would suggest waiting for next years model. There are too many new car bugs.
  • v6enginev6engine Posts: 10
    Check your EGR valve, it could be partially stuck or check your fuel and air filters
  • Could anybody help me track down this member, this post is a cut and paste from a 2001 post. The members name was flyinlow. I have the same problem and I was wondering if he got an answer.

    Thank You


    The moonroof on my 2000 SE is not working right (car is 9 months old and has 9,000 miles). The 'tilt' function is fine, but it will no longer retract normally: it goes back a few inches and stops. If you push the switch again it will open a few more inches. Press again, a few more inches. This is true whether you press and hold or click the button for auto-retracting. After doing this twice I closed it and haven't tried opening it again (tilt still works OK). Sometimes when closing the tilt function, it 'overshoots' and starts to retract the glass. I think it's a switch problem or position sensor problem or something like that. Is there a computer involved with the roof?

    I'm hoping someone has experience with this and can give me some advice before I take it to the dealer, because I don't trust them much. I'd especially like to avoid having them rip down the headliner while troubleshooting.
  • rroserrose Posts: 1
    I also have a 92 Pathfinder. I had a problem last July were I would turn the ignition key and nothing happen like a dead battery with no juice. I would try it several times and then it started. It did this for several days then I changed the battery the problem went away, it started fine. Well about a week ago it did the same thing for about a day, I replaced the battery again and it has worked fine since?
  • toddf1toddf1 Posts: 4
    Wondering if anyone has any ideas or if they could send me the wiring schematic for my 92 SE pathfinder 3.0L V6. I have traced the power to the fuel pump and back up to the front body grounds and it all looks good. I have checked all the ground connections I can find and they seem okay too. No luck on the fuel gauge. I am going to change the temperature sensor but it looks like there is power going to it as well. Fuses look okay, but both gauges went around the same time so thinking a short or ground, but can't find the problem yet.

    Any help would be most appreciated,

  • cml17cml17 Posts: 4
    About a month ago my Pathfinder was starting REALLY rough and the SES light came on. I pulled the code and it said that the 3rd cylinder coil was bad. Had it replaced for $200+, then a week later the SES light comes on again and this time it says the 1st cyliner coil is bad. Car only has approximately 50,000 miles on it. Before I go and spend another $200 I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did about it. Not really thrilled about replacing all 6 coils one by one. (It is a 6-cylinder engine) Thanks!
  • cujobabycujobaby Posts: 1
    i have a 1991 nissan pathfinder. for some reason i was convinced that i knew how to replace a burnt out turn signal bulb (front drivers side). i have recently realized that i don't. i was also thouroughly convinced until recently that i knew exactly where my trusty owners manual was. i don't. so basically i am hoping that someone would be so gracious as to offfer a brief descriptioin of how to replace the burnt out bulb. thank you for your time and information.
  • Well thank you v6, I removed my EGR valve and am holding it in my hand. It looks prtty gross and when I blow in the spout thing that connected to the exhaust manifold, I can get a little air through with little effort. When I push the springy thing that opens the valve I can blow through fully, but it never COMPLETELY seals, I can always get at least a little air through. My question is whether this is normal or whether I need to clean it, and if I do, how do i clean it? Thanks for your help. If you want you can just email me at so we can discuss this directly. thank you!
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    We prefer that the information be posted here rather than in email. This way all of our members can benefit from the knowledge.

    Thanks! :)

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  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Not sure where the turn signal is on your truck, but the bulb should be pretty easy to replace.

    If the turn signals are in the bumper, remove the screws holding the orange lens in place, and you can access the bulb after removing the lens.

    If the turn signals are on the corners next to the headlamp, open the hood and remove the screw holding the top of the turn signal to the body. With a little pressure the rest of the lamp should pull away from the truck. Access the bulb from behind the lens.
  • Take a look in your owners manual about "resetting" your sunroof. This is something you have to do when you disconnect the battery. When I bought my Pathfinder, the dealer neglected to do this routine, and my sunroof was not working. There is a certain procedure you must do with the sunroof buttons. Hopefully, this helps.
  • No Remadies..Sounds better than me !! Im getting around 18 Liters per 100 !! So sounds about right ! I have an Automatic and keep the condition switch on Sport ! I seem to get 1 to 2 liters better mileage (km). Lay easy on the pedal and acellerate slow... Thats the way it is !!
  • WOW. sounds like the Identical problem I was having. Please read message 1327. I fixed it by replacing the distributor assembly. The problem was the Coil is mounted under the Distributor Cap. The coil was getting warm and expanding breaking contact. When the car was running the break was not enough to shut down the engine. But when I shut it off that was it. No more start,, Very Random.. More so when it was warm outside. Went to Nissan and put it on the Computer and showed problems in the Ignition. No parts inside the Distributor are replaceable! Only the entire Distributor ! Bought a New Distributor from 300 Dollars. Everything works great now !!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    First, remember, this is a two metric tonne vehicle! With 240 or so HP! It will need to burn fuel to move ;). To improve mileage I switched to Mobil 1 oil - but I use 10W30. Mileage improved about 10%, paying for the expensive oil.

    I just got back from a trip to B.C. (from Alberta). I burn 13 to 14 L/100 km when I cruise around 100 to 120 km/hr (60 to 75 MPH). I noticed if I cruise much faster than this my 2001 LE starts burning 15 L/100 km and up! There seems to be a "sweet spot" above which you shouldn't go if you want reasonable economy.

    Around town, it's much more depressing, typically 15 in summer and 17 L/100 km in winter!

    All these figures are not bad however. I owned a Landcruiser with less power and similar weight, and it used 20 L/100 km. Of course gas was only 50 cents a litre back then, not a buck as it is now.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    I think people are confusing the SES light cause. Fuel octane rating shouldn't affect the light unless it comes on for pinging. "More expensive fuel" is not "better" than regular fuel. It just has a higher octane rating, and that only affects "pinging" and preignition. This has nothing to do with O2 sensors. They are damaged by too much sulphur in the fuel (and other additives such as lead).

    Oh, and high octane rating fuel will not give you more power either, unless your engine is designed to use it. It will actually lower power/decrease mileage if your engine is designed for "regular" 87 octane fuel.
  • algraffalgraff Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Pathfinder and the weather striping along the bottom of all four windows have started to rust and peel. I went to the dealer to see how much to replace and they said this is a common problem (due to bad design) and the trim is $115 CAD a piece! This is unreal, I cannot believe that they can charge so much for plastic pieces. I have checked Ebay and the local auto wreckers and I can't find any. Does anyone know where I can purchase these trim pieces for a decent price?
  • jim243jim243 Posts: 7
    Todd -- My son had a 1992 SE Pathfinder and we had an intermittent problem with the fuel gauge where it would stop working. I don't remember if the temp gauge was also involved but the fuel gauge problem was caused by the "dash voltage regulator" which is attached to the circuit board which is part of the instrument cluster. This is the site where they mention the problem:

    The voltage regulator costs $31.70 and as I remember there was a little circuit board that was bolted on and was easy to replace. You must take the instrument cluster apart which is the hardest part. If I remember correctly there are a few hidden screws covered by the ash tray and 2 screws on each side of the dashboard that you reach from underneath and a couple that you can see along the top of the instrument cluster. Since you will be taking apart the instrument cluster you may want to replace some or all of the indicator bulbs while everything is apart. You will also have to remove some of the wiring harness plugs to maneuver the circuit board to access the back of it so take good notes where everything is plugged in. Be careful when you reassemble the dash because it is hard to line up the speedometer cable (hex shaft) so it engages properly.

    I hope this helps. You may want to ask the dealer parts department if the temp gauge is also controlled/fixed by the new voltage regulator. Jim
  • jim243jim243 Posts: 7
    Todd, I found another site for you to look at which has some pictures and more information. It is Jim
  • Greetings, everyone! I am new to this board do to a rather unfortunate event. I purchased a 92 Pathfinder SE last June. It had 82,000 miles on it, and I considered it a great deal. Yesterday I went to go to the store, and noticed that the engine oil pressure light was on. I pulled over as soon as I could, and when I got out I noticed smoking coming from under the hood, and a trail of oil on the road that I had just traveled. I added what oil I had in the car, and got the vehicle back home, durning which I heard a rather unnerving knocking from the engine. I finally got the vehicle to the dealer, and upon inspection they told me that I needed a new engine, to the tune of 2800.00. Fine and dandy, as I realize that these things sometimes happen. I wanted to ask two questions. 1) Has anyone else had such a dramatic engine failure with a Pathfinder of a similar year. 2) Might I have destroyed the engine in the short distance that I drove it (about 1.5 miles)? I had oil checkups/changes every three thousand miles, and maintained it well (or so I thought). Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • wiseone2wiseone2 Posts: 15
    Purchased new 9/02. I have about 31k miles. The car still
    makes a quick pang/diesel noise when starting out. Dealers have said "normal engine sound, I first heard the noise @ 1k miles. After alot of trips to dealers/lawyer I gave up, hoping that it is really normal.
    Also windshield makes snapping
    noise in cold temps. dealers removed windshield and replaced
    weather stripping twice, didn't
    work, gotta live with that also. A few times drivers side power window has stopped working. Occasionally radio
    volume goes up or down on its
    own and sometimes chiming noise
    continues even after I remove my key from the ignition. I'll
    probably trade soon, so watch
    the car lots, it literally looks and drives like new!!
  • Wiseone2 - I have an LE purchased around the same time as yours and have similar miles on it. I don't have any "pang/diesel noise when starting out" nor any windshield or other noises.

    I think you need to try a different dealer while it is still under warranty. These are not normal things for a Pathfinder.
  • wiseone2wiseone2 Posts: 15
    I've been to 3 diff. dealers
    since 2002. All pretty much
    say, no check engine light, no
    problem. I drove a new 03 pathy and I heard the exact noise that convinced me to give
    up, it may be the ABS doing a
    self check, I really don't know. As for everything else,
    I just haven't got the time to
    keep taking it in. I've had gas cap problems, found paint
    overspray on the vehicle the
    1st time I washed it and the
    pathfinder decals on the roof
    rack, 1 side kept peeling off.
    Finally had to remove both.
    Tried to enact Wisconsin lemon
    law, Nissan refused to comply,
    Lawyer said he would take the
    case "several years of litigation" only after I invest
    $$ in finding out exact problem. So it runs and drives
    and Nissan wins, I lose and so
    will any future owners.
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