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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair
So far, this is the most annoying problem on the Pathy. There is a TSB on it. Can one of the members post it here for everyone's sake. Thanks.
Oh yeah, I'm first here.
Oh yeah, I'm first here.
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NTB/TSB for shimmy by smithmd Jan 05, 2001 (03:20 pm)
Here is everything about the shimmy. I found my old post. I'd actually saved it in a text file on my PC just-in-case. I'm still shimmy free. Now the other old post:
I just got the Nissan Service Bulletin I had
mentioned. It's 11 pages and includes and lot of
stuff, so I won't attempt to reproduce it on this
page. I will say that on the flow chart, the first
question is, "Is this vehicle equipped with Nissan
OEM wheels and tires?" If the answer is no, such
as if you have already replaced the tires, the flow
chart states, "This Technical Service Bulletin and
Nissan Warranty Coverage do not address vibration
that can be caused by after market products or
modifications." Even though you've replaced your
tires already, you might ask your tech to print you
off a copy of this NTB.
I remember some folks talking about having their
wheels chromed. The next question in the flow
chart is, "Are the Nissan OEM wheels aftermarket
chrome plated?" If the answer to this question is
yes, you get the same response as the guy that has
already replaced his tires.
Nissan Service Bulletin
Classification: ST99-001
Reference: NTB00-061
Date: July 18, 2000
1999.5-2001 Pathfinder steering and/or body
vibration
Applied Vehicles: 1999.5-2001 Pathfinder (R50)
Service Information
If a 1999.5-2001 Pathfinder exhibits steering
and/or body vibration while driven (without
braking) at speeds between 60 and 70 MPH, the
cause(s) may be:
- Road input (road surface imperfections)
- Out-of-balance front or rear tires/wheels
- Insufficient steering rack sliding force
adjustment
- Tire flat spotting
- Excessive tire Radial Force Variations (RFV)
The last part (RFV) is where they look to index or
match balance your tires and if that still doesn't
work, they replace your tires.
Hope this helps.
Copied without permision - I hope no one is offended.
David
I'm at 3400 ft in Calgary, but the truck was in my heated garage. It also hadn't been used for a few days and the weather had warmed up considerably. I'm wondering if maybe it was just condensation in the tank? Anybody else have this problem?
If you are indeed worried about condensation, then try dry gas. I had that same issue with my 300ZX TT and dry gas worked beautifully!
Cheers!
Anybody with the shop manual:
What does it say about the adjuster for the rear drum brakes? In post #503 in the main area, meca2 talks about turning this star-shaped wheel inside an access hole to tighten the brakes. I did that, but now it seems like my parking brakes are too tight, and don't disengage all the way! Is there any way to undo this? Please say yes, and tell me how!
thanks,
Howie
So I brought it to the dealer, and the mechanic simply loosened it by pushing in on the retaining lever by using a thin, bent screwdriver. As he released the lever, he was able to ratchet the star wheel back notch by notch.
It worked, and when he was done my wheels spun freely once again. Of course, now the pads are a lot closer to the drum than they were before, and that translates into less travel before the brakes engage (feels better).
Moral of the story: if you do adjust the brakes manually, do not overtighten the self-adjuster wheel! If you do, you'll have to do the thing with the small screwdrivers.
Or, see meca2's post in the main area. There's a way to adjust the brake under the lever.
BTW, the mechanic told me that the self-adjuster mechanism works by pulling the parking brake lever. It doesn't work on the back-up principle like other cars.
I can't wait until my manual gets here.
--Howie
sure other cars. The Purolater book says to use L14612 and does not show
a Pureone filter for the PF engine. I compared the two at the auto parts store
the L14612 has a spring and what looks like a extra bypass valve or something
that the PL14620 does not have. I have disassemble filters from my other
Nissan cars I've had over the years and have never found any metal or anything else
in them. I would be concerned about oil flow through the filters?? Bigger is some-
times not better!!.........Just a thought.....Steve
Both the Pathfinder & Maxima use the same oil filter (OEM: 15208-9e000, AC-Delco: PF2057, Motorcraft: FL-821, Mobil 1: M1-110, Deutsch: D370, Bosch: 3323, Fram: PH7317, K&N: HP-1010, Luberfinder: PH-2867, etc) ONLY Purolator is listing two different filters, the L14612 for the PF and L14620 for the Maxima. The L14620 (and PureOne PL14620) is actually the same size as the genuine Nissan 15208-9e000. I have no idea why they list the L14612 for the PF. Any thoughts? TIA
I'm changing out the water pump on an '86 6 cyl pathfinder in a day or two and while I'm at it I'm going to change out the timing belt as well, since it has to be removed to reach the pump . I can't find a repair manual anywhere so I don't know what to align the valve gear timing marks up with. Does anyone have an answer. Thanks ------------ Jeff
The only problem that I have now is that the gas gage goes down at the same rate that the tachometer goes up. They must be linked.
If you "pump: does the peddle furm-up? Try adjusting the rear brakes. The procedure
might not be in the manual.
the Frontier uses the same.
iveydude: The New Car Smell several have commented about it. Will
go away 1k or a month or so. Cheers
Bob
The dealer wanted $130 for the lens and $200 for labor.
I figured I could do it myself, it looks rather easy. Is it? Any suggestions or helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
--Howie
BOY AM I BOMBED OUT OVER THIS.
p..
I guess now I know why I got this vehicle for invoice.
Will keep you posted.
--Howie
P.S. You can e-mail me back directly if you wish. jambazi@earthlink.net
engine this summer could try 10W/30 instead of 5W/30. 10W/30 can
be used from -18C ( 0 F ) and higher. jambazi: is this in your FAQ's?
Is anyone with engine oil leaks using syn oil? Steve
Is it OK to switch back to 5w-30 after using 10w-30 during summer? Does the service manual says anything about this? Thanks in advance for your time.-AW
$0.02
Thanks for your reply. I have another Q for you, would you use 10w-30 conventional oil during summer on a 01'PF w/only 3,500k? Thanks in advance. -AW
it is generally recommended that one break an engine in on conventional oil before switching over to synthetics, whose only major attraction is increased cold weather performance.
Thanks for your replies! We get only a few 90+ deg F days here in Denver, CO during the summer months so I was thinking Syn 10w-30 (May-Sep approx.) and then switching back to Syn 5w-30 (Oct-Apr) OR because Nissan's recommendation, 5w-30 (Syn) all year around. I guess I have a decision to make on the next oil change... Another decision I have to make is whether to switch to Syn on the next oil change at approx. 3,750m or wait 10,000m as it was recommended by the dealer's tech. Any input to help me make the right decision is always welcome.-cheers, AW
I know for me, I will switch shortly because I will be towing in hot weather. (and I will be taking other precautions beyond just synth oil)
YMMV.
Thanks for your input. Your opinion makes a lot sense. I think I better wait at least 10,000 miles like it was suggested by the dealer.-AW
Do you know if Porsches, Vettes, etc still require a break-in period even though their engines are "blue printed"?