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2011 VW Jetta Stalls

clauvwhateclauvwhate Member Posts: 3
edited January 2018 in Volkswagen
I purchased a VW Jetta 2011 with 15,000 and the morning after I bough it stopped while I was driving it, as it did 6 randomly times after that.
The 1 time I took it to the dealer but as there were no codes shown they gave it back to us (not trusting what I was saying)
The 2nd time they said Oh! it must be the gas pump, they replaced it.
The 3rd it happened to them as they were test driving it so they said Oh! it is the ignition switch, they replaced it.
The 4th time they said Oh! it is the battery cables that have a malfunction so they fixed it.
I just took it back because the VW Customer Care which does not seem to CARE about their customers did not give me the option to change the car for a same one that is not broken so we had no other option that taking it back.

Comments

  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    You bought a used 2011 with 15,000 miles correct? Sounds like the original owner had the stalling problem, couldn't get it fixed and traded it. Did you purchase it from a VW dealer? Was it VW certified? Complain all the way to the top.
    You state the problem happened the day after you bought it. A 2011 with 15,000 miles is still under warranty. Complain and complain some more. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.
    Good luck.
  • iorguiorgu Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 jetta with only 7000 miles on board . everything was OK untill 2 months ago when I start having problems starting it in the mornig when the engine is cold.
    I'am starting the car, and at the moment I release the brake pedal to move, the car abruptuly jumps. Is doing that only when the engine is cold. Anyone experience this problem? I was told by the people from the service that is normal, and I have to let it warm for a few minutes. I am wondering how come it didn't do that for 7 months and suddenly I have to warm up the car in the morning , especialy now, in the summer??!!
  • mamx4mamx4 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2006 Jetta TDI with 145,000 trouble free miles. Over the last 5 or 6 months, when driving down the road, it has started stumbling like it is going to die when I have been travelling at a constant speed and first let off the throttle to slow down. I am travelling in New Mexico in the mountains and it seems to be much worse. Again it has never died, but even with the cruise on, if it starts to slow down it stumbles. Any ideas? For what it may be worth, over the last 5 or 6 months, my mileage has gone from 40-42 to 34-36?!?!?!? Is this also indicative of the same problem or something else ready to rear it's head? I do all PM either myself or take it to my German Autokraft mechanic (yes, he is really German). Do my own oil changes and use Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. Transmission flush, filter and fluid with Royal Purple (yes, I talked to the VW engineers about using this in the 6 speed transmission and they gave their blessing). I live out in the country on a gravel road and change the air filter much more often than required because of that. I do not wish to be stranded someplace, so if anyone has some good ideas, I will fix it myself or take it to my German Autokraft mechanic that works on our VWs and Opel.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If you have not replaced the fuel-filter lately, it would not hurt to start with that. If you got a batch of bad fuel, the filter may be plugging up.

    Then, hook your car up to VAGCOM to check your IQ (Injection Quality)

    You can also use VAGCOM (with buddy driving) to monitor some of the critical sensors while the problem is happening.

    You may find the MAF sensor is sending goofy signals to the computer.

    Good luck.
  • carimaricarimari Member Posts: 8
    Hi..

    My car is doing the same thing... stalling at varied times. The first time it happened was two weeks ago when I was at the drive in. I had my car on the entire time, I turned the car off and then turned it back on without a problem - went to move the car and it died. I thought it was the battery - but i could start the car with no problem - but then it would die. It did this for about 35 minutes and then I prayed all the way home and I got there. The next day my car was fine, two weeks later it does it again with my kids. It stalled in the intersection. I was able to get it going, but stalled again.. got it to Auto Zone - battery is fine, but the problem kept happening and the time between the stalls grew less and less - finally I had the car towed. Dealership can't find a problem- they had it for two and half days. I picked up the car this morning and someone else had brought their car in for the same issue. PLEASE anyone tell me what is wrong. I can't afford to keep renting a car.
  • clauvwhateclauvwhate Member Posts: 3
    Well I have brought the car to the dealership more than 5 times and they keep replacing things, still happening the same. Nobody knows what is going on. Mine is under warranty but still it is very scary!!!!! I wish I could help you but this is something very mysterious. Just so you know it is not the battery, not the ignition switch, not the gas pump, not the battery cables. Do not pay for any of these repairs. The dealership has driven my car for 100 to 200 miles and it has happened the same to them while test driving it (3 times) and still they did not solve the problem. I could only tell you to sell the car!
  • carimaricarimari Member Posts: 8
    EVERYONE that has had this problem needs to call Volkswagen Customer Care Center. I have just reported this as an issue and the more people that let me know they are not alone - they will take a closer look *fingers crossed* 1-800-822-8987

    My Case Number is #120386129.

    Please let me know if you find out anything.

    FYI Someone nice replied to me and said they had the same issue and then to the car went to a non-dealer mechanic and they found the problem to be: It was an ignition module that plugs in behind the ignition switch. It is located in the steering column and is about a hundred buck to have it done including the part.
  • clauvwhateclauvwhate Member Posts: 3
    I have a case opened since March, my case even reached the EXECUTIVE LEVEL! And the only option they give me is to trade it in which I am going to do, for another make, I am not buying any other VW EVER in my life!
  • carimaricarimari Member Posts: 8
    Quick Question - can you tell me what dealership - city and state you have had your car at.. I would like my VW dealer to contact yours VW dealer, if possible. My car is out of warranty and the service guy was asking about my battery (which is fully charged).

    Thanks!
  • laurafr13laurafr13 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find a solution to your problem? My friend's 2012 Jetta is doing the same thing and she has taken it to 2 dealers now and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem yet.
  • carinq1carinq1 Member Posts: 2
    Please share this fix with your dealer or anyone who has this problem. It is a SOFTWARE UPDATE that will fix the stall issue.

    My story:
    I purchased a 2011 VW Jetta SE manual (gas not diesel) in July 2011. Up until May 2014 I didn't have any issues. It began to sputter and rev the rpm's by itself and would eventually stall completely. This happened numerous times on the highway, pulling into a parking space, cruising at around 30 mph. I could feel it before it happened. The car would shudder and I would glance down at the speedometer and it would go down to 0 on RPM's and MPH. Luckily each time I would just throw it into neutral and be able to start the car back up without freaking out and hitting another car.

    After 5 different trips to the dealer the issue was finally solved.

    After $700 of extended warranty visits ($100/visit) and not necessary repairs (camshaft sensor, oil change, throttle valve cleaning, fuel injection service) the car was fixed.

    The final fix was a software update. Yes, a software update. Nothing had to be changed on my car and no repairs of parts were needed. This relay went on for 2 months. All the while getting multiple loaner cars, missing work, stalling on the highway and putting myself and others lives at risk.

    The dealer finally called VW Technical Assistance and they sent them a software update tor remedy the stall issue. This is only after having myself call VW Customer Care because my car was not getting fixed.
  • senahidsenahid Member Posts: 5
    Yesterday my jetta SE 2011 2.5 engine would not start. Used jump box and it started. I took it to autozone and tested battery and it says BAD BATTERY. I was driving a car for two hours and tested battery again and autozone says it is GOOD BATTERY. Today(weather was warm) car started immediately but on the way to work the car suddenly would not accelerate(it was not shifting gears as if something is blocking it )and I luckly reached home at slow speed.I believe that is called STALLING PROBLEM if i am not mistaking? There is no any lights on dashboard. I believe i found the fix; SOFTWARE UPDATE. May I ask if software update has to be done by dealer and if it worked for many of you? Thank you
  • senahidsenahid Member Posts: 5
    I just want to add that my JETTA is automatic. I do not know if that makes any difference.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    When you say "wouldn't start" do you mean wouldn't CRANK, or do you mean crank and crank but the engine would not catch?

    If it wouldn't crank and you needed a jump to get the engine to spin over, then you have some kind of charging system problem. If the voltage drops in your car while driving, this upsets any number of computers and modules in the car and would affect how the car runs.

    First thing I'd do is fully charge the battery on a charger, and then have the charging system tested. You can't reallyl do any good diagnosis unless you have a fully operating charging system.
  • senahidsenahid Member Posts: 5
    Yes. I meant would not crank. It was cold morning when car would not crank but it cranked with jump box. So you think that weak battery could be causing this problem? I will have it charged at autozone. Is it possible that spark plugs could be bad of fuel pump ? I scanned the car and got these codes: Throttle control airflow at idle too low p3078, invalid data received from body control module U0422, ECM power relay load circuit(J271)ENERGIZED PERFORMANCE TOO EARLY P068A.
    Those are codes showing on scanner. I cleared them but car is doing same thing. However there is no any light on on dashboard. How do you test charging system ? Do you mean alternator and battery together.
  • senahidsenahid Member Posts: 5
    I just want to add that car is running smoothly once it cranks. But when I start driving it it does not want to accelerate; it shakes when it tries to shift gear. I feel transmission is fine. It is something related to power since it is not powerfull enough to accelerate therefore it starts shaking and can not shift.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2018
    Yes, I think you need to start with a fully charged battery--not a jump started battery. The charging system can be roughly checked with a simple voltmeter, apply the leads to each of the battery posts and seeing if it reads proper voltage when you rev up the engine--at least in the high 13V area or low 14V.

    With a weak battery or erratic charging system, your car might throw all kinds of codes and may not run properly

    So get this done before you start chasing vacuum leaks, throttle body issues, or ECM problems.
  • senahidsenahid Member Posts: 5
    Oki. I will do this today. I will let you know if worked. Thank you
  • CoudryCoudry Member Posts: 1
    I have a VW Jetta 2011 2.5l with 147 000km on it.
    Been driving it for about 4 years now. Couple of weeks ago car stalled on the highway in traffic while shifting between 1st and 2nd second gear. Was able to just turn key and start car again. Last week.. same thing happened.. stalled while shifting gears and this time it wouldn't start. Brought it to the garage..700$later.. replaced spark plugs and both knock sensors and did a bunch of tests and they still don't know what the issue is. Did someone have similar issues. About to scrap car cuz garage said the engine can't be fixed.
  • carinq1carinq1 Member Posts: 2
    edited December 2020
    This was me years ago but the issue came back.

    Replace the camshaft position sensor. **Please note I mentioned camshaft position sensor the first post but it was the crankshaft position sensor. If the dealer had only changed the camshaft position sensor long ago I would not have had issues for nearly 7 years. I bought one at AutoZone and it's been running like new since. I did also replace Spark Plugs and Igniton coils at the same time as well. I am at 145,000 miles currently and it's been running like new for two months now. My issues cropped up every summer since my initial post and they would kinda go away. This past summer it got even worse. I wasn't able to start the car (would crank but no start), stalling nearly at every light, surging RPM's nearly all the time.

    After all these items were replaced I did have to clear the codes with a ODB reader. It has started every time and no issues as previously reported.

    https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/camshaft-position-sensor/duralast-new-camshaft-position-sensor-su8885/793848_0_0

    My fault codes were as follows:
    P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Single Sensor
    P0011 - Generic
    P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor
    carinq1 said:

    Please share this fix with your dealer or anyone who has this problem. It is a SOFTWARE UPDATE that will fix the stall issue.

    My story:
    I purchased a 2011 VW Jetta SE manual (gas not diesel) in July 2011. Up until May 2014 I didn't have any issues. It began to sputter and rev the rpm's by itself and would eventually stall completely. This happened numerous times on the highway, pulling into a parking space, cruising at around 30 mph. I could feel it before it happened. The car would shudder and I would glance down at the speedometer and it would go down to 0 on RPM's and MPH. Luckily each time I would just throw it into neutral and be able to start the car back up without freaking out and hitting another car.

    After 5 different trips to the dealer the issue was finally solved.

    After $700 of extended warranty visits ($100/visit) and not necessary repairs (camshaft sensor, oil change, throttle valve cleaning, fuel injection service) the car was fixed.

    The final fix was a software update. Yes, a software update. Nothing had to be changed on my car and no repairs of parts were needed. This relay went on for 2 months. All the while getting multiple loaner cars, missing work, stalling on the highway and putting myself and others lives at risk.

    The dealer finally called VW Technical Assistance and they sent them a software update tor remedy the stall issue. This is only after having myself call VW Customer Care because my car was not getting fixed.

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,799
    carinq1 said:

    This was me years ago but the issue came back.

    Replace the camshaft position sensor. **Please note I mentioned camshaft position sensor the first post but it was the crankshaft position sensor. If the dealer had only changed the camshaft position sensor long ago I would not have had issues for nearly 7 years. I bought one at AutoZone and it's been running like new since. I did also replace Spark Plugs and Igniton coils at the same time as well. I am at 145,000 miles currently and it's been running like new for two months now. My issues cropped up every summer since my initial post and they would kinda go away. This past summer it got even worse. I wasn't able to start the car (would crank but no start), stalling nearly at every light, surging RPM's nearly all the time.

    I have written about these kinds of scenarios many times over the last ten years and being given an answer because that is what fixed another car is really just a guess if someone tries to apply it to another car. Your description about how "the problem" cropped up every summer suggests that the stalling was not only random in nature it was non existent for periods of time. As a technician who would invest time to accurately diagnose these kinds of failures work that was done in the past isn't relevant towards analyzing what is going on now. The only things that are relevant are what can be tested and proven and if it doesn't display the symptom then no progress is likely to be made during that round of testing.
    carinq1 said:


    After all these items were replaced I did have to clear the codes with a ODB reader. It has started every time and no issues as previously reported.

    My fault codes were as follows:
    P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Single Sensor
    P0011 - Generic
    P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor

    These are pretty common codes and the camshaft sensor is a part that does have a fair percentage of failures. Dealer techs have seen this code many times and would have very little trouble solving it. Were these the only codes that ever set with or without the engine stalling over the last six years? Or is it more likely that this was just another problem that could generate the same symptom (engine stalling) ?

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