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2011 VW Jetta Stalls
clauvwhate
Member Posts: 3
I purchased a VW Jetta 2011 with 15,000 and the morning after I bough it stopped while I was driving it, as it did 6 randomly times after that.
The 1 time I took it to the dealer but as there were no codes shown they gave it back to us (not trusting what I was saying)
The 2nd time they said Oh! it must be the gas pump, they replaced it.
The 3rd it happened to them as they were test driving it so they said Oh! it is the ignition switch, they replaced it.
The 4th time they said Oh! it is the battery cables that have a malfunction so they fixed it.
I just took it back because the VW Customer Care which does not seem to CARE about their customers did not give me the option to change the car for a same one that is not broken so we had no other option that taking it back.
The 1 time I took it to the dealer but as there were no codes shown they gave it back to us (not trusting what I was saying)
The 2nd time they said Oh! it must be the gas pump, they replaced it.
The 3rd it happened to them as they were test driving it so they said Oh! it is the ignition switch, they replaced it.
The 4th time they said Oh! it is the battery cables that have a malfunction so they fixed it.
I just took it back because the VW Customer Care which does not seem to CARE about their customers did not give me the option to change the car for a same one that is not broken so we had no other option that taking it back.
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Comments
You state the problem happened the day after you bought it. A 2011 with 15,000 miles is still under warranty. Complain and complain some more. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.
Good luck.
I'am starting the car, and at the moment I release the brake pedal to move, the car abruptuly jumps. Is doing that only when the engine is cold. Anyone experience this problem? I was told by the people from the service that is normal, and I have to let it warm for a few minutes. I am wondering how come it didn't do that for 7 months and suddenly I have to warm up the car in the morning , especialy now, in the summer??!!
Then, hook your car up to VAGCOM to check your IQ (Injection Quality)
You can also use VAGCOM (with buddy driving) to monitor some of the critical sensors while the problem is happening.
You may find the MAF sensor is sending goofy signals to the computer.
Good luck.
My car is doing the same thing... stalling at varied times. The first time it happened was two weeks ago when I was at the drive in. I had my car on the entire time, I turned the car off and then turned it back on without a problem - went to move the car and it died. I thought it was the battery - but i could start the car with no problem - but then it would die. It did this for about 35 minutes and then I prayed all the way home and I got there. The next day my car was fine, two weeks later it does it again with my kids. It stalled in the intersection. I was able to get it going, but stalled again.. got it to Auto Zone - battery is fine, but the problem kept happening and the time between the stalls grew less and less - finally I had the car towed. Dealership can't find a problem- they had it for two and half days. I picked up the car this morning and someone else had brought their car in for the same issue. PLEASE anyone tell me what is wrong. I can't afford to keep renting a car.
My Case Number is #120386129.
Please let me know if you find out anything.
FYI Someone nice replied to me and said they had the same issue and then to the car went to a non-dealer mechanic and they found the problem to be: It was an ignition module that plugs in behind the ignition switch. It is located in the steering column and is about a hundred buck to have it done including the part.
Thanks!
My story:
I purchased a 2011 VW Jetta SE manual (gas not diesel) in July 2011. Up until May 2014 I didn't have any issues. It began to sputter and rev the rpm's by itself and would eventually stall completely. This happened numerous times on the highway, pulling into a parking space, cruising at around 30 mph. I could feel it before it happened. The car would shudder and I would glance down at the speedometer and it would go down to 0 on RPM's and MPH. Luckily each time I would just throw it into neutral and be able to start the car back up without freaking out and hitting another car.
After 5 different trips to the dealer the issue was finally solved.
After $700 of extended warranty visits ($100/visit) and not necessary repairs (camshaft sensor, oil change, throttle valve cleaning, fuel injection service) the car was fixed.
The final fix was a software update. Yes, a software update. Nothing had to be changed on my car and no repairs of parts were needed. This relay went on for 2 months. All the while getting multiple loaner cars, missing work, stalling on the highway and putting myself and others lives at risk.
The dealer finally called VW Technical Assistance and they sent them a software update tor remedy the stall issue. This is only after having myself call VW Customer Care because my car was not getting fixed.
If it wouldn't crank and you needed a jump to get the engine to spin over, then you have some kind of charging system problem. If the voltage drops in your car while driving, this upsets any number of computers and modules in the car and would affect how the car runs.
First thing I'd do is fully charge the battery on a charger, and then have the charging system tested. You can't reallyl do any good diagnosis unless you have a fully operating charging system.
Those are codes showing on scanner. I cleared them but car is doing same thing. However there is no any light on on dashboard. How do you test charging system ? Do you mean alternator and battery together.
With a weak battery or erratic charging system, your car might throw all kinds of codes and may not run properly
So get this done before you start chasing vacuum leaks, throttle body issues, or ECM problems.
Been driving it for about 4 years now. Couple of weeks ago car stalled on the highway in traffic while shifting between 1st and 2nd second gear. Was able to just turn key and start car again. Last week.. same thing happened.. stalled while shifting gears and this time it wouldn't start. Brought it to the garage..700$later.. replaced spark plugs and both knock sensors and did a bunch of tests and they still don't know what the issue is. Did someone have similar issues. About to scrap car cuz garage said the engine can't be fixed.
Replace the camshaft position sensor. **Please note I mentioned camshaft position sensor the first post but it was the crankshaft position sensor. If the dealer had only changed the camshaft position sensor long ago I would not have had issues for nearly 7 years. I bought one at AutoZone and it's been running like new since. I did also replace Spark Plugs and Igniton coils at the same time as well. I am at 145,000 miles currently and it's been running like new for two months now. My issues cropped up every summer since my initial post and they would kinda go away. This past summer it got even worse. I wasn't able to start the car (would crank but no start), stalling nearly at every light, surging RPM's nearly all the time.
After all these items were replaced I did have to clear the codes with a ODB reader. It has started every time and no issues as previously reported.
https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/camshaft-position-sensor/duralast-new-camshaft-position-sensor-su8885/793848_0_0
My fault codes were as follows:
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Single Sensor
P0011 - Generic
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor