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2013 Ford Escape

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Comments

  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    IMHO, it's a personal thing. Our Explorer has just high and low. I can only deal with high for about 3 minutes. My wife, OTOH, will run the high setting all day long.
  • 1 is crazy hot for me, maybe if we lived in Alaska I might set it on 2... and yes, they wife goes higher, and will leave it on.
  • same here. wife can sit on a 5 and still thinks its not working right. her volvo s80 has three settings: pants on fire, tattoo my butt, and electric chair. i just turn off the seat warmer when i drive her car. it hasn't really been cold enough here in new england to use the seat warners anyway.
  • I too have a navigation problem, and by resetting the system instructed on the phone number by Ford detroit , it did not fix the system, and is gettibg worse as we we go along. It some times places me in an entire different area!
    It some time takes a good 15 to miles before the GPS starts to work.
    In the beginning, it took me to area in the Mountains, that had no roads, or they wher not paved! I should have kept my chevy Equnoix. And the gas tank isd too small!
  • Just brought the Escape into the dealer & got a rental from Enterprise. What a piece of junk the rental is compared to the Escape, but hey, at least it won't catch fire right!
  • http://www.nasdaq.co...86#.UMYp5YYQ4jw

    Ford Motor Produces Fix In Voluntary Safety Recall Of 2013 Escapes, 2013 Fusions

    (RTTNews.com) - Ford Motor Co. (F) announced a corrective action to address potential engine overheating that could result in engine fires in SE and SEL models of the 2013 Ford Escape and Ford Fusion models equipped with 1.6-liter engines. The vehicles were subjects of a voluntary safety recall announced November 30.
    Ford said that to fix the condition, it will make softwarePosted Image updates to the cooling system of the 1.6-liter engine available in the SE and SEL models of the 2013 Ford Escape and 2013 Ford Fusion.
    The software updates will better manage engine temperatures during a unique overheating condition that could occur under unique operating conditions. The original cooling system designPosted Image was not able to address a loss of coolant system pressure under certain operating conditions, which could lead to a vehicle fire while the engine was running, the company said.
    Ford stated that it is now working to deliver the software and repair procedure to its dealers. The company will begin notifying customers so they can schedule service appointments with dealers.
    Beginning early next week, customers will be able to get the software update at their dealer.
    Until the cooling software is updated, customers driving 2013 Escape vehicles equipped with the 1.6-liter engine and 2013 Fusion models equipped with the 1.6-liter engine have been advised to contact their dealer to arrange for alternative transportation at no charge, the company said.
    The company noted that 2013 Escapes equipped with 2.0-liter and the 2.5-liter engines are unaffected. 2013 Fusions equipped with the 2.5-liter and hybrid engines are also unaffected - as are all Titanium models.
    For comments and feedback: contact [email protected]
    http://www.rttnews.com
  • The software updates will better manage engine temperatures during a unique overheating condition that could occur under unique operating conditions. The original cooling system design was not able to address a loss of coolant system pressure under certain operating conditions, which could lead to a vehicle fire while the engine was running, the company said.

    Ummm, Ya, Ummmm, WHAT!!??!!??!!
  • It surprises me that some of you doubt that this car *can* get better fuel economy than you are experiencing. Where, when, how, what fuel, etc. all effect fuel economy. I have no trouble believing you get 19-22, but I have easily been achieving 25mpg or better for every tank so far. In fact, with over 4800 miles on my 2013 2.0l 4WD, I'm getting 27-29 routinely!

    The overall indicated fuel economy (I never reset Trip 2's information) is now climbing over 26.1 from around 25.8.
  • I have not had my Escape Titanium long (less than 2 weeks) but I've seen the Sync lock-up problem twice and, being the computer guy I am, went looking for possible causes:

    1) If a second, unregistered blue tooth device is in the car, guaranteed it will mess up MySync at some time during the trip.

    2) If you start the car, then turn it off before MySync loads completely, then turn the car right back on, MySync will often lock.

    To get the problems cleared, I have to turn off the engine, get out of the car, and leave it alone until the accessory system shuts completely off, about 5 minutes.

    In other words, MySync is acting just like Microsoft windows :-)
  • What kinda gas do you use and which region do you live at? Curious. Like i said i love the car. If i could get that gas mpg, this would be the best car ever. I had ford service check it. Now at 3200mpg. Best ive seen with some restraint is 23mpg. 25mpg would be a dream.

    Wonder how much before i get to break it in and how much it would really improve mpg.

    Started an expt of switching to premium 92octane. Gonna do an N of three and actually drive the same routes for te next few weeks. See if there is any change. That 23mpg was the first 92 octane fill up. My 86 octane fill ups were 19-22mpg with restraint.
  • cbc410cbc410 Posts: 20
    What kind of driving do you do: % city, $ highway. Is the city driving in a lot of traffic and lights, is it all flat, are your trips mostly short or long? My mileage is significantly worse in the city-14-16 mpg and my never reset trip 2 from the time I bought the car is 19.3 mpg. I do live in somewhat hilly terrain and do short trips but I drive very conservatively and get the Good Eco Driver message. I would love the car if it did better in mileage.
  • I drive about 40/60 city/highway. It's in western virginia, mostly between the Blue Ridge and Appalachians, hilly rural roads, interstate 81, and in downtown Harrisonburg, VA. Admittedly, my 'city' driving isn't New York, DC, or downtown Chicago-like (been in all three, and this is far less congested). However, downtown Harrisonburg, traveling light-to-light, 35 mph max, watching the freshly reset AVG economy readout, I see no less than 17 mpg (17.5, actually seems hard to go under). In town it *does* drop rapidly to under 19 from the 25-28 range (it seems to start off wherever it left off just prior to the 'reset'). It absolutely *loves* highway cruising (I usually travel 65, in the 70 mph speed limited areas). Even when I traveled for a few tanks at the 70-75, I still saw 24-25 mpg routinely.

    My 'regular' trips tend to be longer (30+ minutes), starting in Broadway, VA, traveling around 5 miles from a rural town (with stoplights and hillside starts- I lose quite a bit of fuel economy here..) to the interstate. Then it's 15 miles or so to Harrisonburg (sometimes on down to Weyer's Cave, Staunton, or Waynesboro), at 65 mph. Then off the interstate, into that stoplight / holiday / college / university traffic (another place that I watch the numbers drop).

    I have used the regular E10 (87 octane) fuel for most of the time I've had this Escape, and that's what the majority of the 25-26 mpg results were from. I can't say for sure whether it's breaking in that's responsible for the recent increase to 27-29 mpg per tank or my switching to a local non-ethanol station's 73 octane straight gasoline fuel (3 fills), but I just filled my most recent tank with the cheap (MUCH cheaper!) Walmart E10 87 again, so I may find out soon..

    Full disclosure- I've been using the indicated fuel economy from the DIC for my tracking purposes. I initially hand calculated the first 5 tanks or so, and all 5 were within .7 mpg of the indicated reading from the car. That says that my last 29 mpg tank may've actually been closer to 28 (or 30- but more likely less rather than more). Unfortunately, I don't buy into the hand-calculated-is-better-than-DIC thing any more. Different pumps shut off at different times, and even the same pump will shut off differently, for a variety of reasons. That means that there's a lot of variability built into the hand calculations. I'm not saying that the car's readout is guaranteed accurate, just that the fact that they are as close as they are means that neither is better than the other..
  • I'm in northern Virginia, so a little more congested. Getting around 24-25 mpg on average. Went to PA this past weekend, longest trip in the new Escape since I have owned it. Fun to drive, At around 70mph I'm seeing 25-26 mpg. I am not a conservative driver. After an initial break-in period, I treat my transmissions exactly how I like to drive. Every car I have owned has lasted well over 200,000 miles with good maintenance. I expect nothing less from this vehicle. Thank my lucky stars I got the Titanium and not the 1.6.
  • Sadly, I have had my new Escape in for service multiple times since our purchase in October. The MyTouch was extremely buggy, which was improved though not solved by the software update. The dealer had replaced the MyTouch before the update came out (didn't help). Now, I got a warning light on my BLIS system and was told not to rely on it in traffic until the MyTouch system, which apparently much of the technology runs through, is replaced again! I have had to have the car in to the dealer three times this week alone. Monday for a diagnostic, Tuesday for the MyTouch expert to diagnose it again (he only comes in twice a week) and now I have to take it back Thursday for the replacement. They definitely don't have all the bugs worked out of this system and I begin to fear I have a lemon! :sick:
  • Extremely helpful usafan1. Im gonna try non e10 fuel. This forum is 50/50 on the mpg. Wonder if there is a variability in production from ford. Live in seattle and it does get hilly. But i drive with much restraint. Will report numbers. Im hoping i break the 25mpg mark!
  • Ford Escape wins inaugural Car of the Year from Popular Mechanics
    Popular Mechanics has unveiled its 2013 Automotive Excellence Awards, and not only is the Ford Escape among its 10 best vehicles, for the first time ever the magazine names a Car of the Year and Escape is editors’ choice for the award. Escape earned the honor for being “an affordable vehicle that excels in multiple auto excellence categories,” for its “excellent engine options, abundance of technology and great price.” Reviewers pointed out that “Escape is freshly minted, with a solid new chassis shared with the European Ford Kuga. The driving experience feels like it’s two full generational leaps ahead of the old Escape.” Read the full report here.
  • I have been working on my cars for a very long time and have been restoring C2 (63-67) Corvettes for about 30 years. In July I bought a 2013 SE 1.6L escape with only the moon roof and Sync options and now have about 3100 miles on the car.

    Being old school about oil changes, I decided today to change the oil for the first time since I wanted to use a full synthetic oil and my preferred Baldwin oil filter (B7491).

    Changing the oil requires removal of the belly pan which is fastened with Torx screws at the front and rear and two 7mm screws on the sides of the pan. The oil drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan and easy to remove.

    The oil filter on the other hand is not! I tried using a metal strap type filter wrench and the filter would not budge. There is not much room to get the wrench on the filter and virtually no room to swing the wrench once it is on the filter.

    Although I didn't want to do it, I punched a hole on the filter to drain it and make an opening to insert a long screwdriver to try to move the filter. A 12 inch long screwdriver would not budge the filter. I finally got out a 16 inch pry bar and after punching another hole to get more room to swing the tool I finally got the filter to move a bit.

    All-in-all it took me over two hours to remove the oil filter and then clean up the oil that drains on all the hoses and pipes that are in the way.

    Unless you have a whole lot of patience I think I would let the dealer do the first oil change and wrestle with the factory gorilla installed oil filter.

    I have been reading the problems that others are having with the Escape and other than the clock going off time every so often I am glad to say I have had none of them. My around town gas mileage has consistently been in the 24-25 range and on a 500+ mile trip with the A/C on I was getting almost 32 on I-95 running a steady 70 mph.

    I have an el cheapo cell phone and it won't download the phone book but I really don't use it for anything but long distance and emergency calls anyway.

    Being used to my '66 Corvette and Mustang GT I was expecting the performance of the 1.6 Ecoboost to be lacking but it performs quite adequately. So far so good!
  • Nice post.
    I knew it was not all doom and gloom out there with the 1.6 Escape.
    The Fix is now in the Dealers hands.

    Just came back from my dealer, service manager said they will try to get to my car today to do the fix on the recall
    still got 3 hours left to go. I have yet to put 1 mile driving in my new Escape.

    Myself, the salesman, and the service mananger spoke at length about the fix, and I am sure that FORD has taken care of the problem.

    Will there be another problem ? I dont care FORD will fix it.

    Taking it 1 mile down the street is not a problem for me.
    I believe its not the end of the world that my Escape that has not seen my garage yet,
    After a 7 week wait to have it delivered and a 2 week wait to have a fix because of the recall.
    Its all good.

    Tri Coat White SEL
    Light Stone Leather
    Technology Package :)
  • You are right on the mark. The oil filter was way too tight on my 2.0. I got it off but I was really pissed. From what I've heard, the position of the oil filter on the 2.0 is better than the 1.6 so I feel for you.
  • I live in a state that does not require labelling gas pumps (ie E10). Depending on where you live you may be hard pressed to find a station with "pure" gas. Do not assume that if there's no label on the pump then the fuel is not E10.

    Here's my source http://www.fuel-testers.com/state_guide_ethanol_laws.html
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    Then I suggest spending $10 and getting one of these:

    image
  • I have several of those type of cap wrenches and none will fit the smaller FL-910-S or Baldwin filter. I also have a Snap-On three arm gripper type oil filter wrench that tightens the grippers as you turn the ratchet but it will not fit into the tight space either.

    As tight as the filter is against the electric fan shroud I am not sure if even a small 3/8" drive ratchet will fit in the space. Plus, with all the other stuff in the way getting enough swing on any type of wrench is going to be difficult.

    After working on it for as long as I did yesterday I was in no mood to go looking for a cap type wrench. It is done for a few months and the next time I go to the auto parts store I will look for one that will fit these filters.
  • I am mostly on the old Corvette forums where technical items predominate, hardly any mention of gas mileage or electronic gizmos.

    For those that may be interested the cap type filter wrench for the Motorcraft FL-910-S is 76 mm with 14 flutes. Advance Auto has them for about $6. I still don't know if they will fit into the limited space available with a wrench to operate them but I will try later.

    Unfortunately the Baldwin filters are different; they are 75mm and have 15 flutes. I managed to find a 75mm/15 flute cap wrench at Autozone that seems to fit the Baldwin but space is still an issue.

    Why do I use Baldwin filters? Several years ago fellow went out and bought every brand of filter he could get locally and cut them apart to inspect the construction and materials. His results are at the below link. Interesting reading.

    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

    Make sure you look at the Overview tab.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited December 2012
    Unless you have access to how the filter material was produced you may as well be cutting the cardboard box in half. That media information is proprietary and highly guarded at the paper mill (assuming you're looking at paper media).

    Looks like the same company that owns Baldwin makes Purolators too btw.
  • I re-read the study again and could find no reference to the technical aspects of the filter media other than the mention of which type of media the manufacturer is incorporating in their products.

    Baldwin is owned by Clarcor while Purolator is a joint venture between Bosch and Mann+Hummel both German companies. There is no connection I can find between the two parent companies.

    I am not suggesting that owners use Baldwin filters or any other filter on the market. I was introduced to them via the machine shop I use since they do a lot of machine work and re-builds of Marine, Stationary, over the road and off road diesel engines and hydraulic systems.

    The value of the filter study to me is pointing out some of the highly advertised and popular filters are not up to their advertising hype and some "premium" filters are not worth the extra price.

    But, to each his own after all it is their nickel.
  • YTube had a mechanic showing how to remove the filter. I used a strap wrench with a piece of tubing to extend the arm, it was hard to get it out even when it was off, due to the tubes under it. Also do not like the fact that because of the location it does not allow to put some fresh oil in the filter before putting the new filter back.
    What synthetic and number did you use on your Escape.
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    The author makes some good points, but loses credibility with two significant oversights:

    1) "Many filters have an anti-drainback valve to prevent dirty oil from draining back into the oil pan through the oil pump."

    He totally misses the point on this. The purpose of the anti-drainback valve is to assure oil flow at startup. Some engines require this valve, some don't. It depends on the orientation of the filter. If the mounting surface faces down, oil will drain from the filter when engine not running. At startup, full oil flow isn't achieved until the filter is filled. Chrysler learned this the hard way on the original slant six 170/225.

    2) "They also have a pressure relief or bypass valve that will allow oil to bypass the filter element in the event that it becomes too plugged to pass enough oil. This prevents engine oil starvation and the possibility of destroying the element, possibly causing pieces of it and the junk it filtered to enter the engine."

    A more important reason for this valve is to allow bypass during and shortly after cold start. (Oil viscosity is higher, and the crud accumulated on the outside of the filter media is more resistant to flow). Bypass occurs failrly often, making the LOCATION of the valve very important.

    It should be located at the base of the filter, allowing bypass to occur without oil flowing over the outside of the filter media ... scrubbing off and picking up contaminates as it does. Some filters have the bypass valve at the top, allowing the scrubbing to occur at cold start.
  • As mentioned in a prior post I did manage to find cap type filter wrenches but haven't tried to see if they will work as yet. I did see the Youtube videos and it looked like he was using a pair of slip joint pliers to remove the filter. I have a large enough pair to use but I certainly don't see how you could get them in the tight space.

    If the filter had not been installed super tight, I could have been successful with the strap type wrench which I did use once I managed to get the filter to move.

    The new filter is only on hand tight so maybe next time it will not be such a struggle.

    The factory calls for 5W-20 semi-synthetic but I prefer full synthetic especially in a turbo equipped engine. Coking of oil in the turbo after shutdown is discussed extensively on the net. Google is your friend!

    There is evidence that full synthetics have less tendency to coke or suffer thermal breakdown during heat soak after shut down.

    I am sure Ford tested this extensively and semi-synthetic works fine but for a few bucks more why not use a full synthetic for a little more reliability.

    I used Mobil 1. I generally use Valvoline for no particular reason but could not find large jugs of 5W-20 locally and individual quarts cost a lot more than the 5+ quart jugs.
  • I have to say, I'm sorry for ranting about peoples' fuel economy complaints. It's just that the majority of them are easily explainable (like UFO reports) by drivers, driver style, and driving conditions, rather than real problems with vehicles. But constant complaints about this topic (not saying that there aren't real issues for some, but far too often the car's working fine..) tend to overshadow real hard fact valid problems. Things like rear hatches that don't always latch properly, SYNC / MyFordTouch glitches, leaking roofs, engine fires, etc.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited December 2012
    Most of the recent mpg posts have been moved over to the 2013 Ford Escape Gas Mileage discussion.

    Even if happen to be getting "normal" gas mileage in your Escape, please pop over there and tell us, even if you don't think it's "postworthy".
  • LOL. Thanks, Steve. But I'll bet you've noticed by now that I'm relatively active on these two topics, especially about fuel economy. I appreciate you grouping them over there, and, as I said, I post because someone has to represent the large silent portion of owners that aren't seeing issues with fuel economy, lest all the others believe that ALL these cars return lower-than-rated numbers.
  • Update.... just got the car back from the dealer for the 1.6L engine fire recall on December 195h. They said they reporgrammed the liftgate to fix it.

    How is it now? Just as BAD. About 50% of the time it latches when it closes... the rest... you have to push it closed to latch it.

    Anyone at FORD able to fix this? Please???? I am paying for something new that is broken.

    Sign me... a very disatified Ford customer... and disatified means very unlikely to purchase OR recommend your products to anyone else... in any social media.
  • pzampzam Posts: 19
    I have the same liftgate problem. When it is warm and/or a window is open (to let the air pressure out), then it closes just fine. When it is cold with the windows up, it fails to completely latch unless given an extra push. I haven't had it serviced for this problem yet. I thought I'd wait for other problems before bringing it in for my 7th service visit in 4 months. The service manager says he hasn't seen the lift gate problem before, and they'd have to play with it to figure out how to fix it. Great. Odds of a first time fix are probably about zero.
  • I find that sometimes when I close the gate with the button on the gate itself it does not close completely but when close it from inside it latches properly. Sometimes when I get in car to start it while the hatch is closing it doesn't latch properly either.
  • That's interesting. My experience above, the first attempt was using the dash button. That's why I had to get out. The second (also failed) attempt was using the hatch button, but from midway open. For the third (successful) attempt I waited for it to fully open, then again used the hatch button. Those have so far been the only two times that it has failed to latch, but I have used all the various methods available to open / close the hatch successfully.
  • I just got back my escape SE 1.16 fixed due to the recall. Nevertheless, I noticed thant i can shift speed even in Drive mode. Before the selectShift speed was enabled only in S mode.
    Is it normal ?
  • We bought a 1.6 Escape last June. Sel the first one on the dealers lot. Purchase was for my wife. She loved the vehicle, great to drive and she got about 26mpg with it in mixed driving. It was in the shop 2 weeks for the first recall. They repaired the first 3 issues this time. Took it back for the 4th recall in which they reprogamed the computer supposedly to keep it from "catching fire should it overheat" While they were at it they found it was seeping oil from around the valve gaskets but did not have the parts to repair it. I have bought several new vehicles in my life and I can't remember having so many issues. All of the problems we had were around the 1.6 engine. No complaints about power or mileage only the fact that it wouldn't stay together. We ended up working with the dealer and traded up to titanium with a 2.0 engine. I have a 2011 f-150 and haven't had a moments issue with the ecoboost engine/ part of the reason we bought the 1.6. I am hoping That we won't have anymore isues. Time will tell. Even though the dealer gave me a great deal, it was an expense we weren't planning on.
  • The chrome around the air vent is reflecting in my side mirrors. It happens on both the driver and passenger sides. This is both annoying and dangerous. Has anyone else noticed this and do you have a solution? Putting your hand over the vent or putting the window down prevents the reflection from appearing. My thought is that if the chrome piece around the vent was black instead, it wouldn't reflect.

    I called Ford and they said to bring it my dealer. I've only had the car for 2 weeks now.
  • How are you seeing the reflection of the chrome in the side mirrors? I can't see anything inside my car with my side mirrors adjusted correctly. I'm trying to imagine this, but failing. Is there any way you could link to a picture somewhere of the problem?
  • When I put the side window down, I don't see it. So it must be a reflection onto the side window and then reflecting onto the side mirror. I will try to take a picture, but I'm not good with technology. I'm retired and rely on my adult kids to help me with such.
  • same here. wife can sit on a 5 and still thinks its not working right. her volvo s80 has three settings: pants on fire, tattoo my butt, and electric chair. i just turn off the seat warmer when i drive her car. it hasn't really been cold enough here in new england to use the seat warners anyway.

    This may be the funniest post of the year! Dang- there's coffee coming out of my nose!
  • pzampzam Posts: 19
    Yep. I see it too. It bothered me a little during the first couple of weeks I owned the car, but I've gotten used to it so that I don't even notice it now. I've just added it to my mental list of things that I would have thought someone noticed before the car hit the showrooms (although this bothers me a lot less than all of the bugs in the various electronics).
  • Mine exhibits the same behavior post recall and I must say that I found it useful in tonights snowathon.
  • We have a 2013 Ford Escape Titanium and are also experieinceing excessive fumes. We have the 2.0 Ecoboost engine. The longer you are idle the worse the fumes get. It is definitely a concern as I am in the vehicle commuting over 1 hour each way every day. My wife has been driving the vehicle since we bought it in July. I just started driving it last week and I noticed immediately that something was not right. I saw the comments on this site over the weekend and took the vehicle to our Ford dealer on Monday 12/31/12. The service writer said he had not heard of the problem and would check with his service manager today. I will keep you all posted.
  • I've had no such issue. Although, if you are idling, and you have the heat/ac on, you will be pulling in air from the outside which may contain exhaust fumes.
  • smellsfishysmellsfishy Posts: 7
    edited January 2013
    :lemon: Update on the exhaust smell in the 2013 escape.
    The vehicle has now been in for 5 weeks! The dealer is now saying the oil leak is due to a manufactured defect in the valve cover. The new valve cover has to be shipped from Poland to the U.S. before it can be shipped to Vancouver. They would not have one shipped direct. (great service). No idea when the parts would arrive. The engine recall issue cannot be addressed until this is fixed. Not impressed.
  • The exhaust smell is caused by the oil that leaked all over the engine. The fresh-air intake is located under the hood. If you are moving, the fumes are vented by the air flow, but if you are just sitting in traffic the fumes build up and get sucked in.
  • 2013 Ford Escape. Two weeks out and I got a screw in the side wall. There is no road hazard warranty on Continental tires when they are sold with a new vehicle. If you bought them as replacement tires there is a road hazard warranty. Ouch!
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    Two weeks out and I got a screw in the side wall.

    ...and that is Ford's fault how?
  • I didn't say it was Ford's fault. But it is interesting to know that road Hazard warranty is readily available from most tire manufacturers. Just not with new cars.
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