I've seen some products offered that are simply plastic or metal strips that attached to the roll bars and provide a slight outward bowing shape. I'm not sure if they're just for full soft tops but I would think they'd work for bikini tops as well. Check quadratec.com or even jcwhitney.com. Good luck.
Hello Chris, My name is Ian. I just happened to see your post on the problem with your '02 Jeep. I indeed have the same problem with my '03 Sahara. The dealer changed the Steering dampener, the shocks, and even had all tires rotated and balanced. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. Luckily the local dealer is very helpful. They are still trying to figure out what's going on.
Anyway, I did a google search and some one (who had the same problem) had the front drive shaft replaced and the problem is gone. So have you solved the shaking problem on your jeep yet?
Hello Will, I actually noticed that grinding noise on my 2003 Jeep, too. It is like that all the time. From what I heard, Chrysler put in a newer manual transmission since the year 2000 and everytime when we release the clutch, you will hear the grinding noise. It does not do any damage to your Jeep at all though. I think it's true because I have owned many manual transmission wranglers in the past; a '97 SE, a '98 Sahara, a '00 Sahara and now a '03 Sahara, the first two did not have that problem but the last two. Hope that helps.
I'm a new Jeep Wrangler owner and just bought a 1989 Wrangler. Gone there replaceing the shocks. I want to replace the Steering Damper but seems I can't get it off. Is there a trick to this, is it a bolt holding it to the tie rod or what?
im 17 and i just bought a grand cherokee limited. i went to shift it from 4x4 high to 4x4 low and wen i put it in drive it didnt move. does any1 hav any idea what im doin wrong? :confuse:
I have a Wrangler with the Command Trac 4x4 system. My understanding from the manual is that you have to be moving 2-3 mph when shifting into 4-Lo. The manual had some specific steps to follow if you want to shift into 4-Lo while not moving. I don't have my manual in front of me but I think it involved shutting off the engine. My dealer mentioned something about sometimes having to drive forward in 2-Hi for about 10 feet and then shifting into 4-Lo if nothing happens.
I also remember something about having to go back into 2-Hi and then shifting smoothly right into 4-Lo rather than stopping at 4-Hi but that may have been my wife's Liberty manual using Select Trac 4x4 system.
Sorry I can't answer your question clearly...just trying to give you some ideas. Good luck.
my 200 wrangler makes a terible clunking noise when 4 wheel low is engaged - also a slight ticking noise when in 2 wheel drive untill i hit about 40 mph- any ideas ?
Every 2 or 3 days i have to replace anti-freeze. I have replaced the thermostat, and the fan clutch. Where is the anti-freeze going? Is it a clogged radiator,or bad water pump I don't know, there are no leaks. There is no smoke, and the car runs smooth. Normal driving at low speed it does not overheat, only at high speeds. I hope I don't have a cracked block.
Hello. I have a 1997 Limited and a 2002 Overland. Both have similar clock setting rules. With an ink pen in hand look at the face of your clock. You should see two small recesses in the upper right hand side of the face. One marked hour and the other marked minutes. Inserting the pen into each recess adjusts your clock to the desired time.
i have a question i have a 2003 liberty and need to change the trany fluid and can't find any atf-4 anywhere except the dealer and they want $8.50 to $12.00 a qt.my question is can i use atf-5 instead of 4 and where if not where can i get 4 besides the dealer?Thank you. stugots39. :confuse:
I have a 95 Wrangle with a 4 cyl, checking the oil and found anti-freeze on the dip stick. I started out with looking over and under the jeep and did a compression test: all were fine. Than I pulled the head, found no cracks on the head or block. The gasket was intact. Out of ideas of what is the problem.
On my 92 Jeep you hold in the Clock button till the hour is displayed, then you either hit the plus or minus button on to get to the correct hour. Hit the Clock button again to get to the minutes, and do the same, use the plus or minus button to get to the correct minutes, then when finished hit the Clock button again to end.
i have a 2004 wrangler with this same problem. could this be from not changing the oil / lubricant. it's a very loud clicking noise. when i accelerate, it gets louder. the dealer told me that my engine was blown. is the engine fixable. the jeep runs- only makes a loud and obnoxious tapping noise as if someone was under the hood banging away. what do you think? i need help...
I have a 96 GrandCherokee 4.0 6cyl. After about 30 minutes of driving it starts pulsing like you are patting the gas pedal. It only does this after 30 minutes or so of driving. I have had it to 2 dealers and 1 local mech. The codes say multiple misfires, but no one can diagnose. It had a cracked exhaust manifold and I replaced that, but still does same thing. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Most likely this is an electrical problem. I would try replacing the plugs and wires first, unless you have done them recently this is good maintenance procedure. Also, have you had to add any coolant since this problem started?
i am having the same prob. i took the head off, it was fine, two pushrods were bent (slightly) very slightly!, the took the lifters out and guess what they were all stuck at the top. so i replaced all them,and all pushrods, back together and the same thing if not a little worse! i am sick 2 my stomach here!??! the sound seems to be coming from the rocker arms.i'm lost but am now thinking when my lifters stuck and bent the two pushrods (very slightly) maybe then the bridge or rockers are worn out of spec. i heard the tick coming had others listen to it and they all said they heard nothing but i drive/ drove it everyday so i heard it. then one day starting down a road close to home it got really loud and that is still the case. and since there is no way to adjust the lash on these things?????the wear on all the rockers and slides looked good. could the rocker arms be bent? they look pretty tough. help :sick: please!!!
I just purchasesd a 97 jeep wrangler- it has no book with it and I can't figure out how to change my clock. I'm sure it's simple, but I give up. Somebody help!!
I have a 98 tj with a 4.0 5 spd. it has been down for about the last year. I went out to fix the probs today(completed) and the darn thing will not start. It cranks over but is not getting any fire. I have replaced the coil, wires, cap, and rotor,and all fuses are ok. Oh yeah and the battery also. I am pretty sure i am getting fuel I can smell it with cranking but no pressure in the rail. I am at my wits end with this thing. Is there an ecsm that can go bad? could it be the computer itself, or is it something simple I am missing? I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
I`m wanting to buy a replacement skin for my '97. It currently is the Besttop spice, but I want to replace it with the Sailcloth. I`m told the Sailcloth is only available in camel. The problem is my Jeep has the half doors with the slider windows. How much color difference will there be between the spice on the upper doors and the camel? And is there something I can apply to the spice to darken it to match? I don't want to have to buy new upper doors also. Thanks.
We took delivery of a new 2006 Unlimited Rubicon, lt. khaki w/dk. khaki hardtop 6 weeks ago. Any suggestions as to how to keep the hardtop looking new?
P.S. I have posted #20363 and #21372 under the Discussion Title: Jeep Wrangler. No response. If someone knows the correct place for me to post in order to receive a response, please advise. I did a search specifically and then generally on 'hardtop' and read through ten screens of messages, but none of them addressed my question even remotely. Thank you for your assistance.
Anyone have a recommendation for replacement tires for an '01 Wrangler Sport, 4.0L six, with OE GoodYear Wrangler GS/As (235/75/15s), with about 56k. This seems like way over normal for replacement mileage, so while they may not be the best rated tires, they've served me well enough.
First, how many miles are most of you getting out of your OE tires? These aren't 'bald', but they're pretty worn, especially in the rear. I could probably hold out til Fall/Winter, as the car is pretty much only driven in the city and occasionally highway, never off-roaded, and my commute to work is about two miles each way, so it's only logging ~5k a year the past couple years. I live in Chicago, so snow/ice are issues sometimes. I realize wear on Jeep tires will vary widely because of the varied use of the vehicles, so I'll take that into account.
I recently saw some BF Goodrich Rugged Trail T/As on sale at Sears for $90 each, which seems pretty reasonable--most tires are in the $110-125 range. Anyone have experience with these?
Your problem is the backup light activation switch on your shifter. You might be able to have it adjusted. If not, it costs about $10 from the dealer. Everything should be fine after that.
I'm experiencing the same problem. I've talked with another Jeep owner and he's got the same problem. I think it is the seals that are going bad where the adapter plate mounts to the engine block. There is a seal kit that you can purchase at the local Jeep dealer which might fix the problem, however, neither one of us have had time to replace them yet. We just narrowed down the problem a week ago.
"I owned a 1992 Cherokee with a 4.0 -6. it had constant oil seepage from the rear of the engine. My dealer replaced the plastic valve cover with a die cast aluminum one with no success in reducing oil seepage. I finally traced the oil to the spin on oil filter mount. The o-rings that seal the oil filter mount are Nitrile (aka Buna-N, NBR) which have limited life at the 225 degrees that this engine operates at. Removing the mount, I found that the o-rings had taken on a set and were hard as a rock and cracking. Replacing the o-rings with the same size but with 70 Durometer Viton rubber solved the leakage. Chrysler at the time would only replace them with the same Nitrile rubber which would probably buy me 6 months.... My fix lasted the life of the vehicle."
I haven't investegate to see where I can purchase the 70 Durometer Viton rubber o-ring from. That's next on my to do list.
I own a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee which i have owned since December 98. The only problem I have had as of lately is that when i excelerate, my ari flow from my main vents stops and it blows through my defroster vents. Once the engine gears up to match the speed, the air shifts back to blow through the main vents. Does anyone know what the problem may be?
You have a vacuum leak. Check under hood for any broken or cracked vacuum hoses, this is the most common point of failure. When you accelerate (open the throttle body) the inlet of air into the engine gets bigger causing the vacuum to drop. Your vents change because the loss of vacuum lets the springs on your ventilation system's move the doors to the position of least resistance.
I just bought at '03 with 48,287 miles on it. Looking for an extended warranty for it. Any one have any suggestions. The jeep dealership guy was a %#%$ when I called and even asked if it was possible for them to sell me one. HE didn't want to talk to me at all! :confuse:
The hose dry rotted right where it comes out under the wiper and it now shoots straight out the back. Yeah, it's kinda funny to be sitting at a traffic light and spray the car behind me, but the rear window doesn't get sprayed at all. How do I fix that? In the 4WD catalog, there is a universal tubing kit which includes T connector and inline reducer, but I don't know if that is what I need or not? I don't know how to get the hose back in. A piece must still be in there, but if it is, I don't know how to get if off. If a picture would help let me know! Thanks!!!
Have your tried removing the plastic lift gate panel? It should be held in place by a few trim screws and clips. When that piece is off, you should be able to see the hose and how to replace it.
I have a carfax report on my new Jeep GC and its says "Suspension system serviced" every time it says Oil Change. What exactly does "Suspension system serviced" mean? Is that a normal thing? :confuse:
At 55000 miles time has come to replace the shocks on my '02 GC Limited V8. Would like something a tad stiffer than OE HDutys. Suggestions? Your Experiences? Tires are 245 65 17's.
I have a 98 Wrangler and the speedometer/tach stops and starts operating at random. The airbag light comes on when this happens and the gauges freeze where they are. Any ideas on what is causing this. Thanks Kevin
I too have a 2000 Grand Cherokee (4.7 V8) with a sneaky recurring overheating problem. It never leaked antifreeze, but sometimes overheated, and afterwards sometimes reported coolant low. I replaced the radiator and thermostat. Still had problem a few weeks later. Could hear coolant gurgling thru heater core, suggesting air in system, yet reservoir was full. Had my Jeep dealer look at it 3 times and could not diagnose a cause. Finally took a 'leap of faith' and had them take of heads, test them for cracks, and replace head gaskets. (Replaced water pump at same time). So far so good but holy smokes this has been expensive! Not what one expects from a well- maintained vehicle which I purchased new and did all the PM to! I am curious to know if your problem was resolved similarly.
Help-I want to drain & flush the coolant myself and I cannot locate the block drain plug to drain the coolant from the engine block? Is the block drain plug obstructed from top side view of engine? Can someone provide me with a clear path to it-thanks!!!
well if i can go to a ase tech and have all that work done for half the price should i or not 90.00 labor or 40.00 let's hear some talk back on this thanks keith
On Sunday I replaced the oil with mobil 1 syn. I noticed that the oil gauge now reads zero, but I must have put on at least 30 miles (gf was driving the vehicle immediately after the oil change).
Question: Would hte engine have exploed by now? Is it likely the issue is with the pressure gauge; i.e. did i break it when I changed the filter? Or is it the actual pump? thanks
I had the same problem on my 97 Sport. You need a large torx wrench to remove the item from the block, then just replace the o-rings with a little petroleum jelly and reassemble. My old o-rings had flats on them, had not spring back.
Comments
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
My name is Ian. I just happened to see your post on the problem with your '02 Jeep. I indeed have the same problem with my '03 Sahara. The dealer changed the Steering dampener, the shocks, and even had all tires rotated and balanced. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. Luckily the local dealer is very helpful. They are still trying to figure out what's going on.
Anyway, I did a google search and some one (who had the same problem) had the front drive shaft replaced and the problem is gone. So have you solved the shaking problem on your jeep yet?
I actually noticed that grinding noise on my 2003 Jeep, too. It is like that all the time. From what I heard, Chrysler put in a newer manual transmission since the year 2000 and everytime when we release the clutch, you will hear the grinding noise. It does not do any damage to your Jeep at all though. I think it's true because I have owned many manual transmission wranglers in the past; a '97 SE, a '98 Sahara, a '00 Sahara and now a '03 Sahara, the first two did not have that problem but the last two. Hope that helps.
I also remember something about having to go back into 2-Hi and then shifting smoothly right into 4-Lo rather than stopping at 4-Hi but that may have been my wife's Liberty manual using Select Trac 4x4 system.
Sorry I can't answer your question clearly...just trying to give you some ideas. Good luck.
Inserting the pen into each recess adjusts your clock to the desired time.
stugots39. :confuse:
I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
P.S. I have posted #20363 and #21372 under the Discussion Title: Jeep Wrangler. No response. If someone knows the correct place for me to post in order to receive a response, please advise. I did a search specifically and then generally on 'hardtop' and read through ten screens of messages, but none of them addressed my question even remotely. Thank you for your assistance.
Other than the Mopar stuff the dealer recommended I don't know. Anyone?
Steve, Host
Thanks for the reply.
First, how many miles are most of you getting out of your OE tires? These aren't 'bald', but they're pretty worn, especially in the rear. I could probably hold out til Fall/Winter, as the car is pretty much only driven in the city and occasionally highway, never off-roaded, and my commute to work is about two miles each way, so it's only logging ~5k a year the past couple years. I live in Chicago, so snow/ice are issues sometimes. I realize wear on Jeep tires will vary widely because of the varied use of the vehicles, so I'll take that into account.
I recently saw some BF Goodrich Rugged Trail T/As on sale at Sears for $90 each, which seems pretty reasonable--most tires are in the $110-125 range. Anyone have experience with these?
I did find the following online from another website:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/40.html
"I owned a 1992 Cherokee with a 4.0 -6. it had constant oil seepage from the rear of the engine. My dealer replaced the plastic valve cover with a die cast aluminum one with no success in reducing oil seepage. I finally traced the oil to the spin on oil filter mount. The o-rings that seal the oil filter mount are Nitrile (aka Buna-N, NBR) which have limited life at the 225 degrees that this engine operates at. Removing the mount, I found that the o-rings had taken on a set and were hard as a rock and cracking. Replacing the o-rings with the same size but with 70 Durometer Viton rubber solved the leakage. Chrysler at the time would only replace them with the same Nitrile rubber which would probably buy me 6 months.... My fix lasted the life of the vehicle."
I haven't investegate to see where I can purchase the 70 Durometer Viton rubber o-ring from. That's next on my to do list.
Thank you,
David
65 17's.
Thanks
Kevin
keith
Good luck.
Question: Would hte engine have exploed by now? Is it likely the issue is with the pressure gauge; i.e. did i break it when I changed the filter? Or is it the actual pump? thanks
Charley