That's a way to start a morning!!! Happy Friday to all. I just used a plug socket and extension. Works quite well. Replaced the plugs with Bosch+4 platinum spark plugs. How are they? The car runs a slight bit cooler, idle is smoother, low-end power lags a bit, but high-end power is nice. The overall verdict? Don't waste your money on these or Splitfire's. Regular plugs work just fine.
I am considering buying a 2002 Protege but I would like to know if the DX has a timing belt or chain.What is the maintenance schedule for the timing belt or chain replacement?
Can you even find Scotchguard? I thought it's been banned. No, there's no reason to get any "protection" from the dealer. Try reading the "Zaino" board on "wax".
Thanks for the info on the Protege.I am assuming that the 2002 will be the same.We'll have to wait to find out for sure.Do you know if it is the type of engine that gets ruined if the belt breaks? There is a name for this type but I forgot what it is.
In terms of seat protection, somebody posted that they were at a dealership and the service people were doing the seat protection to a new car. They were just spraying scotchguard on the seats, so IMO, scotchguard will work just fine. It's what I did to my car. Also, I read in another forum somewhere that 3M has stopped producing scotchguard. Sorry I don't remember the thread or post #...But there was an offical memo on the 3M webpage. Anyway, I have still been able to find cans of scotchguard around...just have to hunt around. Also, IMHO, the paint protection is just a waste. Put some good wax on and you should be fine....of course I'm no expert so this is just my opinion (can't stress that enough...) Anyway, good luck
I had the timing belt snap when I was driving a 1991 Ford Escort GT. That's Escort's engine was a Mazda 1.8L, which was a slightly bored-out version of the Miata's then 1.6L. It was a non-interference engine and had a higher compression ratio (and more power) than the '99-'00 ES, which is basically the same engine as the '01 2.0. If it is an interference engine, I would be totally surprised. Maltb??
Non-interference engines don't destroy themselves in case the timing mechanism (belt or chain) breaks or is mis-timed. Honda engines are interference engines. Big mistake to skimp on changing the timing belts on those. Ouch.
I thought someone recently posted that their timing belt had slipped and the valves were fine. Of course, we need someone in the know to confirm this, or to dig it up.
We had a 1990 Integra with 134,000 miles when the timing belt went it's own separate way. Fortunately there was no damage to the engine and only cost us about $400 for a new belt and water pump. However, we have never really tested fate on a Honda timing belt again for fear that we might not get as lucky the second time around.
In order to change oil filter I have to jack the car up a considerable distance to get a jack stand under the frame. Like raising the front wheel off the ground about 6 inches. Almost the entire height of the jack provided with the car. Can raising one wheel this high cause any damage to frame, suspension etc.? I do hear some creaking and croaking when I let it back down so I'm wondering if I should stop doing this. Any other suggestions on lift points other than those mentioned in owner's manual?
Maltb, jstandefer, any comments on applicability of this piece as a "hardpoint"? On my '89 323, there is a structural bar across the front (under the radiator) that can be used to jack up the entire front of the car (the front tie-down points are attached to this bar also). Is there a similar component on the current Pro design?
I wouldn't jack it up by the radiator support, but you can on the crossmember towards the rear of the engine compartment. Just be careful that you get a solid footing and avoid any bolt on components.
This will make it easier for me to slip my catch pan underneath the plug. I always am wary of bending the sheet metal at the jack points illustrated in the owner's manual.
I see that the filter for 626-v6 has the same thread(am i correct?) and is twice as long as the PRO filter. Any problem if I use that filter in place of the tuna can filter for the PRO?
I own a 93 Protege DX, and I am having a huge problem with poor windshield visibility. The glass has developed what look like hard-water spots that will not come off, and in bright sunlight I can hardly see through the windows at all. I have tried everything I can think of to get rid of the spots (washed and scrubbed the car repeatedly, used windex, lime away) and nothing has worked. Anyone else had this problem? Any ideas how to get the window clear and clean again?
Do the spots feel like they're raised or are they indentations? If raised, it's prbably some surface goo. If not, it'll most likely be an etching of some sort.
As far as I can tell, the spots do not feel raised, but I don't feel indentation either..... If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives) BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
Get a towel slightly wet, rub it on the cake (available at any hardware or grocery store, about $1.79), forming a wet paste on the towel, and rub on the glass. Hose off. This works great on windshields every other month to reduce wiper chatter and get the film off the glass.
As long as you don't run the bar on the window, you won't scratch the glass.
As far as I can tell, the spots do not feel raised, but I don't feel indentation either..... If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives) BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
In Town Hall select the Maintenance&Repair Topic from the main menu. Select the "Store Bought Waxes Part 11 (No Zaino Posts) topic. There are two very helpful regular posters at that topic. Bretfratz and Mrdetailer, should be able to help you. Go there and ask.
As far as I can tell, the spots do not feel raised, but I don't feel indentation either..... If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives) BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
Here's a (silly?) question for you all. If you do your own maintenence on your car (i.e. own oil changes, etc.) how do you prove that you've done them to a prospective buyer? The reason I ask is because I recently got some car ramps and other oil change tools and I intend to do them myself. Also, in terms of warranty, how do you prove to the dealer that you've been doing them regularly? Thanks,
But it helps if you document your maintenance well.
Set up a database document that details date, mileage at service, descriptions of service etc. I include any dealer or independent garage services and even include modifications and additions such as speakers, tires etc.
While the only independent documentation you can provide are receipts, if they agree with your records, that should buttress the credibility of the documentation of the services you do yourself. I'd keep receipts for supplies (oil, filters etc.) used in self-servicing too. At least it proves you bought them.
To tell you the truth, I have no idea how the wax holds up to snow and road salt. I live in sunny San Diego where sun damage and airborn contaminants are the major problems.
I think your best bet is to visit Meguiar's website and have them create a FREE personalized paint care prescription that is based on your location, goals, and vehicle. Here's the link:
The application of the products is in the order I listed them. However, you certainly do not have to do this very often. To keep your paint looking new, you should wash it by hand at home. Don't use a car wash wand or any other car washing gimmicks. Use a soft wash mit that's either made with 100% terry cloth, sheepskin, or chenille. Use soap specifically designed for washing vehicles, such as Meguiar's Gold Class car wash. Don't use dishwashing liquid or liquid hand soaps. Dry your vehicle with a natural chamois or 100% terry cloth towels. Don't bother with the synthetic chamois. Follow these steps:
1) Spray the car from top to bottom with a good pressure spray. Your goal is to remove as much of the dirt as possible. Dirt left on the surface will scratch the paint and leave swirlmarks or "spiderwebs" on the paint, particularly a black car such as yours.
2) Starting from the top, use your wash mit or sponge to soap the surface and remove debris not removed with the water spray. If you are washing in the sun, do only one section at a time. NEVER let soap dry onto your paint. Don't be afraid to apply pressure. If you drop your mit or sponge, wash it off with water first to ensure it didn't pick up any scratch-producing rocks or dirt. Do the area around the exhaust, wheels, wheel wells, and lower body sills last as these are the dirtiest.
3) As you are soaping the car, pay close attention to the surface. This is where you will notice scratches, chips, and stains in the paint.
4) Rinse the car with a gentle stream of water, starting from the top. Notice how the water runs off the body panels, particularly the roof, hood, and trunklid. The water should run off immediately and create beads on horizontal surfaces. The smaller the beads, the better your car's surface. Larger beads or no beads at all means its time to clean, polish, and wax your car.
5) Dry the car with the chamois or 100% terry cloth towels. The terry cloth towels will soak water quickly but become of little use once it has become totally wet. The chamois soaks water quickly as well, but wringing it out thoroughly will give you infinite drying power. Ensure you soak the chamois first before using it to dry the car. NEVER apply a dry chamois to the paint, as it will scratch it. A good chamois will dry windows streak free and never scratch the paint.
6) If the rinse water didn't bead up to small beads, or if you noticed that the surface is no longer glass smooth, it is time to clean, polish, and wax.
Cleaning, Polishing, and Waxing:
The chemical cleaning that Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Cleaner provides is outstanding and alone will usually produce a glass smooth surface. Rub your clean finger along the paint surface. You should get a squeaking sound much like you would with clean glass.
Once you have cleaned the surface, it is always best (but not required) to polish it. Contaminants will eat away at the surface, producing a less than totally flat surface. The flatter the paint surface is, the higher the gloss and reflectivity. Polish is like using 50,000 grit sandpaper. It flattens the paint surface to produce that high quality gloss. Polishing is best done with a buffer equipped with a foam or lamb's wool pad. Once polishing is complete, it's time to apply the wax. The wax will protect the surface from contaminants, oxidation, and sun damage.
I hope this helps out. It looks like Meguiar's is sold in Canada. I haven't really tried any other products, but I hear the Turtle Wax brand is pretty good. Also, don't use that Color Back wax or any other color tinted wax. This may restore color, but it ruins the luster and shine of the finish.
It's in the valve cover just forward of the #4 spark plug hole (counting from passenger side). I rarely replace them, rather just clean them with a good carb cleaner. Carefully spray some in there and shake it around with your fingers over the ends and then drain. you should hear the plunger rattling inside and only should be able to blow in one direction.
Hi gang, It's probably been over a year since I've visited TownHall, so please let me know if I'm in the wrong discussion. My 2000 Protege ES is overdue for new tires (36,000 miles). I'm moving to Florida, where it rains torrentially on a regular basis, so the need is real! A few questions (if you all have already discussed this, please just let me know the post # or the general time frame you discussed it, and I'll find it):
1) Do I need "all season" tires? I can't seem to find any criteria that tell me what all season tires are for. 2) What tires have you used to replace your original Bridgestone Potenzas, and were they a satisfactory replacement? 3) Did you go through a dealer, or order the tires from some place like TireRack.com?
I am about to put a second set of tire onto the '99 ES. If you are moving to an area of Florida that does not experience any ice or snow, you should be able to get by with some good performance summer tires. Summer tires are designed to both dry and wet use. "All season" tires are designed to give you dry and wet traction, in addition to traction in light snow and ice. The downfall of "all season" tires is that they give up some performance for their "all season" capabilities.
After my Potenza's, I put a set of Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" tires on my car. I also upped the size from 195/55R15 to 205/50R15. The Nitto's are quieter and offer better traction that the Potenza's. I always found the Potenza's to hydroplane quite often. The Nitto's stayed planted on the road in even the largest downpours (of course, our large downpours in SoCal are nothing compared to Florida).
Some people don't like to go with off brands such as Nitto. For the price, I found the Nitto's hard to beat. I got them at Discount Tire Co. (America's Tire in the mid-west, east, and south, I believe) for $73 each. TireRack sells them much cheaper. If you want more of a name brand tire, I would suggest Dunlop SP Sport 5000's. It's an "all season" tire with outstanding performance, certainly better than the Potenza's. They should also offer better tread wear and is excellent against hydroplaning. I almost bought a set at Sears, but I will probably buy them from the TireRack.com, if I don't get the Pirelli P7000's (a summer tire).
I am replacing my tires in the next few days (at 49,000 miles now) and will keep everyone posted.
on my ES, there is an elbow at the end of the tube that goes into the airhose.....and it's too tight to pull out.....there is only a metal tube projecting from the valve cover.
the interior cover for my sunroof is dirty...i imagine it's from the repaint job they did on my roof. it just looks like white powder...how can i get in that tiny space between the cover and the actual sunroof glass?? if i open my sunroof, it automatically pulls the interior cover open with it. is there any way to bypass this without breaking the interior cover? since my pro is black, the white is quite noticeable and i wanted to get rid of it asap... thanx 'duh'
well, i figure that's the only way i can clean that stuff out: by opening the sunroof while keeping the interior cover closed. is there any way to accomplish this without busting it??
on some you can open the roof half-way, and pull down on the front and slide it forward at the same time. This releases shade from the slider. I'm not positve that it's the same on the Pro. Try it and see.
Comments
SPARK PLUG WRENCH-5"
High quality cadmium plated steel tool. Fits 5/8" & 13/16" hex plugs.
Jerry, read my post in protege Sedans for the plugs.
Thank you, mbbstims
I don't mind waxing my 2001 Protege (live in Ohio) (any suggestions on prefered wax?)
Does the factory seats come with any stain protection? or should I just spray them with Scotchguard?
Thanks for any help in advance.
There is a name for this type but I forgot what it is.
mbbstims
Also, I read in another forum somewhere that 3M has stopped producing scotchguard. Sorry I don't remember the thread or post #...But there was an offical memo on the 3M webpage. Anyway, I have still been able to find cans of scotchguard around...just have to hunt around. Also, IMHO, the paint protection is just a waste. Put some good wax on and you should be fine....of course I'm no expert so this is just my opinion (can't stress that enough...)
Anyway, good luck
Regards,
Protege_fan
Pro_fan
I thought someone recently posted that their timing belt had slipped and the valves were fine. Of course, we need someone in the know to confirm this, or to dig it up.
Any other suggestions on lift points other than those mentioned in owner's manual?
This will make it easier for me to slip my catch pan underneath the plug. I always am wary of bending the sheet metal at the jack points illustrated in the owner's manual.
Rain-X helps to smooth out some surface imperfections. Give that a try.
If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives)
BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
http://www.bonami.com/bonhistx.html
http://www.bonami.com
Get a towel slightly wet, rub it on the cake (available at any hardware or grocery store, about $1.79), forming a wet paste on the towel, and rub on the glass. Hose off. This works great on windshields every other month to reduce wiper chatter and get the film off the glass.
As long as you don't run the bar on the window, you won't scratch the glass.
If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives)
BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
-Larry
If it IS etching, any suggestions for how to polish them out? (I'll try Rain-X as suggested by mazdafun, but I would appreciate any other ideas/alternatives)
BTW, I just last week bought a second Protege.... a 2001 ES w/5spd! I absolutely love it! I only wish the ES would have still been available in the great-looking blue from 2000. I ended up going with the sand metallic color.
Thanks,
Pro_fan
Set up a database document that details date, mileage at service, descriptions of service etc. I include any dealer or independent garage services and even include modifications and additions such as speakers, tires etc.
While the only independent documentation you can provide are receipts, if they agree with your records, that should buttress the credibility of the documentation of the services you do yourself. I'd keep receipts for supplies (oil, filters etc.) used in self-servicing too. At least it proves you bought them.
To tell you the truth, I have no idea how the wax holds up to snow and road salt. I live in sunny San Diego where sun damage and airborn contaminants are the major problems.
I think your best bet is to visit Meguiar's website and have them create a FREE personalized paint care prescription that is based on your location, goals, and vehicle. Here's the link:
http://www.meguiars.com/CarRx.cfm
The application of the products is in the order I listed them. However, you certainly do not have to do this very often. To keep your paint looking new, you should wash it by hand at home. Don't use a car wash wand or any other car washing gimmicks. Use a soft wash mit that's either made with 100% terry cloth, sheepskin, or chenille. Use soap specifically designed for washing vehicles, such as Meguiar's Gold Class car wash. Don't use dishwashing liquid or liquid hand soaps. Dry your vehicle with a natural chamois or 100% terry cloth towels. Don't bother with the synthetic chamois. Follow these steps:
1) Spray the car from top to bottom with a good pressure spray. Your goal is to remove as much of the dirt as possible. Dirt left on the surface will scratch the paint and leave swirlmarks or "spiderwebs" on the paint, particularly a black car such as yours.
2) Starting from the top, use your wash mit or sponge to soap the surface and remove debris not removed with the water spray. If you are washing in the sun, do only one section at a time. NEVER let soap dry onto your paint. Don't be afraid to apply pressure. If you drop your mit or sponge, wash it off with water first to ensure it didn't pick up any scratch-producing rocks or dirt. Do the area around the exhaust, wheels, wheel wells, and lower body sills last as these are the dirtiest.
3) As you are soaping the car, pay close attention to the surface. This is where you will notice scratches, chips, and stains in the paint.
4) Rinse the car with a gentle stream of water, starting from the top. Notice how the water runs off the body panels, particularly the roof, hood, and trunklid. The water should run off immediately and create beads on horizontal surfaces. The smaller the beads, the better your car's surface. Larger beads or no beads at all means its time to clean, polish, and wax your car.
5) Dry the car with the chamois or 100% terry cloth towels. The terry cloth towels will soak water quickly but become of little use once it has become totally wet. The chamois soaks water quickly as well, but wringing it out thoroughly will give you infinite drying power. Ensure you soak the chamois first before using it to dry the car. NEVER apply a dry chamois to the paint, as it will scratch it. A good chamois will dry windows streak free and never scratch the paint.
6) If the rinse water didn't bead up to small beads, or if you noticed that the surface is no longer glass smooth, it is time to clean, polish, and wax.
Cleaning, Polishing, and Waxing:
The chemical cleaning that Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Cleaner provides is outstanding and alone will usually produce a glass smooth surface. Rub your clean finger along the paint surface. You should get a squeaking sound much like you would with clean glass.
Once you have cleaned the surface, it is always best (but not required) to polish it. Contaminants will eat away at the surface, producing a less than totally flat surface. The flatter the paint surface is, the higher the gloss and reflectivity. Polish is like using 50,000 grit sandpaper. It flattens the paint surface to produce that high quality gloss. Polishing is best done with a buffer equipped with a foam or lamb's wool pad. Once polishing is complete, it's time to apply the wax. The wax will protect the surface from contaminants, oxidation, and sun damage.
I hope this helps out. It looks like Meguiar's is sold in Canada. I haven't really tried any other products, but I hear the Turtle Wax brand is pretty good. Also, don't use that Color Back wax or any other color tinted wax. This may restore color, but it ruins the luster and shine of the finish.
Any ideas?
It's probably been over a year since I've visited TownHall, so please let me know if I'm in the wrong discussion. My 2000 Protege ES is overdue for new tires (36,000 miles). I'm moving to Florida, where it rains torrentially on a regular basis, so the need is real! A few questions (if you all have already discussed this, please just let me know the post # or the general time frame you discussed it, and I'll find it):
1) Do I need "all season" tires? I can't seem to find any criteria that tell me what all season tires are for.
2) What tires have you used to replace your original Bridgestone Potenzas, and were they a satisfactory replacement?
3) Did you go through a dealer, or order the tires from some place like TireRack.com?
Thanks!
After my Potenza's, I put a set of Nitto NT450 "Extreme Performance" tires on my car. I also upped the size from 195/55R15 to 205/50R15. The Nitto's are quieter and offer better traction that the Potenza's. I always found the Potenza's to hydroplane quite often. The Nitto's stayed planted on the road in even the largest downpours (of course, our large downpours in SoCal are nothing compared to Florida).
Some people don't like to go with off brands such as Nitto. For the price, I found the Nitto's hard to beat. I got them at Discount Tire Co. (America's Tire in the mid-west, east, and south, I believe) for $73 each. TireRack sells them much cheaper. If you want more of a name brand tire, I would suggest Dunlop SP Sport 5000's. It's an "all season" tire with outstanding performance, certainly better than the Potenza's. They should also offer better tread wear and is excellent against hydroplaning. I almost bought a set at Sears, but I will probably buy them from the TireRack.com, if I don't get the Pirelli P7000's (a summer tire).
I am replacing my tires in the next few days (at 49,000 miles now) and will keep everyone posted.
Which end? the one that goes into the valve cover or the one that goes into the air hose?
Question is how do I pull out this elbow?
the interior cover for my sunroof is dirty...i imagine it's from the repaint job they did on my roof. it just looks like white powder...how can i get in that tiny space between the cover and the actual sunroof glass?? if i open my sunroof, it automatically pulls the interior cover open with it. is there any way to bypass this without breaking the interior cover? since my pro is black, the white is quite noticeable and i wanted to get rid of it asap...
thanx
'duh'