I love anything that upsets the "normal" way of life, and nothing does it quite like a snowstorm! While everyone else is panicking, cramming the grocery stores and getting stuck in ditches because they were out in the snow for no good reason, I'm cozied up by the fireplace, eating my wife's homemade Christmas cookies and drinking bourbon!!! Add to that the knowledge that work will be shut down for a few days, and like the famous beer commercial says, "Man, it don't GET no better than this."
And no, we DON'T have a good supply of snow-removal equipment and chemicals -- for a good storm, that is. Most of the time it's sufficient. But anything over a few inches will shut us down for several days. The last time we had a decent snowfall -- an 18-inch storm in January 2000 -- they focused on the highways and main roads, and then moved onto back roads and subdivisions after that. Our road wasn't cleared until a week after the storm ended. That in itself causes a decent storm to shut down schools for a week, because the school buses can't get into the subdivisions. Kids around here love the snow since it's so unpredictable and it's a sure school-closer ... and I guess since I grew up here, I still love the few big storms we get from time to time!!!
Still waiting for a white Christmas, though -- we get most of our snow in January and February.
"Meguiar's Gold Class liquid -- It was not easy to remove because it never really "dried" to the point that it was easy to buff off"
I'm not certain but I think the gold class from meguiars is one of the ones that you don't let dry, it takes a very thin coat and then you rub it back off right then.
insult or anything, it's just that it is fairly common for people, including me, to us the gold class wax like a regular wax (apply, wait for haze, wipe off) whereas it is an apply and keep wiping till it's gone wax
I'm fine... busy with a part-time and then my work computer lost its internet connection all week due to some corrupted file...
Back up now...
Regarding waxes.. I want to try the Medallion line. I'm probably going to buy them from Classic cars.. the one you bought from.. as its fairly close by where I live...
I got that stuff called "GS-27 Scratch Remover" for my car, and just tried it for the first time yesterday on the Protege. It sucks! Didn't take out my smaller scratches at all. I am mad! That was my last hope before repainting the car. It will come sometime later (in a year or two), but still. My car is black, so maybe that has something to do with it. The GS-27 took a small scratch out of my friend's dark blue Tahoe, but not my black Protege. I don't get it.
Not sure about GS-27, but with products like Merguiar's Scratch-X, I've read that it can take up to an hour-and-a-half to remove scratches. This is because it is a very mild abrasive. I think I saw an infomercial for that GS-27 stuff....is that the stuff that they showed fixing scratches on a new car's hood after they key itserval times? Looks like magic on TV, but I highly doubt it works that well, but who knows for sure?!? Maybe the GS-27 stuff works by "smudging" the paint. Since your Pro has a clearcoat, maybe it couldn't affect the deep scratches.
i have that... it kinda fills in the scratch.. You have to wax it after. lasted pretty long time.. took out a scratch I had on the hood. of course I knew it was still there and where to look.
PF: Yeah, that's the where they key the new car and it magically removes the scratches. Bullcrap. It didn't take any of mine out.
Meade: You would have been looking all day at my car, as I have several scratches, some on the same body panel. The people in my neighborhood are ruthless and nasty, and their kids are sloppy. Thing is, I never catch them. Believe me, if I could get away with electrifying the car, I would. Just to see how many fried kids I could get in a week.
Nike: I have a gash in my hood, deep enough to almost fit a key head in. That's why I got the magentic bra for the hood, to cover the scratch.
I recently bought a 2000 Protege LX and the ride is a lot stiffer than I thought when I test-drove it: to me, it is uncomfortable.
I've read the comments on this list about tires, but I think most folks are looking more for performance than comfort.
I am really looking for comfort!!
What tire would you recommend for the most comfortable ride possible?
Also, will changing tires really make much of a difference in comfort-level from the stock tires that came with my car? I don't want to waste money on a "fix" that doesn't work!
Yes, changing to a "touring" type of tire will have a definite improvement on the ride, making it softer and quieter. If you don't care for hard cornering capabilities, you can also go with a tire with a higher aspect ratio -- the second number in the tire designation. It'll give you a taller sidewall that will cushion your ride more. I would recommend going to tirerack.com and using its form to plug in your year, make and model, and then it'll show you what tires you can use -- from touring tires right on up to Z-rated speed demon tires.
BTW, I don't like the tires on my 2000 ES (Bridgestone Potenza RE92s) because they are no good in the rain, they're loud as hell, and they don't last long at all. (27,500 miles and their treadwear indicators are showing.) I'll be replacing my tires next month with a set of Yokohama AVID T4 touring tires from Tire Rack. In my car's size, 195/55T15, they're about $60 apiece.
One nice thing about the Tire Rack site is that it includes comments from owners of all of the tires it sells. You can read dozens (sometimes hundreds) of comments from people who have bought the tires you're looking at. For example, the comments from owners of Acuras, Civics, Volvos and other cars that said the Yokohamas are quiet, last a long time, and still have somewhat sporty capabilities -- and they're really good in the rain -- sold me on them. Give it a try!
Meade
(BTW -- what make and size tire came with your car? Was the car purchased used; if so, are your tires the originals?)
I think they were still 185/64R14s on the 2000 LXs. Take a look at the Michelin X-Ones also. I have a set on my '89 323. They're very quiet and soft, yet have good dry and wet grip. They do cost more ($75 from Tire Rack) and they have an annoying habit of trapping small rocks and grit in the water sipes.
The Firestone FR680s that came on my '99 Pro LX are subpar, to put it nicely. I'm probably going to replace them with Dunlop SP Sport A2s (the AVID T4s are a close second). Neither are supposed to be as quiet or comfortable as the Michelin X-Ones though, according to the consumer surveys on the Tire Rack site.
Beyond "touring" class, there is the all-season "passenger" class. However, I think the more comfortable touring tires will be as comfy as the passenger tires.
You'll note the FR680s are not much liked, according to the surveys. I have to agree with them. They're OK on dry, but they're a bit stiff and have very little grip on wet, icy or snow-covered roads. Even with my little 1.6L engine, I can make them spin. Yoiks!
I just visited the Tire Rack site to check on those X-Ones. They're not available in the 2000 ES size: 195/55R15.
And a correction: You said neither the FR680 or the AVID T4 are as quiet as the X-Ones. Well, according to those same customer surveys, the AVIDs got an 8.2 out of 10 for noise comfort and the X-Ones got a 7.9. So according to the surveys, the Yokos are quieter.
Actually, those scores are pretty close, so they should be similar. But the AVID T4 is still rated quieter. The continuous central tread and the highly-slanted edges of the next treads over help in this.
So far as size, I think the 2000 LX came with 185/65R14s, same as the 1999 LX.
You're right; the X-Ones do not come in 195/55R15. Neither does the Dunlop SP Sport A2. It may just be a matter of time until more vehicles come equipped with this size. However, both come in 185/65R14 (which used to be a rare size just a few years ago).
"If you don't care for hard cornering capabilities, you can also go with a tire with a higher aspect ratio -- the second number in the tire designation. It'll give you a taller sidewall that will cushion your ride more."
I talked to a Goodyear guy today who said that changing the aspect ratio will effect the odometer and speedometer. Is this true?? If so, this seems like a problem.
Also, about half the tire places I called said that a stiff ride will not be made more comfortable (softer) just by changing tires. BTW, i am driving a 2000 Protege LX with Firestone FR680 185/65--14 tires. The ride is uncomfortable to me.
Has anyone out there actually had personal experience with improving a stiff ride via replacing tires.
Yes, it will affect your speedometer. But it will also improve the ride.
And yes, I have experienced an improved ride from swapping tires. On my 1992 Protege LX, I switched tires from the stock Bridgestone Potenza RE92s and put on a set of Yokohama touring tires. There was a noticable improvement in the ride. It was quieter and softer.
Do you think the tire guy owns a Protege? Or would you rather hear from people like me who've owned three?
(BTW, If half the places you called said changing tires won't make the ride more comfortable, what did the other half say?)
They're probably trying to avoid high expectations. No, a Protege won't become a Buick Roadmaster by changing the tires. However, a softer tire WILL soften the ride. Whether it's to the extent you desire is what's unknown.
It's just like the difference between dress shoes and athletic shoes. The suspension and chassis are the same. The only thing different is the padding on the bottom of your feet (tires on your wheels).
You can calculate the change in odometer reading by calculating the change in circumference (or diameter) to figure the change in speedometer and odometer readings. A 3% increase in diameter will yield a 3% reduction in speedometer (v. actual) and odometer readings. A 3% reduction in diameter will yield a 3% increase in speedometer and odometer readings.
I thought Tire Rack had such a calculator on their web site (search for "plus" or "minus" sizing). You can calculate it yourself. First calculate the existing set-up. The wheel diameter is given in inches. To figure the tire sidewall, multiply the aspect ratio by the tire width (65x185) and divide this by 100. Convert this to inches by dividing by 25.4. Now multiply this by 2 and add this to your wheel diameter (14). Repeat this exercise for other combinations you're looking at and calculate the % increase or decrease. It won't be much, although it can mean you're over the limit by a couple mph on the highway.
BTW, changing the aspect ratio may change your readings, but it depends on the individual tire and if you change your wheel diameter. For instance, going between 185/65R14 and 195/55R15 results in a difference of a fraction of 1%. Barely noticeable on the speedometer.
It was back in '93 before I really started paying attention to my car and what was done to it. I do know, however, that the tire was not "V" rated like the stock Potenzas had been. It was "H" rated.
8000 km is when you're "supposed" to get the oil changed and get the joints, lubricated, fluids topped up, etc. Check the manual as it has a detailed list in it.
So I tried to change the oil in my P5 last night, let me tell ya...
Everything seemed to be going fine, used a floor jack to get the car off the ground. I had enough room to be comfortable, albeit not excessive. Drained the oil after killing my hand removing the drain plug (TIP** don't use a crescent wrench to do this, I learned the hard way). So after this was done I tried to remove the oil filter. Can someone tell me why they need to go one step short of welding the **&#$%$# thing onto the block??? I spent over 20 minutes trying to get the stupid thing off. There was nothing doing, couldn't even budge the thing.
So I did what any real man would do, gave up and put the oil back in. I was contemplating putting the new oil I had purchased in, but I ain't wasting $30 (synthetic) oil on the first oil change.
So I went in to the dealer today and tore them a new you know what. I must have got really mad cuz they said that they wouldn't charge me labour if I brought in my oil and filter for them. On top of it all I did the right thing in the beginning and bought a mazda filter. The thing is about the size of my mouse on my computer desk. $9 for the bloody thing, a coffee filter probably does about the same.
That sucks! Did u use an oil filter wrench to take the filter off? Apparently there's some special tool that you use to take it off. Looks kinda like a belt folded in 2. I hope it isn't that bad when I try to do a change by myself!
Well, I tied an assortment of plier and gloves, i tried to invent my own one of those things that you are talking about. I've seen the infomercial for them called the boa-constrictor?? I got an old poly-cog belt and tried using that. The problem being that there is not enough room up in there to get a good grip on it. I even contemplated jamming a screwdriver into it and turn it out. There wasn't even enough room to get a descent whack at it with the driver.
You must have to put it on a hoist to get that thing off. I put all the jam I had into it, (and I'm not a small guy), couldn't even touch it.....
Sounds like it's not gonna be a fun job when I try...But my g/f got me this thing that she says is called an "oil filter wrench". Check it out at CanTire. She also got me a set of car ramps and the little board that you can slide around on. That will *hopefully* make things easier, but we'll see!
There are two types of oil filter wrenches I'm aware of.
One looks like a metal hose clamp with a handle attached to it. When you push on the handle, it supposedly closes the metal band around the circumference of the oil filter and you can loosen it this way. I have one, and it's never worked for me (not enough grip).
The other type I have looks like a socket made for oil filters. Mine is made to fit a 3/8-in socket wrench. You'll notice most oil filters have straight faces around the closed end. Just put your socket onto your wrench and pop the socket over the faceted end of the filter. Due to the limited space, I got a short (6-in) wrench handle so I can work behind the engine block.
Shoving a screwdriver though should be the method of last resort. It makes a mess and you can't move your tool around to make it easier to work with.
Before you remove the filter, make sure to put lots of paper towels under the filter and against a cooled (not hot to the touch) engine block. This will help lessen the mess as the oil comes out of the filter and the tap.
Naturally, oil the gasket on your replacement filter (I also think it's rather under-sized) and tighten it roughly 1/4-turn after hand-tightening it. This should achieve a good seal and make it easy for you to remove the next time around.
Yeah the first wrench you describe is the one that I'm talking about. Does it work well? Is there a better/easier one to get? This job sounds like less and less fun....
Just changed the oil in my P5, got a nifty adjustable socket that has 3 arms and grabs the end of the oil filter like a socket does. I could not find a socket small enough to fit that type of oil filter used in the Proteges. Picked it up at Autozone for 6 bucks.
As for ramps, especially for the P5, you might need ramp extensions so the air dam does not hit the ramp. Got the ramp and extensions at Ames.
As to tightening, I never use the wrench, hand tighten as hard as you can.
Almost all new cars will have extremely tight oil filters from the factory. When you do the first oil change, the filter will be really tight. It won't be as bad after that. It really isn't that hard to change the oil on these cars once you get past the initial first oil change.
Seeing what a pain in the butt changing your own oil reminds me why I pay to have it done. Since I work at a car dealer I can get it done for $6 labor and I buy my own oil and filter. I put synthetic in my 01 ES at 3,500 and it has made the engine ALOT smoother IMO. It also seems to start a little smoother.
I don't know about synthetic, because I had it in my ES too, since 7500 miles. At first, it did change the habits of the engine alot, making it smoother. But that kinda deteriorated over time, and then you are not suppose to change back from synthetic oil once you to with it. I was disappointed to say the least.
Ok... I finally made the switch to Mobil 1 in our 00ProES.... Also got my hands on the Mobil 1 filter too. One thing I noticed though was the Filter was smaller (length/height wise) The previous Purolator filter was about 1/4 to 1/3" longer... anyone else notice that? and if you use the M1 filter, any problems?
I don't know, because it doesn't get that cold here in Maryland. I changed to synthetic in my 2001 Protege at 7500 miles, and couldn't tell much of a difference. What made me mad was that I was told once you go synthetic, you can't change back. It felt like to me it was a waste of money.
well if you are able to go longer between oil changes, it should pay for itself. I went to Walmart and picked up some qts for $3.74, which was $1 cheaper per at every other auto parts store.
That's what they say. Of course, what explains the blends, eh?
I think the problem is when your seals are old. Synthetic may cause some to leak (because it dissolves and removes all the gunk that plugged the leaks). Synth oil isn't responsible for the root cause, just unmasks the problem.
I think some do have additives that cause some seals to swell. Going back to dino oil may cause these to go back to normal, depending on what material the seals are made from. If you want to switch back and play it conservative, do the switch gradually to allow your seals to "spring" back slowly. Since seals are made from elastic materials, they will spring back given time, if they're still relatively new.
Over here in Ohio, we can have cold snaps where it goes down to 10-15F (or colder!...I miss CA) for several days in a row. Since my car's garaged at night, starting in the morning isn't the issue; it's starting in the afternoon. I do notice a BIG difference between dino and synth at these temperatures.
I am able to go longer between oil changes, but the oil change costs twice as normal at the shop I get it done at. A regular oil change is like $17 with tire rotation. With synthetic, it's like $35 or something. So it's not really saving any money.
From the reading I've done on these message boards here at Edmunds on Synth vs. regular oil, it seems that everyone has conflicting opinions. Some say you can't go back once you go w/ synth. Others say this is an old wives tale and can be explained by Mazdafun's explanation above.
In my girlfriend's '91 Jetta we just run 5W30 regular oil. We've had no problems w/ the winter weather the last 2 years in Calgary.
In terms of warranty, can the dealership make you change every 8000km (maximum), even if you are using synth, to stay within the warranty? What if you're using synth that says change every 20000km (or whatever they say). What if the dealership comes back at you and says, "well you didn't keep up w/ scheduled maintenance. You're SOL." ??
ahhhh you go elsewhere... I do it all myself. with 4qts of Mobil1 plus the $10 Mobil1 filter, I still came out cheaper than what the dealer charges, and I will go 5000 miles instead of every 3000.
Comments
And no, we DON'T have a good supply of snow-removal equipment and chemicals -- for a good storm, that is. Most of the time it's sufficient. But anything over a few inches will shut us down for several days. The last time we had a decent snowfall -- an 18-inch storm in January 2000 -- they focused on the highways and main roads, and then moved onto back roads and subdivisions after that. Our road wasn't cleared until a week after the storm ended. That in itself causes a decent storm to shut down schools for a week, because the school buses can't get into the subdivisions. Kids around here love the snow since it's so unpredictable and it's a sure school-closer ... and I guess since I grew up here, I still love the few big storms we get from time to time!!!
Still waiting for a white Christmas, though -- we get most of our snow in January and February.
Meade
I'm not certain but I think the gold class from meguiars is one of the ones that you don't let dry, it takes a very thin coat and then you rub it back off right then.
Back up now...
Regarding waxes.. I want to try the Medallion line. I'm probably going to buy them from Classic cars.. the one you bought from.. as its fairly close by where I live...
Meade
-Larry
Meade
Maybe the GS-27 stuff works by "smudging" the paint. Since your Pro has a clearcoat, maybe it couldn't affect the deep scratches.
Meade
Meade: You would have been looking all day at my car, as I have several scratches, some on the same body panel. The people in my neighborhood are ruthless and nasty, and their kids are sloppy. Thing is, I never catch them. Believe me, if I could get away with electrifying the car, I would. Just to see how many fried kids I could get in a week.
Nike: I have a gash in my hood, deep enough to almost fit a key head in. That's why I got the magentic bra for the hood, to cover the scratch.
krotine
BTW Jason, when are you going to get those pics working on your site?
Meade
I've read the comments on this list about tires, but I think most folks are looking more for performance than comfort.
I am really looking for comfort!!
What tire would you recommend for the most comfortable ride possible?
Also, will changing tires really make much of a difference in comfort-level from the stock tires that came with my car? I don't want to waste money on a "fix" that doesn't work!
Thanks for any and all comments and suggestions.
DG
BTW, I don't like the tires on my 2000 ES (Bridgestone Potenza RE92s) because they are no good in the rain, they're loud as hell, and they don't last long at all. (27,500 miles and their treadwear indicators are showing.) I'll be replacing my tires next month with a set of Yokohama AVID T4 touring tires from Tire Rack. In my car's size, 195/55T15, they're about $60 apiece.
One nice thing about the Tire Rack site is that it includes comments from owners of all of the tires it sells. You can read dozens (sometimes hundreds) of comments from people who have bought the tires you're looking at. For example, the comments from owners of Acuras, Civics, Volvos and other cars that said the Yokohamas are quiet, last a long time, and still have somewhat sporty capabilities -- and they're really good in the rain -- sold me on them. Give it a try!
Meade
(BTW -- what make and size tire came with your car? Was the car purchased used; if so, are your tires the originals?)
The Firestone FR680s that came on my '99 Pro LX are subpar, to put it nicely. I'm probably going to replace them with Dunlop SP Sport A2s (the AVID T4s are a close second). Neither are supposed to be as quiet or comfortable as the Michelin X-Ones though, according to the consumer surveys on the Tire Rack site.
Beyond "touring" class, there is the all-season "passenger" class. However, I think the more comfortable touring tires will be as comfy as the passenger tires.
You'll note the FR680s are not much liked, according to the surveys. I have to agree with them. They're OK on dry, but they're a bit stiff and have very little grip on wet, icy or snow-covered roads. Even with my little 1.6L engine, I can make them spin. Yoiks!
And a correction: You said neither the FR680 or the AVID T4 are as quiet as the X-Ones. Well, according to those same customer surveys, the AVIDs got an 8.2 out of 10 for noise comfort and the X-Ones got a 7.9. So according to the surveys, the Yokos are quieter.
Meade
Actually, those scores are pretty close, so they should be similar. But the AVID T4 is still rated quieter. The continuous central tread and the highly-slanted edges of the next treads over help in this.
So far as size, I think the 2000 LX came with 185/65R14s, same as the 1999 LX.
You're right; the X-Ones do not come in 195/55R15. Neither does the Dunlop SP Sport A2. It may just be a matter of time until more vehicles come equipped with this size. However, both come in 185/65R14 (which used to be a rare size just a few years ago).
"If you don't care for hard cornering capabilities, you can also go with a tire with a higher aspect ratio -- the second number in the tire designation. It'll give you a taller sidewall that will cushion your ride more."
I talked to a Goodyear guy today who said that changing the aspect ratio will effect the odometer and speedometer. Is this true?? If so, this seems like a problem.
Also, about half the tire places I called said that a stiff ride will not be made more comfortable (softer) just by changing tires. BTW, i am driving a 2000 Protege LX with Firestone FR680 185/65--14 tires. The ride is uncomfortable to me.
Has anyone out there actually had personal experience with improving a stiff ride via replacing tires.
Thanks,
DG
And yes, I have experienced an improved ride from swapping tires. On my 1992 Protege LX, I switched tires from the stock Bridgestone Potenza RE92s and put on a set of Yokohama touring tires. There was a noticable improvement in the ride. It was quieter and softer.
Do you think the tire guy owns a Protege? Or would you rather hear from people like me who've owned three?
(BTW, If half the places you called said changing tires won't make the ride more comfortable, what did the other half say?)
Meade
It's just like the difference between dress shoes and athletic shoes. The suspension and chassis are the same. The only thing different is the padding on the bottom of your feet (tires on your wheels).
You can calculate the change in odometer reading by calculating the change in circumference (or diameter) to figure the change in speedometer and odometer readings. A 3% increase in diameter will yield a 3% reduction in speedometer (v. actual) and odometer readings. A 3% reduction in diameter will yield a 3% increase in speedometer and odometer readings.
I thought Tire Rack had such a calculator on their web site (search for "plus" or "minus" sizing). You can calculate it yourself. First calculate the existing set-up. The wheel diameter is given in inches. To figure the tire sidewall, multiply the aspect ratio by the tire width (65x185) and divide this by 100. Convert this to inches by dividing by 25.4. Now multiply this by 2 and add this to your wheel diameter (14). Repeat this exercise for other combinations you're looking at and calculate the % increase or decrease. It won't be much, although it can mean you're over the limit by a couple mph on the highway.
BTW, changing the aspect ratio may change your readings, but it depends on the individual tire and if you change your wheel diameter. For instance, going between 185/65R14 and 195/55R15 results in a difference of a fraction of 1%. Barely noticeable on the speedometer.
Thanks,
DG
Meade
'duh'
Everything seemed to be going fine, used a floor jack to get the car off the ground. I had enough room to be comfortable, albeit not excessive. Drained the oil after killing my hand removing the drain plug (TIP** don't use a crescent wrench to do this, I learned the hard way). So after this was done I tried to remove the oil filter. Can someone tell me why they need to go one step short of welding the **&#$%$# thing onto the block??? I spent over 20 minutes trying to get the stupid thing off. There was nothing doing, couldn't even budge the thing.
So I did what any real man would do, gave up and put the oil back in. I was contemplating putting the new oil I had purchased in, but I ain't wasting $30 (synthetic) oil on the first oil change.
So I went in to the dealer today and tore them a new you know what. I must have got really mad cuz they said that they wouldn't charge me labour if I brought in my oil and filter for them. On top of it all I did the right thing in the beginning and bought a mazda filter. The thing is about the size of my mouse on my computer desk. $9 for the bloody thing, a coffee filter probably does about the same.
Sorry just had to vent....
PF
You must have to put it on a hoist to get that thing off. I put all the jam I had into it, (and I'm not a small guy), couldn't even touch it.....
PF
One looks like a metal hose clamp with a handle attached to it. When you push on the handle, it supposedly closes the metal band around the circumference of the oil filter and you can loosen it this way. I have one, and it's never worked for me (not enough grip).
The other type I have looks like a socket made for oil filters. Mine is made to fit a 3/8-in socket wrench. You'll notice most oil filters have straight faces around the closed end. Just put your socket onto your wrench and pop the socket over the faceted end of the filter. Due to the limited space, I got a short (6-in) wrench handle so I can work behind the engine block.
Shoving a screwdriver though should be the method of last resort. It makes a mess and you can't move your tool around to make it easier to work with.
Before you remove the filter, make sure to put lots of paper towels under the filter and against a cooled (not hot to the touch) engine block. This will help lessen the mess as the oil comes out of the filter and the tap.
Naturally, oil the gasket on your replacement filter (I also think it's rather under-sized) and tighten it roughly 1/4-turn after hand-tightening it. This should achieve a good seal and make it easy for you to remove the next time around.
This job sounds like less and less fun....
As for ramps, especially for the P5, you might need ramp extensions so the air dam does not hit the ramp. Got the ramp and extensions at Ames.
As to tightening, I never use the wrench, hand tighten as hard as you can.
Hope this helps.
They definitely run more quietly and start up more smoothly and easily when the temperature is cold.
anyone still notice the filter difference?
I think the problem is when your seals are old. Synthetic may cause some to leak (because it dissolves and removes all the gunk that plugged the leaks). Synth oil isn't responsible for the root cause, just unmasks the problem.
I think some do have additives that cause some seals to swell. Going back to dino oil may cause these to go back to normal, depending on what material the seals are made from. If you want to switch back and play it conservative, do the switch gradually to allow your seals to "spring" back slowly. Since seals are made from elastic materials, they will spring back given time, if they're still relatively new.
Over here in Ohio, we can have cold snaps where it goes down to 10-15F (or colder!...I miss CA) for several days in a row. Since my car's garaged at night, starting in the morning isn't the issue; it's starting in the afternoon. I do notice a BIG difference between dino and synth at these temperatures.
In my girlfriend's '91 Jetta we just run 5W30 regular oil. We've had no problems w/ the winter weather the last 2 years in Calgary.
In terms of warranty, can the dealership make you change every 8000km (maximum), even if you are using synth, to stay within the warranty? What if you're using synth that says change every 20000km (or whatever they say). What if the dealership comes back at you and says, "well you didn't keep up w/ scheduled maintenance. You're SOL." ??
PF
no one have info on the filters I guess?