They are best when they are that tight. Grab the base of the wire near the square part of the "spark hole cover" and pull straight up with firm pressure. They should pop off with a nice "pop" sound. That's how mine work. Also, best to replace your factory wires every 35-40k. At least, this was the interval that the wires failed on both my '92 LX's.
One more question. The owner's manual specifies GL5 gear oil for the manual transmission. I read somewhere that GL5 has sulphur in it and sulphur eats brass synchros. I put Valvoline Synpower synthetic GL5 in my manual transmission and now I'm worried about it. Do the manuals come with GL4 or GL5 in them from the factory? Is the GL5 that Mazda specifies in the owner's manual a special dealer only GL5 like Honda MTF? I'm ready to go make a mess and put GL4 in my car.
Why don't you call and ask the service advisor at your dealership? They should know about that. Also, I would follow what the owner's manual says. If there is harm to the car, Mazda would have to pay for it, right?
My owner's manual lists two different oil capacities for my car when changing the oil with the filter. I don't know if I trust it. My question is whether or not there is a special GL5 for manual transmissions. The service advisor will direct me to the owner's manual.
I have a 2000 ES as well, but mine has the spoiler with the LED center brake light. However, in the 2000s they left the regular center brake light on the parcel shelf -- it's even got the bulb in it! All they did was unplug the pigtail on the wiring harness. I plugged mine back in and now I have both!
Here's how to get to it:
Get in your back seat with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Gently wedge the screwdriver's tip under the back of the brake light housing and pry up gently. It'll pop off the rear deck. Then turn it over. The wiring harness, socket and bulb are bayonet-mounted in the housing; twist the entire assembly counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and it'll come out, allowing you to replace the bulb and reattach the assembly. (If you need more slack than the wiring harness allows, there's an inline connector about six inches down from the housing. You can disconnect the whole thing and remove it if you want to.)
If it's clear-coated (v. chromed), then sand it down until you're satisfied. Then mask off any parts you don't want painted (such as your tires and the central hub area) and spray the sanded area with several light coats of clear-coat (lacquer or acrylic). Take your time with each coat (15 min each at least with acrylic, longer for lacquer). It'll look much better and be more durable.
Sharon, I don't know what to do about the dash scratches. I think the dash material is partly PP, and it's resistant to most solvents and is impossible to sand. If there's any "fuzz" around the scratches, you might remove these with a sharp detailing knife (like a #11 X-ACTO blade). I also think the dash is painted. You might be able to find some grey primer that's close in color and use a small hobby brush to apply the paint to cover the scratches.
The door panel (which I scratched with my knee brace) is not painted, but seems to be partly PP (polypropylene), so the same cleaning tip can be used.
ABS and HIPS are easily patched with the use of solvent you can get at a hobby store or a local plastic shop. However, you'll want to practice somewhere out of sight as it is a touchy task. You might want to just live with the scratches if they're minor or ask a local detailer if they can fix them.
This is a tsb for the 2002 protege (#0900901) regarding noise from windshield molding on the 2002 protege. I sent mazdausa an email on this requesting the details and the recommended fix just in case I have the problem and my dealer does not know how to fix it. When I get the info from mazda I will post it.
I hate paint chips. Thing I hate though is when people start blaming Mazda for their paint chips (not that I'm saying you did Hank!). Gimme a break. It's an industry-wide thing. I've said this before, but my buddy's Subaru TS wagon has ton more chips than I do AND he has rust in one of his chips. I told him to fix it ASAP, but he's not going to!! What's his problem??? Arrrghh!!
BTW, you do realize that there isn't too much benefit of double coating Meguiar's Gold class, right? From what I've read, gold class actually has some mild abrasives in it, and double coating may not work because you're probably taking off the previous layer anyway. See this thread for info on that: Gold Class
that contains their "Timing Belt Replacement Guide".
In that guide, the 2001 Mazda 2.0L DOHC (Protege and 626) engine was indicated as being of the "Interfering" type.
Through further contact with Gates, I have been assured by them that their data was in error, and said engine is the "Non-Interfering" type. They will be correcting their guide accordingly.
Sorry to have put forth misinformation, even if I did so unknowningly
What happens if you overfill the auto tranny by 1 quart?
I could get to spin the wheels(a little bit) when taking of from a dead stop on my Automatic car. Reason? more torque bieng transferred to the wheels. How? I think overfilling caused foaming, which leads to loss of lubricity of the ATF and hence very limited slippage in the clutch.
But downside was that the downshift was very hard to come by just by pressing the gas pedal.
Hi! I just found this site and group. I've been struggling with my 97 Protege's check engine light. It seems to come on for any and all reasons. In response to the computer messages, I've changed both the oxygen sensor, the speed sensor, and I've had the wire, etc all checked/tuned-up. Now when it comes on, it's kicking me out of overdrive for varying periods of time. Help! Has anyone else had a similar experience? Any suggestions on what is the base cause of the problem?
Sounds like your tranny is taking a dump in your corn flakes. Have a Mazda Dealer Service Manager call Mazda North America and have a phone consultation done. They may be able to trouble shoot this issue using your computer codes to help resolve your problem?
I added a little recently, and remember the manual saying that over filling (that much) is a problem. I strongly recommend draining (might as well start from scratch) and refilling.
Hi, I purchased my P5 just two weeks ago and love it. I have experienced no problems so far. While washing my baby a couple of days ago, I noticed a couple of paint chips. Ugh! I looked at the front-end mask and didn't like it. There is no sand and bug deflector available. Even if there were it doesn't look like it would offer much protection. I searched the net and came across a product from 3M called Scotchcal Paint Protection Film. The product sounds like it could protect certain parts of the car (hood, front-end) without affecting the paint. Does anyone have any experience with this product? Any info would be appreciated.
It was reviewed on Motor Week last week. Looks pretty good; the only evidence that it's there is a barely noticeable line in the paint. The rep from the company told Pat Goss it was warranted to protect even headlight lenses from the impact of rocks up to an inch in diameter. I have no idea how much it costs, but the guy recommended having a pro install it to ensure no bubbles or ridges as you try to lay down this big -- for lack of a better term -- clear bumper sticker across your hood. BTW, the stuff is D.O.T. approved to be placed in front of headlights.
There are two thicknesses: .040in for the painted parts and .080in for the headlamp assemblies. I have the headlamp film installed on my '99 (since spring '99). Did it myself (and my headlamps are pristine, except for some dirt collected around the edges of the film), but putting it on the headlamps is easy compared to putting it on a smooth painted surface, where trapped air bubbles would be much more noticeable. I'd definitely get someone experienced to install it.
You can find pre-cut kits for the Protege and P5 at www.stongard.com (although other resellers also carry headlamp kits, but none I know of offer the full front-end kits). I got my headlamp kit from them in '99. They didn't offer the full or semi front-end kits until 2000, or I'd have gotten that. As it is, I've got too many stone chips to bother now, but I wouldn't hesitate to get a full kit installed if I got one now (they offer full kits for current Pros and P5s). They can also refer you to local installers.
I got all excited when I saw it on MotorWeek, then I realized the front of my hood is already peppered with nicks due to all the rush-hour, bumper-to-bumper expressway driving I do. But I'll be taking a hard look at the stuff with my next car!
BTW, do you know how much the kit for the Protege costs? (I'm too lazy to go look it up myself!)
I think colour makes a big difference. I saw it on a yellow P5 and it wasn't that noticeable until you looked at it from the right angle. BUT, I think on a dark coloured car, the line b/n the hood and the film would really stand out, especially if there was any sort of dirt on the car.
Full kit (P5 or sedan) is about $400-450. Partial kit is about $200. Fog light covers is about $20. Headlamps kit is about $40-60, depending on model and year (less for 99-00 since the headlamp was a smaller unit, not being integrated with the side lamp).
Other car suppliers sell comparable headlamp kits, but I haven't seen anyone else (yet) that offers the pre-cut front-end kits (they have pictures of the pieces so you can compare them...I think the full kits also cover the front bumper and the top of the rear bumper). You could also buy rectangular sheets of the stuff and attempt to cut your own.
At the right angle, you can see it. Then again, it looks much better than a traditional cover. They do cost a bit though.
Dirt will accumulate at the edges and so may wax, so just take care around the edges.
Back in 1986 when I had my Saab, I bought a black Scotch hood-edge protector (designed for and sold by Saab at the dealership) for a little under $50. It was a textured, black strip of tape material that permanently affixed to the front edge of the hood and protected it from stone chips. Worked well and actually made the front of my "Chestnut Brown" (almost black) Saab look better.
I wonder if they still make anything like that ... may hafta go look.
Hell, you could get your whole hood repainted by a quality shop for less than the price of that 3M stuff!
When I had my 2001 Protege, I asked about getting that huge scratch painted in my hood. They told me at the dealership's body shop that it would cost $175 per panel to paint the car.
As you know, I bought that bra to cover up the big scratch instead. I still have it somewhere. I had promised it to someone on the Yahoo! group, but can't find the darn edging from it that holds it to the hood. I feel bad, because the bra is perfect except for one little tiny tear that you can't see with the edging on. Oh well.
I had the Pro in the shop today for regular maintenance. The service rep. told me that I would need to get my spark plugs replaced at 20K, about 10k earlier than the recommended interval. He showed me the plugs, so I believe him.
My question is, certainly there are better options out there than the Mazda OEM plugs. What are some of the options? I know Racing Beat recommends NGK. Is there something else I should be considering? TIA
Platinums might last longer due to greater resistance to arc erosion, but you really shouldn't leave your plugs in for longer than 30,000 miles because they will likely get cold-welded (stuck).
The Splitfires (and other multi-point plugs) just caused my engine to run very roughly (I think due the premature ignition caused by the multiple points on the electrodes). I got them out ASAP and put in cheap Champion plugs and my engine was fine.
The OEM plugs are NGK, which are very good. No need to "upgrade" from the standard.
Comments
Just be carefull with the plug boots. Try to losen them up before you yank on them.
Meade
Regards and Thank You Maltb for the compliment,
Pete
Does anyone know how to change the bulbs in the center brake light? I can't figure out how to get to the buggers.
Thanks!
Here's how to get to it:
Get in your back seat with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Gently wedge the screwdriver's tip under the back of the brake light housing and pry up gently. It'll pop off the rear deck. Then turn it over. The wiring harness, socket and bulb are bayonet-mounted in the housing; twist the entire assembly counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and it'll come out, allowing you to replace the bulb and reattach the assembly. (If you need more slack than the wiring harness allows, there's an inline connector about six inches down from the housing. You can disconnect the whole thing and remove it if you want to.)
Hope this helps!
Meade
If it's clear-coated (v. chromed), then sand it down until you're satisfied. Then mask off any parts you don't want painted (such as your tires and the central hub area) and spray the sanded area with several light coats of clear-coat (lacquer or acrylic). Take your time with each coat (15 min each at least with acrylic, longer for lacquer). It'll look much better and be more durable.
http://www.autopia-carport.com/index.php?s=&action=home
For free download of a "detailing" E-book, go to:
http://www.properautocare.com/freguidtodet.html
I am sure that everyone can get something of value from these two sources. I have no personal connection with either web site.
Sharon
Sharon, I don't know what to do about the dash scratches. I think the dash material is partly PP, and it's resistant to most solvents and is impossible to sand. If there's any "fuzz" around the scratches, you might remove these with a sharp detailing knife (like a #11 X-ACTO blade). I also think the dash is painted. You might be able to find some grey primer that's close in color and use a small hobby brush to apply the paint to cover the scratches.
The door panel (which I scratched with my knee brace) is not painted, but seems to be partly PP (polypropylene), so the same cleaning tip can be used.
ABS and HIPS are easily patched with the use of solvent you can get at a hobby store or a local plastic shop. However, you'll want to practice somewhere out of sight as it is a touchy task. You might want to just live with the scratches if they're minor or ask a local detailer if they can fix them.
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=622&location_id=193
,I found on sale at Menard's today for $2.99!!
I had about given up on finding such an appropriate and inexpensive wrench. It looks to be very well-made as well.
Frank
only bad thing is, while I was waxing I found tons of new chips on the hood
curse those paint chips!!!
I've said this before, but my buddy's Subaru TS wagon has ton more chips than I do AND he has rust in one of his chips. I told him to fix it ASAP, but he's not going to!! What's his problem??? Arrrghh!!
BTW, you do realize that there isn't too much benefit of double coating Meguiar's Gold class, right? From what I've read, gold class actually has some mild abrasives in it, and double coating may not work because you're probably taking off the previous layer anyway.
See this thread for info on that:
Gold Class
not exactly 1 quart, but almost.
Any ideas?
I had a very unique experience, but I'd like to know what theory says?
anybody?
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=540
that contains their "Timing Belt Replacement Guide".
In that guide, the 2001 Mazda 2.0L DOHC (Protege and 626) engine was indicated as being of the "Interfering" type.
Through further contact with Gates, I have been assured by them that their data was in error, and said engine is the "Non-Interfering" type. They will be correcting their guide accordingly.
Sorry to have put forth misinformation, even if I did so unknowningly
http://www.motortrend.com/may02/care/care_f.html
Meade
I could get to spin the wheels(a little bit) when taking of from a dead stop on my Automatic car. Reason? more torque bieng transferred to the wheels.
How?
I think overfilling caused foaming, which leads to loss of lubricity of the ATF and hence very limited slippage in the clutch.
But downside was that the downshift was very hard to come by just by pressing the gas pedal.
BTW, my Pro is manual...but I am going to change the fluid to Redline MT90...but that stuff is expensive!!!! $13/quart :O
-old head
Meade
You can find pre-cut kits for the Protege and P5 at www.stongard.com (although other resellers also carry headlamp kits, but none I know of offer the full front-end kits). I got my headlamp kit from them in '99. They didn't offer the full or semi front-end kits until 2000, or I'd have gotten that. As it is, I've got too many stone chips to bother now, but I wouldn't hesitate to get a full kit installed if I got one now (they offer full kits for current Pros and P5s). They can also refer you to local installers.
BTW, do you know how much the kit for the Protege costs? (I'm too lazy to go look it up myself!)
Meade
Partial kit is about $200.
Fog light covers is about $20.
Headlamps kit is about $40-60, depending on model and year (less for 99-00 since the headlamp was a smaller unit, not being integrated with the side lamp).
Other car suppliers sell comparable headlamp kits, but I haven't seen anyone else (yet) that offers the pre-cut front-end kits (they have pictures of the pieces so you can compare them...I think the full kits also cover the front bumper and the top of the rear bumper). You could also buy rectangular sheets of the stuff and attempt to cut your own.
At the right angle, you can see it. Then again, it looks much better than a traditional cover. They do cost a bit though.
Dirt will accumulate at the edges and so may wax, so just take care around the edges.
I wonder if they still make anything like that ... may hafta go look.
Hell, you could get your whole hood repainted by a quality shop for less than the price of that 3M stuff!
Meade
Meade
As you know, I bought that bra to cover up the big scratch instead.
My question is, certainly there are better options out there than the Mazda OEM plugs. What are some of the options? I know Racing Beat recommends NGK. Is there something else I should be considering? TIA
The Splitfires (and other multi-point plugs) just caused my engine to run very roughly (I think due the premature ignition caused by the multiple points on the electrodes). I got them out ASAP and put in cheap Champion plugs and my engine was fine.
The OEM plugs are NGK, which are very good. No need to "upgrade" from the standard.