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Comments
Just be carefull with the plug boots. Try to losen them up before you yank on them.
Meade
Regards and Thank You Maltb for the compliment,
Pete
Does anyone know how to change the bulbs in the center brake light? I can't figure out how to get to the buggers.
Thanks!
Here's how to get to it:
Get in your back seat with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Gently wedge the screwdriver's tip under the back of the brake light housing and pry up gently. It'll pop off the rear deck. Then turn it over. The wiring harness, socket and bulb are bayonet-mounted in the housing; twist the entire assembly counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and it'll come out, allowing you to replace the bulb and reattach the assembly. (If you need more slack than the wiring harness allows, there's an inline connector about six inches down from the housing. You can disconnect the whole thing and remove it if you want to.)
Hope this helps!
Meade
If it's clear-coated (v. chromed), then sand it down until you're satisfied. Then mask off any parts you don't want painted (such as your tires and the central hub area) and spray the sanded area with several light coats of clear-coat (lacquer or acrylic). Take your time with each coat (15 min each at least with acrylic, longer for lacquer). It'll look much better and be more durable.
http://www.autopia-carport.com/index.php?s=&action=home
For free download of a "detailing" E-book, go to:
http://www.properautocare.com/freguidtodet.html
I am sure that everyone can get something of value from these two sources. I have no personal connection with either web site.
Sharon
Sharon, I don't know what to do about the dash scratches. I think the dash material is partly PP, and it's resistant to most solvents and is impossible to sand. If there's any "fuzz" around the scratches, you might remove these with a sharp detailing knife (like a #11 X-ACTO blade). I also think the dash is painted. You might be able to find some grey primer that's close in color and use a small hobby brush to apply the paint to cover the scratches.
The door panel (which I scratched with my knee brace) is not painted, but seems to be partly PP (polypropylene), so the same cleaning tip can be used.
ABS and HIPS are easily patched with the use of solvent you can get at a hobby store or a local plastic shop. However, you'll want to practice somewhere out of sight as it is a touchy task. You might want to just live with the scratches if they're minor or ask a local detailer if they can fix them.
http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=622&location_id=193
,I found on sale at Menard's today for $2.99!!
I had about given up on finding such an appropriate and inexpensive wrench. It looks to be very well-made as well.
Frank
only bad thing is, while I was waxing I found tons of new chips on the hood
curse those paint chips!!!
I've said this before, but my buddy's Subaru TS wagon has ton more chips than I do AND he has rust in one of his chips. I told him to fix it ASAP, but he's not going to!! What's his problem??? Arrrghh!!
BTW, you do realize that there isn't too much benefit of double coating Meguiar's Gold class, right? From what I've read, gold class actually has some mild abrasives in it, and double coating may not work because you're probably taking off the previous layer anyway.
See this thread for info on that:
Gold Class
not exactly 1 quart, but almost.
Any ideas?
I had a very unique experience, but I'd like to know what theory says?
anybody?
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=540
that contains their "Timing Belt Replacement Guide".
In that guide, the 2001 Mazda 2.0L DOHC (Protege and 626) engine was indicated as being of the "Interfering" type.
Through further contact with Gates, I have been assured by them that their data was in error, and said engine is the "Non-Interfering" type. They will be correcting their guide accordingly.
Sorry to have put forth misinformation, even if I did so unknowningly
http://www.motortrend.com/may02/care/care_f.html
Meade
I could get to spin the wheels(a little bit) when taking of from a dead stop on my Automatic car. Reason? more torque bieng transferred to the wheels.
How?
I think overfilling caused foaming, which leads to loss of lubricity of the ATF and hence very limited slippage in the clutch.
But downside was that the downshift was very hard to come by just by pressing the gas pedal.
BTW, my Pro is manual...but I am going to change the fluid to Redline MT90...but that stuff is expensive!!!! $13/quart :O
-old head
Meade
You can find pre-cut kits for the Protege and P5 at www.stongard.com (although other resellers also carry headlamp kits, but none I know of offer the full front-end kits). I got my headlamp kit from them in '99. They didn't offer the full or semi front-end kits until 2000, or I'd have gotten that. As it is, I've got too many stone chips to bother now, but I wouldn't hesitate to get a full kit installed if I got one now (they offer full kits for current Pros and P5s). They can also refer you to local installers.
BTW, do you know how much the kit for the Protege costs? (I'm too lazy to go look it up myself!)
Meade
Partial kit is about $200.
Fog light covers is about $20.
Headlamps kit is about $40-60, depending on model and year (less for 99-00 since the headlamp was a smaller unit, not being integrated with the side lamp).
Other car suppliers sell comparable headlamp kits, but I haven't seen anyone else (yet) that offers the pre-cut front-end kits (they have pictures of the pieces so you can compare them...I think the full kits also cover the front bumper and the top of the rear bumper). You could also buy rectangular sheets of the stuff and attempt to cut your own.
At the right angle, you can see it. Then again, it looks much better than a traditional cover. They do cost a bit though.
Dirt will accumulate at the edges and so may wax, so just take care around the edges.
I wonder if they still make anything like that ... may hafta go look.
Hell, you could get your whole hood repainted by a quality shop for less than the price of that 3M stuff!
Meade
Meade
As you know, I bought that bra to cover up the big scratch instead.
My question is, certainly there are better options out there than the Mazda OEM plugs. What are some of the options? I know Racing Beat recommends NGK. Is there something else I should be considering? TIA
The Splitfires (and other multi-point plugs) just caused my engine to run very roughly (I think due the premature ignition caused by the multiple points on the electrodes). I got them out ASAP and put in cheap Champion plugs and my engine was fine.
The OEM plugs are NGK, which are very good. No need to "upgrade" from the standard.