Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

chikoo

>>> How do you like your ES? <<<

Its a love-hate relationship, just as with my spouse. I hate it that is noisy on bad roads. I hate it that it gets jarring on pothole/cracked roads, but it finally makes up for it with a great sex...err...i mean drive. Fun to drive!!

Actually, I have a Taurus as a second car.
But me and my wife are always fighting as to who shall have the Pro each day.

ashutoshsm

The 1.6l will/might have better gas mileage, provided you don't flog it hard. Check on the main Protege board, post a query there for a quick impromptu survey (that'll keep the count in the 'Problems" board down as well - or we'll have more misleading, not-even-nitpicky posts making it seem the Protege is more problematic than it really is!

FYI, my 1.5l, which I happen to drive too hard for its own good (always quick to get to and slightly above speed limits in the city and on the freeway, and usually at or near the front of the pack, and usually driving the car at at least 8/10ths on exit/on -ramps and most turns), yields 25+/30+ city/highway, and has been as high as 28/34+ when I drive more sedately for an entire tankful (very rare!).

ashutoshsm

This is the "Care and Maintenance" board, not the "Problems" board - so post away (although a wider audience frequents the main "Mazda Protege" dsicussion anyway!)

mazdafun

I average about 28-29mpg on mostly local driving when I take it easy. I have the 1.6L engine mated to an automatic.

I did upgrade the speakers, added alloys with Dunlop SP Sport A2s and the strut tower brace. The original speakers needed more oomph and I just wanted alloys (though the stock Firestone FR680s were poor tires, especially on wet roads), and the strut brace has really stiffened up the front end.

curious38

I have just a couple questions more, if thats ok w/ ya'll.

What are some of the maintainence schedules you think I should know about when considering this car? Is it like Honda's where the timing belt needs replacement prior to 100M? Breaks? Etc.?

Thanks again all. I'll definately research more of this.

ashutoshsm

60K - timing belt is recommende, except in CA (and perhaps a couple of other markets?). I bought mine used at 55K, and had the full 60K service performed. Cost me around $600 at a dealership, but you could get it done for less if you skipped non-essential stuff, or other regular stuff (coolant flush, spark plugs cpl other things) or did those at a different time, from different garages etc. I remember the timing belt costs barely $20-30, but it had 2.5 hours of labour (or 1.5?) and the total cost ranged from 175 or so at the least, to 240 (-10%) which is what the Mazda dealership charged me, and, coz they had my car over a weekend, they gave me a free loaner car (99 Mazda Protege LX)!

FYI, this (all of the variations) is a non-interference engine, and a broken timing belt will just leave your car dead, and in need of a new belt - unlike Honda/Toyota where valves will be smashed to smithereens

curious38

Hey Protege owners. . . .

Tell me what you think about this used Protege I found. Its a '99 Protege LX, $35,000 miles, all the "power options" (which I actually don't care too much about), spoiler, cd, etc.

Drove it yesterday. Since I'm used to driving old Lincoln's/Buicks/Trucks, any economy car feels really weird. This felt pretty similar to a Honda I was considering, and also Saturns I have driven in the past.

Did a Carfax on it today. The dealer had said they bought it at a car auction (its a Ford dealer and she told me they basically do this so they don't have a lot full of used Fords). Carfax said it was a lease/commercial vehicle. This doesn't alarm me as much as it might otherwise, as I have friends who drive work vehicles and have put 30,000 miles on those in a year, and this one seems to have low miles for being a '99.

Lets hear your thoughts!

mazdafun

Still, I'd have it inspected by your mechanic.

If the mechanic OKs it and it doesn't seem abused, it's a great car. You'll get used to the higher maneuverability of it in a little while, but I'm curious about your looking at a compact when you're used to driving full-size cars and trucks (commuter?).

curious38

Why am I buying a smaller car? Because I'm 24 and tired of driving a car my dad had for me in college. If I don't go w/ this or another Mazda, it will likely be a Honda or something similar. I'm not into big cars, they're just all I've had to drive before.

mazdafun

I've always liked compacts/subcompacts...well, not the Firenza or Pinto that my dad had.

Same points: more economical, easier to park, more fun to toss around.

Anyway, Proteges, Civics, Corollas and Sentras are all OK if they've been kept well. Out of the current crop of vehicles, I prefer the Protege. Although it isn't as fuel-efficient, its handling and layout appeal to me more than the others.

dr_kaboom

Hi All -

Real quick question - any advice on how to deal with minor scratches? Just found the first on my 2002 ES (about 3900 mi).. about 2-3 inches long and about 1/4 inch wide, maybe 1/8 inch deep. Nice black color on the scratch. I have some touch-up paint from Mazda - think that will do the trick? Anyways thanks for your advice.

Dr_Kaboom

maltb

sounds like a heck of a scratch. you can try to fill it with touch-up paint but if you want it to look good, a body shop is in your future.

chikoo

that is a cut in the sheet metal!!

alternator

http://www.langka.com/

Please let us know if you end up trying this product. Also, most dealers know of touch-up guys who come to their place periodically and do minor paint repairs far cheaper (probably without a warranty) than body shops.

protege_fan

Mother's is now marketing the langka product (or very similar) under their own name now too...I just can't find either in retail stores.

www.mothers.com

alternator

my posting #19 in Town Hall discussion "Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair". Web site mentioned there is quite informative.

mazdafun

Wow, a size 35 just fits in place of the 21R that's stock (Panasonic, in mine).

Battery was starting to go (slow cold starts), so I figured I'd better replace it this weekend when it got above freezing.

Strut tower brace makes battery replacement harder. Figures I'd put one in before I have to replace the battery.

Check this toolset out:

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_Ses- sionID=@@@@1531298515.1044290627@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccfgadchglmd- hflcehgcemgdffmdflf.0&vertical=TOOL&bidsite=&pid=0093- 0593000

I used it for the first time when replacing the battery in the parking lot at the store (when I saw it in the hardware store, I had to get it...I have way more wrenches and sockets than I need). Nice, though I was in the funny position of not having sufficient clearance for the handle around the studs on the strut towers.

alternator

Here is an interesting web page that supports the idea that you usually do not need to resurface rotors when pads are replaced:

http://autosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency14f.asp

maltb

Of course you might not find out until after the pads don't seat properly. A good non-directional finish can be done on a bench lathe using a drill with a sanding disc like the 3M Roloc discs. I'm not sure where that clown pulled his million dollar figure for on car lathes either. Turning rotors is just one more step to making sure it's all done right.

oregonaj

We have a 2002 Mazda Protege ES with the 2.0L engine. Just getting ready to rotate tires and can't find lug nut torque settings in the owners manual. Does anyone happen to know.

Thanks, Jim

mazdafun

It's in the emergency section (as in how to change to the temp spare), not the maintenance section.

97Nm is the middle of the range, I think. That translates to about 72lb-ft.

reitrof

If that helps.

bubrrycr

hi-
I feel like I have read somewhere that ou sholdn't put the pro5 through an automatic car wash with the roof rack on? Has anybody heard this or am I imagining? Does anyone do automatic carwash with the roof rack on? is it ok?

please let me know...too much road salt, and too cold and i want to wash

narenji

I have a WRX wagon, and i've been through the car wash a few times. No problems. But, my wagon only has the roof rails, and no crossbars. If you had crossbars, something might get stuck on them... But most SUVs have roof rails with crossbars, and they go thru car washes just fine...

goldenb0y

Hi all, First time here in the town hall. You all have some great advice.
My 2002 Protege is fast approaching 30k. I was thinking about taking it to the dealer to get the 30k full service maintance done. After what the dealer quoted the services at $550 makes me re-think the idea. I bought the car new and been basically changing the oil and rotating the tires. Is the service really worth that much?

dinu01

Change:

oil+filter
spark plugs
tranny fluid+coolant (although they aren't due yet on Mazda's svc intervals)

check brakes (might need pads and the rotors machined, the handbrake adjusted)

Dinu

mazdafun

Lubricate your locks, hinges, change air filter. Check for any loose nuts or bolts on your chassis. Inspect your CV boots (getting a set of ramps and a creeper [a piece of corrugated cardboard will do] will make this much easier).

60,000 is the big one as you'll likely change your timing and accessory belts. That's a pain. If you live in CA or other state that has similar regulations, I think the timing belt change is at a much higher mileage. Luckily, in case the timing belt breaks, you have a non-interference engine, so all you'll need is a new belt and not new valves, pistons etc.

goldenb0y

Ya, I about fell out of my chair when the dealer quoted that service at $550. What, are they going to give me a new engine on that deal? It sounded pretty ridiculous. I can't imagine any paying that price. But, I guess there is always a sucker. Thanks for the additional advice.

chikoo

There are more suckers than u could imagine.
All my friends cough it up...and then cry on my shoulders how much it costs to keep their car running.....

tomciviletti

Ha. Ha, Ha, Ha. Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha!

narenji

you also don't have to go to a dealer to get that service done if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself. i've had an independent shop do it once or twice for around $170 altogether. there are lots of bolts to tighten, and i doubt even a dealer does them all. i had no mechanical experience before my first spark plug change on my 93 MX6, and i've been able to do everything since. changing the plugs is probably the hardest part of the service. the other stuff is relatively easy. good luck.

alternator

says to tighten "bolts and nuts on chassis and body" every 24 months or 30,000 miles (whichever comes first). But nowhere have I found a reference as to just what bolts and nuts they are specifically alluding to. I keep my new cars an average of 60-70,000 miles, and I have never gone all over any car I've ever had tightening bolts and nuts (other than overhead valve cover) on a regular basis. Comments anyone?

mazdafun

Unless something went wrong at the plant or if you drive over pock-marked roads, you'll likely not need to tighten them.

If you drive around Detroit (or Cincinnati...wow, this winter did a job on our roads), you may want to just check every bolt you can find under your car.

axjoke

We had bad thunderstorm including hail about the size of a quarter. Expecting damage i inspected my car but didn't see dents like i've seen from other storms. However, in about 6 different places on my hood i noticed chipped paint (not just the front, but all throughout the hood). I obviously don't check it every day but i probably do at least 1 a month and i've never seen any of those spots. My question is is it possible for hail to chip the paint and not make dents? And would the paint be any softer on the hood than elsewhere? I did hit a deer, so the hood was repainted about a year ago. Thanks for any input!

James

mazdafun

If the hail was hard enough. Ice is a very hard substance.

boggse

Does anyone here buy oil filters in bulk on-line to save money? I was trying to figure out, with a 7,500 mile service interval, at what point I would actually end up saving money. I can't seem to figure out if it would ever be worth the trouble.

mazdafun

But I think they come 24 to a case or something like that so I only bought 12. No savings at that point. Might if you bought a couple cases with a few friends.

Of course, now that my wife and I have cars that use the same filter, I may buy them by the case-load (ones for the 626 though; they have more capacity than the smaller ones used in the Protege, and I use costly synthetic oil...I end up changing the oil with the filter rather than the filter with the oil).

drumm01

Okay here is a silly question but how often do you folks get the oil and filter replace?
  The dealer makes a big point to say every 3,000 while my Pro book says every 3,750.

Thanks,
Drumm09

boggse

Every 5,000 miles until 15,000 miles, then every 7,500 miles from there on. I use Mobil 1 10W30 and the large capacity Mazda Oil Filters.

This is what I did for my 2001 ES and what I am doing for my 2003 P5.

drumm01

Thank you for the information boggse. It really seemed to me that 3,000 miles was too little. It makes more sense for me to change oil and filter every 5,000 miles instead.. Mind if I ask you why you change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles after 15,000? Is the engine better prepared after that?

I drive a 2002 Pro ES and just today I reached 14,000, I bough it exactly one year ago. I take it to the dealer (Baltimore Maryland) for oil changes being that I am on their free program but I am not sure what kind of oil and filters they use. I will defenitly ask next time I am there which should be in another two weeks or so. I would think they use their large capacity Mazda Oil Filters.??

Well thanks for the info, I couldn&#146;t be happier with my Protégé, my previous car was a 1988 Mazda 323 with 125,000 miles. Looking forward to see what the Mazda 3 looks like!!

Drumm

boggse

I just like to make sure the engine is completely "broken-in" before I go to a long oil change interval.

The default oil filter you get for the 2.0L is rather small. I ask them to use the one from the 2.5L V6 instead since it fits. It costs around $6 either way. I like getting more for my money. A larger capacity oil filter should theoretically have more surface area, so it will provide better flow and last longer.

I haven't opened up one of each to compare the innards, so I have no proof that the larger filter is better. It is an assumption on my part.

kizeh

Curious. My P5 manual says 7500 miles, or 5000 miles under "heavy" driving conditions. The dealer claimed 3000, but they're greedy. I compromised, and am following the 5000 mile schedule.

dinu01

4000kms - 2500miles. Overkill perhaps, but I drive it a lot and need this car to last many years.

In Canada, the manual states 8000kms (5000miles) FYI.

Dinu

drumm01

I am going to have to agree with you on that kizeh. I think dealers are just a little too greedy as well. My ES manual says every 7,500 or 5,000 miles under heavy traffic. To be safe, I am changing it every 4,000 which in my opinion is extremely conservative being that I don't drive in heavy traffic. But HEY, better be safe than sorry!!

mazdafun

Whenever the oil looks dirty (did take longer with the larger filter) or when the weather shifts (i.e. in mid-spring and mid-fall). This usually works out to be just past 3000 miles with the standard Protege filter and about 5000 with the filter for the 626. Now I just have to finish off the 5 standard filters I have left before I switch full-time to the larger filters.

dinu01

So are you guys recommending I ask for the 626 filter next time I do an oil change?

What are the benefits of doing this?

Dinu

mdaffron

At about $60, it'll save you the hassle of doing it when it does occur and really inconvenience you ... plus this is a 10-minute DIY job ...

Change the plug wires.

After my experience with two different Proteges, believe me, it's a hassle sputtering to the closest dealership or auto parts store when they do go between 30,000 and 40,000 miles. Not sure what the specified maintenance interval is on these things, but I do it every time I replace the plugs (every 30K miles). If you want a recent example of how sudden and scary a deal this little occurrence can be, read posts 1560-1564 in the Mazda Protege Problems discussion.

Meade

boggse

Make sure you ask for the V6 filter. The 4 cylinder is the same as they put on the Protege. The benefit is better filtration. How you enjoy this benefit is up to you. It could be a longer oil change interval or a sense of security in knowing your oil is being filtered that much better or a testosterone induced "bigger is better" response. Personally, I like the longer oil change interval and sense of security.

dinu01

Dinu

tomciviletti

There are diffent reasons for changing oil. It needs to be changed because it get dirty with particles smaller than the filter removes. The filter itself can only hold so much dirt. Oil picks up dirt from metal sloughing off the engine, from unburned carbon in the fuel, and from junk in the intake air that gets past the air filter. A new car looses more metal, so short change ntervals are good. Using hi octane fuel or having an engine miss leasd to more unburned carbon. Driving in a dry dusty environment will foul oil faster than driving in a damp, clean environment. short trips and sitting unused tends to add acids and water to oil, which is not good.

Synthetic oil breaks down more slowly than natural.

All things considered, I change my castrol syntec twice a year, which is at about 3800 miles [I don't drive much]. I would not be afraid to leave it in for 7500 miles if I put those miles on in 6 months.