Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

sugoiya

someone knew of some magic dust that will make the scratch go away. ;-)

Thanks to you all. Even if there is no such a thing I'm relieved to know that I can minimize the problem with a file, some sandpaper, mag polish, clear coat and ALOT of elbow grease. I guess everyone knows how I'll be spending my Labor day weekend. Rub, rub, rub, cuss, cuss, cuss!

spencer19

For the help.

Boggse - you're not paranoid if they're really out to get you :-) Anyway, you're probably right, the lug nuts are OK. I was remembering the overly-tight factory oil filter, and worried the same person put the lug nuts on.

I'll see how the tires do this winter.

Ashut and Protege fan - thanks for the info. I already have almost everything in the Meguiars august special. My P5 is silver. After reading a lot of posts, and some websites, I went to several places looking for more stuff. I got a cotton chenille wash mitt and some microfiber towels. I also have Meguiars Quik Detailer, Quik Wax, and Deep Crystal car wash.

I looked at waxes, there's so many choices. Just in the paste waxes, I looked at the ones with carnuba. Interesting how the size went up as the price went down. Meguiars, 11oz, 9.89 (.90 per oz); Mothers, 12oz, 7.89 (.66 per oz); Turtle Wax, 14oz, 4.98 (.36 per oz). I went for the Turtle Wax, I'll see how I like it.

I washed my old Tracer to get it ready to sell. I used another poster's suggestion of 1/3 iso alcohol, 2/3 distilled water for the windows - it works great!

I have some more questions, but I'll put them in a separate post.

Terri

spencer19

Me again, picking everybody's brain :-)

Washing cars: a friend told me to put some kerosene in the wash water, said it makes the car shine. I've never heard of this - any comments?

I read a post somewhere here that told about keeping the engine compartment clean by hosing it out with plain water once in awhile. I'd like to do this, too - are there any parts I should not get wet?

Floor mats - I understand their intended purpose, but they're driving me crazy. I took them out of my old car, and am about to take the drivers side one out of my P5. It has the little grippy things on the bottom, but my getting in and out of the car makes it constantly move forward, and I have to keep moving it back in place - every day. To me, it's not worth the nuisance. Anyone have a suggestion before I ditch the darn thing?

Thanks everyone!

Terri

alternator

My 2002 Protege sedan has a "prong" sticking up from the floor just forward of the seat, and a matching hole in the factory mat fits over the prong and keeps the mat in place. I substitute a piece of carpet for the factory mats during the winter, and just punched a hole in the appropriate place in the carpet to fit over the prong. If you don't have such a prong, couldn't you fasten a strong cord to the rear of the mat and tie it to some part under the seat.

alternator

Oh, please no kerosene! That will only remove any wax protection and then start removing your paint.

Re engine cleaning, auto parts stores sell engine cleaners that can be sprayed (onto metal surfaces only) and rinsed off, but these tend to eventually remove paint from under-hood parts (not bad if used carefully and very infrequently). Keep all cleaners away from electrical parts and cover electrical parts when rinsing.

protege_fan

I know of several people that have sprayed their P5 engines w/out covering anything and had no troubles. However, I have also heard of some people spraying their P5 engines and having water get in less desirable places, causing them some problems. I'd play it safe and cover electrical parts w/ something (ie. plastic bags), as Alternator previously stated.

icvci

On all of my vehicles I've always used a low pressure rinse on the engine, dishsoap, a rag and a sponge. If you rinse it often and keep oil off things it'll stay pretty clean.

If you'd like the link to a great deatailing site, shoot an email to seventy88@yahoo.com.

boggse

If you are missing your floor mat retention clip on the driver's side, stop by your dealer and ask for one. Mine were missing on my Miata, and my dealer ordered them for me for free.

spencer19

I won't use kerosene!!

I checked my floor mats. The drivers side one does have a hole in the center of the back edge. There's nothing to fit it over, though, but there is a screw about three inches further back - on the hump under the drivers seat. Is that where the retention clip is anchored to, boggse? I'll check with my dealer about getting one, it seems like that hole is supposed to fit over something. I am so glad for this message board - I would have never known about a retention clip for the floor mat - it's not mentioned in the owners manual, and some friends of mine had never heard of a car having such a thing. If it keeps the mat in place, that will be great!

Thanks for the engine rinsing suggestions, too - I'll have a garage go over the engine with me so I'm sure of what parts not to get wet, and I'll be careful.

Terri

boggse

Yes, that screw on the "hump" is where the retention clip is anchored.

tomciviletti

The trick in washing a car is get off the dirt while leaving the wax. that's why formulated car washes like turtle wax's are a good idea. If you are going to wax the car after washing it, I would use a healthy amount of dish detergent like Dawn. But Kerosene would be bad for the wax, bad for the paint, and bad for the washer.

As to engine washing, every few years is usually often enough. I do it at the coin-op self-serve joint. ry to keep away from the electricals like the fuseblock and ignition, or cover them with plastic as mentioned previously, but I have not had a problem with distributor-less engines. The commercial degreasers are eco-nightmares.

boggse

I use Simple Green to clean things up about once a year or so.

sglator

Is anybody who has his own experience can advise some good reliable repare shop in Albany area for Mazda "Protege"?
I'm really appreciating your help.
Thanks

doublesix

I have a 1999 Protege ES with 43K miles. Starting from 35k miles, I have heard some groaning sound from underneath of the car when driving at a speed under 35mph. I feel that the car is not old enough to have some problem in the suspension system, but can't be sure. How do you think?

And strangely I could not find any information in the user's manual regarding when I should have the automatic transmission fluid replaced. When do you usually get the fluid changed?

Many thanks.

iamz

First change at 30K on tranny fluid. If it wasn't done I'd have it done now.

No idea about the groaning.

davidinaz

Hi folks. I had the experience of replacing one of my tires on my car yesterday. I had heard that one tire for my car is expensive. My trip for one tire turned out to be around $115.00.

Question is, may I go to a higher profile tire and if I do, what will happen? Do I need to do anything with my speedometer or anything like that.

The tires on my car are more expensive than my other car, a Toyota Camry 4-door.

Thanks.
Dave

reitrof

Hi Dave,

The this tire calculator to determine speedo error.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

eejitt

Hi all,

This is hope against hope. If the calipers on my protege have ceased, can I do anything about it, or do I need to change them?

davidinaz

Hi all. I just took "my" (actually my wife's) Protege in for a 30,000 mile check up.

They did the following things: (All from the work order as processed by the dealership)
1. Changed the oil
2. Complete fuel system service flush of injectors, de-sludge throttle body and de-carbon the engine.
3. Power steering system flush
4. Brake System flush
5. Auto Transmission flush.
6. Flush engine cooling system
7. Tune up.

Now, I understand the oil change, the transmission fluid and the engine cooling. But the other items. Were those needed? My car (a Camry) does not appear to have the brake system flushed or the power steering fluid replaced.

Plus, I am asking because for preventative maintenance trip today was $619.00.

Was it needed?

Please advise.

Thanks.

Dave

alternator

I believe a reputable dealer would have itemized the things he planned to include in the 30,000 mile service, and he would have provided a cost estimate. Also, he would have explained why he included all those items going beyond the Mazda suggested 30,000 mile service (namely Items 2 thru 6), then left it up to you to decide which items you felt might improve vehicle longevity and would be willing to pay for. Personally, at 30,000 miles, the only flush I would approve would be the engine coolant.

dinu01

I did the oil, coolant and AT tranny flushes at 30K. They have a pretty big list of items and all dealers will try to push you to do it all. Personally I plan to keep it for a long time too, but can't see the purpose of some of those things.

I did the brakes a bit later (machined front rotors , installed new pads, adjusted rear drums+hand brake) then flushed the brake fluid. I wouldn;t do it otherwise. When brakes need to be fixed, the fluid is too.

Dinu

mazdafun

#2 is optional. Should have asked if you wanted to do it before doing it.

The only items I'd question are steering fliud flush and brake fluid flush. I've never done the former and I only do the latter when the brake fluid turns dark.

I can see flushing coolant and AT fluid at 30k miles in addition to the other items though. You think 30k is costly, wait until you replace the timing belt at 60k. I'd ask about replacing the water pump and accessory belts at the same time since they'll all be removed or easily accessible then.

tomciviletti

It depends on the cause. Is the fluid moving freely into and out of the caliper? Are they rusty? Have springs become distached? Are the pads worn to nothing? Maybe try tapping lightly with a hammer. Don't spray lubricant on the friction surfaces.

cnollkamper

Service departments. They almost always bundle numerous services for all service intervals that are unnecessary for most people. It is a good idea to read long term reports , like the ones Edmunds posts, they are always reporting on how they specifically ask for what the Owners manual recommends- nothing more, and nothing less, and get it in writing.

repj

I am on vacation and don't have my 99 manual protege ES with me. I just hit 31,000 miles and was thinking about the 30K checkup. I called the dealer near me today and they want $630 for the 30K checkup. that seems to be rather exhorbitant to me.

I don't have my manual with me. What does the manual recommend that I get done to my Protege at 30K?

Do you think that it is okay to go to an independent service station to get those things done?

Thanks!

Rob

mazdafun

I skipped it. I replaced the plugs and checked the accessory belts, in a addition to the oil, oil filter, air filter and tire rotation. I lubed the locks and hinges. I do have the coolant changed every 3 years, irrespective of mileage.

I think most of the additional service are "inspections", though I think most places would change your plugs and check/adjust the idle.

protege123

Hi,

I just bought today a new protege lx. I was planning on using it for a long road trip tomorrow, about a 7 hour drive.
Would that be ok? Or do new cars need a break-in period? I wasn't sure if it would be ok to drive my protege for that long so soon after I bought it. Or is that ok?

Thanks for any advice you may have.

jmcknight2

- Most manufacturers recommend that you vary your engine speed, don't use cruise control, and avoid hard braking and acceleration during the first 500 - 1000 miles or so. If you have to be on the Interstate, try to change speeds frequently. Otherwise, enjoy - and congratulations!

mazdafun

What a big difference new oil makes! I love the way the engine revs so freely with fresh synthetic (now 5W30 due to the lower temperatures) and a new filter! I'm glad the weather warmed up this weekend. It made the work much more pleasant than it could've been.

But I hate getting to the oil filter. And a bunch of oil spills once I spin the filter back a bit. Good thing I was wearing an old, dark shirt.

I was wondering why the oil started looking so dirty before 5,000 miles though (I usually go about 7500 miles with synthetic and the larger-capacity filter). I was using the smallish OEM filter. After I use up my remaining stash of these (3), I'm switching to the larger one that WAS spec'd for the V6 626 (aftermarket mfrs still make the bigger ones...the Mazda ones are now the smaller-capacity filter).

moparbad

I purchased old style larger filters from Trussville Mazda. They have a limited supply available. What reason is there to use different weight oil than 5W30 Synthetic? Full synthetic 5W30 is appropriate all year.

mazdafun

It can get really hot here (sometimes), and it's permissible according to the owner's manual. But mostly, it's a lot easier to find 10W30 than 5W30 (it seems the stores don't stock as much of 5W30, or it just sells out first).

davidinaz

Hi all. Does anyone have any idea how long tires on a Mazda Protege are supposed to last.
My wife has the standard Bridgestone Potenza
She has about 31,000 miles on them now...
Just want to know how much longer I have before I need to take the big plunge!
Thanks
Dave

dinu01

They last for about 20K miles IMO. These tires wear-out too quickly. See the main Protege Sedan section and search for tires. Don't get RE92s again - seriously!

Dinu

etrast

I have a 01 protege ES due for 30000 mile service. Just called the dealer and they quoted me 400 dollars. Does that sound like a reasonable amount? The service includes coolant flush, brake flush/bleeding, oil change, spark plugs change etc.

Thanks

civiletti

They want to replace the brake fluid? That seems quite early. I don't see why brqke fluid can't go until at least you do a brake reline.

You can change coolant and spark plugs yourself with a few tools. I'd change spark plug wires as well.

mdaffron

I had them take off a few things I do myself or have done elsewhere -- air filter change, oil change and tire rotation being a few of them. My total came to around 230 bucks.

Get them to take off the few things you want them to, then have them itemize each remaining job. Then see which way is more attractive to your wallet.

My dealer gladly faxes me a list of the items performed on each service ahead of time, so I can (a) compare it against what Mazda recommends in my owner's manual, and (b) check off things I don't need or want them to do.

Meade

mazdafun

I change the (relatively) easy stuff myself: oil, oil filter (this can be a pain), air filter, plugs, plug wires, wheel rotation. I let the shop deal with the rest for reasons of time, difficulty or because I can't easily dispose of used fluids in a responsible manner. I replaced brake pads and accessory belts on my previous car (an '89 323), but I find these jobs more time-consuming on my '99 Protege so am willing to ask my shop to do these now. And after having done drum brakes once, I'm plenty happy to pay the shop to do these for me in the future.

At that 30k mile service, I'd do the following (if not already done otherwise): coolant flush, brake inspection, oil & oil filter change, change air filter, change plugs (wires too, if you're experiencing rough idle or start or other symptoms that may indicate worn wires), AT fluid, inspect accessory belts, inspect coolant vacuum brake and fuel lines, wheel rotation, inspect struts, strut boots, drive boots and steering rack boots, lubricate locks, latches, hinges and any suspension joints that require lubrication (none I can think of). Tighten any loose bolts. A lot of inspection is just visual. You can easily do these yourself while under the car, especially with the wheels off. Just look for cracking, swelling or other signs of wear and aging.

bballa

This is the second oil change for my p5, 7200 miles, and I switched to mobil 1 10w-30 and used a purolater pureONE filter. Never used synthetic oil before but I will report back if I notice any difference or improvements. Is there anyone that has long term experience with mobil 1 or any synthetic oil, pureONE filter, in their p5?

mdaffron

I don't feel like retyping my message here. Go over to the Protege5 discussion where you posted the same question and you'll find my answer.

Meade

jbbuggy

97 Protege', 68K on her. I've had her for 3 years, I'm the fourth owner (Carfax is great).

Haven't had any real problems with her since I bought her. We replaced the brake pads early on and I can tell she's a "used" car, but nothing major. Two weeks ago the check engine light came on. I went to the manual, did all the useless things it says to do and the light remained on. Took it to the only reputable garage here in our small town to get a diagnostic done. Computer came up with the catalytic converter. Seemed it wasn't just the O2 sensor.

So, husband has him put a new one in. They couldn't find an aftermarket one local so they had to do a Mazda brand. (Husband found several aftermarkets on the internet..can one bring their own part in and have a mechanic put it in?) They call that day and say that the original 02 sensor broke cause it was messed up and they'll have to replace that too. Another 200 bucks added to the bill.

Everything gets done, I pick up the car and bring it home. I pulled into my driveway and the car was making a "jackhammer" noise. My driveway is on a slight incline so I backed up and drove back up. I did this several times, the jackhammer noise continued. I left the driveway and drove around the neighborhood. At each stop, the Jackhammer continued like the idle was all off. So, I immediately drove back to the garage and asked them if they messed with the idle setting. They said no. They took it to the bay and 10 minutes later came back saying they cleaned "so and so" and it should be better now but they don't know why it would be making the noise I described. I was doubtful because I know what I heard and felt so I had the mechanic who did the repair (who is also the owner) to get in the passenger seat. I drove around a bit and stopped several times and I could still hear it only faintly. I said "hear that?" and he said "well, kind of, but I've never heard a Mazda or Honda or any of those imports not run like that". So, I looked at him and said "I've been driving this car for 3 years and I DON'T drive with the radio on so I KNOW if it's making a noise it doesn't usually make!" He just kind of laughed. I took him back to his shop and he said if it keeps making that noise I described, bring it back. So, a few days go by and yesterday it starts doing it again, only worse than that first day. Now, I plan on taking it back of course, but I wanted to see if I could get a few opinions to what it might be.

Here are the facts again in short:

--NEVER had this problem before the catalytic converter repair.

--It is a rough, jackhammer sound at stoplights and any idle time..It is quite audible and the car does vibrate noticeably.

--There is a tick, tick, ticking sound if she isn't doing the jackhammer thing.

--The RPM needle vibrates at the line before the 1 mark. I don't remember what it idled at before.

Does anyone know what could be the problem? I don't see how it could be related to the Catalytic converter as it is located UNDER the stupid car. My concern is: They did SOMETHING to it to make me have to bring it back in and have another costly repair done (I knew my husband should have picked me up in his Audi).

I don't really buy the whole catalytic converter thing either (my husband made them show him the diagnostic on it though) cause from what I understand, the catalytic converters pretty well stay good the life of the car. I ONLY put in quality mid-grade fuel in her from the same source since I have owned her. Now, I don't know what the other 3 owners did.

Sorry this is so long but if ANYONE can help me so I have a bit more to bring in with me to this mechanic than "she's vibrating at idle" I would be most appreciative.

jimmcknight

- It's too bad we can't trust every repair shop, but there's too many stories out there about sabotage on vehicles to get more business.
    At that mileage, it would be far more common to have an O2 sensor need replacement rather than a cat. converter. In IL we can go to Autozone and get a free diagnosis on c.e.l. codes.
    I wonder if they replaced the converter and still got a c.e.l. and decided to "fix" the problem with an O2 sensor.
    My '99 Grand Am v-6 had the "jackhammer" noise, and they said it was because the exhaust system was spring-loaded and was loose at the exhaust manifold. The noise got louder if you stepped on the throttle, since that put more pressure on the connections. Is it possible that your "repair technicians" jossled the exhaust system during the "repair" and pulled something loose or out of alignment? Hopefully, some other people may have additional ideas.

mazdafun

I agree. I think part of the exhaust system is loose and parts are hitting each other (creating noise and vibration). There are several rubber hangers (to dampen vibration)and they may have forgotten to replace one. Or they may have run some tubing (or the cat itself) too close to surrounding parts. If it gets faster in time with your engine speed, then that's the source of the noise.

Usually, a bad cat requires a new oxygen sensor. I don't know why they didn't replace that in the first place.

Idle is usually around 800-850rpm, so that is correct.

hobbs03

Hey guys,

I'm fairly handy and am planning on changing my own spark plugs on my 01 pro, but looking under this hood is a lot different than looking under the hood of my old 86 sentra.

Can anyone give me step by step advice as to this process.

I truly appreciate it.

jbbuggy

Thanks for the reply...however, I'm confused..If the problem is the exhaust system that is exacerbated by throttle...why would I just get the jackhammer noise and vibration at a stop (idle)???

There doesn't seem to be any problem during acceleration or normal cruising speed. I did notice that the jackhammer is worse when I brake hard (or just press on the brake harder while stopped at a light, etc.). Can you clarify a bit for me here as I want to be fully armed when I take it back into this guy..Thanks so much for your help thus far.

Jo

mazdafun

The amplitude (how far the parts swing) of the vibration depends on the input force and whether or not the frequency is a harmonic of the natural resonant frequency (what rate it wants to vibrate at if you just hit it once, like a tuning fork). Also, the higher the frequency, the lower the amplitude, as the system has a lot of mass, so it doesn't swing out as far on each cycle it vibrates faster. I think that's why you notice the noise more at lower engine speeds. While revving the engine, I think the exhaust vibrates faster, but for smaller distances.

I had a similar problem with my '89 323LX after they'd worked on the transmission. The car would vibrate noticeably while at idle (about 800rpm), with the transmission engaged. I didn't notice the problem while accelerating, or if I put the AT into neutral (idle would then climb to about 850-900rpm). Of course, they insisted it was "within specifications". Oh well, at least they fixed the hard 1->2 shift.

I think that they either routed the new parts too close to other parts (so that they hit), or they forgot to replace a couple of those rubber hangers that suspend the exhaust pipe. Not only do the rubber hangers hold the pipe, they dampen the vibration. There are heat shields around the catalytic converter. These may be loose and making that noise by rattling around and possibly against the catalytic converter, though I don't think they'd vibrate the car enough to bother you (that's why I think it's the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly shaking around, and possibly hitting the underside of your car). There's also a heat shield over the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine. You might want to make sure it's fastened down properly too. I don't know if they have to unfasten the engine block, but if they did, they might also want to confirm the engine is properly bolted down, and that all the engine mounts are there (I think they are rubber, to dampen vibration...I think the Mazda 3 has fluid-filled mounts for even better dampening).

jbbuggy

or I guess sometimes they're called adjustable hood bumpers.

I need to replace mine on my '97 Protege. I've been to 3 auto parts stores...Is this a special Mazda size or can I get some generic? Don't want to have to go through Mazda dealer to get them, they'd probably charge me 30 bucks.

status

Hi guys--I'm a complete newbie to this group and it's a bit cumbersome to read through everything posted so far...

...I have a '99 Protege LX, 5-speed, 43K miles, purchased new. Had to replace the tires at 24K (I've read that's common) and the only repairs have been a broken right power door lock and rotted-out heat shields. All maintenance is done by the dealer.

Only gripe I have is the film I constantly get on the inside of the windshield, otherwise the car's great.

What do I need to look out for as the car gets older? We usually keep our cars for 10+ years. This is my first Mazda after years of owning Hondas.

Thanks!

blueearth

Hello Everyone,

This is also my first post on the board here. I hope I am posting in the right place. If someone could direct me to a previous post that answers my question, that would be useful also. So, here goes.

I've got a silver 2002 Protege, and of course I have a few scratches here and there. The touch-up paint that they gave me when I bought the car of course doesn't match my car's color, and looks horrible when I try to use it (I tried it once, and removed it before it dried). Any suggestions for things I can do on my own, without taking it in for detailing? Thanks.

mazdafun

The film is all the plasticizers coming out of the plastic trim. If you use a sunshade with any plastic in it, a bunch also comes out of that. It takes about 1-2 years for the stuff coming out of the car trim to slow down noticeably, depending on how hot it gets in your car.

Mazda's touch-up paint requires a LOT of shaking to mix it enough so it matches decently. If you don't shake it enough, it looks a bit thin and perhaps dark compared to the paint on your car. Also, use a fine-tipped art brush or a toothpick to apply the paint. You'll have a much less gloppy application.

Other than that, your usual maintenance items: coolant every 2 years, AT fluid every 3 etc. You might want to replace your plugs and plug wires every 30 or 60k miles. Replace the timing belt every 60k (think about it in the states that require them to state replacement is only needed at 105k). The only major system on my '99LX to go was my factory stereo head unit. It died a couple months after my warranty did (back when it was only 36 months). For less than the cost of an original unit ($250), I got an aftermarket unit that lets me plug my iPod into the front face.

My last car was a Mazda 323LX ('89). I kept that for 14 years before I felt bad about not driving it enough (I got my Pro in Jan '99) and sold it at over 142k miles. I miss that little guy. The only non-regular (though certainly not unusual) stuff I had to do were replace the radiator (had sprung a slow leak around 8-9 years) and the exhaust system back from the catalytic converter around the same time. Even though the service manager said they were fine, I replaced the struts and springs at all 4 wheels at 90k miles.

Most Mazdas (aside from the Truck/Ranger and Tribute/Escape) are very reliable. You'll occasionally find a lemon, as you will with any make of vehicle. There are a lot of posts in the Mazda3 chats about wimpy AC units, though its importance varies with the weather in your area.

civiletti

my '99 es is running fine. there is a bearing? noise from the water pump or one of the nearby components at idle sometimes. the plastic covers over the doorlock key entries fell apart [I use the remote opener now]. The rear door innside trim panels warp in damp weather. There still is a buzz under the dash at hiway speed. All in all, not bad for a 5 year old car.