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Volvo 850 Wagons

1468910

Comments

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Prob the ABS at work.
    Going down hill the weight shifts to the front wheels, the rear wheels can then lock up easier.
    The pulse is what your feeling with the abs cycling.

    As with any old car, look at the maintenance records.
    Timing belts on those old cars were every 60-80,000 miles depending on model and year.
    Engines are very robust, electronic failures are the most common thing.
    If the car has been well maintained I wouldn't be afraid of it.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    Thnx-

    All my fears are gone. Now I just have to pay for the 80K scheduled maintenance.
  • liv2dayliv2day Posts: 1
    Where do you recommend to get parts for this vehicle. My 850 wagon has two cosmetice rubber strips on the roof which are peeling. The car is black and has no roof rack. Anyone have a used or aftermarket connection in the US or via internet?
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    liv2d-

    I actually installed my Volvo roof rails on my 850. I had to remove and cut those strips to fit the new rails. The rubber strips are probably only available at a certified Volvo parts dealer because they have a steel core and are specifically designed to fit the body panel seem for the 850 wagon. If you want cheap you might be able to get some decent ones at a junk yard. They are rather simple to remove.

    Peace,
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    You may want to try VolvoWorld.com for these parts. In my experience, they're not the cheapest, but they do carry a wide variety of lesser trim and ancilliary bits and pieces for the 850 series cars. I took a look at their site and didn't find the strips, but if you email them, they may be able to source it for you.

    Another source for comprehensive parts is Borton Volvo . Borton Volvo (a dealership) has decent prices, and lots of sales on parts, it seems. I've gotten good deals when I've found something there.
  • sabarysabary Posts: 1
    Hi - my husband has fallen in love with this car, and I'm nervous about the mileage - it has had 3 owners including seller who is employed as a volvo mechanic (local dealership) - he has given us a long list of what he has repaired/replaced and basically it is immaculate and extremely well maintained... it is a 1994. Would you consider this in our boat? We are considering paying 5500, nada is 4900 I think. New tires, brakes, ac recharged... all kinds of things sealed etc (I'm not mechanical at all so I don't know what was on the list but it was thoroughly serviced to bring it up to what would be certified standard if the mileage was low enough).
    How much of a gamble is this?
  • nats58nats58 Posts: 4
    70K miles, am told either cracked head or lesser (but 2.5K to 3.5K to fix) - has this happened to others?
  • nats58nats58 Posts: 4
    beloved 97 850 glt wagon - 69K miles - verdict is that coolant leaking either from cracked head or blown gaskets, or... in all events 2.5K to 3.5K to repair- not sure what to do - is the overheating from cracked head or other been common to 97 glts?
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Well, that's alot of miles on any car. The things to look out for that could cost you alot of money are: tranny ('94s didn't have the strongest and it'll cost you $3k-$4k), a/c evaporator replacement, and abs module replacment. These are the main issues, and something I'd think about when buying the car w/ almost 200k miles on the clock already. Fwiw, the turbo shouldn't pose a big issue. Even if it goes out, you can get a replacement for a few hundred, and a decent home mechanic can replace it. You could pay a few thousand more and find an 850 with half the miles on it, imho.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    S-

    Hey if it were my car with that kind of miles on it I say...sure why not, but then I know the true history of my car and it'll probablly be really dead (i.e. 197K) by the time I get rid of it.

    Advice skip this particular car. 94's were very problematic. This one in my opinion probably has some serious repair bills undisclosed with it's sale. If U R shopping for a $5,000 car I would not get and 94 850 turbo.

    Honestly, I think you might be barking up the wrong Volvo Tree. Go out and get a clean early 90's 240 for that kind of money and skip the head ache. The 850 is a really nice car and most every owner loves them to death outside of their sometimes astronomical repair costs.

    We have a 96 non-turbo wagon with 75K on it and have had no major problems with it. 96 seems to be the year things got a little better at Volvo with their quality assurance program. BTW- regular maintenance on an aging 850 ain't gonna be cheap.

    Best Wishes
  • Hello everyone, I have been browsing through the messages here and appreciate hearing about everyone's experiences and expertise. I am financially challenged at present (!) (putting three children through college, etc, on my own) and am looking for a car in the 4000-5000 dollar range. I looked at this 83 850GLT, 2 owner, well maintained but not immaculate, asking price is 4500. It has a new transmission with 15K. Is this anything I should consider?
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    I write this as the owner of an older ('89) Volvo 740...I love my car, but it's gotten to the point where age, not mileage, is taking its toll. Maintenance has been heavy, especially over the past six months. It drives nicely and is wonderfully comfortable on longer trips (two trips from Cedar Rapids, IA to the Boston area and counting), but a maintenance-free vehicle an older Volvo is not.

    To give you an example, this is the list of things I've done in the couple years I've owned my car:

    Brakes (rotors and pads) $780.00 (I splurged a little and got Brembo rotors when OEMs were a little less.)
    Exhaust $300.00
    Tuneup $100 (bought the parts and did it myself)
    Thermostat $100
    Repaired exhaust manifold gasket leak $120.00
    Battery $100
    Tires $450

    Stuff that really should be done:

    New steering rack ~$600 (slow leak in the present one)
    Fix faulty A/C $? (I'm afraid what they'll tell me)
    Shocks ~$500

    This is in addition to regular oil changes and routine stuff. A lot of the items on the list are wear items and can be expected to be done to any car, but Volvo parts are not cheap (you can source them yourself for some savings...there are many good websites for this.)
    My point is, although these are really great cars, very safe, etc., they're also progressively more expensive to keep running in top form as they age. This is true of any car, but European cars tend to cost more to maintan than their domestic or Asian counterparts. I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying a Volvo; I'm just giving you fair warning so you know what you're getting into.

    Oh, and you should be able to get that '93 850 (I'm assuming it's a sedan; there was no '93 850 wagon) for about $4,000.

    Good luck.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    No way would I shop for a 150K used 850 on a budget.

    Mind you, I have just spent $500 on a new set of not over the top tires, a third set of brakes brakes etc. know very well what a really nice older 850 can cost. I love the car and probable would do exactly as Lancerfixer has for his 940. However I have to agree that one should never own a modern Volvo on a budget. (BTW-a 93 850 is included as modern although barely)

    After the trans has been replaced then you'll need a new airconditioning unit......which then after replacing that there always seems to be incessant rattles in the dash.....etc., etc., etc.

    Do not buy a modern Volvo on a budget, they are seriously a luxury car with a low brow snob appeal. Believe it or not I bet we'd buy another one when our 96 850 is dead. Now how is that for a mixed review? Most modern Volvo oweners could have chosen and afforded a BMW or Mercedes but they simply liked the Swede better. Don't think you are buying some sort of modern European Chevy Caprice when you go for a Volvo these days.

    2 cent from a low brow-

    Peace,

    F.

    Now.... post that on your Volvo's bumper and people will believe you mean it.
  • phillyguy3phillyguy3 Posts: 88
    JAVADOC & FREDERICK: You seem to know these cars. My semi-retired father is looking at a sedan with 150K, Owned by a Volvo Master Mechanic for the past 3 years. A friend purchased another Volvo from him last year (760 Sedan) with same mileage and only had to replace the rotors.
    Price is $5,000 with new Turbo, Ac evaporator.
    He's also willing to repair anything up to 1 year for parts cost and he lives 1 mile from me.
    Yea or Nay???
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    A '95? I don't know... $5k isn't a huge risk is it? I like that it has a new evap. Those will set you back some bones when (not if) they go out. What about the abs module? Is it functioning properly?

    How's the rest of the car? I can't imagine w/ 150k it's pristine, but has it been in a major accident? How does the transmission operate? What about the suspension? It'll ride stiff (turbo, and 850s in general do), but shouldn't have rattling suspension pieces.

    However, $5k isn't a ton of money, right? But, that's just my opinion.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The new evap is great, the 850's always had to have those replaced.
    What worries me is the new Turbo. The turbos in the 850's were pretty reliable, it should not have needed to be replaced.
    I'd take a long hard look at hte rest of the mechanicals.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    Philly-

    I like the idea of the way you found this car and the verbal agreement that this seller is willing to stand by and fix the probalems at no labor charge. Does he own the shop?

    The 850 is the "new" Volvo platform from which most current Volvo's are derived. The old rear wheel drive platform are completely different machines. They were more Chevy Caprice in their nature and Swedish road going tanks. The new Volvo's are quite buttoned down and sportier in nature.

    Do not relate your friend's 760 experience to what you might expect with an 850.

    Javadoc- maybe you can jump in here but it is my understanding that the 850 engine was a totally new power plant. Along with the fact that it is a front wheel drive car it was a nearly ground up new design from the Volvo's we'd known before.

    My final concern is that you have documented proof of the work that is claimed to have been done on this car. An automatic transmission replacement on 93-95 850's has been a common complaint and it alone could cost $2,500-3,000, of course a lot of that is probably labor.

    I own a 96 850 auto wagon with 82,000 on the odom. I have seen none of these problems with my car that you are reading about. If Dad is not a big mileage guy and the tranny is good, you probably are not too far off for $5,000.

    Best Wishes,

    F.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Yes, from what I know, the engine in the 850s was a new design, being an aluminum block/head design as well. I know of no issues w/the motor itself. I think I've heard it referred to as the 'white' motor, and the old iron block motors being referred to as 'red' motors... I assume that this is b/c of the aluminum (white) and/or iron (red) block materials.
  • cap99cap99 Posts: 4
    FREDERICK: I also experience an occasional deep hum.shudder to the brakes. It seems to happen after I've driven for more than 20 minutes and at longer distances/higher speeds. When it does happen, it's when I apply the brakes halfway and come to a rolling stop. The car almost feels like the bottoms dropping out. I have also had a pad replacement weeks ago. Anyone else with ideas on this?
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Warped rotors, would be my guess. Did you have the rotors turned/resurfaced when you replaced the pad?

    I had all kinds of warpage issues w/the stock rotors, until I installed some quality slotted units. Haven't had the problem since.

    my .02
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    So that is your dirty lil secret.

    My car is on it's second set of rotots since new. The first set was resurfaced just before we bought the car the second set I assume was Volvo certified since it was done at a dealership. Where did these slotted rotors come from Jav and how much did they cost?

    My car's brakes still hum when you apply moderate pressure while stopping on a decent but I've been assured that this is most likely the ABS working. The car stops no problem and there is no shudder felt in the steering wheel so I left it alone.

    Peace,

    D.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    Why Fredrick, I got them at none other than... Link coming...

    ipdusa.com. It'll be your favorite Volvo shopping spot if you don't already know about it.

    I have metallic pads, and they're pretty noisy. They squeek nicely when cold, but they stop nicely, for stock calipers. The rotors are about $200 a pair.
  • kcc455kcc455 Posts: 33
    I am interested in a 96 850 R with 137K miles and I am new to Volvo's and looking for advice. One owner, with all maintenance records. No Major repairs like trans. or engine rebuilds. It does not have the original 17" Volan wheels. Body is in good shape but has some scratches, fading, etc. A VW dealer has it listed for $8,900. I am thinking $7,500 is my top dollar. Any advice on future maintenance items to be wary of? What do you think about the price?

    Thank you.
  • ivyfchuivyfchu Posts: 21
    I own a '94 850 and I have the same brake shudder problem as described by cap99. The first time it happened was a couple of years ago and it cost me around $1000 to fix it at the dealer. (I believe they replaced all the pads and rotors). Now it is happening again.... I tried to be cheap and just replaced the brake pads at a local Firestone but the shudder is still happening. I really don't want to spend $1000 at the dealer again... Any suggestions?
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Do not, repeat do not, bring it to the dealer for service. Find a reputable independent shop that specialized in imports, or even better Volvos in particular, that will do the work. The shudder is very likely caused by a warped rotor, which can be caused by any number of things, like if you've had the tires replaced or rotated. If the wheel nuts aren't torqued evenly and to factory specs, the rotors can warp. There are several brands of aftermarket rotor that will stop better and resist warpage better than the factory Volvo units. I replaced mine with Brembo rotors and haven't had a problem (though my independent shop torques the wheel nuts by hand, with a torque wrench, not an airgun.) For reference, I spent a little over $700 (including labor) for Brembo rotors and PBR brake pads, both of which are an upgrade over the factory parts, and it still wasn't as much as the dealer's price. My feeling is, if it's out of warranty, don't waste your money at the dealer.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    Kcc455-

    You are looking at a rare bird on that VW lot but I'm affraid I already see a lot of potential road kill with buzzards already circling in your future with this car.

    My recomendation, since you obviously have not deeply researched the past history of 850's posted on this board is that you not buy this car.

    Here are my reasons: You state it is being sold by a VW dealership, i.e. a total "As Is" purchase. Heck, I'd bet even they would not have a clue as to what potentially could be wrong with this car nor would they likely disclose it to you anyway.

    2nd: If you are going to buy the car used from a new car dealership they will not disclose anything to you about the true condition of the car beyond the summary of it starts, it drives, and the brakes and blinkers work. They will not have any of the previous owner's records on what repair history this car has been and if they did they would have immediatly chucked them in the trash for legal reasons before they put the car on their lot for sale.

    Potential Problems in a Nut Shell with 850R's:

    1. Transmission, has this been replaced?

    2. Evaporative Cooler/Air conditioning unit,
        has it been replaced, and now does your
        dashboard now squeak?

    3. Does this R still have all the orginal rims
        with the low profile tires and are the rims
        all in good condition?

    KCC- these are the major problems you'd need to know about before buying an 850. If any one of them becomes a problem after you own the car you are looking at an additional 1/4 of the bargain price you think you are gonna pay in repair bills. If you still want think you want to this car go to really qualified independent Volvo mechanic and get a total no $'s spared inspection on the car.

    If I were to hazard to guess, the owner of this Volvo traded it in for a new Passat Wagon or Tourage and probably knew some hefty repairs were lurking under the hood of this car.

    So think about it and research, research, and research this car some more.

    Peace,

    Frederick
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    I'm w/Fredrick on this one. I'd pass, if only b/c the tranny is original. I hate automatics and am just stuck w/on one my T5, but that's some serious mileage, even though the '96 trannies were stronger than the early year specimens.

    Be wary of this particular car, and have it looked at very closely. You said it doesn't have the Volan wheels... I wonder why. What kind of rims are on it? Some nice HREs or some cheapo rims? That will tell you volumes of what to expect from the vehicle, imho.

    Still... pass. There are others out there in seriously fine shape for good money.
  • kcc455kcc455 Posts: 33
    The VW dealership also specializes in used imports and provided me the service records since 10,000 miles. The salesman faxed me 20 pages of maint. records. The story is the original owner was unhappy with service at the local Volvo dealership. The 17" Volan were replaced with 16" Borbet wheels after the owner had two or three of them worked on or replaced for getting bent or warped. This was in the service records. The trans. was serviced, and all scheduled maint. seems to have been performed. It seems the owner (supposedly a local doctor) took it in for everything including simple things like light bulbs. The salesman even offered to call the previous owner and let me speak to him about the car. Despite all this I am leary about the 137K miles and should probably search out a local Volvo mechanic and get a Pre Purchase Inspection. I did not find any records of shocks/struts being replaced. Any idea how much shocks/struts are for the 850R?

    Thank you.
  • javadocjavadoc Posts: 1,167
    My Bilstein HDs just cost me about $500 plus install. FWIW, they're awesome. They feel awesome... a tad stiffer than stock but the ride actually improved over stock b/c the shocks seem to take a bit of the 'crash' out of bumps. 80k miles is about all I'd say you want to go on the stock rims anyway. Does the car have the Nivomat air-ride rear suspension? If so, I'd say go w/conventional shocks, b/c the Nivomats are very expensive.

    I also recommend getting some good rotors (Brembos or Zimmerman slotted rotors), or warped rotors will be the norm.

    Still... I'd be wary of this car, service records or not. The motor should still have tons of life left, but the miles worry me for the transmission. It'll set you back $3k-$4k if that goes out on you.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Given that you've seen the records, and that the dealer is trying to calm your fears(in spite of what Fred thinks of them) I think if you can get the car for @ $7000 its a good deal.
    Alot of people replaced the low profile tires on those cars because of ride and tire issues so no concern there.
    ANY car w/ 137,000 miles isn't going to be a paragon of reliability, there will be things that need to be replaced.
    I'd have an experienced Volvo shop look the car over and go from there.
  • cap99cap99 Posts: 4
    Thanks Lancerfixer for the advice on the rotors. One other thing. i've also lately been getting the ABS and Tracs Off lights come on the dash from time to time. This happened a couple of years ago on a long trip and when I took it to the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong. The brakes do their shudder thing occasionally. it all seems totally random. Also the check engine light is on all the time. I have 70,000 on the wagon. Is it true that that light will come on if you don't change the timing belt after so many miles or is it totally bogus?
  • ivyfchuivyfchu Posts: 21
    Just got new rotors and brake shudder problem seem to be gone... Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for the advice guys!
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Did they torque the wheels down with a hand torque wrench, or an air wrench? If it's the latter, prepare for the rotor warpage problem to return. It'd be worth your while (and a few bucks) to have them hand torqued at an independent shop or tire place when you get the opportunity.
  • Personally I never ride in the rear of my 850 but recently a bunch of friends wanted to tour Napa and they all choose the Volvo Wagon over their own PT Cruiser rental and a VW Golf. Ours was the only decent 5 passenger car.

    The problem was that the right rear passenger window would go down no problem when my friend activated the switch but it would not go up unless I activated it from the forward console.

    Any good cheap ways to maybe solve this problem without ripping out the entire interior door panel? I hate doing that sorta stuff cause invariably there are fragile plastic clips that you don't have a clue how they opperate until you break a few. Then the panel never seems to fit back into its orginal position.

    Questions: #1 Can the rear door window switch be easily pulled without removing the panel? #2 What are the tools and tricks? #3 Is it possible to just lie to you friends and tell them you'll bring your Yugo next time they want to go touring in Napa?

    Thx,

    F.
  • Looking @ a 96 850GLT in what appears to be very good condition w/ 132k miles on it. The price is about $4000 or so (negoatiated). Also comes with the "Cold Weather" package. Anyone have thoughts on this particular model and price?
  • Start reading @ about post #291

    Your potential purchase concerns will be nearly identical to KCC455's except for the rims.

    I have not comment on the price because beyond price and mileage nothing else is listed. It is within the ball park though.

    Peace,

    F.
  • Frederick/Javadoc - Especially interested in your views on the following (anyone else please feel free to chime in too - I appreciate the information):

    I'm considering buying a 1997 Volvo 850 wagon ("S" model? Probably the base model - 168 hp, no sunroof) from an individual (the current owner). Current owner bought the car from Volvo in 1998; it had apparently been an "employee" car before then. I do not know the seller.

    Car has almost 68,000 miles, new catalytic converter, new O2 sensor, new brakes and rotors about 15,000 miles ago, transmission was serviced about 10,000 or 12,000 miles ago, owner claims no electrical or AC problems. Car looks very clean on the outside and my gut tells me it was probably pretty well maintained, but I haven't yet looked under the hood or driven. Owner wants just shy of $9000.

    1) Any general thoughts?

    2) Anything to be concerned about other than the general possibility of big repair bills as the car gets older?

    3) Does the asking price seem fair, high, etc.?

    Thanks very much!

    -- Doug
  • I am looking to buy and 850 Wagon...mid to late 90's. What is all this talk about the transmission problems in these cars? Any year that this was not a problem? What years of the 850 Wagon are better than others? Have found a bunch on the net around the $10-$12k price range...generally under 100k miles. Also, how are the factory CD players in these cars? I would really appreciate any advice and guidance. Thanks!Jason
  • Doug-

    The 97 reads like it is pretty norm in the miles and brake department. The O2 sensor and catalytic converter replacement on top of the brake and rotor job probably killed the "joy of ownership" for this Volvo owner.

    I have not had to replace an O2 sensor or catalytic on my 96 w/ ~84K miles so I don't know what that costs. Probably a pretty penny or two.....or three. Not a happy experience I imagine.

    My guess is that after the last repair bill for this O2 sens., catalytic convert. on top of brakes and rotors this owner got wet feet about the up-coming ~70K mile scheduled maintenance. I don't remember exactly but I think ours was a timing belt on top of the second set of brakes and rotors. Call a Volvo dealership and find out what and when exactly that maintenance is and how much they charge for it. I'd deduct this from the selling price and make an offer.

    The 168 HP engine is the "base" non-turbo engine like my 96. If the car U R looking @ has leather, dual power seats, in trunk CD player, moon roof, alloy wheels, third row seat etc. then the $'s U state R maybe close to market value but still maybe on the high side.

    Best Wishes,

    Frederick
  • J-

    If you are gonna spend $10-12K, may I suggest you spend a while and read maybe half of the prior postings. The tranny problems mostly relate to 93 and older models. In the late 90's the 850 Wagon became the V70 and that is a slightly different bird.

    In the 850's the CD player was only a single CD w/ an up-grade remote trunk unit available for multiple CDs. The system won't blow your sock off if you R an audiophile but it works pretty well.

    94-97 is the 850 you want. 97 is the last year it was called and 850. After that it became the V70.

    Later,

    F.
  • I own a 1997 850 s/w. It came with a factory cassette radio. I can exchange it for a Volvo in dash CD player for a couple of hundred dollars. Anyone know if this is the way to go?
    Also check engine light is on. New O2 sensors and major tune up were done. I also changed the mass air flow sensor. I'm thinking it is a vacuum leak. Comments? (90,000 miles, auto trans, non turbo.)
  • I own a 1996 850 GLT. Recently my ABS/Tracs Light came on. After changing the ignition switch the dealer told me I needed an ABS Module $550.00. I pulled out the module myself and sent it to Victor Rocha.

    http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/

    $130.00 later everything works fine. He was prompt and I would recommend his service.
  • FREDERICKFREDERICK Posts: 228
    awd2003-

    Swapping out for a single CD player unit should be no problem. I'd get one out of a junked 850. Seems like only the base 850 came with a cassette only unit so U should have no problem locating a since in dash CD unit.

    Happy New Year,

    F.
  • Hello Volvo people. I'm new around here. I looking at a 1994 850 GLT w/122,500K. Price is $3950.00. The car looks brand new from the outside. Color is almost Candy Apple Red. Told me he had it detailed. He also says the horn doesn't work, and the timing belt was done at 75K. My wife saw it coming home one day. She drives a 1993 940 SE, 106,500K. I would appreciate any help. Also, I'm looking at 1994 960 with 76K, $5500.00. Thanks again. Charles.
  • klarckklarck Posts: 8
    What kind of options do these cars have?
     On the 850 I would check the following:

    1. Timing belts should be replaced every 70,000 miles; $260.00. At the same time you’ll put on a new serpentine belt, about $75.00.
    2. Brake fluid flush? $105.00.
    3. What is the condition of the brakes?
    4. If he has not replaced the ABS Module, chances are it will go bad in the next 5-10,000 miles. Cost at dealer about $550.00.
    5. I would pressure test the A/C.
    6. Why doesn’t the horn work?

    I would try to get the car for as close to $3,000.00 as possible.

    I’m not as familiar with the 960.
  • klarck: The 850 GLT has all the options. The car was bought with 24000 miles on it in 1995. The horn stays ON, so it was disconnected at the horn itself. The ABS Module has not been replaced. The brakes have been done in the last 12000 miles or so. I drove the car on the highway and there is a little shimmey or chatter from the front end. The brakes stop the car real smooth. There is a static noise in the volume dial of the radio. He told me he replaced 3 or 4 bulbs in the dash board. The transmission lights do not work (P,R,D etc) on the shifter. The a/c seems to work. The outside temp was 25 degrees at the time. The interior is leather and in great shape. Bottom line. No less than $3800. Thanks again for your help. Charles.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Is the 960 a sedan or wagon?
  • I test drove it and is smooth as silk. The only problem is the switch for the reverse lights is being replaced. Is there any thing else I should look for? On the ABS, VICROCHA says on the 94 850 GLT & 94 960 Wagon are not prone to faliure, again any help would be great. Chazmatic.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    ...all things being equal, if you don't mind the RWD (I prefer it, personally, and I live in a snowy climate) my personal preference would be the 960. It's all up to what you like best, really. I think maintenance and repair costs will be about the same. One of the things to check on the 960 is the condition of the rear self-leveling shocks (Nivomats)...the replacement cost for those is pretty frightening. Of course, make sure other maintenance (especially the timing belt) has been done. I think you'd do fine with either wagon.
  • dwinerdwiner Posts: 13
    My '96 855T also "hums" at times when braking, yet the hum lingers a bit after the car has stopped. This only happens when the cabin blower is on. I figure it is not brakes at all, but the bearings in the blower starting to go. Load on the motor shifts when braking, putting different strain on the bearings. Thoughts?
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