MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Honestly, just let him do what he wants. IMHO all the trucks are built fairly well these days and it comes down to personal preferences. I just traded my '03 Silverado on an '06 Tundra, and while the '03 was a bit more problematic that I expect, the problems weren't THAT serious. My '02 Tahoe was trouble-free for 40k miles. I bought the Tundra because of personal preferences, that's it. The current Chevy's are a bit long in the tooth compared to the others, but they're still pretty good. The deal breaker for me was the crew-cab bed being too short for my needs. You have to move up to a 1500HD for a 6.5' bed, which I didn't want (6.0L = slurp slurp slurp).
My past experience with the 5.3L is that it's about the most fuel efficient V8 out there in the truck market. The EPA numbers might be off on the Hemi if it has MDS. The vehicles with MDS (VCM/DOD/whatever you want to call multi-cylinder operation) tend to exagerate the EPA numbers a bit, sort of like the hybrids. The folks I know running Hemi's are getting more in the 14mpg range as an average. My 5.3L would average around 16mpg.
My biggest dislike of the Dodges (i have a 3500 diesel Ram as well) is that they sit so much higher than the Chevy. The Chevy is much easier to get in/out of but you still sit fairly high. They handle and ride better as well. I personally think the Dodge is put together a bit better, but it is a newer chassis. The Mega cab is also just plain HUGE. I didn't want anything THAT big, a standard crew cab has plenty of room for me and I'd rather have something more maneuverable.
The crew cab bed length was the main reason I ended up with the extended cab Silverado. I'd have bought an Avalanche, but at the time I was able to get a nicely equipped Z71 truck (dual auto climate, OnStar, XM, 5.3l) with addon equipment (rhinoliner, fold-a-cover, full length steps) for about $5k less than they wanted to give me on a similar Av (minus auto climate control, OnStar, and XM no less). But now that the 2007's are out and my kids are getting bigger I've ordered a 2007 Av LTZ. The box with the midgate up is still smaller than the truck's, but in a pinch it goes to over 8'. And 98% of the time I don't even need anything bigger than the sealed box will fit anyway.
As far as the mileage goes, I fully agree about the 5.3l. I drive 90% highway here, including steep grades on my daily commute, and I still have averaged well over 18.5 overall (19+ usually) with my truck. But I've always beaten EPA estimates for whatever type of driving I've done in any of my vehicles, so maybe I really do drive like grandpa (wife says so!). :P
I went to my local dealer in Mechanicsburg PA and talked to a knowledgeable staff. they suggested I change the resistor under the dash. did that tonight and all is well. the fan switch is now working on all settings. <$30. the dealer in Maryland that i went to wanted to sell me the dashboard instrument panel switches for $130. not a very smart dealer.
Thanks to you both for your replies. My dad did thorough test drives of both the Dodge and Chevy, and ended up going with the Chevy. He'd been misquoted on the price of the Megacab (quote was for a standard crew cab), so Megacab was out of reach, and after driving the regular crew cab Dodge he decided he preferred the GM truck. I wouldn't have been horribly upset if he'd gotten the Dodge, but I do think he'll get better mileage out of the Chevy in the long run.
Why in the world do you want to get a used one? This part costs less than $ 30 new for most trucks. If you get a used one, chances are it too will fail within a short period of time.
The hinges broke on my center console and the dealer says I can't get replacement hinges. My only option is buy a new console at $338. Does anyone know where I can get replacement hinges? They look like they are built into the plastic and are spring loaded.
I really didn't want a used one. I had to go to 4 parts stores and three dealers to finally get the assistance and the new part I needed. it is installed and working just fine now.
now the 4 WD service light comes on once in a while. I just had it in for 130000 mile checkup about 6 months ago. the changed the fluids and such. now the light comes on. someone said the sensor will wear out and do that. is this hard to replace? where is it located?
PAT....That is correct. Sadly you will have to buy a whole new $pendy console. The lock assembly broke in my 01 but I was lucky and it was under warranty.
Did you consider doing a junkyard search or even try flea-bay?
I own a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3 V8 with 45,000 miles and have noticed the following problems within the last couple of months. I was hoping that someone familiar with these issues or have had the same problems might be able to assist. They are: 1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it something worse. 2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak. 3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour, and shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator is showing as being in another gear but will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Any idea where I can find replacements? Blow proof?
So far 111K of nearly trouble free miles. getting 18mpg with 5.3 & 3.42 gears @ speeds up to 80 mph.
Have had excellent experience using Firestone Indy 265/70 16 tires & synthetic Castrol oil K&N air filters. Frame seems kind of rubbery compared to the newer Fords and Dodges. However they are way too huge...
If the Colorado/Canyon offered a 5.3 it would be my next, but at nearly 4000 lbs the I5 3.5 engine doesn't get it.
My '06 Silverado has the turn signal lights on the mirrors. For those of you who have blind spot mirrors on your trucks, what type did you use?
My previous trucks I had 3" round blind spot mirrors-worked well, but not sure if I want to use them on this truck-it covers all but the very top of these signal lights.
I can't remember the exact brand of mirrors I used, but I think they were called cateyez. I got them at checker.The mirrors were made for 01-03 chevys with the mirrors that have no turn signal. They stick to the housing between the mirror and the body. I put mine on the inside corner of the mirror. It's not as good as some of the factory convex mirrors but it defiently helps. With a crew cab long bed I'll take any extra vision I can get. They are small (1" x 3" approx.) but u can see if someone is there and looks alot better than other stick on ones I have seen.
My Avalanche (bought used) has what I would guess is a 2" dia. and they're mounted way to the inside edge of the mirror. I do not have the turn signal mirrors but in this location they wouldn't interfere. They may not pick up as much as if they were mounted outboard but they do help. BTW this is the 1st time I've ever had any of these. They do help.
First, thanks for the replies on my blind spot mirror question.
Anyone have any experience (Good or Bad) with the Truxedo-brand Truxport tonneau cover?
I originally was planning on going with a fiberglass shell/cap on my crew cab w/5'8" bed, but having hard time justifying $1600-1800 for the styles I like.
I've found the Truxport at a few places for around $225.
On previous trucks I've had ARE-brand hard tonneaus but they limited you on what could be hauled, but it was secure.
I recently purchased a new 2006 V-6, manual transmission, Silverado (Work Truck model). Ever since buying it, I have had trouble shifting from neutral into 1st gear as well as shifting into reverse. The dealer told me the tranny would "loosen-up", but it still hasn't. So, I am wondering if anybody else has had a similar problem? And, if so, are there any solutions you could recommend?
PS: I have also noticed my truck's suspension sags lower on one side (like many others posted here), and would also appreciate any advice/opinions regarding this!
Anyone have and use a Bully Truck-brand tailgate lock on their Silverado/Sierra truck? This is the type that you replace the tailgate handle bezel with the Bully which has a key-lock.
Interested to know how well it works, ease of installation.
I'm going to put a Truxport cover on my truck, and thought maybe this tailgate lock would help to get in more security.
So why does GM still not incorporate a lock in the handle of the tailgate-couldn't they just use a driver's door handle assembly?
I assume this truck has a hydraulic clutch. You could have air trapped in the hydraulic clutch circuit. This causes the clutch not to release fully when the pedal is depressed, making shifting into first and reverse difficult. I recommend you take the truck back to the dealer and ask them to bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit.
If this does not eliminate the problem, there is also possibility that either the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder are internally leaking, causing incomplete clutch release. I had this problem with a Mazda 626 car, but at 130K miles. Rebuilding the clutch master and slave cylinders and bleeding the hydraulic clutch circuit solved the problem of hard shifting into 1st gear.
Quote: "So why does GM still not incorporate a lock in the handle of the tailgate...."?
A: Because they are cheapskates, trying to save a buck everywhere.
Some other examples of cheapness on part of GM:
1. the trip computer, which is built into each truck, but only functions if you buy the $ 125 optional steering wheel with 'redundant radio controls". Only LT3 Silverado has this as standard equipment.
2. lack of transmission oil temperature gauge on 1500 series trucks (even the ones with factory tow package), even though all trucks have a temperature sending unit already installed and prewired.
3. cheap plastic door handles standard even on fully optioned LT3 Silverado trucks. LT Suburbans and Tahoes get body colored door handles, which are much nicer.
4. cheap black plastic outside mirrors standard on all Silverado trucks, even if you order the optional power folding turn signal arrow mirros.
5. homelink transmitter not available as an individual option (even though you can get it on the Avalanche for about $ 120), unless you buy the sunroof with it for close to $ 1,000.
6. no power sliding rear window, not even available as a factory option on any Silverado truck (this being standard equipment now on many Titan and Tundra trucks)
7. deleting foglights as standard equipment in '06 LT1 Z71 Silverados
8. not providing a 7 pin to 4 flat pin adapter for tow package equipped trucks as a part of the package
9. not offering an electric brake controller as factory installed option, even with the towing pacakage equipped trucks
Have a 01 ex short bed with the Access brand cover. Stronger than the Truxedo and in my opinion easier to use. Mine has been thru minnesota winters and two hurricanes in florida and STILL is holding up great.
I just got the Advance hard folding cover. I have not installed it yet, but it is lightweight, has four folding panels and allows use of the bed for hauling tall objects when needed, and is also lockable on both end panels. The panels are aluminum with styrofoam core inbetween for insulation. Anybody else has one of those? It is the same as fold-a-cover, except that it has some improvements, such as latching of all four panels to the truck's bed when closed, better hinges and seals, etc. I thought about getting a soft tonneau cover, but a decent one is about $ 300 and up, and vinyl does not stand up very well to hot Florida sun. This Advance cover cost me about $ 480 delivered. Here is some information on the product:
this might be a possible reason for the cold start knock issues iv read about on some of 4.8,5.3 and 6.0's, gm just has a plastic plug in lower oil galley.
well it don't seal very well, so oil seeps past it back to the pump, also when running unfiltered oil seeps past it goes into motor.
I purchased a Truxedo "Truxport" tonneau and for the price, $225, it seems like a decent buy. I looked at the Access brand as well as the original Truxedo but I didn't care for the mounting on the inside of the bed rail.
The Truxport mounts on top of the rails, and covers the stake pocket holes, and it still has the convenience to roll up like the others mentioned at about half the cost. So far it seems to keep the rain out.
I prefer the black front bumper cover on the front bumper so it matches the black bumber cover on the rear bumper.
Off the subject: Some of the companies are painting the front bumper and are still using the chromed bumper on the rear. I certainly do not like that approach. P.
Just got my new Sierra, has 5.3 with 3.73, 4x4. Would like to do some mods to get more hp, duals, cold air intake? What is the best bang for the bucks? Thanks
Avoid all the possible warranty exclusions and hassles with certain mods. A PCM (computer) burn tune is your best bet for better mpg and performance at a reasonable cost.............
There's no P2725 listed. The P's only go as high as P2145. There is however a B2725 which, yes, relates to either the Transfer Case Shift Control Switch or Transfer Case Shift Control Module.
THIS LIGHT IS COMING ON NOW THAT I HAVE OVER 145000 MILES ON THE TRUCK. THE 4WD WAS SERVICED AT 110000. WHAT GIVES? IS THIS A FAULTY SENSOR OR SOMETHING? :confuse:
Mines was coming on and I threw the scanner on it. The code that came out was 2725. I checked and it has to do with the trasfer case switch. I replaced the switch on the dash and so far the light hasn't come on yet. You could probably change the switch cause they are known for being faulty. About 60bucks for the part and 5 minutes of your time to do it.
I purchased my 2006 Silverado, 1500, v6, 2wd, ext. cab in December 2005. Over all I'm very satisfied with it. However, when I am at Interstate speed (60 mph to 80 mph) and come to even a slight incline I have a problem maintaining my speed.
Here is what usually happens. I come to the incline and give the pedal a nudge. I start to slow down with the incline. I give the pedal another nudge and continue to decelerate. When I give the pedal another slight nudge I usually shift into passing gear with a roar. :confuse:
It's really just a little nuisance, but I'd prefer to have more control over accelleration and passing gear.
Has anyone else had a similar problem? Is a v6 underpowered for the vehicle size? Does anyone have any advice?
RANDY......Its just a v-6 running at or near the top of its torque and power band in OD UPHILL. You have to expect it to drop a gear or 2 to keep up to your desired speed.
Its just the nature of the v-6 beast............
BTW: My dad had a couple 90s v-6 full sizers and they did the same thing.....................
My 4.8L ext. cab 4x4 did the same thing. Cruise control was about useless in the hills as it was very lazy and usually lost 5+mph before forcing a downshift, then quickly would upshift as soon as it reached desired speed, then repeat several times during the climb. Quite annoying.
Add to the fact these trannys are also very lazy about downshifting from OD....and you've got the "problem" figured out. My 5.3L never did this so IMHO, the 4.8 and (obviously) V6 are underpowered for this vehicle. I didn't benefit from better mpg either....15mpg was doing quite good on the highway. Usually averaged 13-14mpg in a mix regardless of how it was driven. Maybe your V6 will do better, but I figure mine had to work so much harder it made no difference. My 5.3L would average 18-20mpg on the highway and usually averaged 15-16mpg. Lesson learned I suppose.
I have a dealer installed alarm system on my truck - the last time I changed the battery I had all kinds of problems getting it to reset. The truck would still start but the alarm would sound / horn would honk -
I had to call the dealer and get the procedure to reset the alarm - I thought I wrote it down & it was safely stored in my glove box - wrong.
Anyone know what the correct procedure is? Or How to look it up.
It goes something like -
Put key in the ignition - turn on but do not start engine
Push lock then unlock button on remote three times - while holding your breath - do a handstand - start truck with one eye open - one eye closed.
I used to have the Truxedo cover and it was great. I broke the closing latch and they sent me another one within a week. That is a common problem. They also told me to check back with them around July. Because they have redesigned the latch system to be stronger. When I say used to have, meaning I was driving on the highway in strong winds and it tore the back rail right off. If u r in high winds 50+mph I would suggest rolling it up. I haven't had a chance to contact truxedo on this incident, but I am sure they would replace it at no cost.
I've only had one V6 (a '96 SWB) and as others mentioned, that's exactly the way it reacted too. On flat, level ground the V6 is pretty impressive, but come to a hill (and it doesn't have to be very big) and you remember it's only a 6. I did not experience this though with my '99 4.8 x-cab.
When I test drove for a problem, the Chevy dealer's service manager and I were discussing modifications and how they would affect the factory warranty. What's interesting is that every service manager has a different interpretation of what GM would or would not cover under warranty based on certain modifications.
Anyway, he said that headers, intake, exhaust, throttle body, rims etc were no problem as far as he was concerned. He did say that if I were to put in a supercharger I'd be hard pressed to convince him to warrant anything in the driveline and engine.
Course there are many that don't worry about such matters even if it is a GM product.
Comments
kirstie_h
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
My past experience with the 5.3L is that it's about the most fuel efficient V8 out there in the truck market. The EPA numbers might be off on the Hemi if it has MDS. The vehicles with MDS (VCM/DOD/whatever you want to call multi-cylinder operation) tend to exagerate the EPA numbers a bit, sort of like the hybrids. The folks I know running Hemi's are getting more in the 14mpg range as an average. My 5.3L would average around 16mpg.
My biggest dislike of the Dodges (i have a 3500 diesel Ram as well) is that they sit so much higher than the Chevy. The Chevy is much easier to get in/out of but you still sit fairly high. They handle and ride better as well. I personally think the Dodge is put together a bit better, but it is a newer chassis. The Mega cab is also just plain HUGE. I didn't want anything THAT big, a standard crew cab has plenty of room for me and I'd rather have something more maneuverable.
As far as the mileage goes, I fully agree about the 5.3l. I drive 90% highway here, including steep grades on my daily commute, and I still have averaged well over 18.5 overall (19+ usually) with my truck. But I've always beaten EPA estimates for whatever type of driving I've done in any of my vehicles, so maybe I really do drive like grandpa (wife says so!). :P
new $pendy console. The lock assembly broke in my 01
but I was lucky and it was under warranty.
Did you consider doing a junkyard search or even try flea-bay?
1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it something worse.
2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak.
3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour, and shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator is showing as being in another gear but will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
So far 111K of nearly trouble free miles.
getting 18mpg with 5.3 & 3.42 gears @ speeds up to 80 mph.
Have had excellent experience using Firestone Indy 265/70 16 tires & synthetic Castrol oil
K&N air filters. Frame seems kind of rubbery compared to the newer Fords and Dodges. However they are way too huge...
If the Colorado/Canyon offered a 5.3 it would be my next, but at nearly 4000 lbs the I5 3.5 engine doesn't get it.
My previous trucks I had 3" round blind spot mirrors-worked well, but not sure if I want to use them on this truck-it covers all but the very top of these signal lights.
The 2" spots look too small to be useful.
They work okay unless it is raining. P.
Anyone have any experience (Good or Bad) with the Truxedo-brand Truxport tonneau cover?
I originally was planning on going with a fiberglass shell/cap on my crew cab w/5'8" bed, but having hard time justifying $1600-1800 for the styles I like.
I've found the Truxport at a few places for around $225.
On previous trucks I've had ARE-brand hard tonneaus but they limited you on what could be hauled, but it was secure.
PS: I have also noticed my truck's suspension sags lower on one side (like many others posted here), and would also appreciate any advice/opinions regarding this!
Thanks in advance for any help!!!
Interested to know how well it works, ease of installation.
I'm going to put a Truxport cover on my truck, and thought maybe this tailgate lock would help to get in more security.
So why does GM still not incorporate a lock in the handle of the tailgate-couldn't they just use a driver's door handle assembly?
If this does not eliminate the problem, there is also possibility that either the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder are internally leaking, causing incomplete clutch release. I had this problem with a Mazda 626 car, but at 130K miles. Rebuilding the clutch master and slave cylinders and bleeding the hydraulic clutch circuit solved the problem of hard shifting into 1st gear.
A: Because they are cheapskates, trying to save a buck everywhere.
Some other examples of cheapness on part of GM:
1. the trip computer, which is built into each truck, but only functions if you buy the $ 125 optional steering wheel with 'redundant radio controls". Only LT3 Silverado has this as standard equipment.
2. lack of transmission oil temperature gauge on 1500 series trucks (even the ones with factory tow package), even though all trucks have a temperature sending unit already installed and prewired.
3. cheap plastic door handles standard even on fully optioned LT3 Silverado trucks. LT Suburbans and Tahoes get body colored door handles, which are much nicer.
4. cheap black plastic outside mirrors standard on all Silverado trucks, even if you order the optional power folding turn signal arrow mirros.
5. homelink transmitter not available as an individual option (even though you can get it on the Avalanche for about $ 120), unless you buy the sunroof with it for close to $ 1,000.
6. no power sliding rear window, not even available as a factory option on any Silverado truck (this being standard equipment now on many Titan and Tundra trucks)
7. deleting foglights as standard equipment in '06 LT1 Z71 Silverados
8. not providing a 7 pin to 4 flat pin adapter for tow package equipped trucks as a part of the package
9. not offering an electric brake controller as factory installed option, even with the towing pacakage equipped trucks
-Underhood light
-Cabin air filter
-Std. Locking spare tire
I missed those when I bought an '03. I didn't buy an '06.
side outer door lock, lumbar seat, glove box light,
bed side and cab corner bang strips.............
For the spare tire lock-I took mine out of my '03 before I traded it, and had a key made to fit it-put it in the '06.
I personally would rather have a locking tailgate than a lock for the spare tire-haven't heard of many spare tires getting stolen.
http://advancecover.com
well it don't seal very well, so oil seeps past it back to the pump, also when running unfiltered oil seeps past it goes into motor.
The Truxport mounts on top of the rails, and covers the stake pocket holes, and it still has the convenience to roll up like the others mentioned at about half the cost. So far it seems to keep the rain out.
so it matches the black bumber cover on the rear bumper.
Off the subject: Some of the companies are painting the front bumper and are still using the chromed bumper on the rear. I certainly do not like that approach. P.
Thanks
Add a supercharger
with certain mods.
A PCM (computer) burn tune is your best bet for better
mpg and performance at a reasonable cost.............
-David
Here is what usually happens. I come to the incline and give the pedal a nudge. I start to slow down with the incline. I give the pedal another nudge and continue to decelerate. When I give the pedal another slight nudge I usually shift into passing gear with a roar. :confuse:
It's really just a little nuisance, but I'd prefer to have more control over accelleration and passing gear.
Has anyone else had a similar problem? Is a v6 underpowered for the vehicle size? Does anyone have any advice?
of its torque and power band in OD UPHILL. You
have to expect it to drop a gear or 2 to keep up to
your desired speed.
Its just the nature of the v-6 beast............
BTW: My dad had a couple 90s v-6 full sizers and they
did the same thing.....................
Add to the fact these trannys are also very lazy about downshifting from OD....and you've got the "problem" figured out. My 5.3L never did this so IMHO, the 4.8 and (obviously) V6 are underpowered for this vehicle. I didn't benefit from better mpg either....15mpg was doing quite good on the highway. Usually averaged 13-14mpg in a mix regardless of how it was driven. Maybe your V6 will do better, but I figure mine had to work so much harder it made no difference. My 5.3L would average 18-20mpg on the highway and usually averaged 15-16mpg. Lesson learned I suppose.
I had to call the dealer and get the procedure to reset the alarm - I thought I wrote it down & it was safely stored in my glove box - wrong.
Anyone know what the correct procedure is? Or How to look it up.
It goes something like -
Put key in the ignition - turn on but do not start engine
Push lock then unlock button on remote three times - while holding your breath - do a handstand - start truck with one eye open - one eye closed.
Anyway, he said that headers, intake, exhaust, throttle body, rims etc were no problem as far as he was concerned. He did say that if I were to put in a supercharger I'd be hard pressed to convince him to warrant anything in the driveline and engine.
Course there are many that don't worry about such matters even if it is a GM product.