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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout



  • hunter98hunter98 Posts: 273
    The reason I think is because the C3 has FULL TIME 4wd, does the Denali have this?
  • Hi all. I'm new to the board and I was wondering if any one can clue me in on the pitiful mileage and moderate performance that I get with my 2001 GMC 2500 6.0L 4X4, 3:73 Auto

    I am lucky if I get 11.5 MPG (mixed driving). With todays technology that is just WRONG. (No I'm not lead footin it).

    My last pickup was a 1985 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 with a home built 454, turbo 400 (no overdrive), 4:10 gears and after market injection. This truck turned over 3000 RPM on the hwy at 70 MPH and I got about 12.5 MPG (mixed driving). Not to mention I could move small buildings with it. ;-)

    My brother has a 2001 Chevy 1500, 4X4, 5.3L, 3:42, auto and he is his mileage is in the high 14s in the same driving conditions. What bothers me more is when I go from my truck to his, I nearly squawk the tires on take off every time. I am accustom to having to use more throttle to get mine moving. Lets see. Smaller engine less gear and will smoke mine off of the line. What is wrong with this picture?!? I wonder how the two would do in a pull-off? Not that I could afford to do that to trucks this pricy.

    Don't get me wrong, I knew I would get worse mileage with my truck but I expected around 13. It ticks me off that the auto makers are not required to list mileage figures on trucks rated 8600 GVW or higher. My god how bad is the mileage with an 8.1L without the Alison option. 8 to 10?

    I have already replaced the air filter with a K&N and I added a soft tonneau. Both of which, I would have done regardless of mileage. That got me about 1/2 a MPG.

    I WILL be using synthetic oil at the first oil change. I have used synth in all of my vehicles for years. Any idea how much this might get me?

    I saw an earlier post referring to my model trans as a power-sink. I assume this is in part due to more rotating mass in the heavier duty model. Any more info on this trans? Will switching to synth trans fluid help at all?

    Finally. I am considering getting a Hypertech programer to optimise the engine tuning and shift points. The big 3 MUST compromise tuning to accommodate the masses. Has anyone had any experience with this?

    I love the bigger brakes, the firmer ride and all of the other goodies that you can only get on the 2500, but in my opinion unless you REALLY NEED the tow/haul capabilities of the 2500. Stick to the 1500.

    Any and all suggestions and comments are welcome.


    I have a buddy with a 3500 HD, crew cab, diesel on order. As soon as I get a review from him I will pass it along.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    How many miles on the truck? Usually mileage will increase a little up till 5-7000 miles. Synthetic trans and rear end will help mileage. I've had some experience with the HPIII. I know I wouldn't want to live without it. However, I have the 5.3. Overall I would expect the mileage you're getting, well, maybe hope for a little more but that's a lot more truck you're driving and I'll agree, if you don't need the tow/haul capacity, don't buy it. Then of course, the other train of thought. If you can afford it, go ahead and buy it if it's what you want.
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    Your 2500 has a taller first gear than the 1500, 2.48 vs 3.06. And about 900lbs more weight. And the throttle response of the 6.0L engine is not as crisp as the smaller engines. The 2500 is slower off the line.

    I have two Silverados, a 1500 w/4.8L and a 2500 w/6.0L. Driven identically, the 2500 gets 10-20% less fuel economy (Highway travel with a small popup camper, 1500 ave = 15.4mpg, 2500 ave = 14.0mpg; empty 20 vs. 16). If your brother is getting 14 mpg in his 1500, my guess is either a lot of high speeds (75+ mph) or a lot of in town commuting. 10-20% less than 14 mpg is 12.6-11.2 mpg, about what you are getting.

    The 2500s usually sit a little higher and that hurts the high speed mileage more than the in town stuff. My dad has a Silverado 1500 5.3L 3.42 and he always gets 20+ mpg empty. But he tends to drive 60 mph.

    My mileage and power increased after 10K miles, and yours should also. Keep the tires on the 2500 inflated to 50/80 psi for maximum fuel economy. Empty I run 45/40 psi for maximum comfort.

    Mike L
  • My 2000 2500 LT doesn't put enough heated air into the passenger's footwell. An end of year trip from Colorado to Tennessee had whoever wasn't driving setting there with a blanket wrapped around their feet to keep them warm. Outside temps. were 12 degrees and the driver was hot (baking actually) so the heater was putting out but not much was going into the right-side footwell.

    Is anyone else having any similar problems?

    My dealer and Chevy's Tech Support claim the heater is working to spec. but Customer Assistance noted that Chevy has a "Poor Heater Performance Review" for Silverados already going.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Rob Haas
  • ckulusckulus Posts: 24
    Is there a way to change the pitch of the horn in a 2001 Silverado 1500? If there is, then I have another question: exactly where is the horn?


    Chet Kulus
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    any of you guys heard of the poron sensor?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    ...yeah..with a hammer!

    ..Horn should be near front or side of engine compartment

    - Tim
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    don't use a hammer for adjusting horn pitch. actually tim, there is an adjustment screw that is held in a locked position by a locknut. it determines how much the horn diaphram moves which in turn allows a weaker or stonger volume from the horn.
  • I think Tim was making a joke! Lighten up.

  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    The adjustment screw is not for volume, it is to adjust the pitch of the horn. Each horn is designed and manufactured to work at a specific frequency. The adjustment screw is used to set the horn to that frequency.

    Mike L
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    I agree with Mike L's analysis. I'd personally go back to a stock filter.

    The other thing I'd do, is pull all the plugs after some light highway driving and check mixture. If plugs are reading good, then you pretty much are getting about what you should.

    BTW, I'm a leadfoot, drive a 4.8L manual 4x4 4.10, and get 16mpg most of the time empty, towing down to a low of 7mpg, and running 82mph on the interstate with the bed loaded with camping gear and a dirtbike, round trip 400 miles I got a little below 15mpg. I have a 2500HD CC 4x4 5speed on order, and expect to get about what you get for mileage. And if we had the 8.1 we'd probably get 15 to 20% less mileage....
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    So let me see if I got this right.

    Pitch = Frequency
    Volume = not Pitch
    Screw = Pitch
    Volume = not Screw then......

    Not Pitch = Not Screw
    Frequency = Screw

    Ok I think I get it now.....maybe.

    Heck, I think I like Tim's hammer idea afterall, but was that for Pitch or Volume?

    (this was a joke also Titus1)

  • Has anyone experienced a vibration or shimmy at the rear of the bed with 2001 Duramax/Allison extended cab long bed with about 1200 miles from new? Any known fixes or mods?
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123

    Screw = Frequency

    then you haven't been married long enough.

    Mike L
  • Don't wanna have to use that delete button.


    Pickups message Board
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    was for volume AND tone....any volunteers as to have me show it to?

    .....we can explain if you need it Poco?...ahh just ask Ricki....he knows it all

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    ..I wonder if the hammer works for tone and volume on people too?

    ...Hey titus....come here


    - Tim
  • erikf2erikf2 Posts: 100
    Don't forget, in Tim's case it's...

    Hammer=Married TOO long

    Oh dang! Here comes that delete button!

  • I can't agree. Pitch and volume are not related. Pitch is frequency (typically measured in hertz) volume is ... well... volume, (typically measured in decibels). My human ears have no trouble telling the difference between quiet high pitches and loud low pitches.

    Not an arguement, just have a hard time letting you mis-state facts.
  • titus1titus1 Posts: 45
    what are you talking about?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    You need to either delete #143 and #144 OR just #144 along with this one. Hey [non-permissible content removed], this is getting old real fast....ya know!!
  • Either that or let's just start all over. Here's the original post that started this whole subject:

    #127 of 148 Horn pitch by ckulus Feb 10, 2001 (04:16 pm) Hello, Is there a way to change the pitch of the horn in a 2001 Silverado 1500? If there is, then I have another question: exactly where is the horn?

    Titus- Being an audiology minor in college, I know what willimjo (post 143) is talking about. People in previous posts were using the word "pitch."

    "Pitch" has to do with frequency... (hertz level) high/lows of a particular sound. In layman's term we could describe these high/lows as soprano vs baritone.

    Now "Volume" has to also has to do with "decibel level"; in layman's terms that would be how loud something is... i.e. from a whisper to a shout.

    In other words, pitch and volume have two different meanings. (something a lot of people mix up) So the real question is was Clukus asking about the pitch/hertz level, or was he referring to "volume" or the decibel level?

    Until we have the answer to that, there's no point in quibbling over this any more. Btw, if this message doesn't help clarify a few things, let's just move onto another subject. Okay? Talk later. ;-)

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  • the hell is going on here?????

  • and this might make a little sense to you. If not, just as well. ;-)

    Pickups Message Board
  • sartisarti Posts: 16
    I know this has been beat to death but can anyone give me some info on leveling out my 2000 Silverado Z71 ext/cab other than lowering the rear end? I know it's suppose to be like this so when your hauling a load it will level out. But I don't haul that many heavy loads. It just looks bad to me. Theres about 2 1/2" to 3" difference (as you all know) has anyone cranked the torsion bars and how much does it take? How was the ride afterwards? I really like my truck, but this is driving me nuts. THANKS
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    rear tires....screwin with the torsion bar for three inches will substantially roughen the ride. From the sounds of it, I would go with the 2/4 drop to get it level since the truck isn't a hauler why not get it to car height?
  • their opinion on certain heated matters, let please move on to an appropriate subject for this discussion.

    Several posts were deleted because they were not within the guidelines of our Town Hall terms of use. In addition, for the sake of continuity, other messages that were in response to these posts were also deleted.

    If further explanation is needed, please send my an email. Thanks.
    PS: This message will soon be deleted.

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This discussion has been closed.