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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

16970727475110

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    volfan4volfan4 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 1999 silverado xcab z71 with 51000 miles what can be done about the drivkine calnk when it goes in reverse?also what about the shakey steerig feel ?had the steering shaft replaced under warranty at 18000 miles thanks!
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    have you greased the spline where the 2 driveshafts meet between the tranny and rearend?

    i had the steering shaft replaced in my '00 and it's been fine since..............the '01 however recieved the repacking kit and it's been quiet as well.............but niether truck has show steering shake.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Especially the early 99's that had the vibrations and had to have the spindles replaced under warranty? I remember this board was hopping about those spindles that caused the vibrations. Course the dealers were telling the owners that it was the tires......
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    also have the shaking in the steering, been told to "load balance the tires" from three dealerships.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    is that like putting water in the tires?........aka.........farming technique ala tractors to keep them front ends down in the ground?
    good luck on this one now!
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    If i had any clue what they meant, id try it! Ill bring it up again since i have a constant tick in my engine now not just on start up so i have to go scream at the dealership...again.
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    slr9589slr9589 Member Posts: 121
    Hi,
    I am a former dodge dakota quad cab board member here at edmunds.The quad is gone and a huge gmc sierra crew cab has taken it's place...6 liter engine,leather,2wd,every gizmo known to man,and i really like it!!wife says I should keep it for minumum of 10 years!
    anyway, I'll keep reading and posting when I can
    stephen
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    sounds like one heck of a truck. let us know how you like it.
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    hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Welcome, I too recenty jumped ship from the quad boards. My 2004 Chevy is on order now and should be here in Jan.

    Good luck.

    Robert
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    alnolealnole Member Posts: 7
    Having a problem with my heat in the truck. Noticed that when I move the temp gauge to warm air that no warm air is produced. Truck runs fine, engine was warm, but no warm air. I don't have a heater, just A/C but once engine is warm should have the warm air as I understand it. Any ideas out there, thanks in advance!
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    slr9589slr9589 Member Posts: 121
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    slr9589slr9589 Member Posts: 121
    HI ALL,
    JUST FINISHED A SMALL CHRISTMAS SHOPPING EXCURSION WHERE I HELD THE CRUISE CONTROL AT 68 FOR 225 MILES AND ENDED THE DAY WITH 17.6 MPGS !!!!NOT BAD FOR A MUSCLE TRUCK
    STEPHEN
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    kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Just returned from Thanksgiving feast in Texas.
    For the record if anyone is interested:
    2500HD, 8.1L, Xcab, LB, 4WD, AT.

    Tank #1-10.6 mpg(???)
              2-12.92
              3-13.92
              4-11.92 (hyway + local)
              5-13.48
              6-14.0
              7-13.87

    Don't know what happened on that first fill.
    Haven't topped since returning so don't have last tank, but expect 13 plus.
    This question remains unanswered, why does anyone who buys a truck with a 500 cid engine care about fuel mileage? :-)

    BTW- I'll say this again, if you ever try deep fried turkey, you'll never go back.

    -David
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Love my BedRug. Easy to install. Quality piece of work all around. The only slight negative: the sides could be formed to fit a little more snugly to the shape of the bed. I wouldn't drag anything heavy and sharp across it though. It doesn't look all that tough.
    I have similar fuzz on the inside of a SnugTop; When sleeping back there, it's like having a built-in teddy bear.

    -David
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Alnole,

    Try checking the heater control valve. Maybe the cable is moving to open but the valve is not thus you won't get any circulation into heater core. Is the heater core plugged ?

    Ray T.
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    alnolealnole Member Posts: 7
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    jeffreybaxterjeffreybaxter Member Posts: 1
    No matter what speed I am at I get a buzz/vibration in the gas pedal. I know there is a TSB for this concerning Brake booster check but mine is constant.
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    hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Amen! Fried Turkey (Especially Cajun Fried) is the best.
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    uncommonmanuncommonman Member Posts: 65
    Also, check the antifreeze level in the radiator. Don't just check the overflow tank, take the cap off the radiator and check there too. If it's low, that is likely the "no heat" problem.
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    jtt3jtt3 Member Posts: 20
    Also check for an air-lock in the heater core or hoses to and from core. Sometimes a pocket of air will restrict the coolant flow.
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    gearhedgearhed Member Posts: 26
    Read a while back where someone wants to run a heavy #4 gauge wire thru the firewall from the battery terminal. Would suggest a good circuit breaker or fuse holder as close to the battery terminal as possible. If this wire ever rubs thru, it could start a fire.
       BTW, my mileage with a Z71 4x4 ext cab w 4800 vortec is about 13.8 mpg.
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    gearhedgearhed Member Posts: 26
    I have a new (since June 2003), 2003 Z71 4x4 LS extended cab with the 4800 vortec with a 3.73 locker. It has a little over 5k miles. I plan to add dual exhaust, and K&N air filter soon. My target is 350 horsepower. What else should I change to get to this power goal? I don't want to buy new heads or mill the block. I'm thinking about changing the camshaft or reprogramming the controller.
       Thanks for any money saving ideas.
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
         Here's one for you. Some time back I tore the rubber boot for the shift lever while replacing the trim bezel on the instrument panel. So I bought a new one and the parts guy tells me, "Don't try to stretch it over the lever knob; It'll split. Take the lever off and put it on from the bottom." "Ok, thanks for the tip." Sounded simple enough, right?
         Turns out, in order to disconnect the wire for the Tow/Haul switch, so the lever can be removed and the wire snaked through the new boot, the lower trim piece for the steering column has to be unsnapped and the knee bolster removed under which the wire is connected, which can't happen without the instrument panel extension first being removed which requires the removal of the tape player, then THE CENTER CONSOLE!......Huh? What was the target again?
    I don't think I've ever had that many parts in one pile before.

    -David
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    David, reminds me that when I first got my truck, with about 50 miles on it, I was trying to fit my com radios in the console, and wound up with not only half the dash, all to the console pieces but the drivers seat as well. My wife walked around the corner into the garage and her comments though appropriate, do not bear repeating here... something like you tore your new truck apart? ... with some added expletives for emphasis. Decided to put it back together and get new updated smaller radios.. :-|

    But did you find the mouse?
    matthew
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    to run a 4ga wire thru the firewall without using a grommet.
    the inline fuse should be no more than 8" away from the battery and this is a no brainer.
    i'm up to 1,800 watts total with components and sub.........not the most powerful system in the world, but definately in need of an upgraded ground.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Easiest way to 350 HP is a 100 shot of nitrous. Depending on where you're living you could also hollow out those cats. Between the two 350 is no problem.

    Those bolt ons are a waste of time.

    seelig-

    Still got that phat ride eh?

    4 ga? What ever happened to 0 or 00?
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
         :-) No, I didn't find the mouse, but I did gain a new but mixed appreciation of GM engineering; On the one hand you can't help but marvel at the design and how nifty things go together (once you figure it out). And on the other, what a gross oversight it is that in order to replace the boot you have to REMOVE THE CENTER CONSOLE!, which could easily have been avoided by simply using a rubber compound for the boot that allows it to be stretched over the lever knob. Guess no one's perfect.

         Here's one for GM knocker owners; My sister's dog, a Shelty, loves her son who drives PowerStroke. Every time he pulls into the driveway the dog hears it from inside the house and has a fit in anticipation. We're all at mom's during Thanksgiving week and I decide to move my 8.1L out of the drive on an especially chilly morning. The dog has the same fit..... Sigh.

    -David
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    LMAO........well it's 112K old now.........just got the mich's rotated and have gotten 80K out of them so far.
    Wife's '00 is being replaced with a Jag.......
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    From my understanding there's a couple made by Jag with Ford's influence...which may be good. And those that are still made by Jag which cost more but not necessarily better.

    Personally, I like this one the best...if I was single that is....

    image
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    the Ford thing had me quite concerned, as the X-type is the one we are looking at.
    been talking to the folks at Jagtalk.(blank) and the concensus is that the X is derived from the Mondeo.........first year problems were Trannies that were replaced.
    other than that and a substantial price drop in the '04 X-type 3.0, there have been no further issues.
    you needn't tell me about Ford though as you how much i find Ford to be a piece of (blankity blank blank)...........but the wife just loves the styling of the X.
    Ford owns Jag (sigh')..........but even though i'm still researching the pending purchase, i've found a lot of info that supports the fact that Jag is still Jag.............however, the friggin 46 dollar Jag oil filter has a Ford part number that works too..........Doh!

    you finally got all the bugs worked outa the Rado?
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    My HTML is ok so the link must not be. Let me try again...

    image

    image

    Would've helped if I copy/pasted correctly...

    I think the best thing Ford could do for Jag is give them a motor that works. I remember back when everyone was dropping a 350 in their jag cause they got tired of fixing the original.

    Rado other than the ac being trashed at 36,700 miles and the rack leaking at 37,500 miles has been fine thanks to the extended warranty. I could just imagine not having it.

    Picked up a '02 Denali which is a little better than the '00 since the redesign. The General Sales Manager of the GMC dealership was a little leary selling it to me since he was the one that approved the rado deal back in '99 and seen me one time too many in the Chevy service department.

    Got some rimz and exhaust on it and as soon as I figure out how to drop it without affecting the autoride and how to disable onstar I can upgrade the stereo and dump the bose. Then it will probably qualify as a bling bling mobile.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    the Denali is a sweet machine..........daughter just bought an Envoy...........awesome machine!
    i'm glad GMC didn't screw up the front end like chevy did to the rado.
    most popular trucks out here are the "pre-Avalanched" rados.......;-))
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    jimstaffjimstaff Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 litre; 76,000 mi. After start up (cold or hot) the idle is sometimes rough and it usually dies when parking, stopping, or turning one time. after that its OK.
    Dealer says it needs a throttle body clean out ($300 +) and re programmed.
    Does this sound right and why should it cost so much?
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    and unless i'm mistaking, this sounds like an emissions related problem and this should be covered by the warranty for emission related parts...
    do you smell unburned fuel?
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    throttle body cleanout is $300? WOAH NELLY! I just seen some throttle body cleaner today at meier for $2.99 a can. Should take you 15 min and $2.99 plus tax to do it yourself.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    "$2.99"............and DIY?...........this is hardly supporting your local ripoff.......errrrrrrr, i mean "mr. goodwrench"........
    good luck on this one now!
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    txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    stuff is usually 50k miles.
    "I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 litre; 76,000 mi"
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Ditto what seelig stated LOL

    On the same subject, wasn't there an issue with the type of cleaner to NOT use since it would be harmful to certain parts?

    Iv'e never done anything with mine in the 46k I have on it but never had an issue with it sticking either.

    Ray T.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    is the coverage for the catalytic converter.
    looked it up today and there are quite a few parts that are covered up to 70,000 miles that are emission related.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I had a sticky throttle body took it in under warranty (for a cleaning) and they put in a new one (FREE!)

    The dealer sells a fuel injection service kit. They are like $40 and it comes with the TB Cleaner
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Acetone will clean anything including finger nail polish......something like magnets and hard drives.
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    txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    "80,00 miles is the coverage for the catalytic converter.
     looked it up today and there are quite a few parts that are covered up to 70,000 miles that are emission related."
     
    Ah so.......Gubmnt must have made them increase the coverage.
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Youv'e been hanging out in the sun to long !!!
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Yeah that's probably true. It never ceases to amaze me reading the posts here.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    "Yeah that's probably true. It never ceases to amaze me reading the posts here."..........Why?....
    good luck on this one now!
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    tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    Sorry. Off-topic. BUT...

    How will my '91 K1500, 4.3(not vortec), 5sp function handling a utility trailer that's 3,000# +/- (including mowing equipment) on a regular basis? This will be in a hilly county of the Blue Ridge Mountains. I generally drive like a geezer & interstate speeds are not practical or legal in this area. I have pulled this rig around a few times in the past with no noticeable problems. Don' want to spend more time in the shop than I do cutting grass.

    Just thought some of you have surely had experience, opinion, or advice about the old C/K trucks.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    "Yeah that's probably true. It never ceases to amaze me reading the posts here."..........Why?....
    good luck on this one now!

    tsuga

    How many miles on that 4.3?
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    "Yeah that's probably true. It never ceases to amaze me reading the posts here."..........Why?....
    good luck on this one now!
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    tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    173,000 mi. Runs as well now as it did in '91. Uses very little oil. No major probs. - just things that you expect if you keep one a long time.
This discussion has been closed.