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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Be prepared for things to start "going" since your now going to haul with it. 173k is a lot of miles but routine maint. is the key. But remember the GM slogan "Like a Rock"
    My 88 Ext Cab w/the 4.3 had 88k on it when I started towing a 19', 3500 lb. travel trailer, the tranny went at 112k.

    Ray T.
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    kg11kg11 Member Posts: 530
    Is that 3500 lb travle trailer all you tow with your '00 threequarter ton ?

    Sounds like you recomend moving up to a bigger truck.

    kip
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    No, sold that 19' and bought a 28' travel trailer @6600 lbs. Doing the math I am just at my max allowable fully loaded w/the 2500.
    Another thing too on my old 88 was at 85k had to rebuild the motor, was using qt.of oil every 200 miles. I think my volunteer fire/ambulance dept activity had a lot to do with that. When your on call during the winter months and it's -20 outside the truck only had 30 seconds to warm up before I blasted off to make the 4 miniute response time, that took a toll on the motor. The 4.3 has been around for quite awhile though and is a dependable one.

    Ray T.
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    tsugatsuga Member Posts: 13
    What about clutch, trans., ...and any other components important to towing. What gets the worst beating & is most likely to give out?

    3,000 isn't a lot, but day-in & day-out w/steep hills & high mileage thrown in does give me a little concern. I really don't want to invest in a new(er) truck just yet.
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    highdesertrathighdesertrat Member Posts: 11
    I'm getting close to buying a new truck. I would like to buy a 2500 with the 6.0 engine for towing a trailer but I'm concerned about the mileage for commuting to work. What kind of mileage is realistic with 3.73 gears? Thanks Brian
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    My brother-in-law gets around 12-14 with his 6.0L thats mostly highway driving.
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I would suspect the cluth to be the biggest concern not the trans. I have never towed with a manual trans. vehicle so maybe someone else out here who has can chime in........

    Ray T.
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    texsuntexsun Member Posts: 23
    I have the 02 1500HD, 6.0L w/3.73, currently at 49K. I get between 13.2 to 14.7 with hi-way/city mix. Avg 15.5 straight hi-way, 11-13 when pulling a 26' travel trailer. I've installed Flowmaster duals and K&N 2d Gen FIPK, made a BIG difference in performance, not so much on mileage (could be my heavy foot, love to hear the duals).

    A friend has the 2500HD, 6.0L, 4.10 and the best he can ever get is 10.2 MPG. The 2500 HD is a little heavier, don't think it would change the MPG that much with the 3.73.
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Have the FIPK on my 5.3 with flowmaster duals...gotta love that sound!!! And i dont think its your heavy foot, i have seen no increase in fuel mileage either.
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    texsuntexsun Member Posts: 23
    No, I didn't notice much of a difference in MPG when I installed the FIPK or the FlowMasters. But I love the increased performance and the sound! I've got a Tornado air piece coming in this week and will see how it does. My brother put one in his 6.0L with the OEM K&N and loved the difference in power. He also noticed a 1 to 1.5 MPG increase on the hi-way. Will let you know if it's worth the money.
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    psgpsg Member Posts: 72
    Guide Rating - 1/2 star out of a possible 5.

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/productreviews/fr/aafpr052002.htm

    Good luck!
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    DITTO on your posting, it's a "perception thing". I had read this article as well as another article on this same device and the same results were found as you stated. Both reports said to save your money and invest in a tune-up if you think there is something wrong with your vehicles performance. I took my wife out to dinner instead and had a much better payback LOL !

    Ray T.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Matt,

    I am getting things ready for this spring (when it gets warm again). You said you replaced your brake fluid. How did you do it? Sucked out the old fluid and put in new? What kinda fluid did you use and how much does the reservoir hold?

    Thanks man
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    williamk38williamk38 Member Posts: 20
    I am about to purchase a full size truck. I have been driving an SUV for the last few years and have never owned a truck. I have done the Ford vs. Chevy driving comparisons, etc. I am choosing a Chevy. I think the size, ride and engine(5300) is better.

    Now my question.

    Would anyone have any concerns with buying a 2001 1500 Extended Cab 4X4 Z71 with 65,000 miles on it? If I am right this truck should get me to 200k if taken care of properly right? Also, the repairs should be pretty easy and cheap, right? or at least cheaper than a Toyota, foreign, etc.?

    Last question. Does this truck require Premium fuel or can you run it on Regular?

    Thanks for the help.
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    You can change it completely, which requires you to bleed all four wheels or do just the master cylinder. Suck out the old and replace with new, this is a short change but works fine if unable to do otherwise. Use DOT 5 or better since truck has disc brakes.

    Ray T.
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Ryan, I used the "turkey baster" to get fluid out of M/C. Then refilled with a premium super heavy duty DOT 3. I think it was Prestone... takes about 1/2 to 3/4 of the quart.

    (BTW there are only a couple of companies that actually manufacturer this stuff, everyone pretty much packages it in their own bottle. Bell Chemical Labs is one that I think I remember that is a main supplier.)

    Using a piece of clear plastic hose that is the right diameter to fit snugly over the bleeder valve, and the other end into a jar with some fluid (about 1/2 inch in a typical large "jelly" jar) set up a siphon on the RR wheel caliper bleeder. When the fluid runs clear in the hose, you're done. Watch you don't run the reservoir out of fluid...just check it a couple of times... should take about 15 min to clear the line.

    Then go to the LR caliper, then the RF, then finally the LF. When the clear hose shows the fluid is clear then move on.

    Take your time and close the bleeder valve before you remove the hose. Sorry I didn't take any pictures, but I think I have a drawing that I can send if you need it.

    Have fun,
    matthew
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Rayt2, I would very strongly recommend AGAINST using DOT 5 ( which is mostly found to be silicone) in the 'rado brake system. The industry has stated that due to the fact that DOT 5 silicone fluid does NOT give up aireated bubbles easily (maybe as long as 24 hours) it is not recommended to be used in any brake system that has an electric motor/pump in it. The Kelsey Hayes EBC325 that is used on our trucks since 1999 has just such a motor/pump.

    No flame just want to keep the record straight.

    matthew
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Save your money!!! I had one in my truck, casued it to miss and have a very bad idle. Took the Tornado out and wouldnt ya know it, truck works fine again! First hand account, put the money into something worth wild to make it faster or better looking, cuz tornado are just peices of S..... oh wait cant say that here.
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    thuntleythuntley Member Posts: 1
    3500 Dual wheel durmax/allison crew LB - buying for towing gooseneck trailer... most of the time. LT loaded $43,000 before incentives... looked at Ford, Dodge I think this is the best combo. Gentleman looking for some honest feedback before I write the check.
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I own a 2001 Z-71 with ext-cab, 5.3L, 3.73, etc. I reach my 3 year anniversary in 4 days, with 27, 150 miles on it. I've never had it in the shop for repairs until just last week. I wanted get all of the little fixes done free before my warranty expired. Here is what I had fixed.

    1. Rattle feeling in steering wheel when going over bumps - Intermediate steering shaft replaced.

    2. Single loud clank sound from inside driver’s door when rolling up driver’s window - Regulator unit in the electric window replaced.

    3. Occasional clunking/jolting sound/feeling from back end when braking & almost stopped, or when releasing brake from a stop. - Replace yoke in drive line with upgraded one.

    These three problems were all fixed under warranty and now the truck is back to being perfect, just like it was on the day I bought it new.

    With regards to the fuel, I always use 89 octane from Chevron or Union 76, with no knocking or pinging even when towing. GM recommends you use 87 octane.

    Hope this helps.
    -David
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    did they just replace the yoke or did they also change the transfer case fluid? So the new yoke actually did help?

    I found something funny that mine doesnt clunk when the truck is in auto or 4 wheel hi.
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    mattwhomattwho Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 GMC Sierra Ext Cab 1500 with the center console. I want the middle seat. Any want to trade or know where I can get a middle seat aftermarket? According to the dealer they can be switched out.
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    I saw a middle seat deal in the Performance Products catalog (they have a website that drops the space between the words). It is made by Cerullo, comes is fabric or leather, OE colors, and with or without cup holders. $349 / fabric; $459 / leather.

    You might try eBay also. Do a search on Silverado as well as Sierra. Might find one from truck being parted out.

    Hope this helps

    matthew
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Your right about the silicone fluid, but, I have found and used DOT 5 non silicone brake fluid.
    The silicone I use in my classic car but that was only after flushing everything and changing all rubber parts. It will not absorb moisture like the regular brake fluids do and the ole classic sits for longer periods in a garage w/dehumidifier to help control the enviorment.

    Ray T.
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    texsuntexsun Member Posts: 23
    Too late - but I appreciate the warnings on the Tornado air system. Ordered it last Saturday, still waiting on it to come in. I did go read the AutoRepair website, but again, too late......

    Talked to my youngest brother again this morning, who I mentioned before had installed it in his, and he is still happy with it. We bought identically equipped trucks (me - 02 GMC/him - Chevy)two months apart, he has over 100,000 miles on his, I'm at 49,000. I installed the K&N FIPK, him the K&N OEM drop-in. Both are running FlowMasters. His last two tanks have averaged 15.3 in and around Houston. I'll give it a go and see what happens. Will let ya'll know how it works out - good or bad..... Happy Holidays to all!
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    z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    It has been a little cooler than normal for Houston (overnight low in the mid 30's) and it has been taking my truck about 15 minutes to reach the normal (just under 210) operating temp. This may be normal - but just for the hell of it I thought I would replace the thermostat - I have done this on other cars / trucks and it took less than 30 minutes and cost less that $5.

    I took a quick look at the point where the top radiator hose goes into the engine - and it did not look like it was the "normal" set up.

    Does anyone know how to replace the thermostat in the 5.3L ?
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Ray, I got to thinking and doing some research on this subject. (All to often I step in it..heh) Some things to think about:

    DOT 3 401 Degrees F Dry 284 Degrees F Wet

    DOT 4 446 Degrees F Dry 311 Degrees F Wet

    DOT 5 500 Degrees F Dry 356 Degrees F Wet

    Silicone brake fluid falls into the DOT 5 range. There are some alternitives to the adverse situation of a spongy pedal with silicone. \

    When I was involved in FRAM/Autolite motorsports, I ran across Wilwood 570 which is a glycol fluid with a 570 Degree Dry point. Their website,

    www.precisionbrakescompany.com/wilwood_brake_flu- id.html,

    also lists a EXP600 fluid with 626 Degrees Dry and 417 Degrees Wet points. As one might imagine a price to match. (sorry you'll have to copy and paste, I forgot how to do html ref's in this),

    Incidently, A wet boiling point is reached with about 4 - 5% moisture absorbtion.

    I guess it costs money to go fast (or stop quick), how fast do you want to go (or stop)?

    matthew
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    ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Check eBay, or try and locate some conversion companies who take out the factory seats. Maybe try some salvage yards in your area?
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    bowtieman1bowtieman1 Member Posts: 38
    The snow is flying in NE Ohio. Have a question about the autotrac function on my 03, Z71 LT. When the autotrac is engaged, on snow and ice, it has been typical to sense no wheel slip when prior to 4WD actually engaging. My 00 truck was seamless when 4WD was needed. This truck was initially good but lately the wheels slip and the front hubs engage after about a second of rear wheel slip causing the truck to make a serious clunk when 4WD engages. IS this adjustable by the dealer?? I plan to take it to my dealer soon and have them look at it. Any imput out there??
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    gordonhgordonh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 2500 with 7,000 on it. Pulled a trailer out of the mountains and found that my oil smelled burnt. Dealer changed the oil took a sample and cleaned the pan out. Said they could find nothing wrong and that the oil pan had a slick black film in it which they cleaned out. Waited for the oil sample to come back and they said they lost it. I now have a couple more thousand on it and the oil is turning black again. Anyone else seen this.
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    rich32rich32 Member Posts: 9
    I have a '01 Silverado 1500 4WD, 34,000 miles. When backing up with the wheels turned I am beginning to hear a noise like something is binding up in the front. Took it to the dealer but it was one day out of warranty. They say they will do a diagnostic on it and if warrantable will repair it. But if it is non-warrantable I will be responsible for an estimated $185 diagnostic bill. The noise is not loud. My brother says his truck does this but it has 100k miles on it.

    Any thoughts on this? If this is common and I've just never noticed it before I don't want to spend $185 for them to tell me that they can't find anything wrong.

    Thanks!
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    rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Yup, I needed the higher boiling point for my classic after learning the hard way about brake fade at speed. I was boiling the fluid! That's one of the two reasons why I made the switch to silicone, the other was the moisture absorbtion issue (hygro.... something it's called)

    Ray T.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    don't you think there is something a little peculiar when they say they have to do a diagnostic (meaning they don't know), but are able to give you an estimate?

    sounds you are hearing, are they like a clunk-clunk?
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The sound you're hearing is the crossmember binding and releasing. The dealer is going to have a hard time diagnosing this one cause more than likely will take two people, the conditions have to be right, and the techs have to be paying attention. The probability of all three occuring at the same time is nil.

    The fix is to slack all of the crossmember bolts, then retorque to factory specs. The crossmember is the one that gets in the way when trying to change the trans filter.
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    take what Obyone says to be the real truth here..........if anyone knows the Rado inside out it's Oby.
    however, the procedure sounds way too difficult for the Dealer............better to send the truck to the islands and have the pro work on it........
    good luck on this one now!
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    diagnostic fee? If the truck is under warranty (01 with only 34K miles then it is under warranty) it should be covered. Unless you made some modification which caused the problem
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    "3. Occasional clunking/jolting sound/feeling from back end when braking & almost stopped, or when releasing brake from a stop. - Replace yoke in drive line with upgraded one."

    All they did was replace the yoke, no fluid was replaced as far as I know. Problem is 100% gone.

    As for the intermediate steering shaft replacement, the dealer use to just rebuild them using that special new grease. But after too many complaints that the problem would come back after awhile, they started replacing them rather than re-greasing them. No more complaints.
    -David
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Guy said was "one" day out of warranty...think means three years plus one day? lol

    seelig- got enough of them trucks here. don't need no more especially them creakin ones. lmao
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    local dealer ran a poll to see what people wanted in the next Rado............most requested update was to bring the '99-'02 front ends back........LOL
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    stef7stef7 Member Posts: 22
    I'm shopping for a scan tool for the OBDII system.
    I looked on the net but I was wondering if any of you have one.

    I noticed that a Palm is needed or a link to your PC and also a hotsync cable. I can't figure out what is the best way to go.

    From what I've seen on their web site, you could read and clear the DTC's going on in the OBDII, view in real-time the sensors data and many other things.

    Any input to guide me in the purchase would be greatly appreciate. Thanks

    Stef
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    thanks for the clarification. I had just got home from work when i read that. Its funny how I had 9 days off (vacation) and didnt have a headache then the first day back I have a splitting headache when i get home. Wonder if i can get permanent disability haha
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Nine days vacation? Is this at Home Depot or Lowe's? lmao. You worked at this new job long enough to accumulate vacation time? Wow time does fly.

    stef7

    I've had the autotap for a couple of years now. Depending on what you want/need it for, it pretty much does all that I need and in some cases it does things I have no clue on. Wish I could be of more help.
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    stef7stef7 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks Obyone for the info, but I have one more question. Is the scan tool can be use for parameters modification (like timing etc...) or is it a read-only instrument?

    Stef
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    out there in central CA??? Seelig, you out there causing them earthquakes?

    Stef most all scan tools are read only. The only ones that I know of that are bi directional are the dealership/OE proprietary scan tools... $1.5k + plus updates... ouch... if you want to do some modifications to various parametners, the aftermarket chip/plug-in devices seem to work OK.

    matthew
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    seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    it's them Avalanched Rado's causin' all them there quakes..........LOL
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    gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    Here in Pasadena we felt the office buildings sway
    with that earthquake.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Autotap is basically a read only device. If you want one that can adjust timing, air/fuel mixture, etc. you need to be looking at a Predator.

    http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=516&fcmd=it- em&inmake=all

    http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/predatorgmtruck.htm
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    After 6 months I got a week vacation (9 days included weekends). Yea I have enough time i am at almost 7 months now haha. It really ticked people off I got a vacation so soon. Cant wait to see what they say when 1 yr comes around (i wont even tell you how many weeks i get but its the last number in the year 2003 haha)

    Everyone finish their xmas shopping? I finished today. Took my truck in for emission testing (darn indiana laws) then went and bought the silverstar fog light bulbs :)

    Happy holidays everyone
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Isn't going to melt the housing is it?
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I had the reg 893 sylvanias (893s 38 watt vs stock 880s which are 27 watt) for about a yr and a half with no problems. I put the new ones in tonight. They match the headlights now (not yellow anymore). I doubt they will melt the old ones didnt and plus its freezing cold outside haha and snowing i might add.
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