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To check, just roll under your cab, passenger side & locate the big oblong bulb-ish looking piece that is connected to your exhaust, usually just under where your passenger seat is located (but under the truck of course).
Just kind of tap it with the palm of your hand (maybe a little harder than tapping, more like a solid trust) and see if that sounds familiar. More than likely the element inside has expired & would be rolling around loose in the metal housing. If you bang it & it's just solid, no rattling at all then it's probably something else.
The crappy part is... if you live in California then you can only get an OBD2 compliant replacement which is about $456. No aftermarket alternative on that one. Though you will find them online for $56, $188 or $240 you must read the fine print because they're not OBD2 compliant & not valid in CA. OBD2's are ONLY available at the dealership.
I have an S-10 Ls ext. cab vortec 4.3 4x4 and want to use it for offroading so i was considering lifting my truck as well. Also i want to get some protective skid plates on the bottem to protect the under chase from rocks and etc. Does anyone have experience with offroading with there S-10? if so did it preform well or was it a waste of time?
Thanks, Pete
Joe
Maybe this can help ???
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-003B
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light
(Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet
Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models:
1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models
1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice : Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
Important : "GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and 90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
I have "heard" of the intake manifold to head gasket leaking in the front or rear ends of the manifold. This will allow coolant into front or rear cylinders ... If it is just leaking a little - you get a rough engine - if it's leaking a lot - it can fill up the pistons affected and cause a hydrostatic lock - and the engine will not turn .... Try a compression test on the cylinders ..... and look at the plugs when you pull them to see if they look wet (and smell them for the antifreeze ...).
All I can think of right now ....
Good Luck!
See an Earlier Post I made on this - not sure if this is your problem though - Mine was the seam between the roof and the corner post not being sealed in the inside ...
Good Luck!
If memory serves me - a vacuum gauge will quickly show a stuck valve. Instead of a steady state at Idle the needle will "dip" drastically on every revolution of the engine ...
I'd do a Cylinder pressure test (wet and dry) on each cylinder as well. With the pressure test and vacuum checks you'll have a better idea of the mechanicals and also a record for future reference ...
A stong fuel smell at the exhaust may be Ok when the engine is still cold as more gas is poured into the engine until it get up to Temp. But as you said a "Strong" smell may not be right ...
Good Luck!
I had an uner chassis rear rattle on intial engine start up - turned out to be a loose baffle plate inside the muffler.
I'd get under the truck and really shake the exhaust - check both the muffler and the Converter (expecially the heat shield!!!)
Good Luck!
Will have to check to see if I have a 3/8" allen, if not, a good excuse to get some more tools.
Thank you
In the winter the floor and area between the door and the seat are very cold and we can feel air moving. It is worst on the Drivers side and when the heat is on! The dealer has been unable to find the problem. They checked the weather striping and have adjusted the door. We feel it might be coming from the front and not the doors but can't be sure.
There is also an annoying squeaking noise coming either from the rear side windows or seatbelt pillars, most loud on the Drivers side. Dealer has been unable to find the problem. They tried lubricating the weather striping around the windows with no luck.
Have you figured out how to remove the old latch? If so, could you please share with me. The initial response to your question #464 has me unsure of how to replace the latch.
Thank you very much.
As for the Air leaking - take a 1" or 2" wide strip of paper and competely close the door on it. From the inside pull the paper - it should drag quite a bit - or not be able to be pulled out/through at all. Repeat for the entire door area/edges. This takes som time - but it should show where the seal is not touching ... Also, especially check the third door !! I had to elongate my bottom striker attachment holes to get my 3rd door to close all the way at the bottom (door was rattling and had traffic /wind noise behind the driver....).
My first 2001 (that the dealer had to buy back from me - long story, another time ...) had "Clicking" in the rear back area. Turned out to be a suspected spot welds bad and rubbing together. What they did to prove this was remove the rear trim below the side and back windows (ext. cab) - Remove these and get somone in the vehicle with you behind the seats and have him listen and locate the rattle (be sure it's not just the jump seat / jump seat seat belt making the noise!!) Also, as it's in both sides I assume you checked to be sure it's not the seat s? Look at the seat sliding function (You can loosen the seat to floor bolts than push in or pull the seat bottom frame and re-tighten ..)
Hope this helps !!!
have two problems
there is a vacuum leak?/hissing sound only when engine is running from behind the vent/heat/fan controls-anyone got a fix?
second problem.....there is a very slight "grinding" from behind the dash. almost sounds like a cable (for tach/spedo etc) is sticky. the sound comes and goes, mostly goes when driving but when at low RPM sitting in drive way it is easy to hear....anyone else with this problem?
those are the only ones problems I have noticed so far, love the truck hope it was a good buy!