There has been an issue with the timing chain tenioner on that engine coming apart. Check at the timing chain cover with a hose or wood rod to sound out the noise, if you can duplicate it without driving it.
Both you & the previous post should check your Catylitic Converters. I had this very odd rattle, that started off subtle, but got a little more obnoxious as the months went by. My truck still ran fine all throughout. Usually was more noticeable when running through the gears. Highway speed, idle & foot off the gas all made it go away for that time being too.
To check, just roll under your cab, passenger side & locate the big oblong bulb-ish looking piece that is connected to your exhaust, usually just under where your passenger seat is located (but under the truck of course).
Just kind of tap it with the palm of your hand (maybe a little harder than tapping, more like a solid trust) and see if that sounds familiar. More than likely the element inside has expired & would be rolling around loose in the metal housing. If you bang it & it's just solid, no rattling at all then it's probably something else.
The crappy part is... if you live in California then you can only get an OBD2 compliant replacement which is about $456. No aftermarket alternative on that one. Though you will find them online for $56, $188 or $240 you must read the fine print because they're not OBD2 compliant & not valid in CA. OBD2's are ONLY available at the dealership.
"I am planning on lifting my truck in 2 months and this is a big deal."
I have an S-10 Ls ext. cab vortec 4.3 4x4 and want to use it for offroading so i was considering lifting my truck as well. Also i want to get some protective skid plates on the bottem to protect the under chase from rocks and etc. Does anyone have experience with offroading with there S-10? if so did it preform well or was it a waste of time?
Kink #559 & Check #490....Looks like there's a few "suckers for a cute S10" out there. I've used my 4WD Hi a few times every week now and had no problems! Every time I went to the Chevy dealer they'd reset the TCCM by unplugging then plugging in the module under the passenger kick panel. Finally, I made them tell me how to reset it and threatened them if they didn't fix it they'd buy the truck back. They reluctantly replaced the encoder motor saying 'it couldn't be the problem, they never go partially bad'. GM called me back a few weeks later to say they didn't forget me, and gave me a 1 year smart care plan for oil changes at this dealer. I feel sooooo much better now. Does anybody need a free oil change? I can't wait to go back and tell them the gas gauge is still messed up. Give this message to your dealer when they say it couldn't be the actual actuator causing the problem.
Now that I have spent way too much time and money replacing a fuel pump in the gas tank all weekend the problem is still there....but I have more information...hopefully somebody can help. There is a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and the fuel pressure is at 58 pounds which is perfect. So, I have narrowed it down to these symptoms. First the truck fires up just fine....then I can rev it up over and over again as if everything is fine...in 3 minutes when the truck is warming up and the idle drops to a normal warm running idle the problems arise...it still idles fine but when I rev it to 1800-2500 rpm the engine starts jumping and dropping off...hesitating and so forth...like starving for fuel or something. Engine shakes really bad when this happens. Could this be the pressure regulator or injectors..? I dont think it is electrical because it only happens when it warms up...I have also read something about having a bad ground but I don't think that is the case here....please somebody help...I am missing work now...which makes it worse. Any ideas.?
My axle seal is leaking. I have the crew cab 2.2 5 speed. Anybody else have this problem? Do I have to pull the Diff. cover to remove the axle? Thanks, Pete
Ok i was told that chevy had 20,000 s10 that have a messed up wiring system. Well mine is one of them. The truck will not idle at anything less that 2800 rpms once the car is warmed up. The code for the throttle positioning censor comes up though it has been replaced a couple times. I have gone though the system and found no shorts but it doesn't mean that there isn't any because if i let the truck sit for a while the battery will be dead. pretty much every sensor has been replaced. If anyone has any ideas please help. Joe
I have a '88 chevy S-10 2.8. The fuel pump quit on me. I replaced the tank mounted pump but no luck. I got another pump and it ran great when jumped. After installation, it ran fine and the engine ran for about a minute. Now it's dead again. The manual said a bad oil pressure switch would make it inoperable. Replaced that and no luck. Anyone have a solution?
Subject: Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models: 1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31) Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice : Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
Important : "GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and 90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
Canufixit, I'm new to the site and have a question re. 95 S10 2.2 2x2 I bought recently as a project. Plan to replace engine w/ mouse motor out of 2001 camero which received a 383 stroker but for now just playing with the 2.2. Pulled and replaced cyl head, cleaned injectors, new tps, new iac, new plugs,wires, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Now engine idles fast and has no power. Strong fuel smell at tail pipe. I'm thinking stuck exhaust valve on new head. Any ideas? Thanks. Bill Mc
I have "heard" of the intake manifold to head gasket leaking in the front or rear ends of the manifold. This will allow coolant into front or rear cylinders ... If it is just leaking a little - you get a rough engine - if it's leaking a lot - it can fill up the pistons affected and cause a hydrostatic lock - and the engine will not turn .... Try a compression test on the cylinders ..... and look at the plugs when you pull them to see if they look wet (and smell them for the antifreeze ...).
In My case (on my truck) - the sweet spot is at 40 MPH. Just under /around/ just over 40 MPH on a light load on the drive train - the rear end whines. Take your foot off the gas - and it goes away. give it a little more gas and it gets louder - give it a lot of gas and it almost goes away. This is listed as "Normal" at 40 MPH in the shop manual for my Sonoma. It's not bad - so I just ignore it - but the root cause is incorrect pinion gear loading (shims) when the rear end finally broke in and the mechanicals finally seated ...
I recently purchased an 02 S-10 from a local Dealer (not chevy) and have discovered the carpet on the driver's side is soaked during rains. I can't find any source for the leak. Suspect cowling under wipers but don't know. Any thoughts suggestions? I can't find any information on the drainage sytem for the cowling fresh air intakes.
HI, See an Earlier Post I made on this - not sure if this is your problem though - Mine was the seam between the roof and the corner post not being sealed in the inside ...
If memory serves me - a vacuum gauge will quickly show a stuck valve. Instead of a steady state at Idle the needle will "dip" drastically on every revolution of the engine ...
I'd do a Cylinder pressure test (wet and dry) on each cylinder as well. With the pressure test and vacuum checks you'll have a better idea of the mechanicals and also a record for future reference ...
A stong fuel smell at the exhaust may be Ok when the engine is still cold as more gas is poured into the engine until it get up to Temp. But as you said a "Strong" smell may not be right ...
Can you jumper the fuel pump ?? - if you can get the pump running and the engines runs OK for a good while - at least you'd know that the pump is OK and its' the supply voltage/circuit to the pump that's the problem. This may help you in removing some of the variables in the equation. If it does not run - re-check the pump - it it runs - troubleshoot the wiring....
I was having the same problem with my 2002 S-10. I had a coolant leak at the thermostat housing and needed to drain the radiator but could not find an easy way to "turn" the plastic petcock. After maneuvering an inspection mirror into position, I could see an allen head fitting in the center of the petcock. I inserted a 3/8" allen wrench into the center of the petcock, and turned it counterclockwise approximately one quarter of a turn. It "popped" out slightly allowing coolant to flow from the radiator.
Hi, I have a 1991 GMC Sonoma, 4x4 with the 4.3L engine. When I bought the truck new, it did not have air-conditioning. The dealer had a after-market air-conditioner installed. I now need to replace the heater core, and do not know if I need the one that is for air-conditioned models or non air, as it was when I bought it. My question is: If a after-market air-conditioner was installed, was the original heater core replaced with one for air-conditioning? Thankyou in advance.
Got as real strange problem. Driving down the road and the tack reads 2.5 to 3.0 then all the sudden the truck stars bucking and stalling and the tach is jumping all over the place. then it suddenly drops to zero and the truck runs fine. occasionally it will jump back up to about 1.5 sputter then back to zero.I replaced the camshaft positioning censor and it ran fine for about 3 days. Now its back to its old tricks again and getting worse. Talked to alot of people and they have no clue PLEASE HELP!!! ITS A 99 V6 4X4 engine class W with OFF ROAD PACKAGE. And if this helps i do regularly scheduled maintenance, i replaced all the fuel injectors about a year ago and im on my 3rd transmition
I'm seeing a lot of scarring on the rear plastic (?) fender flares on my 2003 ZR2. It is obvious that the ZR2 tires extend out beyond the fenders, and they do throw a lot a road debris from the front tires to the rear fender flares. Is this just a poor engineering job by Chevy ? Is it possible that Chevy will replace the rear flares since it is still under warranty ? I added mud flaps early on to help cut down on the damage. The mud flaps help a little, but they don't eliminate the problem. Has anyone else seen this ? Also, any suggestions on what tires to buy once the originals are worn out ?
I am having the same problem w/95 s10.No water thru windshield,but lots of water thru doors when it rains or even when I run the wipers. Air bag light just started coming on intermittently. I am afraid the airbag may deploy just for the heck of it, or NOT deploy if I'm in a wreck. My mechanic said that the little seal that runs around the door had a hole in it,and to fill the hole in w/ silicone, and that should stop the leak. I'm pretty sure the sensor fix is expensive.
Thanks for the additional info on the drain. I knew there was a recess in there but wasn't for sure if it was hex or square. And the service manual wasn't helpful at all, just the standard "remove the petcock" statement. Will be picking up new hoses as well. Is there a gasket that goes between the housing and the intake or does the gasket around the thermostat do the sealing?
Will have to check to see if I have a 3/8" allen, if not, a good excuse to get some more tools.
Glad to help. There is not a gasket between the housing and the intake. The gasket or "seal" that goes around the thermostat is all there is. Just take note of the position of the old seal before you remove it, because one side is slightly different than the other.
I have a 97 GMC Sonoma with the 4.3 X throttle body injection. About 1 - 1.5 years ago it started misfiring.Ihave replaced the plugs wires, cap and rotor about 5 times. We also replaced the ignition ciol, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, and cam position sensor. On top of that, we have run injector cleaner, repositioned the distributer, timed the motor, and have run throttle body cleaner. You can smell carbon sometimes, but I've been told it most likely not the injectors. we are still recieving random misfire codes on all cilinders. In October of last year, the service engine code came on for "hard misfire" and "cam position sensor circut malfunction". But here is where it gets fun. Before we fixed the engine, it stopped missing. It ran rich, but never missed a beat. Anyone have any idea at all? My mechanic is stumped, and the truck has been the talk of the shop. Please help!! It only misses at steady driving speeds above 35 MPH.
I have just spent a year on rebuilding this 2.5 in my S10. We have everything hooked up, and ready to start it. The problem is, it won't start. I'm getting spark and fuel, but the truck isn't even trying to fire up. Please Help.
I have a '94 S10. Whenever I start my truck it starts okay. Once i rev the engine it begins to sputter and backfires some and then finally dies. It also has a smell of gas after reving. Im not sure what the problem is. I've already changed the fuel filter but that didn't help. Please help. Thank you
ok i'm pretty sure my ignition switch is shot i've always been able to pull my keys out whenever i wanted whether the car is started or not and just lately its been getting stuck in the on position then finally it got stuck in there for good but thats not my problem i just want to know how i take apart the steering column and get the old ignition switch out and new one in please on my 89 4.3liter s10
i would say fuel injector very badly clogged i'd get some fuel injector cleaner and fill up with a new tank of gas and if that doesn't work have a diagnostic run on it but it sounds like fuel injectors.
I have taken my 2000 xtreme to two different dealers, a transmission place, two different muffler shops and another mechanic and no one has been able to find the noise. Whenever I take off I hear a loud squeak from the rear, then while driving down the street (either 5 to 80 mph) I hear a loud squeaking/rattlling noise coming from the rear passenger side. I've taken my toneau cover off, the tailgate, my spare tire, fixed the sway bar mounts and lubed everything and anything but still the problem exists. The weird thing is, when it rains the noise gets a little louder. It is such an annoying noise that I dont even want to drive it anymore. Please help!!!!!!
I had the same problem, first sounding like it was coming from the D/S front. Then a corus of thunks coming from the P/S chimed in one day. All this from a 2003 Extended Cab with only 23,000 miles on it. After weeks of hunting and three trips to the dealer (It is still under warantee!) I finally decided to do it my self. It took another three months. I opened the doors and used a can of Spray Silicone Grease (Safe on the paint!) and sprayed the Hinges on all three doors, worked them back and forth several times, and sprayed again. NICE AND QUITE!
We have the it at top dead center and the rotor is pointing to the number one spark plug wire and there is still nothing. No matter where i postion the distributor, it still won't start.
Our 1999 Sonoma has some mysterious problems. :confuse:
In the winter the floor and area between the door and the seat are very cold and we can feel air moving. It is worst on the Drivers side and when the heat is on! The dealer has been unable to find the problem. They checked the weather striping and have adjusted the door. We feel it might be coming from the front and not the doors but can't be sure.
There is also an annoying squeaking noise coming either from the rear side windows or seatbelt pillars, most loud on the Drivers side. Dealer has been unable to find the problem. They tried lubricating the weather striping around the windows with no luck.
Shocks have already been replaced and the noise is still there. That was something that I have taken care of that I did forget to mention. Anything else that you could think of? please help!!
Actually the top side of the seal ,when installed on the thermostat, has a slight bevel on its inner radius or edge, whereas the bottom side of the seal is straight all the way across from outer edge to inner edge.
I also have a tailgate cable on my '00 Sonoma which broke. I bought a new end latch, but also cannot pull the old latch out of the tailgate because of the tension.
Have you figured out how to remove the old latch? If so, could you please share with me. The initial response to your question #464 has me unsure of how to replace the latch.
As for the Air leaking - take a 1" or 2" wide strip of paper and competely close the door on it. From the inside pull the paper - it should drag quite a bit - or not be able to be pulled out/through at all. Repeat for the entire door area/edges. This takes som time - but it should show where the seal is not touching ... Also, especially check the third door !! I had to elongate my bottom striker attachment holes to get my 3rd door to close all the way at the bottom (door was rattling and had traffic /wind noise behind the driver....).
My first 2001 (that the dealer had to buy back from me - long story, another time ...) had "Clicking" in the rear back area. Turned out to be a suspected spot welds bad and rubbing together. What they did to prove this was remove the rear trim below the side and back windows (ext. cab) - Remove these and get somone in the vehicle with you behind the seats and have him listen and locate the rattle (be sure it's not just the jump seat / jump seat seat belt making the noise!!) Also, as it's in both sides I assume you checked to be sure it's not the seat s? Look at the seat sliding function (You can loosen the seat to floor bolts than push in or pull the seat bottom frame and re-tighten ..)
Have some play and a progressively worsening squeak on take-off with my 2wd S-10 auto. trans. 4.3L driveshaft. Have heard there is suppose to be some sort of repair sleave kit that can be used to help with repair of this problem. U-joints are okay. Is anyone familiar with this repair ?
My son was just getting on the highway on his way home and told me the truck just lost power and died & made a scraping noise. Would not start afterward. Was towed to my sister's house (100 miles from me) and I learned it started but no power and was told it almost sounded like it had no oil. Everything was checked, had oil, alternator OK, I am to understand it has a crank pulley sensor but, the noise sounded internal so I was told. Engine has @116,000+. I suspect possible timing gear problem, has anyone experienced this type of problem?
just picked up a used 2002 crew cab with the 4.3v6. 57000kms
have two problems
there is a vacuum leak?/hissing sound only when engine is running from behind the vent/heat/fan controls-anyone got a fix? second problem.....there is a very slight "grinding" from behind the dash. almost sounds like a cable (for tach/spedo etc) is sticky. the sound comes and goes, mostly goes when driving but when at low RPM sitting in drive way it is easy to hear....anyone else with this problem?
those are the only ones problems I have noticed so far, love the truck hope it was a good buy!
This was my dads truck and sat for 3 to 4 years 1/4 tank of gas. I filled up the truck with super 92 oct. and a can of heet for fuel. it sputtered for a day than ran pretty good for a day. Now it dont want to run at all. Did tune up and fuel filter no help. plugged it in and the only trouble code was the 02 sensor "lean". Replaced the 02 sensor did not help. I can get it to start if i pour gas down it now but 2 or 3 seconds later it sputters and wants to die the exhaust smells rich. the vacum lines look good. please help!!!!
Comments
To check, just roll under your cab, passenger side & locate the big oblong bulb-ish looking piece that is connected to your exhaust, usually just under where your passenger seat is located (but under the truck of course).
Just kind of tap it with the palm of your hand (maybe a little harder than tapping, more like a solid trust) and see if that sounds familiar. More than likely the element inside has expired & would be rolling around loose in the metal housing. If you bang it & it's just solid, no rattling at all then it's probably something else.
The crappy part is... if you live in California then you can only get an OBD2 compliant replacement which is about $456. No aftermarket alternative on that one. Though you will find them online for $56, $188 or $240 you must read the fine print because they're not OBD2 compliant & not valid in CA. OBD2's are ONLY available at the dealership.
I have an S-10 Ls ext. cab vortec 4.3 4x4 and want to use it for offroading so i was considering lifting my truck as well. Also i want to get some protective skid plates on the bottem to protect the under chase from rocks and etc. Does anyone have experience with offroading with there S-10? if so did it preform well or was it a waste of time?
Thanks, Pete
Joe
Maybe this can help ???
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-003B
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light
(Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet
Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models:
1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models
1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice : Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
Important : "GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and 90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
I have "heard" of the intake manifold to head gasket leaking in the front or rear ends of the manifold. This will allow coolant into front or rear cylinders ... If it is just leaking a little - you get a rough engine - if it's leaking a lot - it can fill up the pistons affected and cause a hydrostatic lock - and the engine will not turn .... Try a compression test on the cylinders ..... and look at the plugs when you pull them to see if they look wet (and smell them for the antifreeze ...).
All I can think of right now ....
Good Luck!
See an Earlier Post I made on this - not sure if this is your problem though - Mine was the seam between the roof and the corner post not being sealed in the inside ...
Good Luck!
If memory serves me - a vacuum gauge will quickly show a stuck valve. Instead of a steady state at Idle the needle will "dip" drastically on every revolution of the engine ...
I'd do a Cylinder pressure test (wet and dry) on each cylinder as well. With the pressure test and vacuum checks you'll have a better idea of the mechanicals and also a record for future reference ...
A stong fuel smell at the exhaust may be Ok when the engine is still cold as more gas is poured into the engine until it get up to Temp. But as you said a "Strong" smell may not be right ...
Good Luck!
I had an uner chassis rear rattle on intial engine start up - turned out to be a loose baffle plate inside the muffler.
I'd get under the truck and really shake the exhaust - check both the muffler and the Converter (expecially the heat shield!!!)
Good Luck!
Will have to check to see if I have a 3/8" allen, if not, a good excuse to get some more tools.
Thank you
In the winter the floor and area between the door and the seat are very cold and we can feel air moving. It is worst on the Drivers side and when the heat is on! The dealer has been unable to find the problem. They checked the weather striping and have adjusted the door. We feel it might be coming from the front and not the doors but can't be sure.
There is also an annoying squeaking noise coming either from the rear side windows or seatbelt pillars, most loud on the Drivers side. Dealer has been unable to find the problem. They tried lubricating the weather striping around the windows with no luck.
Have you figured out how to remove the old latch? If so, could you please share with me. The initial response to your question #464 has me unsure of how to replace the latch.
Thank you very much.
As for the Air leaking - take a 1" or 2" wide strip of paper and competely close the door on it. From the inside pull the paper - it should drag quite a bit - or not be able to be pulled out/through at all. Repeat for the entire door area/edges. This takes som time - but it should show where the seal is not touching ... Also, especially check the third door !! I had to elongate my bottom striker attachment holes to get my 3rd door to close all the way at the bottom (door was rattling and had traffic /wind noise behind the driver....).
My first 2001 (that the dealer had to buy back from me - long story, another time ...) had "Clicking" in the rear back area. Turned out to be a suspected spot welds bad and rubbing together. What they did to prove this was remove the rear trim below the side and back windows (ext. cab) - Remove these and get somone in the vehicle with you behind the seats and have him listen and locate the rattle (be sure it's not just the jump seat / jump seat seat belt making the noise!!) Also, as it's in both sides I assume you checked to be sure it's not the seat s? Look at the seat sliding function (You can loosen the seat to floor bolts than push in or pull the seat bottom frame and re-tighten ..)
Hope this helps !!!
have two problems
there is a vacuum leak?/hissing sound only when engine is running from behind the vent/heat/fan controls-anyone got a fix?
second problem.....there is a very slight "grinding" from behind the dash. almost sounds like a cable (for tach/spedo etc) is sticky. the sound comes and goes, mostly goes when driving but when at low RPM sitting in drive way it is easy to hear....anyone else with this problem?
those are the only ones problems I have noticed so far, love the truck hope it was a good buy!