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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • wally7wally7 Member Posts: 3
    Jumpstarting through the battery doesn't always do it if the battery is bad. Once had a vehicle with a bad battery where i had to hit the starter terminal with the jumper cable to start it. Canufixit has good advice, but so does gonogo and im betting u need a new battery!
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Wally7
    Wrote "Jumpstarting through the battery doesn't always do it if the battery is bad. Once had a vehicle with a bad battery where i had to hit the starter terminal with the jumper cable to start it. Canufixit has good advice, but so does gonogo and im betting u need a new battery! "

    Sorry - re-read my post - Following what I said would catch all what you said (Check the connections = bypass the cables with the jumper cables direct to starter, etc , etc.). Unless they have all the wiz bang Test Gear (amp draw tester, full test gear, etc. - which I assumed they did not ) - my advise stands ...

    Can "U" fixit ??
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Have 99 S10, reg. cab, 4.3 Auto ZQ8.

    Been having intermittent problems with the driver's side window not operating. Window operates fine for months, then won't go down for weeks on end (going on a month this time). There doesn't seem to be a problem with the switch as I can operate all the the accessories from the block (pass. window, mirrors, locks). Had the problem even during warranty, but as usual problem would cure itself as soon as it entered the dealership or into the work bay.

    Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so where should I start, switch or motor? Would like to know b4 I start taking the switch and panel apart and going down the wrong path. Seems that block as well as the switch itself is getting power (did a quick/dirty voltage draw test by depressing the switch and looking at the dome light - light dimmed for split second), plus the other buttons work so I think I'm ok to that point.

    Thanks,

    jae5
  • sean731sean731 Member Posts: 1
    I obviously have a busted heater core, I found some anti-freeze on the passneger floor mat and my windsheild wouldn't defrost.
    I called a guy (I'm new to my area) that seems reliable, but he is saying that to replace the heater core (part is about 40$) will be 480$ in labor. He says that he has to take out the dash (understandable) but also has to discharge and recharge the A/C system and has to drain and replace all the coolant.
    Just curious if this is THAT major of a job? 500$ in labor? For THAT much, shouldn't I just bring it to a dealership?
  • ajowelajowel Member Posts: 2
    thank you very much

    gonogo[#1501] "battery look old replace" => [i replaced the battery]
    wally 7[#1503] "Jumpstarting through the battery doesn't always do it if the battery is bad" [ this is good to know and found that out myself, but did not realize that ]
    bigall[#1504] "You make it sound like you have a manual transmission and tried to start it by popping the clutch" [yes that is correct]
    Canufixit[#1502] "a bad connection and 15 min. cleaning time" => [I checked all the connections and cleaned the [very] rusty connections and after 15 + minutes the car was back on the road]
    "I've seen multiple cars have lots aof parts changed - onlyt to find out a bad connection...."
    [ I am glad i asked and followed your advice before making these obvious mistakes myself and I could relay this information to a friend to solve his electrical problems with the brakelights of his S10].
    thanks a lot
    ajowel
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Here's the procedure. You decide if it's that major of a job:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- 8/be/55/0900823d8018be55.jsp
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Now that I am retired and do mechanic work strictly for fun and to help friends and neighbors, I can tell without looking at the diagram that there are very,very few vehicles on the road today that I would even consider changing out the heater core. They would have to belong to me to even get a second thought about diy...... :cry:

    Sean731,let your shop have the problem of sorting out all the wiring and vacumn hoses under the dash......
  • skidzchevyskidzchevy Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a '91 S-10 V6 5 speed - the truck won't run sitting on all 4 tires - but if I jack up the truck 6 inches or so it starts and runs fine. Doesn't matter which side! I filled the gas tank up completely - has a new float - still won't run when sitting on the ground. Ideas anyone?
  • robtwallrobtwall Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 S-15 with a 4.3L Z series engine. It has TBI. I would like to install a 1992 S-10 4.3L W series engine. It has CPI. Will the two swap physically and what will I need to do electrically?
    Any helpful information is appreciated!
    Thanks,
    robtwall
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Wow - that Sounds Weird ... My quick inputs - a weird as these seem ....

    - If it's failing hard when level - it is the BEST time to trouble shoot the cause (Fuel delivery - at the injectors, Spark at the plugs, etc .... ) Failing to do so now and you may run the risk if having it go "intermittent" - which would be a real bear to fix ....

    With that Said - and assuming you check the obvious things ...

    - Water in the Tank (lift it and the water moves from the intake in the tank).

    - Foreign stuff in the Tank - A friend of mine found a plastic bag in his tank - some one obviously stuffed in.

    - Upon lift up - the suspension shifts and "kinks" the fuel line ??

    - Try it on a hill and face the truck in various positions - if it's OK there - it may prove it's not the "Angle" but a suspension shift ...

    - Wires getting moved / pinched when lifter (to Fuel Tank/pump, other at the engine sensors, etc ...

    - Doe it do it when you try the steering wheel in a different position when lifted ??? (Thinking of the key chip ion this one ...)..

    - Drop the tank - then lift angle the truck - or the Tank - see which one makes the diff...

    Pease let us Know what you find !!!!

    Best Luck
    Canufixit
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Whoops - that's a 91 ?? - then some of comments may be mis worded as I'm not sure when/what year the EFI , Security chip in the key were released ... But I think you cann get the intent of suggestions ...

    Good Luck !!
  • priller13priller13 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1996 GMC S15 Sonoma that is a basic truck, 4 cyl, 5 spd manual trans, and only has about 76K miles on it. Only option on the truck is A/C. Recently I noticed that the brake lights do not stay on when the brake pedal is depressed more than about 1/2 inch. They do come on when slight pressure is applied to the pedal, but once you put enough pressure on the pedal to stop, both rear brake lights go out. I had not done any work on the electrical or brake system prior to this problem. The turn signals were also not flashing properly so I replaced the flasher, thinking that those systems may be linked somehow. That didn't help, so I replaced the brake light switch on the pedal, again with no change in symptoms. Is there an adjustment on the brake light switch on the pedal or is there some other relay in the system that needs to be checked and replaced? Any thoughts on what the problem is would be greatly appreciated. I am not driving the truck for fear of being rear ended when brake lights are not on long enough for driver behind me to realize that I am indeed stopping! Thanks for reading.........
  • kcd1kcd1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy s10 that cranks but wont start.It does this after rain or snow. It gets spark and fuel.A mechanic friend of mine toldme the crank sensor so changed it and it did nothing. After doing some research I thought it might be the ignition module. It tested bad so I replaced it and the truck started problem solved, well so I thought. As soon as it rained no start. Its been sitting in my garage dry for days now and still wont start. Any advice?
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    2000? The Plug Wires are going on 6 yrs old - did you change them?? Double check they are on the correct location?? I'd lean towards an electrical problem (Bad wire, connection, etc.) as when the humidity goes up - the bad connection/wire resiance goes up as well ..

    Did it run Ok when you run it through a recent Car wash??

    Run your fingers down most wires - especially any that have a lower loop/droop to them. See if you feel any bumps (Corrosion inside the insulation from water that gravity sent down the inside of the wire due to an open in the wire higher up ....) Don't forget the Tank/FuelPump AND all the fuse connections ....

    I'll try to think up some more ...
  • damomastsdamomasts Member Posts: 4
    Hi, 1993 S10 2.8 Ext Cab. Recently purchased. The driver and passenger seats fold forward without having to operate the levers. They sit upright when someone is sitting in them but do not lock securely into position. Is this a design flaw or has something been disengaged?
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Damo
  • tonyamtonyam Member Posts: 1
    I owned a 98 4.3 liter 4wd manual trans. from the day I bought it the trans didnt want to shift it was a certified unit from the dealer with 32k miles on it. well the dealer after 10 visits couldnt find the problem until the warranty expired then they found the problem and would ifx it for $900 the clutch was hanging and not disnegaging all the way. I told them for 16k miles. the paint started lifting in small patches I took it to the dealer and was accused of taking it in the dirt and then patching the gravel chips with touchup paint. i filed a claim with the better business bureau the dealer called and wanted to make it right first thing the head service writer says is this truck has never been in the dirt we'll fix it.oh the truck finally caught fire and that was the end of my problems.I had purchased 4 trucks from this dealer in a 6 year period this is how they treat return customers. I will never purchase from that dealer again and the new vette is off i'll go viper instead. no wonder after reading all these problems gm is in trouble.my fmily was a gm family we all bought gm now they all buy toyotas and have none of the probles we had with chevy,olds,pontiac. I just bought a used s-10 2wd for hauling my dirt bike what was I thinking? I think ill list it today and get rid of it before it breaks. gm lost 8 vehicle buyers in my family because we got garbage products and treated like crap when we tried to have them fixed under warranty they try to wear you down until your warranty runs out you just get sick of taking the vehicle back over and over. if you want a real pos try a trailbalzer one of my techs has one it spends more time in the shop than on the road. I honestly cant afford to own american vehicles they are too unreliable.
  • deridderderidder Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1985 V6 chevy s10. Lately ive been having a problem with it. In the morning it will start fairly easily and idle well.But then i go about 3 or 4 miles and the truck starts to bog down. It wont go any faster than 5 or 6 miles per hour. I will park the truck at school for the day and when i leave to go home it will run just fine. At first I thought it was the choke so i bought a choke conversion kit. That seemed to help for a little bit but then the problem returned. I also have changed the spark plugs, wires, and pcv valve. Today i just put in a new fuel filter but i havent seen if it will work.THis problem only seems to happen in the morning. Can someone please tell me what is wrong.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    Take your vehicle to a shop. I have a tool made by Gates called the DriveAlign, and it uses a laser to show me wether or not every thing is aligned properly. It sounds to me like you have a pulley off. I would check your belt tensioner as well.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    Most likely your pins and bushings are worn out. do you have to slam your door for it to latch properly? i saw in Super Chevy that they make pins and bushing kits with grease fittings to prevent this, so look online.
  • mbowermbower Member Posts: 7
    This is very common for S-10 pickups and blazers with the remote oil filters. These are known as oil cooler lines, and are available through GM or after market (Doorman). I would go aftermarket, as they are cheaper and last as long as the GM ones. This is not an easy job however, so mkae sure you know what you're doing.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Here's a long shot - and this recently posted by another member , but may also be valid here ...
    Possible Vacuum lock in the Gas tank ?? In the AM - after a few miles - the vacuum lock sets in - starves the gas ... in the PM - the heat of the day pressureizes the tank w/ expansion from heat and it does not happen (but probably would on a longer drive ...)

    Try loosening the gas cap ...
  • deridderderidder Member Posts: 5
    Would changing the vacuum lines help anything. I was told that that could be my proble and when i looked at them one of the lines had a hole in it and they look really old? Ill try loosening my gas cap tomorrow and see if that helps.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    As this is an older truck - and I'm not sure what it has for "Emissions" with respect to the Fuel tank vapor recovery ... so this could be part of the problem ...

    Regardless - any bad/leaking vacuum lines will affect the overall starting, idle/roughness of the engine. Hoses are cheap - change anything that's suspect - I'd do them all as they are so old anyway .. BE SURE the lines are hooked up correctly. Check under the hood for a diagram- or get a good book and check every hose - Don't trust what's there -as a hose may already be on the wrong connection !!! Check at the fill end of Tank fill pipe for hoses as well .... Be sure you get hose rated fro Vacuum - others may collapse ... and the right diameters - there may be multiple sizes needed ...

    You may want to just check all and only replace the suspect lines one at a time and then re- check the engine problem - so not to cause yet another problem and make it worse by changing all at once...

    Let us know how you make out ...
  • spirexspirex Member Posts: 3
    Ok i live in Ms,Ocean Springs my truck was flooded during Hurricane Katrina. I have done alot of work on it after the storm and still cant get it to start. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel injectors, coil pack, battery, throttle position sensor, and a few others but cant remember what they where. A friend told me to check the oil pressure sensor but have no idea where that is, so if anyone could help me that would be great.
  • deridderderidder Member Posts: 5
    I had one of my buddies change all of the cracked or broken hoses today in his auto mechanics class. He did it for free so it turned out good. The old wires were so corroded that they were completely off from their connection. Now when i drive the truck it seems likes its got more power. I havent driven it in the morning. I guess i will find out tomorow if it will help, but it seems like its working.
  • 15uniform15uniform Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 S10 4.3L CPI Blazer and have a rough idle problem myself. It does not run rough at first start up (when cold)and not until I sit at a stop light for a few seconds. There is also a noticeable sulfur type emission smell. I am going to check and see if I have the same problem as you did but am not sure of the terminology plenum cover. Is this the same as the intake manifold cover? (the cover that incloses the injector and fuel pressure regulator?)I too did the full tune up and checked with a mechanic about the cat. converter He felt since I have no problems at higher RPMS that the cat. probably is not the problem. Thanks for your info!
  • gavinthogavintho Member Posts: 1
    that code is on in my truck and I have as Auto zone suggested replaced my air intake sensor 3 times ... the engine light goes off for an average of a month then comes back on with the same code... something tells me there is more wrong then the sensor going bad...

    any ideas?
  • deridderderidder Member Posts: 5
    I have a small tank on my s-10. I think its only a 10 gallon tank. Every time i put gas in, my gauge always seems to go down to a 1/4 tank. If i put $5 or $10 in it always goes down to a 1/4. It will read higher for a little while, but then after parking it it goes dowm. At first i thought it was a gas leak but after inspecting the ground in my garage it wasnt. Does anyone know what could be wrong.
  • blueskunkblueskunk Member Posts: 1
    alrite i have a 1988 gmc s15, i have recently replaced the entire block which blew a few months ago with a rebuilt 4.3L (the same size as before) after solving a few idling problems by changing the pcv valve plugs, wires, cap and rotor the engine runs fine in park, however when i put it into any gear other than park (automatic transmission) it stalls very quickly, sometimes i am able to get it to run by stomping on the gas as soon as shifting it but it lacks alot of power and sometimes slowly bogs down until it stops any help?
  • smarrsmarr Member Posts: 1
    i just got an 88 s10 with a 2.8 .the guy i got it off of just replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got it to run . we replaced the plugs and wires. in park it idles little over 2000rpm and about 1500 in drive .once in awhile it ilde down and the idle will go up and down and sometimes stall . i dont have the money for someone else to work on it so i will be great full for any help
  • rcm710rcm710 Member Posts: 6
    O.K., I got the door locks to behave the way I want them to; which was an easy fix, as you indicated. Now, do you know how to permanently disable the daytime running high beams? People are actually flashing me (not in a good way) to alert me that I have my headlights on. Is there a fused circuit here which can be disabled? Thanks for any advice -Bob :confuse:
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI Bob,

    Over the years - I've looked through my 2002 shop manual and owners manuals ... The only thing I saw was how to disable them "temporary" After you shut down the vehicle and re-start - they return to factory settings ... Perhaps a computer hook up may do this - but i'm not sure otherwise ..

    Anyone Else Know ???

    Thanks,
    Canufixit
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    My first thought would be Throttle Position Sensor. That is, assuming you have the correct fuel pressure. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Whatever is telling you that it is more than the air intake sensor is correct.....listen to it!!!
    Remember, the people at Auto Zone aren't good mechanics or they wouldn't be working there......
    I think Alcan is on the right track, listen to him.
  • usa1usa1 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2000 S10 4x4 extended cab. The torque converter clutch (TCC) is slipping and engages and disengages when at a steady speed. Fixing the problem is expensive and the transmission is otherwise fine, so I would like to just disable the TCC altogether. I don't care about the fuel economy impact.

    I know from searching the net that this can be done, but instructions are sketchy. I'm looking for some help on the simplist way to get this accomplished. Does anyone know any technical resources with instructions on how to do this?

    Thanks much in advance.

    Mark
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Don't fix it, disable it, either way it will burn up the transmission. It is not designed to operate that way. :(
  • usa1usa1 Member Posts: 11
    I would if the cost of repairs weren't so expensive. I've been told it would cost almost as much as a new transmission and was recommended to replace the transmission.

    Mark
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    High idle speed is usually an indication of a vacuum leak. Yours is prone to leaking at the throttle body base gasket. If all vacuum hoses are intact and in good condition, try spraying WD40 around the base of the throttle body. If the rpm changes, you just found the leak.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Converter clutch hunt on a 4L60-E is usually caused by an engine driveability problem causing low manifold vacuum (affects the MAP sensor), or a worn bore in the transmission valve body for the TCC regulator and isolator valves. For the former, service the engine as required. For the latter, Sonnax makes a reamer/sleeve/valve kit which permanently repairs the valve body. Any half decent independent transmission shop should have the kit available.
  • usa1usa1 Member Posts: 11
    I don't see the connection. My truck is not exhibiting high idle speed or engine drivability problems.

    Mark
  • spirexspirex Member Posts: 3
    Ok i live in Ms,Ocean Springs my truck was flooded during Hurricane Katrina. I have done alot of work on it after the storm and still cant get it to start. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel injectors, coil pack, battery, throttle position sensor, and a few others but cant remember what they where. A friend told me to check the oil pressure sensor but have no idea where that is, so if anyone could help me that would be great.
  • rcm710rcm710 Member Posts: 6
    Dear Canufixit:
    I don't know if this action is controlled by the PCM. Mabey someone else knows. If you read other threads on this website, there are people expressing their contempt for this annoying feature, and others praising it. These threads are found in the Pontiac and Honda forums. I want to be able to defeat these daytime running lamps and the auto headlamp sentinal perminantly, without having the instrument cluster indicating a malfunction; and I don't want any other function impacted. There has to be a fix for this (even a strategic wire clip at the ECM?) I don't know, but someone disabled the DRL on my wife's 99 Tahoe. They stay off, but the red "Daytime Running Lights" instrument cluster indicator stays on. I guess that what the black electrical tape is for..... Best Regards,Bob
  • jbtrailerjbtrailer Member Posts: 1
    Sup,
    I drove 100 miles afer losing overdive in my 93 Silverado. Sometime sliping out of third, sometimes able to catch it wid the throttle others having to coast and grab manual second. Changed fluid. Alot of black pwder in pan and burnt oil. Still doing it. Is the tranny gone. Its a 4L60E. The electronic THM700-R4, and can i swap the cheaper reman 700r4 in my 2wd 93 silverado by adding a tv cable ang the governor. Please help JBTrailer
  • spirexspirex Member Posts: 3
    Ok i live in Ms,Ocean Springs my truck was flooded during Hurricane Katrina. I have done alot of work on it after the storm and still cant get it to start. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel injectors, coil pack, battery, throttle position sensor, and a few others but cant remember what they where. A friend told me to check the oil pressure sensor but have no idea where that is, so if anyone could help me that would be great.
  • broadusbroadus Member Posts: 1
    check the vcm wiring on the pass side wheel well for corrosion on the inside of harness or pins broken off. have seen this once. had spark and fuel but no commun with my scan tool.
  • s10_garys10_gary Member Posts: 2
    I had this thing since new in Jan 2002 . 2002 S10, Auto, L4, extended cab. Factory shocks went bad (leaked oil) at 12 K. Dealer replaced with AC delcos. Junk! , shocks bad again at 30K . but out of 3 yr warrnty.Only driven on city streets and bed never (>90% of time) loaded. Wife takes it to go grocery shopping. 3rd door handle broke twice. Radiator leaked (at side tanks) month past warrnt. Today Ac compress failed. Anyone have Ac compressor failures ?
    Also dealer says water pump leaking out weep hole . 34K miles. ? !
  • s10_garys10_gary Member Posts: 2
    Yes, The dealer had to replace it twice (lucky was still under 3 yr warrenty (2002 ) . Feel your pain. :lemon: I believe you have to remove that plastic interior pannel to get to it. BTW that plastic drives me bats -- vibrates agaist something -- side window /frame.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You don't see the connection between what and what?
  • wcass01wcass01 Member Posts: 1
    Behind the glove box on the 95 model
  • damomastsdamomasts Member Posts: 4
    I need new seats for my 1993 S10 ext Cab. The locking mechanism on both front seats doesn't hold them in place and they simply fold forward without the lever needing to be touched. I can't see how to fix it and the Haynes manual is no use. Can i buy a replacement part or do i need new seats? If new seats are needed, what other vehicles have similar seats to the s10? I'm in the UK so any [non-permissible content removed]/European makes would be useful. Ford Ranger perhaps?
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Damo
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