Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

the_big_al

Depending on what type of Hitch you bought it may not or it may work for you truck. There are several "types" of Class III hitch that are designed for the several different sized frames of trucks out there. You are right - you may have one too big or wide for the frame of a Sonoma. Generally the hitch will bolt on to the ends of the frame rails on the back of the truck. Sometimes as I did you have to drill a couple holes through the frame to get the holes to line up right. Then as an added precaution you can weld the hitch to the frame (only do this if you NEVER plan on removing the hitch.)

the_big_al

Okay - I don't know much but here is what I do know... Anyone who has ever done this may know differently. It is a fairly simple process and it is really up to you what you want to do with the motor swap. I know that you have to modify the radiator and remove the clutch fan from the 305 or 350 and install an electric fan because of clearance reasons. I also know that you have to redo motor mounts on the frame to mount the larger motor. You can do fuel injection or carburated it's your choice. Fuel injection you have to worry about electronics and making sure you get a hold of the computer to control the electronics. Carburated is more simple in that you don't have to worry about all that except for the vacumn hook-ups. If you have the 2.5 you may have to swap the tranny and the rear end but they might hold up... The extra power going through them depending on which model it is... If its a 700R4 for instance you need not worry. It's not difficult, but you do need to know what you are doing and be willing to custom make a few parts to do it....

the_big_al

I don't know if this will help, but I just did some radiator work on my '01 S-10 with a 4.3. You might have a cracked tank inside the radiator. From what my mechanic told me there are plastic tanks inside the radiator next to the core that are prone to breaking because they are plastic. I had noticed on my last road trip that I took that when I was stopped I would be leaking coolant from the front of the truck on the driver's side. I couldn't tell where is was coming from, but I didn't lose a lot of coolant - at least where I could tell, but I was able to smell the coolant burning off from somewhere and so I took it it... My mechanic told me this was common with the plastic tanks and the best way to fix it was to "retank" the radiator. He did that and I seem to have no problems... I have 76K miles on my truck and I beat it up pretty good.

the_big_al

How high are you revving it and does it do it while accelerating? It could be the rev limiter cutting the motor to prevent damage... If it only does it in Park and Reverse (I assume you have an auto tranny because you said park and not neutral), than that is most likely. Also do you have a tach? IF your truck is not equipped with a Tach than the normal driver would not have anyway of knowing when the motor hits redline. It could be that if your truck is not equiped with a Tach then in park or in reverse when the motor is at high reve it has no way of relieving the stress placed on it. In Drive it would shift gears. But in Park or Reverse it can't. There is a Rev limiter in the computer program that will cut out the motor to prevent damage. I have an Impala that does the same thing. I haven't tried it in reverse, but while in Park, I cannot rev it to much more than 4 grand. (at least I think it's around there by listening to the sound of the motor) My S-10 with an auto tranny does not however it has a tach and a 4.3 motor. I would assume then that these factors change how the computer will control vehicular functions. Actually my 4.3 redlines at 5.5 grand and I have had it all the way up to 6(not on purpose) and haven't experienced the motor cut-out. I would be curious to know if there is a rev-limiter on my truck? Anyway that is not the point.

I would almost bet that it is a Rev-limiter and there to safegaurd your motor. As far as the rattling goes - well that's the 2.2 for ya. It rattles like a diesel. That's just the way they all sound.

the_big_al

It could be the clutch... It isn't fully releasing the tranny from the motor therfore the motor is still spinning to fast for the gear's to get into 2nd. Once you slow down enough to where you would need to shift into 2nd to accelerate it will go... I don't think it is the tranny, but I am wrong a lot so take it for what it is worth...

the_big_al

I don't know if this will help, but I owned a 95 Sonoma a couple years back with a 5 speed manual. I blew it out (long story-bad mechanic put wrong shift tower gasket) and from what I remember the transmision is a New Venture Gear 3500. That is for the 4.3 Z code V6. The 2.2 motor used I believe either the Borg Warner T-5 or the New Venture Gear 1500. I think the NV Gear was used in 96 and newer...

the_big_al

Here is what I will tell you about my truck - I am on my second S-10 in 5 years. Before you let that scare you let me let you know why I went with a 2nd S-10 after the first had problems? I bought a '95 with 70k on the clock and I should have shopped around more - it was beat to snot when I got it. It was not taken care of hence I had several problems right off the bat. I replace the entire front end, the clutch and the starter all before 75k. This I believe was not due to the build quality, but the maintanence issues. At 100k I traded in the truck due to a failed fuel pump and a severe ignition problem that would not allow the truck to be turned off with the ignition switch. (This was all related to faulty workmanship by the fellows who put in my clutch. To save space as this is already getting long I will leave it at that. Yes the fellows who put in my clutch managed to screw with the electrical system and one screw-up compounded and it's all downhill from there). Anyway, I bought a 2001 S-10 4.3 Ex-cab with 26k miles and have been fairly trouble free since.

The S-10 pickup is a fairly solid truck. If you are looking at buying one make sure it has the 4.3 motor. the 2.2 is a piece of junk good only for Cavilier it was made for as it is junk too. The 4l60E Auto tranny they put in them is a fairly stout transmission. It is basically the same that is put in the full size trucks and the auto Camaros and Firebirds and even the Corvette is a varient of the 4l60E. So it is touch enough to do duty. I wouldn't be too shy about 40K but check to make sure all the fluids have been changed - inlcuding diff and tranny. Immediately change the coolant unless it was also recently changed. The Dex-Cool is a nightmare. I just had my radiator retanked (80k)(may have been coolant related). The third door is notorious for busting the latch and the seat levers also strip out fairly easily. My latch has broken twice, but my seat levers are fine. Others have also noted that the 4.3 will leak oil from the oil cooler lines around 70K but I have yet to see that on mine. I also know that the 4x4 is notorious for having bad ball joints. Since mine is 2wd I don't have that problem. The 4x4 also has a problem with the oil filter connection under the front bumper - every one that I ever serviced on the oil change line leaked.

Other than those minor things, you really can't go wrong with an S-10. But I would really recomend that the motor be the 4.3 and also be Ex-cab as it gives more room without getting too big. Standard or Auto tranny is your preference - both trannys used were pretty stout... hopes this helps. A

the_big_al

The only thing you can do (besides changing the tire size again is have the computer reset - has to be done by the dealer or someone with the ability to access the computer program (most mechanics will have this computer, but it will cost you an hour's worth of labor). When you put your new tires on did you replace the factory size and what size was it? Was it the Extreme size which is 235/55 16 or the regular size which is 205/75 15. (I am assuming that you had one of these two tire sizes as the 4X4 uses a much taller tire and no one in their right mind would stich a 245/60 on 4X4.

I had 245/60 16s on my truck when I swapped out the regular 205/75 15s tire and wheel and didnt change the speedo, but I racked up the miles as it said I was going faster than I was. I solved that by going to a 255/55 16 which is the same hieght as factory 205/75 15. the tire fit nicely under the truck and make it look realy sporty as well.

the_big_al

this is probably beating a dead horse as much good advice has been given but I'll throw my two cents in as well... Check and or replace the simple and inexpensive stuff first -- cables first as they are relatively inexpensive and easy to check. I had a problem on my vehicle where I just installed a new alternator (it was indeed bad), but didn't bother the battery. The next day 50 miles in the middle of nowhere my truck will not turn over. (Luckily I had access to some simple hand tools and a Coke) I thought I had a bum alternator. Truck would not jump either. Checked connections and found a loose negative. Tightened that up and still no start. Still thinking bum alternator, but curious as to why no start with a jump. Battery was new within 2 years so I was fairly confident good battery, just too dead to crank over even with a jump. Pulled off positive and found corrosion all over it... had nothing to clean it with, but Coca-Cola (it honestly works!! ). Cleaned the cable and reconnected and whammo !! It cranked right over.

So anyway, check the connections first and make sure they are all clean - replace any cables too corroded. While you are cleaning the cables, have the battery charging or take it to the local auto parts store to have it charged and or tested (most can do this for you and may or may not charge you - most won't). This way you can verify that all the cables are good, and then try again. If no go, make sure the battery is indeed good - if you had it charged at the auto parts store they should have been able to tell if it was a good battery (also making sure the water levels are good too). If battery is bad, replace it. Then if there is a no go, then you might have a starter/soleniod problem. Only then would I pull the starter out to have it tested. I know it sounds like a lot of work to go throug to have it diagnosed, but doing so might end up saving you a lot of money.

From reading your statement, I would tend to lead towards a bad battery, or cable connection somewhere. You make it sound like you have a manual transmission and tried to start it by popping the clutch. It sounds like the battery was so dead that there was not even enough juice to get going - you need to have some power (even the slightest is enough) even with a clutch start with these newer vehicles and the electronic spark and computers. I experienced this with my last manual S-10 when I left dome light on all night and I couldn't even get it to clutch start. It had to be jumped.

the_big_al

This may or may not be the same - but my Grandpa had a 1990 Sierra where the seats would fold forward without levers - in fact there were not any levers to speak of if I remember. I do know that if you pulled hard or suddenly the seats would lock (similar to a seatbelt locking), but normally they wouldn't. It could be the way your seats are designed as well... not a design "flaw", but the way it is actually designed ??

the_big_al

No Lemon for you -- AC Delco shocks are horrid -- never should have been placed on the vehicle. This has been true for all GM trucks from what I have noticed, although I pushed mine to 60K miles, I should have replaced them long before that. 3rd door handle - Same thing has happened to me - it is because the handle uses one tiny plastic knocker to push open both the top and bottom latch on the the 3rd door and usually if the door is adjusted properly, it will not break - but that requires making sure the door is properly adjusted and even then that is not a guarantee. I have also replaced mine once and now that one has broken. The handle is sitting on a shelf still as I have yet to put it in. I guess when the flimsy seat lever wears out I'll break down and replace the 3rd door handle so at least I can get behind the seat . (This is also a common S-10 problem) I have also replaced my A/C compressor. This was on a 4.3 motor so not sure if the same type, but could be possible that failures for this component are common? Also had to have my radiator retanked as well. Problem? The factory used plastic side tanks that are prone to cracking and breaking. My shop re-tanked with a more sturdy unbreakable kind (not made out of plastic). The water pump leaking out of the weep hole I can't help you with as I do not know much about the 2.2 motor. This could just be an isolated problem. The other problems are more common with this vehicle. I have come to call them quirks and while they have not been convenient, over all my experience with the truck has been great.

the_big_al

Hey Hey! Just went to the site you mentioned... It looks like the guy has a resolution to GM's junk plastic handle... I just ordered one and I'll see how it goes. I am on my 3rd handle now and his only cost as much as I have been paying for my plastic ones!! How can I go wrong. Better quality, same price, never breaks, I could have saved 90 bucks!! Well... 60 since I didn't have to pay for the factory one, but still....

the_big_al

Just want to make a quick comment on my truck and see how often this has happened before... the rear the drive shaft on my truck came apart (U-joint I beleive from what my mechanic said). The truck has 88K on it. It's a 2001 EX-Cab with V6....

the_big_al

Just replaced my 3rd door handle ! This time with an aluminum that replaced the plastic that keeps breaking! So far so good... This link http://www.3rddoorhandle.com/ will take you to a site where you can get one. It costs the same as a factory one and it should be the last one you buy. This is for anyone who has had problems with the 3rd door handle breaking.

the_big_al

Okay - I am about to break 100K on my '01 2WD ex-cab. 4.3 motor. So far no major problems. Here is the rundown of what has been replaced in 100K and 5 years. A/C compressor at 30K, radiator tanks at 70K, alternator at 70K and rear U-joint at 90K. I would say in that this is pretty good. It gets oil changed every 3K and all fluids were recently changed (except Tranny, but it's on the list).

I am about to do the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and would like to know if what would be the best way to go... I have heard a lot hype about the Bosch Platinum 4-tip plugs or even Split-fire, but wondering if I would really see anything signifigant. Or if it would just be best to replace them with AC Delco Platinums. Also what wires should I use??

One more question - I have noticed that in the last couple air filter changes I have had to change them every 6K miles. I do a lot of extreme driving so that is not that unusual, but what has been different than before is that they are black when I have changed them and not the usual brown dirty. It's not oily black, but still it's black crud... what would cause this and is it something that needs to be replaced like a PCV valve that is causeing this? Or is it normal?

the_big_al

LOTS of DRIVING - sometimes 5K a month. Usually around 4K. A lot of highway miles, but also several dirt road miles. Sometimes 20-30 miles one way and then I have to trek that back. In one road trip that will be 1500 miles, about 500 of that will end up on dirt. That could cause the air filter clog up I am experiencing. I've had my 2wd places a 4x4 shouldn't have been

Anyway, I'll keep an eye on the ball joints. It could be related but the last S-10 I had I ended up replacing the entire front end at 70K from the tie-rods to the idler arm and pittman arm. I don't think I did the ball joints though.

I have replaced the control arm bushing however and when my mechanic did so, he told me everything else looked fine - but that was 20K ago and several rough dirt roads ago as well so I am cognisent of those going bad...

I think I'll try the Bosch 2 prong plug and see what it does... Can't be any worse than what I've got right?

the_big_al

Been there done that.. Did it on a 95 S-10 several years ago... It's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and when I did it I used a short extension on a swivel attached to a longer extension with the wheel removed. I was real close to undoing the motor mount and jacking the motor up slightly.

the_big_al

Ha - that's a good idea... Maybe I'll take a blowtorch and make an access panel . If the fuel pump ever goes I think that is how I'll go about replacing it... I was underneath looking for a mystery squeak the other day (turned out it was the U-joint that I replaced at 90K) and noticed there are only about 6 bolts that hold it on and disconnecting the electrical. Having a buddy help me lift off the bed sure beats the heck out of trying to drop a half full (or full as my luck always happens to be) tank if gas.

I used to change oil for living at a Wal-mart and would curse everytime a poorly engineered vehicle would make its way through the line (Toyota was famous, also Ford. GM had a few as well, but for the most part fairly simple process - meaning you didn't have to remove half the skid plates "Toyota Tundra", or cram your arm next to a hot exhaust "Toyota V-6 Camry", or turn the front wheel partially "Ford Crown Vic".) You would think that someone could design a vehicle that you could change the oil on with out making a mess all over the engine compartment (Skid plates, front diffs, exhaust manifolds etc etc.) Anyway, this forum ain't about oil changing gripes - it just came out while I was thinking aloud

the_big_al

But see... it's a double edged sword. It's a pain for us DIY's, but for the dealer they can charge even more for labor. They can tack on labor hours and charge more when things like that break because "it takes longer". So no matter what we lose - either pay the price to have a dealer do it (or a mechanic because they also charge by the job hour even though it may not take them the "specified" number of hours, or we can do it ourselves in our driveway and stand on our head to do it all the while cursing the engineer.

the_big_al

awww ... the 5 minute Honda. You are correct. Honda's are probably the easiest. The others that I like were of course the S-10 with the 4.3 2wd, GM cars with the 3.1/3.4, Ford Powerstrokes 7.3 (not the 6.0), GM full size 2wd trucks (even with grease fittings). Several others were not bad and not too time consuming but......

I hated hated Nissan trucks, Volkswagon Beetles, Toyota Tundra, Ford full size, Toyota Camry V6 (especially in the summer), Old Nissan Maximas with the 3.0 motor, Toyota Tacoma (especially 4 cyl 4x4), newer Toyota Celicas, Ford Vans, Chevy Cavaliers.... and there were more, but I'll stop there. (actually I should see if there is an oil change forum huh??? )

the_big_al

It means that you have Theftloc. Somewhere along the way, someone locked it using a 4 or 3 digit code. This Theftloc serves to prevent theft by disabling the radio should it lose power - i.e. in the event it is taken from the dash. Did you just recently replace the battery? Or have the battery go dead? Or disconnect the battery?

If you know the 3 digit (it might be 4 digit - I can't remember) code than you can enter it in. Your owners manual should tell you. I can't remember how to do it since I never locked mine and I removed the factory radio several years ago.

the_big_al

With a 3" lift you might be able to use the stock wheels but jump up to a 31x10.50 15. You might even be able to do 33's but I would recomend a wider rim (at least 8"). If you want a beefier look you need to get different rims with a different offset that will push the tires out a little from the fender wells. If you want to jump up in rim size you can go to a 16 inch rim with a 265/75 r 16 rim or even a 285/75 16. (This is a really meaty tire. I hope you have the V6 and not the 2.2. If you only have the 2.2 I wouldn't recomend anything larger than the 31x10.5. Actually if you have the 2.2 I would recomend you drop it back down a put the stock size back on. That little motor will just be wheezing to pull anything larger than a 205/75r15. - that just my opinion though Even the 4.3 V6, while it is stout motor, might have a fun time turning 33's or a 286/75r16.)

Check out tirerack.com as they will have lot's of variations of which you can try. You would also be able to call and talk directly to someone who would talk to you one on one about what you can do. Or take the truck down to your local Discount Tire or Big O Tires or similar store and they can physically show you what you would be looking at tire-wize.

the_big_al

Oh - I forgot to mention - as far as I know only the dealer can "Unlock" a locked raido with out the code. And it's also a chargable service.....

the_big_al

I would think - and any other tire/suspension nuts out there feel free to correct me if I am wrong, but I think that with a 3" lift you should be okay. The standard size on a regular 4x4 S-10 is 235/75r15 and so a 30x9.5 15 is roughly the same size as that. A 3" lift should lift you a little bit above standard 4x4 hieght - almost to ZR2 hieght if not to the same level I would think. The S10 ZR2 uses 31's as standard size, but it also pushes the wheels out a little for a more aggressive stance. I don't know if the 31 will rub with the tires set closer to the wheel wells, but I would like to think that you should be okay. Also since the 94 and the 95 use the same supension setup your 94 lift should work with minor, if any modification. Here again though I am speaking with out truly knowing, but 94 is when they redesigned the S-10 and 95 didn't change much (actually it didn't even change much from 93. I would almost wager that you could swap suspension parts from a 93 if you really wanted to.)

So here is how I would gauge it - if your truck ends up sitting as tall as a ZR2 - go for the 31's. Most tire shops, if you are going to buy from them anyway wouldn't mind mounting a couple 31's and checking to see if they cleared fenders. If they don't clear, drop down to a 30x9.5 r 15. If they do clear you should be all set to go with the 31x10.5 r 15's. Just remember to adjust your speedo (either a gear change in the speedo cable, or a computer reset. Judging by the year, I'd say gear change in the cable), or else your speedo will read ALOT slower than you are actually going - your speedo will read 55MPH but you're going much faster. And cops don't by the "my speedo is off" argument very much anymore.

If you want to see pictures of a lifted S-10 check out Ebay and search the vehicle listings. I just looked and saw a couple ZR2 models listed. I think this is the closest you are going to get to what your truck may look like. I would caution though, I have seen a few lifted 2wd trucks and for some reason or another the front always seems to be higher than the rear. Every single 2wd lifted s-10 I have seen has this problem....

the_big_al

The air bag light means that there is something wrong with the air bag- either a connection or a sensor or something of that sort. I would take it to a dealer or a mechanic with experience in air bags. I would be really iffy about messing with that as I would be afraid of accidently deploying the air bag.

To replace the hood latch cable I would assume, as I have never done it, but that you disconnect it from inside the cab, thread it through the fire wall and disconnect it at the hood. I know several people who have taken the hood latch cable and redone it so that you reach under the bumper to pop it. On my last vehicle I had it just hanging inside under the dash and I used a pair of pliers to pop it. You can rig it in several ways, but if you want to do it "right", I am not too sure about that.... You know what assume means right? - I try not to assume anything because it makes an a** out of you and me... [non-permissible content removed]-u-me

the_big_al

hey - no prob... Just trying to throw info out there and sometimes it looks like it was the right info!

the_big_al

could be the blower fan inside the fire wall??? Had that issue on a blower fan on an older s-10... had some debris stuck in the fan that was catching on the fins every time the fan was on. Also GM A/C compressors on thier trucks are pretty rattly... the one on my truck (2nd one) sounds rattly and the previous one was rattly and the one on my last s-10 was rattly. Also I have noticed on my grandpa's full size it is also pretty rattly...

the_big_al

Two torx srews on the top of the light... they do both side to side and up and down.... (I think... it was a while ago that I adjusted my lights and it is currently midnight and dark so not going to go out and check under my hood.... there might be another set that is accessible on the front of the headlight assemble just past the chrome trim ??? Not sure and can't remember. Will try to remember tomorrow to take a peek and see....

the_big_al

Hmmm ... just think off the top of my head and brainstorming a little... If the code says secondary air injection system malfunction maybe it has something to do with the air cleaner housing of the PCV valve that connects the the back of the black cover that sits on top of the CMFI?? This is assuming you have a 97 or later 4.3. It could also be that PCV valve needs to be replaced and is throwing a code?

I'm just throwing ideas out because I don't know what the codes all pertain to, but just using some logic by going what the code says...

If the air cleaner assembly is the main air intake, than a secondary could possibly be the vented gases that the PCV valve captures and routes back to be mixed with the fresh air coming throught the air cleaner assembly??

the_big_al

That could be it... For S10 Blues I would check it out. I remember reading a placard under my hood that my truck meets California Emission standards. So it is very possible that this the case here... Food for thought... I know you had 98 Ford Mustang but it would have used OBDII - so is OBII standard across the board even across manufactures???

the_big_al

possibly a clog somewhere in the lines? Also could be a bad T-stat. Recomend doing a radiator flush and than see what happens?

Check the motor oil you could have a bad head gasket and the antifreeze is being burned in the combustion chamber. See if there is water in the oil. I have also seen leaks in head gaskets slight enough that there will not be any mater in the oil, but it just goes out the tailpipe. Usually with white smoke, but I have seen it where you don't really see anything. This is not common, but I have seen it. Usually you will see white smoke out the tailpipe or water in the oil to indicate a blown head gasket.

the_big_al

I would hesitate to say that it is the fuel pump going bad. But I do know that GM trucks are famous for having a fuel pump "hum" - if that hum is more of a higher pitched whine. Should be noticable when first turning the key to the run position before starting and then once the vehicle is running it is quite possible to notice during operation. My truck has it and has been like that ever since I have had the vehicle and I have it for almost 100K and it is also a 2001.

Here is what my mechanic told me when I asked him about it because I noticed my "hum" had become noticably louder at times. I asked him what the signs were of a fuel pump going out. He told me that symptoms of a bad pump will generally exhibit themselves long before a pump will fail completely. Most noticeable are are a several cranks of the motor to start when the vehicle normally doesn't take that many. You might also notice surging while traveling at highway speeds as the failing pump struggles to keep the engine supplied with fuel A loss in power while trying to accelerate might be noticed, again as the engine demands more fuel and the failing pump cannot adjust to the instanty increased demand.

He also told me to pay attention to the whine and see if it is louder on an empty tank as compared to a full tank. When a tank is close to empty the pump starts to try and suck all the debris and junk that accumulate over time in the tank. There is a filter in the tank that can tend to get clogged and on an empty tank the pump has to work harder to pull gas through this clogged filter. The pump having to work harder creates more noise. Unfortunatly there is no way to change this "in-tank" filter except to drop the tank at the time of pump replacement.

In your particular case, I would assume that your pump is fine. However I would watch the gas levels be careful about running the tank to completely empty before filling up. I would recomend filling up between 1/2 and 1/4 or as soon as the low fuel light comes on. Also watch the quality of gas you put in. Low quality fuel can have as much harm on the pump and the tank by leaving unwanted deposits as it can being burned in the motor.

If the pump does go out, which I have seen on vehicles with less that the 49K you state, replacement is a fairly simple process. If you are a DIY and have basic hand tools, access to a jack and a friend, you should be able to do it in a couple of hours.

You can drop the tank, or you can remove the bed partially and go through the top, saving having to deal with a heavy tank of fuel. I would recomend the bed option. Remove the front two bolts completely and also the middle (I think there are bolts in the middle I just can't remember), then loosen but do not remove the back bolts. Detach the filler neck from the bed. Then lift the bed ever so carefully so you don't flex and tweak it. Prop the bed up with a couple of 2x4's to hold it up so you can access the pump from the top of the tank with out ever having to drop it, dissconnecting fuel lines, mess with an unstable jack etc, all while laying under the truck on your back and hoping you don't get gas all over yourself...

the_big_al

Well --- is it auto or manual trans?? If auto look on the back side of the motor near the firewall, on the passenger side. The "cap" although it really isn't a cap, it is a spring loaded - well I guess you could call it a cap, but it is attached to a dip stick that goes down into the transmission. It will probably be black with red lettering says "trans fluid". It could also be red. Depends on the year. (Mine is black with red lettering.)

Since you are asking where the trans fluid fill cap is, I will assume and apologize if I make you feel silly if you already know, I will also explain how to check the transmission. Warm the vehicle up to operation temperature and drive around the block, or down to the store, or somewhere so get the trans fluid flowing through out the tranny. (If you need to check it because it might be out of fluid or it is not shifting right, or if uncertain about the condition of the tranny, then go to the next step with out driving the vehicle.)

Leave the vehicle running. If you have not just driven it around the block, than set the parking brake, hold your foot on the brake and slowly shift through all the forward gears and reverse and then back to park. Leave the motor running. Pull the trans dipstick out of the tube and wipe it off with a rag. Then re-insert it and pull it back out. The fluid should be a red color and clearish. It should not smell burnt, or look cloudy or look like it has particles in it. On the dipstick it is marked with cross-hatches to indicate it's level. One is a cold level and the other a hot level. If you have driven the vehicle around and warmed it up to a good operating temp, than go by the hot level. The fluid should be in the marked cross-hatch area marked hot. If not you will probably need to add some. If the vehicle was checked "cold" the fluid should be in the "cold" crosshatch area. If you need to add some, add it through the tube in which you just checked the fluid. Use a funnel and add a little bit a time - like 1/4 quart at a time. If the level is way below the crosshatch I recomend having it checked for leaks or other damage.

For a manual tranny you will have to crawl under the truck. Make sure the vehicle is NOT running. The check and fill of a manual tranny on this vehicle doesn't require it to be running. It also requires the use of an allen wrench. Not sure what size, but it's big. Like around 7/8's or so big. The plug is located on the passenger side (I think - it's been a long time since I have checked a manual tranny S-10) on the side of the tranny. Pull the plug out and if fluid flows out of the hole, plug it back up, the tranny is good. If it gushes out it may be a little overfull and wouldn't hurt to let a little out. If nothing comes out, take your finger, or a smaller allen key and stick it into the hole. An allen key is more accurate. Stick the top elbow end in and see if it comes out with fluid. If it does, than the tranny is also good. If not, it will need some you add it through the hole you just used to check it. If I remember correctly, the S-10 and Sonoma manual trannys used a GM specific synthetic fluid. Fairly expensive, but not difficult to obtain. If you can obtain some, I also suggest a small hand pump to get it into the tranny as it is not fun trying to get it into that hole directly from bottle. In fact it is nearly impossible. Add some to bring the level to good and you should be good to go.

As always, if in doubt, take it to a certified mechanic you trust. A lot of places will do an simple check which could include a tranny level check for free.

the_big_al

I have an update to your quandry of the 3rd door handle - before you go buy a 30 dollar piece of crappy plastic, might I suggest going to http://www.3rddoorhandle.com. Someone posted this while my 3rd door handle was broken and while I had a new one ready to put in I had not yet done it. Instead of putting the OEM handle back in I went to this site and ordered the one they have. I have yet to have any problems. Plus the method of install is much easier -(now that I think about it, you could probably replace the entire 3rd door handle without taking off the door panel, although removing the door panel does make it more accesable.) For the same price you get an aluminum handle that is guarunteed not to break.

Go to this site... you will never have to replace a 3rd door handle again. If by any chane you decide not to buy the alumuminum one let me know and I have a OEM sitting on my shelf gathering dust that I will gladly give to you... I won't even make you pay for it.

the_big_al

I found a new, almost disconcerting knock in my steering column on my last road trip. If I flick the wheel back and forth quickly it feels as if there is something loose and the sound seems to be coming from directly under the airbag? If I go on a rough road with ruts and bumps, as the tires hit these bumps I can feel them through the steering wheel and the knock becomes prominently pronounced.

But I can't shake or rattle the wheel. It seems fairly solid. It also is not a continuous knock as I spin the wheel around from point to point.

So my question is what might be causing this and also how do I remove the air bag from the wheel to get below to see if I can determine what is causing the knock. The vehicle is a 2001 Ex-cab 2wd S-10 with V6.

As a side note, I drive on ALOT of rough and rutted roads that for most vehicles would be murder on the suspension. So I am sure that these roads could possibly be a factor in this. And when I say rutted, I don't mean just regular washboards. Roads that most low slung front drive vehicles should never be on, and if the road ever gets wet, not even a 2wd truck would make it through (I know this from sad experience that a 2wd S-10 is unable to climb 60 degree mud/sand/clay road after a good rainstorm/snowstorm.... :sick:, especially if all you have to get a good run at it with is 10 yards of straight away of the same kind of road.....) Anyway, so my truck doesn't have it easy with the kind of abuse I put it through, but it has been an excellent vehicle thus far.

the_big_al

Is it possible that it could be a bad caliper? I'm not very experienced in brakes and brake lines... so much so that this is where I had one of my "doh" moments.

I basically did what you are doing in that I decided I was going to replace both calipers. I got the calipers, new pads and fluid and had them installed and wheels on the truck. I was trying to bleed the system but could not get pedal back no matter what I did. I tried everything I could find about bleeding brakes. Finally frustrated and thinking I had bad calipers, I drove with bad brakes to a brake shop where I was informed that I had the calipers on the wrong side and upside down. DOH


Anyway, that swapped them over bled the system and I left feeling a little foolish and a little poorer, but also with an better education. Although that still doesn't help you as I'm not really sure why you are having leaks??

the_big_al

I am assuming you have a 4x4 - since you mentioned Wrangler's and a ball joint... 2wd don't have the ball joint problem the 4x4 S-10's have and Uniroyal's were standard on 2wd as well. 4x4's I think they were the Goodyear Wranglers. So anyway, the Michilen Cross Terrain is a decent tire. However, I don't like it because its expensive, my overall experience with Michelins is that they don't last long enough for what you pay, and other lesser priced tires have proven to perform just as good as Michelins.

Do you have the ZR2 package or just the standard 4x4 suspension? Also how much on road travel do you do and how much off-road travel do you do - i.e. hunting, camping, playing, etc?

I would recomend if you have the ZR2 Suspension and do a lot of off-roading the BFG All-Terrain. Excellant tire. A little pricey but you get a great tire. This tire is worht the money. I think the tire size you would need is a 31x10.5 r 15. If you have the standard 4x4 suspension, I believe yor tire size is P235/75r15. You can also get the BFG All-terrain in that size. You might have to get an LT235/75r15 which will make the truck ride a little rougher since it is a stiffer tire, but it will service well in the back country.

If you don't do a whole lot of off roading, but do some occasional I would recomend the Wal-mart Uniroyal Liberator. You can only get them at Wal-mart. The Uniroyal is inexpensive and a great wearing tire. It does pretty good in most moderate off road situations, it's not too aggressive and so it's got some decent road manners and it's durable. Another pro is if you are worried about the suspension tearing up the tires, they are relatively inexpensive so replacing them isn't a wallet buster.

If you are doing strictly on-road, the Michelin Cross Terrain is not a bad choice. It is pricey, but the only other option I know that would not be a bad choice would be the Good Year Tracker 2. Although in my opinion if you are going to go with the Tracker 2, I would go with the Liberator.

Since you mentioned the Cross Terrain, I am assuming (I hate assuming because when you assume you make an [non-permissible content removed] out of you and me "[non-permissible content removed]-u-me" ) that you don't do a whole lot of off-roading but I wanted to throw those options out there. I used to work at a Wal-mart tire center and had the best luck with the Liberators. Others also came in and bought Michelins, but for what they cost, I didn't see them have any greater benefit over the long haul than the lesser priced Liberators. I also had a few customers who put on several sets of Trackers as ran them as a thier tire of choice. They were highway travlers and they swore by that tire.

That's been my experience. I recomend the Wal-mart Liberator unless you do serious off-roading. I feel it is the best over all value.

the_big_al

Got a dead battery experience.... It was on my 2001 S-10 so hopefully I should be okay posting here.

Battery died yesterday at a Circle K 25 miles from home. I had gotten gas, started the truck and pulled into a parking space to free up the pump and went to in to get a soda. Came back a BAM! Battery is dead. No notice, no previous slow turning starter, no clicking, just dead. Not even enough juice to run the door chime.

So I ask everyone going into the store if they've got jumper cables. I was a fool and didn't have any on hand. Finally a I spotted a tow truck getting gas. I trotted over and he obliged and came over to give me a jump. Still nada. I could get it to click, but couldn't get it to turn over. A quick check of connections revealed tight and good contact between battery and cables. No corrosion. We let the battery charge for a bit. Still nothing. I said thank you to the tow truck and sent him on his way, although I still had a dead battery and I am still 25 miles from home.

I called my wife and explained the situation to her. She agreed to come to my rescue and bring tools so I could remove the battery and take it to Wal-mart so I could get it replaced under warranty. (As a side note, PLEASE educate your signigicant other as to what tools look like and their basic use. I have failed to do that and as a result spent 30 minutes on the phone trying to explain to my wife what a socket looked like, what a ratchet looked like and what an extension looked like. It was so frustrating when she couldn't find what I needed and she couldn't get the idea.)

Anyway, I finally got her on the road with what I hoped were the right tools. While I was waiting for her to arrive a good samaritan had a commglomerate of tools in his trunk and I was able to piece together the right ones to yank out the battery so in case my wife didn't bring the right ones I would be able to purchase the right ones while at Wal-mart.

My wife arrives and we head to the closest Wal-mart about 2 miles away. We get there and there is a big sign that says all batteries must be tested before warranty replacement. I'm cool with that confident my battery is beyond saving. They test it. They have a hard time getting the handheld machine they are using to even work. They finally get it to work. But the battery tests good! I'm flabbergasted. I start to walk out. My sensible wife tells me I should have them at least charge it and then re-test it. (I LOVE my wife.) I calm down a little. Check the water and realize it's low. We refill the water and have them charge it a little and it still tests good. I take it back to my truck, although still not confident with the battery. It is only 2 1/2 years old, but the sides are bulging a little and it does have signs of having leaked out of the vent caps. Not having any faith I plop the battery back in. Before doing that I clean all the terminals again with a wire brush and double check to make sure I don't have any corrosion. I reconnect the battery and.... what do ya know. Still dead as a door nail. I decided to try and jump it one more time. I pull jumper cables out of my wife's trunk (at least she has them ), and still no such luck.

At this point I am at my last straw. I still blame the battery, but knowing I could also possibly have a bad connection other than at the battery I don't totally discount the battery. But not wanting to tear my truck apart on Circle K's parking lot 25 miles from home, I call my insurance company and have the poor truck towed home. It didn't cost me anything and then I would be able to evaluate the situation in my driveway instead of a parking lot with a thousand spectators looking on at a desperate dad.

The next day after work and now that I am a little clearer headed and not so mad at the whole situation, I decide to see if I can solve my puzzle. Is it the battery, or is the connections between the battery and the vehicle? I decided the best way to do this was to pull the good battery out of my wife's Impala and if the truck fires up, than more than likely it is the battery. If not, than it's likely the cables. So I pull the battery from the Impala after making sure it would indeed work and the Impala's battery installed, the truck fired right up. Now just for kicks and giggles I decided to put my battery into the Impala to see how it reacted. The Impala wouldn't start. Not even with a jump. So my already confirmed bad battery conclusions are cemented. No guff from Wal-mart this time. They are going to replace the battery. It was less then 3 years old with a 3 year free replacement warranty. I even had the receipt to prove it was less than 3 years old, plus the date code on the top of the battery.

I still might have a slight connection problem with interally corroded cables, but when the battery wouldn't start either vehicle even with a jump and the battery from the Impala started both vehicles without a problem, than I'm banking on the battery actually being bad. But then why did the Wal-mart tester say it was good? Mystery to me. Oh well.

I take the battery back to Wal-mart, although a different one that is closer to my home and ask that they replace it. They didn't even blink. They looked at the battery, looked at me and asked if I had my reciept. I handed it over. They scanned the receipt, scanned the bad battery, went a got me a new battery made the exchange and sent me on my way. They didn't even test it the old battery. I took the new battery home and 5 minutes later it was installed and the truck starting like it had never even had a problem.

I will continue to watch it and see if it gives me problems and I could have some mildly corroded cables and I am just not able to visibly see the corrosion. So I will probably still replace the cables to be on the safe side, but the battery being bad was still not helping matters.

After all is said and done, I would like to blame Wal-mart as this whole experience could have been cut in half if they had just replaced the battery for me the first time. I could have taken the battery back to the Circle K and been on my way. But they were just trying to do what they felt they should do. So I really can't blame them for something that really wasn't preventable. Anyway, long story. Hope you made it through... If the hosts feels this is too long feel free to remove it Apologize for it being too long. I didn't realize it was so long until I read back through it... (although it did help me vent a little )

the_big_al

Wal-mart does have the ability to load test batteries but my experience has been that the techs don't know how to use it. I think they only know how to use it as a charger, as they only tester they used was the hand held one. It doesn't put a load on and relies on the battery power in the battery to provide the power to run the test.... So it is possible that the tester could read a good battery when it is actually bad.

I am replacing cables as soon as I get enough time to dig down to the starter. I replaced a starter on an S-10 V6 a few years back and it was a pretty fun chore, and if I remember correctly getting to the battery cables was even more fun. But I think replacing the cables would probably be good preventative maintainence. The truck does have 100K on it and who knows who much corrosion may have seeped it's way down the cables from the previous battery?

If I replace them I can replace them with top mount connections instead of GM's side mount which I have never liked. The battery I have has dual capacity - the ability to have both top and side mount.....

the_big_al

yes it is possible for the heat to factor in to a windshield shattering. Especially if it is all ready weakened by a crack or a chip. In PHX AZ where I live, I avoid putting reflective sun shades in my window as it gets so hot in summer that that the reflected heat heats up the windshield and will crack it. Also I have a crack in my windshield right now that grew almost instananeously when one day when I was washing my truck. The truck had been sitting in the sun all day and the minute I hit it with the hose water, the crack went from just a few inches long to splitting and spreading clear across the windshield.

the_big_al

Actually, you have a good tire there. I had forgotten about the Toyo as it is not sold here in AZ(at least not that I know of). But when I lived in OR that was Les Schwab's house tire. It was a pretty good tire from what I remember.

the_big_al

Actually, I beg to differ with you slightly on the Wal-mart battery. the techs, yes, a lot of the time they may or may not know how to properly test a battery. I find this to be true through out the stores I have visited. The particular store I went to they didn't seem to know or care, and I didn't argue. I should have pushed a little harder and I would've probably gotten a new battery, but since I was not totally 100% sure it was the battery than replacing the battery would do me no good if I still had problems elsewhere. I didn't know how much corrosion may have been inside the cables. For all I knew the battery could actually be good, and just may have needed water and a good charge.

When I took the battery to a 2nd Wal-mart after doing my own testing, they didn't even bother to test it. Maybe this was because they were so busy they didn't want to take the time, or they could tell by looking at it that it wouldn't test good I don't know. But I ened up with a new battery.

I actually would HIGHLY recomend Wal-mart batteries. I know we are going to have a difference of opinion in this but I might be able to see where you are coming from. Wal-mart get's its batteries from 2 major suppliers. Johnson Controls and Exide. Johnson Controls if I remember correctly also manufacture the Interstate brand of battery and and several others although off the top of my head I can't remember which ones. They also make the Optima line of batteries. It is one of the largest battery suppliers in the world. They are probably the best automotive battery in my opinion that you can get.

Exide on the other hand I have not been very fond of. Wal-marts in certain parts of the country are supplied by Exide and this battery I would recomend you stay away from. I have never had good experience with Exides. It just depends on what part of the country you live in. I have Johnson Controls battery, but that didn't stop me from getting another Johnson Controls battery.

Side Note Edit:

I just took a look at the Johnson Controls website and here are some of the brands they supply batteries for:

Motorcraft, Optima, Tru-Start, Honda, Mitsubishi, Maza, Eveready, Everstart, Die-hard, Kirkland Signature. I didn't see Interstate however so I may have been mistaken in saying that JCI supplies Interstate batteries.

the_big_al

Fuel Filter??

the_big_al

I beleive it is located right at the front of the motor in front of the fuel injector assembly. If the '03 is the same as the '01 than the water hose goes from the radiator on the right side and wraps around under the air intake assembly and back to the front.

the_big_al

I know the original post was made a long time ago, but my '01 does it and my '95 V6 did it as well. It is the clutch fan and it is normal. The way it was explained to me is it is the clutch fan coming on to keep air flowing while the truck is just sitting and not moving. Mine only does it when I am sitting at a stoplight and while accelerating. Once I get going it the roar goes away. Also like mike3720 it only does it when it is hot outside. Usually when the temps reach about 100 degrees or more. Which means that in Phoenix when the temps reach 110 or more it is on a lot more. Even my A/C struggles to keep things cold at 110 degrees. The only way to get rid of the noise is to do what hoodlatch did and install an electric fan. I have yet to do that and just deal with the noise.

the_big_al

4 or 6 cyl?? 4 cyl I am not sure about, but for the 4.3 hoodlatch is right - it's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]... I did a starter on a '95 4.3Z and it was not fun. But didn't have to remove exhause though. It was a tight fit between the frame and the tranny, but it fit. I had to loosen both both bolts, and then drop the starter for the bolts to come all the way out because the bolts hit the fram before dropping completly off. I took the wheel off and went through the fender for the wires ( I think, it was several years ago that I did the starter.)

the_big_al

Aww haa! I got to this forum after being to the tire forum, so in case you get here before going to the tire forum.... I replied in the tire forum... and since it is almost midnight and I can't even type, much less really think, I'll just let you go over to the tire forum to see my reply . I am going to bed. My puncuation is bad, my grammer is bad and I don't even know what I am saying I am so tired.... You can't really tell that because I re-write what I type before I post, but oh well you get the drift....

the_big_al

I am having an intermittent A/C issue (it seems I am posting a lot more now that my truck has hit 100K ). I have yet to nail it down as to what causes it, but at times it seems that a vacumn or a baffle gets stuck somewhere. There are times when for some reason the A/C will not blow as hard out of the vents as normal. It happens on MAX A/C and it would seem to happen on normal A/C as well. When I turn the fan all the way up, I can hear the fan blowing the air inside the air box (it sounds like a roaring frieght train, but very little air comes out of the vents. So I am wondering if there is a baffle that is getting stuck? And if so, how hard is this to fix, or is it better left alone? I don't think it is the fan going out as I can hear it blowing the air, but just very little comes out of the vents. It only does it intermittently, but usually intermittently will turn into frequently and eventually constantly if not attended too..

oh - it's a 2001 Ex-cab 2wd. That's S-10 Since were in an S-10 forum I would hope that it being an S-10 would be safe assumption, but just in case.... Although the year is helpful

the_big_al

I will do some tests to find out... I did it again today and I did notice that Max A/C high, the air flow was not as much as the Norm A/C. And that is usually reversed. MAX A/C blows harder than Norm A/C on the highest setting....... but I will do some tests to see how the air flows from Vent to florr etc... Thanks for the tip

the_big_al

Did you get the caliper for the correct side?? Meaning you didn't accidently get a left side caliper and put it on the right side? I did that and had the same thing happen... That was one of my Doh moments.