By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Annual mileage has gone down as I no longer need to drive to work. Total about 104,000 km. (65,000 miles) for an annual average of over 17,000 km (11,000) miles.
Four major troublespots:
1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25,000 miles)
2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement;
3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer
4) Steering rack failed / damaged; this was likely due to a driving error on my part.
As mentioned above, my overall assessment is it's still a great car!
p.s. I've replaced the front bulbs a couple of times in the last 6 years and it was a bit tricky but doable.
Yes, it appears there are 3 screws/sockets that you need to unscrew to access the bulbs. One of my concerns is how to reattach the assembly to ensure it's water-tight without cracking the glass. Also, it's a bit awkward working in the space but I'll give it a go.
Replacing the rear bulbs is an easy fix (except for the tight working space). Required: replacement bulb (GE 7383), screw driver, 10mm socket.
p.s. it would be handy to have a magnetic driver to hold the bolt.
I have question about my headlights on the P5 (just the normal lights not the brights or blinkers). I have had to replace them both since I got the car, the owner before me said in the time he had owned the car (since he bought it brand new in 2002) he had to replace the bulbs 7 to 8 times! I want to buy a little bit more expensive bulb but it's not worth it if they keep burning out.
Any ideas as to why this could be occurring?
Thanks,
-race
Not sure what the problem is. Maybe some kind of voltage surge.
Amazing! My 2002 P5 front bulbs have fared much better. Only one replacement per side.
Replacing the bulb can be tricky (esp. getting the critters out of the paperclip contraption) but it is doable (esp. if you have small hands with long fingers - unlike mine). For all halogen bulbs the rule is: don't touch the bulb as your bodily oil shortens its life. A tip: Be patient esp. the first time as you figure out how to unhinge the casing and afterwards flip it back in place. The bulbs sold by my dealer have not cost me more than at the local auto supply store.
What else could it be? What have you done to make them last so long?
-Race
Frankly, nothing special. The car is up to 103K km. (i.e. 64K miles) and the front and rear lights have been hanging in there with no effort on my part. In Canada, we get the DRLs for the front so I was expecting the lights to burn out more quickly, but no, they seem to last. I believe Sylvania is the brand of bulb (but I'll have to check).
What else could it be?
What I wonder about is whether that "paperclip" harness is sufficiently tight or whether the bulbs become loose with time and eventually wear out.
I hope that's enlightening ...
They're all burned out, of course.
Just kidding; they're all fine. I bought the car new and the only thing I've had to replace besides oil, filters and wiper blades was the left front CV Joint when the car was six months old and under warranty. Unfortunately, my 5-speed is one of those with the bucking problem, but I figured out years ago how to compensate for it.
On another happy note I've been somewhat successful reducing freeway speed from average 77 to about 73, and decreased acceleration fun somewhat, and MPG went up from 25.5 to 28.
I need some solutions, the timing belt on my P5 is squeaking pretty badly. The timing belt was replaced at 100K miles so it's in good shape (I have 140k miles on the car now). I brought it to an auto shop and they said either the belt needs to be tightened or I have crap in one of the pulleys. My guess is crap in one of the pulleys cause the sound is coming right from the alternator pulley. BUT, just in case the pulley isn't the issue what is the proper tension for the belt so I can see if it needs to be tightened? Right now I have been playing catch-up with the car so hopefully this is all. Other that a few necessary tune-up things the car has been rock solid!
Anyway, thanks for all your help!
-race
P.S. I want to black-out the head lights but I have heard that it causes low visibility, has anybody done this?
We have a 2002 Protege5 w/ 105k miles on it. Wonderful car, bought it used with 28k on it. It's overheating on us during trips with any kind of weight or bike on the roof. We've had the coolant flushed and the thermostat replaced.
We recently drove from St. Louis to Boston. Bike on the roof, a few suitcases in the trunk, only two people and dog in the car. At about 20-30 mi. the engine temperature gauge begins to rise. Only when we turn on the heat in the car, effectively removing the heat from the engine space does the gauge drop. So we've been left with driving and blasting the heat on longer trips with any kind of load.
It seems to me the engine isn't getting fresh air from outside when driving. Is there a fan which should pull this in? I've also noticed this car doesn't kick on any kind of colling fan after long drives -- when we park and turn off the car I remember my past cars kicked on a fan. Though, I haven't heard my 07' Mazda3 do this.
Just trying to get an idea of what might be wrong so we don't get hosed by the dealer or mechanic.
No warranty left on this car.
Thanks, and look forward to hearing from you guys.
Gretsch
-race
I have a 2002 P5 with around 140k kms on it. Just like some others here I've replaced my front bulbs, both sides, about 8 times since the car was new. That is, about every 8-10 months. Brand of bulbs seems to make no difference. I've read through these forums and others, and the problem is widespread, but some people seem to be spared. Canada or US, DRLs or no - no difference. I remember reading once that someone had the voltage going to the headlamps adjusted (lowered) and that seems to take care of it, but I can't recall where I read it, so don't quote me on that.
Otherwise, my little Pro has been an amazing car. Sure, the other gremlin this car is known for - brakes - has been a problem, but as long as the sliding pin on the caliper (especially on the rear) is lubed frequently, this problem can be kept in check.
I've also had a problem with the EGR valve, and I was about to have it cleaned, but then it suddenly seemed to right itself.
Just the other day I replaced the front stabilizer links. Got an after market part, so I hope those will last longer. Mechanic told me he changes a lot of these on the Proteges. Also had to fasten the exhaust heat shield, where the two front screws holding it shut had rusted away, creating a nasty vibrating sound under slow acceleration. $20 fix - no big deal.
All of the above is what I consider fairly routine maintenance items, and as long as this is all I have to do to keep the car running, I'm laughing. It's a great car to drive, gets great mileage if you're not too heavy on the pedal, and it still looks darn stylish.
Only problem now is that I must have hit too many potholes over the winter and my alignment is badly out of whack. This has carved up the front tires, so I need an alignment and new tires (second new set since new - not bad). I had Kumho ECSTA ASX tires, but will not buy them again. Great for the first couple of thousand kilometers, but after that they started getting noisy and quickly lost their grip in snow and rain.
Leaning towards Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S this time. They've gotten excellent reviews all around, but they are a bit expensive. Still, a good set of tires is the most important safety item on a car, so I don't want to be cheap and dead.
Anyways, that's a bit of my P5 experience so far. This is a long-term relationship, so I hope it will keep up as well as it has so far!
Ditto! Since switching to a job closer to home and with fuel prices skyrocketing I have reduced the use of my 2002 P5, but not the pleasure when I do drive it. This remains a wonderful ride.
p.s. It's interesting that you have not mentioned any problems with rusting. Are you in a southern state or in a balmy part of Canada like BC?
Back in 2006.
under warantee?
It wasn't covered under the warranty. Mazda Canada offered a good will agreement where they covered half the cost of the repair to both rear wheel wells; I ended up paying $200.
Try negotiating with the dealership to have the problem fixed under warranty but don't be surprised if they disagree. See if you can work out a solution that covers some of the cost. Remind the dealer that this is a known problem that affects many Mazda Proteges; see also the Lemon aid Guide to Used Vehicles for more information about the problem.
-race
Do you mean something other than the black liner inside the wheel wells?
-race
Does anyone know if Mazda has a 6 spd trans that'll bolt up to the P5?
Back in the day I used to road race an Austin Healy 3000 with electric OD in all 5 gears. Just one electric OD on 5th in the P5 would be terrific if anyone makes anything like that these days. Any ideas out there? Thanks.
Now the CEL is back on but none of the symptoms are happening.
Symptoms= After driving for about 20KM at a constant speed it will act as if it is only running on 2cyl. It wont loose speed unless I let the gas go, and it is as if I have no peddle when I give more gas......
Someone PLEASE??????????
As in, no power/torque?
Any stalling or hesitation?
How many miles/kilometres on your 02 P5?
Any modifications?
Was the timing belt changed?
Yes, no power/hesitation feels like the Cruise control is on and wont let me accelerate faster.
Most of the time after this happens it only last a few seconds, then the next time I pull to a light or stop it wants to stall but will not drop below 300RPMs.
it has 133,000KM NO MODs, Not 100% about timing belt I just bought it back in December. the service record show the water pump crank belt were services but didn't say anything about re n re....
EGR, PCV, and Coils were all changed EGR was about 9months ago...
Thank you Very much for you help in the matter!!!
How about the sparkplugs? Did you change them when you did the coils?
Another possibility is that the throttle body / fuel system is dirty and in need of a good chemical cleaning. You may want to consider a fuel system service to remove internal carbon build up and combustion byproducts. The service, called Motorvac by some, restores fuel efficiency and engine performance.
Regarding the timing belt, you may want to double check to see if it was replaced; it may have been done when the water pump was replaced. This belt usually gets replaced at about 96,000 km; other nearby belts and components can get replaced at the same time.
The Chemical treatment you are talking about also I will look into this..
Thank you Very much for your help in the matter!!!
"Sorry for not putting this info in earlier,
Yes, no power/hesitation feels like the Cruise control is on and wont let me accelerate faster.
Most of the time after this happens it only last a few seconds, then the next time I pull to a light or stop it wants to stall but will not drop below 300RPMs.
it has 133,000KM NO MODs, Not 100% about timing belt I just bought it back in December. the service record show the water pump crank belt were services but didn't say anything about re n re....
EGR, PCV, and Coils were all changed EGR was about 9months ago...
Thank you Very much for you help in the matter!!! "
If so, what did you use? How is it working out? Any problems?
Thanks.
It's such an annoying task, I have dealer do it. Found one dealership that charges just for the bulb, no labor. I replace approx one headlight bulb per year.
You're right, replacing front or rear light bulbs is a nuisance. I haven't had to do it too often but every time I do, I wish my fingers were thinner.
I've got a weird problem with my cruise control.
With the running lights on, cruise control works normal. At night when I turn on my headlights, the CC light goes out and cruise is turned off.
It's bizarre I know but I wonder of any if you have had this problem and how you solved it, or can suggest where I should start looking for a solution.
Thx
D
Do you mean that you cannot activate the cruise control?
In daylight driving, cruise control works normal, i.e. I turn on the MAIN, and then press cruise/coast and everything's fine. But when it gets dark, and I turn on my headlights, the cruise light goes out and I start losing speed as if I had hit the brake and cancelled the cruise control.
Something in the headlight control is cancelling the cruise and I don't understand schematics well enough to see where these two controls join up. It sure doesn't make any sense for it to work in one mode and not in the other.
I've been told there's a "smart" junction box somewhere in the car, but I can't see it on any of the schematics (or don't recognise it).
This is my first Mazda and I'm otherwise very happy with the car, but this little problem is annoying.
I'm hoping someone who's familiar with Protege5's will recognise the problem and offer some solutions. (Fingers crossed!)
Dingo
There used to be a service manual for the Protege available in PDF on the web; unfortunately the site is no longer working. You might want to search for it to see if it has reappeared on another site.
Also, has anyone upgraded their stereo? If so, what did you use? How is it?
Thanks,
z
Some details appreciated. Trying to avoid dealers.