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Mazda Protege5

1148149150151153

Comments

  • eaguoneaguon Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. Have you ever checked your tail lights with the headlights on? Not only do I have your issue, but when I checked my tail lights they appear to be on. Even my third brake light is on as if I were stepping on the pedal.
  • rminnjrminnj Member Posts: 2
    Wow your Protege5 hs done better than ours. Our 2002 Protege5 has been very
    reliable over the years never breaking down. Of course today at 112K the car needs a wheel bearing again and the hub and a control arm for a good $1200 bill.
    That would actually be ok but the car itself is rusting to pieces in the rear wheel wells, the bottom of all 4 doors and the middle of the hatch... its like we brought an old Fiat from the early 70s. Even if we repair everything the car will rust to pieces while the motor keeps going. So disappointed..Mazda almost made a good vehicle but lost us as customers forever.
  • dingo1dingo1 Member Posts: 4
    I'm interested in your post. Because that's what happened to me as well. A friend pointed out that the tail lights and third brake light were all on! Not kosher!
    Then I discovered the cruise problem. Let me know if you find a solution. (Other than replacing the central relay!)

    dingo1
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Our 2002 Protege5 has been very reliable over the years never breaking down. Of course today at 112K the car needs a wheel bearing again and the hub and a control arm for a good $1200 bill. That would actually be ok but the car itself is rusting to pieces in the rear wheel wells, the bottom of all 4 doors and the middle of the hatch ...
    Yes, rust is a definitely a problem although I wouldn't say it's unique to Mazda vehicles. My previous car, a Toyota Corolla, also started rusting at the door bottoms, rear quarter panel, etc. as a result of scrapes and scratches in spots difficult to see (e.g. bottom of doors) and to not being rustproofed early enough (I waited until the second year). In the Protege, I've noticed the rust starting to re-emerge in the wheel wells, two years after the problem was corrected. The problem is minor for now but it won't take long before it grows into something more serious. I am considering keeping the car for another couple of years and have not decided what to do about the situation.

    Here's an update on my 2002 Protege5 which will be celebrating its 7th birthday in a little over a month. Overall, I have had a great time with it. The P5 is still nimble, safe and fuel efficient (avg. 25 mpg).

    Annual mileage has gone down as I no longer need to drive to work. Total in May 2009 should be about 120,000 km. (75,000 miles) for an annual average of over 17,000 km (11,000) miles.

    The good news is that there are no additional troublespots since last year's report. So in 7 years the following major problems occurred:
    1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25K miles); BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires have been a very good replacement
    2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement;
    3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer (at a moderate cost)
    4) Steering rack failed / damaged (at a significant cost); this was likely due to a driving error on my part.

    My overall assessment: feels as good as new and is still a great car!
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    I have read a lot of comments by fellow owners. Tires, rust, mileage, etc. I have 170,000 plus miles. The only thing I did was put on a K&N filter, magnaflow turbo muffler, and had computer reprogammed. Total cost less than $800. For those who comlain ed about lack of power, this adjustment makes the car much quicker.

    I had the original Dunlaps and got 60,000 miles so I can understand those who claim they got much less. I drive back and forth from So Cal to No Cal. So lots of highway mileage. No complains though I now use all weather Kumos which are wearing well.

    Only thing I've had to do was a water pump at 80,000 and just recently new timing belt. Wasn't a lot of wear on it but I decided to replace for safety. Rust only shows on brakes so I have to believe those complain about rust must live in cold weather areas.

    Front rotars were just replaced at 170,000 miles.

    Original clutch which I can't believe. If I keep the car under 80, around 76-78 mph, I get 32 miles per gallon. In town 25. I don't drive the hard but I don't baby it either. I have the car as high as 110 mph and the car was very smooth. No fear.

    Like everyone else, I like this car because it drives like a sport car in cornering and I have great torque power with aftermarket equipment. I also own a 2007 Speed 3 but I prefer driving this car on a daily basis because it is more fun to drive. Speed 3 is a great car for its cost and equipment, but the P5 is lighter and feels more agile. 5spd transmission much smoother than the 6 spd on the Speed3. Better gas mileage, too, but Speed 3 gives very good mileage for a high performance car.

    I think the PR5 is a better car than the current Mazda 3. And with my slight modifications, it's a quicker car.
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    See my message on April 23. I think you be very happy with the extra power.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I also own a 2007 Speed 3 but I prefer driving this car on a daily basis because it is more fun to drive. Speed 3 is a great car for its cost and equipment, but the P5 is lighter and feels more agile. 5spd transmission much smoother than the 6 spd on the Speed3. Better gas mileage, too, but Speed 3 gives very good mileage for a high performance car.

    THe results of your comparison amaze me. I would have thought that you would prefer the MazdaSpeed3 for the added power and transmission. It's high praise for the Protege5 to say it is more agile and smoother than the MS3.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Sure enough, as soon as I said there were no additional troublespots, my 2002 Protege5 gets another at the end of its 7th year. So here is the updated list of major troublespots:
    1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25K miles); BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires have been a very good replacement
    2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement;
    3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer (at a moderate cost)
    4) Steering rack failed / damaged (at a significant cost); this was likely due to a driving error on my part.
    5) Rear stabilizer links failed (corrected at a moderate cost).

    My overall assessment: feels as good as new and is still a great car!
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for all of the info.
    I agree, the P5 is better than the Mazda3; better cornering, better looks, better sound system. Agile cornering is better than anything I've ever driven, including recently a Chrysler Crossfire (Mercedes suspension). I still prefer the cornering characteristics of the Dunlops over the Kuhmo's.

    Outside of some rear door rust (WI winters), and swarbar links, My 03 P5 still seems fine at 130K miles. Good to hear that at 170K, it should still be solid.

    Couple of questions:
    Have you ever changed 5-speed trans fluid? If so, with what, how long ago, did it have any effect pos or neg?
    Did you replace brakes w/ other than standard Mazda equipment?
    I've heard K&N filters allow more dirt particles through, possibly fouling sensors. Any issues so far?

    Thanks.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    As mentioned earlier, back in 2006 I had made a deal with my Mazda dealership to have them remove the rust that had developed in the rear wheel wells of my 2002 Protege5 for which I paid $250. Lo and behold this spring rust started to re-emerge in the very same spot. This month I removed the rust spots myself with a little steel wool and repainted them with some rust paint. Fortunately, the rust was not immediately visible and neither is my "fix". :blush:

    This may be a solution for others who spot the problem early and decide to do it themselves.

    p.s. it is not surprising that cars rust in Canada considering the amount of salt dumped on our roads.
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    Don't feel too bad about the rust. Sounds like yours isn't as bad as mine is getting. I'm starting to notice that the seam welded joint of the exterior metal and the wheel-well metal is really starting to buckle and bulge on mine. I sanded and painted myself when it first showed up but after one winter in Minnesota (we are salt happy also :)) it's all coming back with a vengeance. To be honest though, this is about the level of rust I expect from any car that has seen 7 Minnesota winters. My P5 will be 8 years old July 1st.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    ... this is about the level of rust I expect from any car that has seen 7 Minnesota winters. My P5 will be 8 years old July 1st.

    Mine, too! It's a 2002 and will be starting its 8th year in two weeks. Municipalities should go on a strict salt diet; it's not only better for the environment it's also easier on the wallet. In any case, have a great non-salt summer.

    p.s. a friend of mine is still driving my 1991 Toyota Corolla that has been afflicted by the four letter cancer; his solution is "have no shame". It may not look pretty but it's still chugging along.
  • genchogencho Member Posts: 1
    Hey,i have my Mazda almost a year and i love it.I'm concern if i have to change my timing belt. is on 83k?and how much it can be. also when I'm driving with 50mph or over i hear very annoying noise coming from the passenger side. there is something vibrating and drives me crazy. it sounds like the window is moving inside the door but I removed the plastic cover and was looking at it i. wasn't this. removed the whole front door and there is a long, tiny ,plastic part inside the fender separating it from the door.I put some isolation tape and the noise stopped for about a week and then started again.Is it ok if i remove this part completely or the problem is something else.it is so noisy.
    I took this part out I took the door cover and now driving without it to see if I can find where the noise is coming from-just drives me crazzy :)
  • layniellayniel Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I've been looking out for a Protege5 for a while now, and it seems the price just goes up and up! Haha, well I found one that I am very interested in. Only problem is, it has 130,000 miles on it. Right now I have a chevy cavalier that has pretty much crapped out at 135,000 miles. I know I know, the Mazda is Japanese... But that doesn't mean I don't worry!

    I plan on taking the car to get it checked out by my mechanic, but wanted people's opinions who've owned the car. It's a 2002 with an automatic transmission.

    Thanks!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Protege5 ... has 130,000 miles on it ... taking the car to get it checked out by my mechanic, but wanted people's opinions who've owned the car. It's a 2002 with an automatic transmission.

    Good thinking!

    My 2002 P5 has been both a lot of fun and very practical. It has nowhere close to 130K miles as it's not used for commuting. At approximately 70K miles it has had its issues (see posts 7811 and 7815 above) but many of these were due to normal wear and tear and the occasional mishap. In sum, one great car!

    Your mechanic should do a thorough check of the following:
    - body (check for rust around rear wheel wells, door bottoms and underside)
    - brakes (all four but especially the state of the front discs)
    - tires (get a reading of the tread life and when to have them replaced)
    - engine components (including radiator, battery, hoses)
    - suspension components (including struts, stabilizer links, mounts)
    - any parts that have been repaired due to accidents.

    Also, try getting a copy of the service records showing that the previous owner has maintained the vehicle properly (including replacement of the timing belt and regular servicing). You'll feel a lot better knowing its pedigree.

    All the best!
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    If most of those miles were highway miles I think you should be alright. I have 142k miles on my 2002 automatic and other than the rear brake sticking issue it has been a good car. I recommend not using the parking brake because I think that contributes to the issue. The timing belt should have been changed at least once in 130k miles so make sure that was done.
  • dd123dd123 Member Posts: 53
    I have my protege5 at 115K miles with everything original except tires.
    touchwood: no problem so far
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I have my protege5 at 115K miles with everything original except tires

    Including original timing belt?
  • dd123dd123 Member Posts: 53
    Yes, at 115K, I am still on original timing belt. Since, I dont drive my P5 a lot and it has a non interference engine, I am not really concerned about changing the belt.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    at 115K, I am still on original timing belt. Since, I dont drive my P5 a lot and it has a non interference engine, I am not really concerned about changing the belt.

    Hmmm. So, you're on the highway doing 70 mph and the belt snaps, what's next? Wouldn't it be prudent to have the belt replaced according to the manufacturer's specs?
  • gerdiegerdie Member Posts: 1
    My P5 is at 82K and I need to replace my tires soon. I'm torn between Kumho Ecsta ASX and Goodyear RSA from TireRack.com.
    Does anybody have anything to add to help me make my decision????
    Please help!!!
    Gerdie :)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    What size?

    Have you considered the BF Goodrich Traction T/A 195/50/R16 V rated tires?
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    Gerdie,
    I chose Kumho's a while back because of price & ratings, vs OEM Dunlops.
    IMO, price was the only advantage.
    Dunlops were better in snow. Dry cornering w/ Dunlops is much more responsive. Initially, Kumho's are better in rain. Once a bit worn, they are no better than Dunlops.

    If you are looking for an alternative to OEM Dunlops, you may want to continue towards Goodyear, Goodrich, etc.

    Good luck.
    O15
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    Before a hose cracked, I never changed the transmission fluid. When they replace the hose for $6.00, they replaced with new tranny/brake fluid. No effects with change.

    Even with 170,000 miles, I have never replaced my brakes other than pads. Pads were not Mazda. They're fine.

    In reference to the K&N filter, no issues of sensors. And I've had the K&N filter for almost 100,000 miles.

    I'm in So California and have not any problems that I've read by other owners but I have to think it's the climate and how they drive. Only big thing was a water pump at 80,000 miles and that's been it. Same clutch which I can't believe. The gearbox is smoother than my Speed 3. 6 spd turbo.

    The K&N filter gives a deep sound and if you don't care for it, you might not want a K&N. But I think it gives a "throaty, deep" sound which sounds cool.

    Hope info helps but I'm keep my PR5 til it drops.

    Good luck.
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    Mustang, Thanks for all of the info, brakes, tranny, intake, etc.

    K&N for 100K miles is as good a testimony as any. "Deep" sound would be welcome.
    My clutch at 140K is still hanging on - longest of any I've driven.
    I agree, climate must be an issue, particularly w/ rust/paint.

    Outside of any major issues, I'll also be keepin my P5 as long as I can.

    Thanks again.
  • missmelis34missmelis34 Member Posts: 3
    The hose that runs from back side of engine to the air filter box had dry rotted and when the guys at the local firestone checked my k&n filter (why they did I don't know I maintain that) they broke the hose in a couple places. Afterward my check engine light came on and my car was jerking and sputtering. I have it rigged up now but I'd like to replace the hose and I'm having trouble finding it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to find this hose? I've checked the local Mazda dealership but I'd like to see other prices, they are not cheap.
  • missmelis34missmelis34 Member Posts: 3
    I've had best luck with my BF Goodrich, I even got them on sale! I had Dunlop and Fuzion before these which wore very fast. Good luck with the tires
  • missmelis34missmelis34 Member Posts: 3
    I see so many posts about rust on the Protege 5's! I've got an 03 P5 which was in Florida until I got it in 06. So now it's been through 2 Missouri winters so far however I have not had any problems with rust. But, I will definately keep an eye out after reading these posts.
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    I don't usually check this site but every so often. I just a trip to Lake Tahoe,CA where you have to go through the twists of the High Sierra roads. This is where the PR5 really shines since the Proteges were known for it's mobility. Well, it was a blast. Second time in 3 years I've taken the trip with the PR5. Last year I took the Speed 3. Now, I can telll you why I like the PR5 so much. No doubt, on the straights, where there are not many going to Tahoe, the Speed 3 blasts through the roads. Because of the aftermarket equipment I've added on plus the stock gearing by Mazda, the PR5 peak torque comes in mid range rpm and why the PR5 feels so good in town though it is slower than the 2002 Toy Matrix 60 and quarter time. But in the mountains where straights are not a big deal, the PR5 blasts along as well, but of course, not to the MPH of the 3. But with that K&N filter and turbo muffler, it sounds like a true racer with it's deep throaty sound!! I know the PR5 had a great 600 ft saleom time via Motor Trend 2002. The Speed 3 is tight as well and with the wider tires, possibly it's a bit faster, but not by much. Remember, it gives alway almost 500 lbs to the PR5. I know the PR5 has a grip of .79 vs Speed 3 has .92 according again to the car mags. But because the 5 is lower than the Speed 3, 16" wheels vs 18", possibly closer to the road gives me a more exciting ride. The 3 is certainly a more refine car than the 5 and I like it as well especially when some fast car like a BMW M3 comes along. I've modified the Speed 3 with Cobbing Tuning Access port, a down racing pipe, and a Cobb Cold Air Filter (I think I should have put on a K&N because it supposedly gives more torque and hp (but it only came out recently & before I put the Cobb one on), so you should see the faces of the M3 boys to see that a little, old Mazda keep up all the way --- and for a lot lower costs without all that snobish attitude!!.

    Anyway, PR5 and the Speed 3 are great cars and I'm fortunate to own both of them. The give me the best of two worlds --- one drives like a go kart with the feel of the road & great gas mileage, and the other, well, it was when it came out in 2007 and still one of the best money rockets for your buck!
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    Check out my latest comment if you check this site to a person's comment about my comparsion of my PR5 & Speed 3. I think you will find it interesting. Just my opinon but I like driving them depending on the mood I'm in.
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    Great comparison, Mustang.

    My only M3 experience is dealer test drives. I agree, it's more refined, but I found it leaning during cornering. The M3 Speed seemed a little tighter.

    One of the best features, IMO, of the P5 is the go-cart like cornering & ride. What it lacks in straight line acceleration (keeps speeding tickets low) I make up for in cornering fun. I changed tires a couple years back & lost the crisp go-cart feel, so am back to Dunlops.

    I'm curious as to what tires you're running on both.

    The trip sounded like a blast!

    Thanks for the info.
    O15
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    I have been driving the Speed3 the last few days. Now, I can tell you more. The Speed 3 was really not built for corning due to its weight. If you look at various mag stories, you will find this out. In fact, the newest Chevy Cobalt with turbo engine corner much quicker.

    I think if put a K&N filter, turbo muffler & have the computer reprogam like I did, you find accerleration in PR5 much better. I know when I hit 4000 rpm the engine really comes on. Zipping from 80 in fifth gear to 90 seems like nothing. I gone high as 110 mph with the car going up the Grapevine Highway hill grade going back to LA and I was shocked.

    Of course, even with these modifications, Speed 3 is much faster in accerleraton. You be interested to know I'm going to have the Speed 3 dyno with Cobb Access Port map. Car has currently a racing downpipe and Cobb Cold Air Filter. The car should easily be pushing over 320 hp according to the tech guy who is going to dyno the car.

    As for tires, I have using Kumos All Season tires. I forgot the model but they have been mentioned in other comments in this forum. Here in So Cal, the tires are effective due to weather. Not much difference between all seaon tires and summer tires like the Dunlaps unless it's wet surface according to a Road & Track article I read about tires. I agree.. By the way, I got 65,000 on my Dunlaps that came with the car. I was told that was a high number for a performance tire but again, it's how you drive the car. I drive a lot between No and So Cal so most of my mileage is highway, straight riding.

    Tires on Speed 3 are Bridgstone High Performance tires that came with car. 18" wheels which means I'm not going to get much mileage on them. I have 26,000 on them now and if I get 10,000 more, I'll be lucky. I was told going down to 17" would be better for performance and wear. Also they are 215s which an odd number. Next set will be 225s and probably again Kumos all seasonal. The extra width probably will make up difference of a high performance tire. I can tell you turning the same corners the Speed3 is tighter but not the same feel of the lighter and lower PR5. Feels racier as you know.

    By the way, mustangleader is my user name because I own a 1968 Mustang fastback. Engine is modified with flowmasters so the sound and ride is completely different. And yes, the Speed 3 is much faster even when it was stock.

    As I said, I'm driving the PR5 til it drops. 176,000 plus currently. I expect to get at least 300,000 miles which I got from a1989 Nissian 240x. A great corning car ... even better than the PR5 because it is rear supension drive.

    Hope this provides you with more info.
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    P.S.

    I had the muffler & reprogamming of the computer done first. I instantly felt the power via rpm accerleration. When I added K&N, that's when hitting 4000 rpm (which is the max torque 135 according to Mazda) the car really responded.

    As I said, you love the K&N filter sound so I suggest if you do anything, the cold air filter and the reprogramming of the computer. You won't have complaints about accerleration. The muffler adds a great sound like the Speed 3.

    Hope this helps.
  • nealacmsnealacms Member Posts: 1
    George (ginto). My Toronto area dealer is also recommending Save Eskimo S3 tires. Do you have an update? You may respond privately if you wish.
  • pr5speedpr5speed Member Posts: 1
    The only thing I did was put on a K&N filter, magnaflow turbo muffler, and had computer reprogammed. Total cost less than $800. For those who comlain ed about lack of power, this adjustment makes the car much quicker.

    Hey "mustangleader" - what company reprogrammed your computer?

    P.S. - Reading your post really gets me excited for my P5! =)
  • emilyanneemilyanne Member Posts: 1
    Hi!

    So I just bought an 02 P5. It has roughly 95,000 miles.

    Here's my issue:

    When I start driving the car for the first time on a given day, when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear the car shutters/shakes violently. It's only when I shift from 1st to 2nd, and after I've been driving for about 10 minutes it stops happening. Has anyone experianced this? Should I be concerned? Any ideas on why this might be happening?

    Thanks!
  • mustangleadermustangleader Member Posts: 8
    Jet Performance in Huntington Beach, CA
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    I would bring it in to have it looked at as soon as possible. I'm not familiar with the manual 5 speed on the P5 but it might be time for a new clutch considering the miles on your vehicle. If you just bought it, go back to where you bought it from, if it was a dealer. Maybe they will work out a deal and split the costs.
  • guty06guty06 Member Posts: 1
    hey, i am from domunican republic and i have a mazda protege 5 2002, my problem is that i need to replace some part like the brake rotors. i go to new york the next week, where is the best place to buy it? and where can help me with my car? thanks

    email: gustavo_cr02@hotmail.com
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    Any auto parts store will have them. You can buy them for as little as $25 if you are willing to do the work yourself. You will want to buy new pads also. Otherwise, any service shop will do the work for you. Expect to pay a minimum $100 per wheel at a shop.
  • blackadder5639blackadder5639 Member Posts: 31
    The Kumho tire you're referring to is probably the Kumho Ecsta ASX. That's what I have been using for my 2002 Protege5......I get them from Discount Tire.
  • blackadder5639blackadder5639 Member Posts: 31
    I haven't had this problem with by 02 Protege5 5spd manual. (I have about 83,000 miles). So, as jamz suggested, perhaps it might be time to replace the clutch.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Trying to figure out from where that rattle is coming?

    For the last week or so my 2002 Protege5 had a loud rattle upon startup and acceleration. It wounded like metal scraping on metal. A mechanic at my garage checked it out and determined that it was parts of the heat shield; the fix involved removing some parts (clamps, etc.) from the exhaust system. The car is purring again!
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    I had a heat shield rattling on mine also. I just ended up adding an extra stainless steel hose clamp. My P5 is going to cross the 160k mile mark tomorrow and surprisingly that is the only thing that has failed on the exhaust.
  • rockinrrockinr Member Posts: 4
    after the engine is warmed up i acts like it is low on battery charge when restarting the engine. New battery with plenty of charge. sometimes it blows the main ignition fuse. could this be an ignition relay issue? I Really need an answer to this it is becoming a real problem. :(
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    I would check the wire connections to your starter motor. Could be the the starter motor itself. Either of those could cause the fuse to start blowing.
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    I'm no longer going to bother answering trouble-shooting questions posted by people who don't contribute to this forum. It's not worth my time trying to help people who never give any feedback of any sort. :(
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited June 2010
    people who never give any feedback
    You might want to check the related forum for the Mazda Protege where I think your feedback is being considered. In any case, I've always found your comments of interest, whether I have the problem or not. Some of us learn from others problems and solutions. Keep the faith!
  • iamziamz Member Posts: 542
    edited June 2010
    Don't worry autonomous, I'll always answer your tech questions (assuming I have anything useful to say).;) I've appreciated your contributions over the past years also. I should warn you though, I'll be selling my P5 by the end of summer. It's been almost 9 years and now over 160k miles. The car has been great but with those kind of miles I felt it was prudent to get something new. Hopefully I can find a new owner who can get a few more years out of it before a major failure occurs.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited June 2010
    almost 9 years and now over 160k miles. The car has been great but with those kind of miles I felt it was prudent to get something new
    I hear you. Mine is in its ninth year but with only half the miles (I don't commute to work) so I'm hoping for at least another two or three more years before I hand it over to a buddy of mine. The Pro has had its issues but on the whole has been a great ride.

    What are you planning as your replacement vehicle?

    Personally, I'm turned off the Mazda3 although it still has many positive features. I am looking for a light (under 3K lbs.) hatchback that is fuel efficient (30+ mpg combined city/highway) with a sporty, fun-to-drive demeanor. The Mazda2, the Ford Fiesta, the Golf TDI and the future Civic CRZ all seem promising based on what I've read. Oh, to be in Europe where all the wonderful hatchbacks roam!
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