Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently tried to purchase a new vehicle after being out of the market for a while and found that prices were much higher than you expected? A reporter would like to talk to you; please reach out to [email protected] by 1/22 for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
edited July 2014 in Oldsmobile
So I figured I'd add something. I definitely wash my car at least once a month, but try to do it more like once a week. I wax it about once every month-two months. This includes the winters. Fortunately the Washington D.C. area has weird enough weather that you get the occasional freaky 65 degree January day.

I changed the oil after the first 800 miles because there are significantly more metal bits deposited in the oil in the first few hundred miles on an engine. I use two quarts of Mobil 1 and the rest regular Mobil. I am trying to find the ACDelco Ultraguard filters (Pep Boys says they don't carry them anymore) but will use regular ACDelco Duraguards until I find them.

I plan on changing the tranny fluid after 50,000 miles despite the "lifetime" claim. Once the fluid gets burnt, it is too late... Besides, 50,000 miles is better than 30,000, so I'm still happy with the extended life. I'm not sure if I will wait 5 years on the coolant... Maybe...


  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    Sorry if there was a misunderstanding! Guess I wasn't clear in my last message. My bad. And of course, this is THE place to discuss C&M for your Aurora. :-)

    Re: leather interior care- This discussion is archived, but perhaps it may have some helpful info.

    Leather Seat Maintenance
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I found some interesting info on why Pep Boys has stopped carrying ACDelco Ultraguard filters. None of the Pep Boys near me carry them. Apparently people were swapping Ultraguard filters with the Duraguards. This way they check-out with the Duraguard box and pay $2.50 for a $9 filter. I'm not sure if this is true, but it sounds like it could be... I just thought it was interesting.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I emailed ACDelco about the Ultraguard filter for the Aurora because I have had a heck of a time finding any, and because their website doesn't list it as a part for the Aurora. If you search for oil filters, only the PF58 shows up for the Aurora. If you check the vehicles that the PF58 fits, it will show Auroras and Cadillac Northstars and the Blazer. If you check for the vehicles that the UPF58 fit, it only mentions the Cadillac Northstars.

    So because of these two things I decided to email ACDelco to see what was up. They responded that they are discontinuing the Ultraguard filter. So that sucks... I sent a reply because I would like to know if they were discontinued because of performance problems or because of sales problems. I'll let you all know what they say...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    According to ACDelco, the Ultraguard Gold line of oil filters were dropped because of poor sales, not because of any performance issues.
  • rjs200240,

    Thanks for the heads up. I have two UPF-58s in my stock. I'll try to buy some more before they disappear (although I may already be too late).
  • Recenty my '97 with 73 000 miles is taking longer to start, intermittently. I'm thinking it may be time to replace the spark plugs and maybe spark plug wires.

    My problem/question: Which plug? My owner's manual says AC 41-929; service manual says AC 41-900; emissions label on radiator cover doesn't specify.

    What gap? Owner's manual = 0.050; service manual = 0.050; emissions label = 0.060.

    What is correct?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I don't think it is too late to get the Ultraguards. I managed to get three of them into my local Olds dealer. However, the Olds dealer is the only place I could find them.

    As far as the spark plug gap, I would lean towards the emissions label because those are usually the final word. However, you might try removing some plugs and see what the gap is. If they are worn and the gap is still only .056 or something, then go with the owners/service manual.
  • On my 1995 Autobahn, I changed the trans fluid at 90,256 miles. In the fluid were many small metal pieces. The filter and gasket are reuseable, simply clean them. I replaced the fluid with Mobil 1 Synthetic Trans Fluid. Yeah it costs a little more but it has never let me down.

    It almost goes without saying that I also use 100% Mobil 1 motor oil (10w30). Additionally, I use STP Oil Treatment as well as STP fuel system cleaner. I change the oil every 7,500 miles. I have no oil leaks.

    I have also added Slick 50 because I had good experiences with it. The engine idles smoother and revs very easily.

    The ignition switch had to be replaced at 70,439 miles, new plugs and wires at 84,515 miles.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Has anyway replaced an Aurora classic coolant pump belt? At 75k miles mine shows many cracks and feels brittle. I plan to replace it soon and have already purchased a Dayco replacement. The service manual procedure seems very straightforward. However, when I examine the existing setup, I cannot see how the belt can be replaced without removing the tensioner (which doesn't look like an easy task). As I see it, the problem is there is not enough space between the tensioner and the valve cover to insert the replacement belt.

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    My 1997 is 5-1/2 years old now and a bit past the recommended time to replace the coolant. I will replace it soon with Texaco Dex-Cool. Can someone who has done this tell me if draining the system (after flushing) from the radiator petcock as described in the GM service manual will remove enough fluid to be able to add 6.5 quarts (50% of 13 quarts total). If not, what is the solution?

    The service manual states that 3 sealant pellets (tabs) (GM p/n 3634621) should be added to the lower radiator hose. The parts counter man thought this was ridiculous when I bought the seal tabs; he said the tabs should be pulverized with a hammer and added to the radiator. Anybody have any relevant experience?
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    I'm not sure you need the seal tabs anymore. There was a discussion on the Sub/Yukon XL board (sorry, can't remember the messages) that said there was a TSB out that stated that you didn't need to use the seal tabs anymore. I'm sure if you search through that board you'll find it.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I don't have a classic, but I just wanted to make sure you are releasing the tension in the tensioner. You can usually do this with a 1/2" breaker bar. Is the belt not long enough, or not enough slack in it? If that is the case, perhaps you should try a different brand (maybe the Dayco streches out a lot once under tension).

    Also, why would only half of the coolant be in the radiator? Where is the rest, in the engine and overflow tank? That's a lot to be in the engine. You could pull off the lower radiator hose if the petcock valve isn't cutting it.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    I will check out the discussion board you mention. Thank you.


    No problem releasing the tensioner. The length of the belt is not a problem either -- it's the width. The belt is about 1/2" thick. The gap between the side of the tensioner, where it pivots, and the valve cover is only about 1/16".

    My 4-4-2 455 motor held more than half the volume of the coolant system; removing the radiator hose didn't help. I could drain more by taking out the freeze plugs, but that's crazy. The solution was the Prestone back-flush kit which allowed antifreeze to be added at a high point in the system, displacing water from the top radiator opening. Our aluminum 4.0s are obviously much different than the old iron big blocks. There may not be a problem with getting a 50/50 mixture into the cooling system. I just like to know what I'm up against before starting a project.
  • va3pkva3pk Posts: 6
    I just went on a 600 mile weekend shopping trip with the family.
    Of course we loaded up the trunk with all of the goodies from the mall.
    With 4 people aboard and a trunk load of stuff, the rear end of my my 95' classic was hanging pretty low. I have never looked at the struts or pump to see if they are working properly ( 120k miles)
    What I am wanting to know is where is the pump and fuse located on this vehicle.
    Before I take it in to have the struts checked, I should take a look at the pump/electrics to make sure that they are functioning. Of course , I dont have a manual yet..but I am looking.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Well, my car is going in for a few little problems. The OnStar has stopped working. I get a message saying "We are unable to authenticate your phone". OnStar has tried to fix it, but they said it needs to go to the dealer. This is weird since it used to work. There is a TSB about it (#02-08-46-004) but I don't know what it says. You can't subscribe to AllData unless your car is a 2001 or earlier.

    I've also noticed that when I use my key fob after the car was set to my wife's settings, the seats will move back to my position but the mirrors won't. There is a TSB for this too (#02-08-64-003), and the dealer says it's a quick fix. Apparently the OnStar fix might not be quick because they need to drive the car around (ugh) while OnStar tracks the location.

    I also tried a new paint-care product. I got some Meguiars #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax (the paste, not liquid). I stripped the car down and put on some #7, two coats of the Medallion Premium Paint Protectant that I usually use, and then one coat of #26. The results were really amazing. The #26 added a real noticable depth to the car. I am really pleased with how it looks now. It's an eye-catcher now whereas before it was just clean & shiney. I took some picts, but it will probably be months before I develop or scan them. If you have a dark car, I would recommend trying a paste carnauba wax on top of whatever you currently use. Needless to say, I hope like heck the dealer doesn't wash my car or get grime all over it. I spent almost 8 hrs. cleaning and detailing it.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Well, apparently the OnStar problem is not hardware. The guy followed the TSB while I was there. We even connected eventually to OnStar (it tries 4 times and the 4th will definitely go through as long as you have reception). It connected on the 4th try and the OnStar rep said they got no info on what car or who we were so it's a hardware problem. At that point I went back in the lounge (I like to watch, but I don't want to hover over shoulders). So I don't know what else they did. Anyway, they told me it's a problem with Verizon not allowing me to use their network (which explains the Verizon message saying "We are unable to authenticate your phone").

    The mirror problem turned out to be the module that controls the mirrors? The guy wasn't real specific. The part is on order, so I'll find out more when it comes in.

    A lady who was bringing her car in for service too asked me if my car was an Impala.... :\
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    is located under car by rear seats. I just dropped my pump down on my 95 classic to see why it was running while I was driving. Come to find out, I think it was because the new Gabriel shocks are not receiving air because I can move the cylinder of the shocks with my hand. I talked to the shop who were putting my new monroe struts on front about it and he said that he was not happy about Gabriel shocks. If the pump is buzzing that should let you know it is working.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    When I did my shocks on my 95 I put the GM shocks in the back of the car. The ONLY reason I ddi this was because two separte stores that sold aftermarket shocks told me to use the GM shocks for the rear because of the load leveling. One shop mentioned that unless I use the GM shocks in the rear I MAY have trouble with the fittings and the load leveling computer.

    I put the KYB's in the front of the 95.

    Also, I put the Toyo Z rated tires on the car. They are good tires if you drive the car agressively in cornering and other performance inspiried driving. However, they do NOT last very long. You can expect to get two years 24K out of the tires and then it is on to another set. I was told this when I brought them 2 years ago. I am now in the market for tires.

    This time I say no to Toyo.

    A friend wants me to put Hancock tires on the car.

  • Now you tell me, one week after I just put Toyo's on?!!! I'm always the last to know:(
  • fdionfdion Posts: 59
    The M1-206. Did I just hit a few duds or do they really suck? What's up with the thread?

    I bought one, the thread looked suspicious and had metal shavings in it. I cleaned it and tried to put it on, never was able to. Returned it, got a replacement unit and again, very suspicious looking thread. I was able to put that one on, but I'll probably change it early. Now the mobil 1 5w30 synthetic oil is great, how can they make two products with such a varying degree of quality?

    Considering the mobil 1 oil filter is $11, I guess I'll go back to AC Delco. $3.25 and better mechanical construction. I dont know if the m1 filters better, but not impressed. The K&N filter is $15.00 and that is just not warranted. What else is there?

    Bosch? Haven't tried them yet. Fram? I must say I dont like them too much. I did try the Fram Tough Guard (not the one with the teflon additive, that's snake oil to me) but the coating bubbled and became brittle. I removed it promptly. I will disect it at some point to see what the filter looks like.

    Any other brand?

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I don't know if Mobil actually makes the Mobil 1 filter. They might have a filter-maker produce it to their specs (but I don't actually know). You might try the ACDelco Ultraguard if you can still find it. I got a few of those Fram filters with the grippy texture for my wife's car because the filter is sideways and points to the back of the car, so it's hard to reach. The grippy material bubbles and flakes off just like you said. So it's worthless for making removal easier. I think Fram is pretty much crap. When I use up my Ultraguards, I'll just go back to the Duraguard filter. They seem ok to me.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If you have a Classic and have replaced the front struts on the car, this question is for you.

    Have you had to replace more than just the strut cartridge itself? The mechanic told me I may need a "mounting kit" for the struts that replaces the top and bottom connections of the strut to the car(I think).

    I do not understand exactly what he is talking about. Could someone just tell me if they have had to do this and at what mialge point. My 95 has about 77k on it. Does this sound right at all to you guys?

    Remember me, the one with the pivoting wheels story.
  • I had some front struts put in about 2 months ago, around 75K in my 96 Classic. I bought KYB GR2's form, also got new KYB boots for them too. My buddy is the manager at a Midas and they put them in for me for $30 per side. He didn't mention anything addition being needed, he would of told me if there was.

    I recommend the KYB struts. Their Quality spes are higher than GM's.



  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    It could just be new rubber or urethane bushings. The struts probably mount to the body (on the upper side) with a rubber bushing on top and bottom. Just like the rubber bushings in the suspension, they can get sort of old and crumbly. The bottom of the strut probably does not have any bushings. Just two large bolts. I can't see why those would need replacing. If you have questions, though, ask the guy what exactly will come in a kit, and how much extra it will cost. Don't accept vague answers from him. You might even ask him, or him have a mechanic, show you on your car what it is that needs to be replaced. This way you can see what it is and what condition it is in.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I just replaced struts in August with monroes on my 95. The mechanic checked the bushings and said they were fine. I replaced my struts at 100k.
  • Does any one use synthetic oil in their Aurora, I have a 99 with 54,000 miles and am thinking about using synthetic oil. Would there be any problems or concerns?
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    I got my 98 2 years ago with 34,000 miles on it. I immediatly switched to Mobil 1. I now have 115,00 miles on it with no problems or excessive oil consumption. The only items replaced so far, fuel pressure regulator, tires, belts. Radiator repaired and still working.
  • I switched to Mobil 1 at 1400 miles, and have had no oil consumption or oil related problems so far (30,000 miles). 2K1 3.5L V6.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Synthetic flows better at start up and protects the car. Especially in cold. What little that does burn leaves little to no deposits either. It doesn't lose it's viscosity much. I think the Aurora V8 deserves it.

    Not all synthetics are equal though. Mobile 1 and AMSOIL (not in stores) seem to be the best.

    Here is a good article on oil.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I just put some headlamp shields on my car. So far, they are still wet behind them, so they don't look that great. However, they should be pretty hard to notice once they are dry. I got them from this place.

    They also have bumper, hood, and mirror protectors. I'm not sure that I'd want to do that though. I wonder how you get it off, and what it would look like with it on there. The headlight pieces fit fairly well, but they aren't a perfect cut for the lamp. If they are lined up perfectly on two sides, then there is about a 1/4" gap on the other two. No biggie on the lamps, but it might be wierd on paint.

    What I noticed while prepping to put them on was that in just under a year my headlights have accumulated more than a few little dings. I guess I should have gotten these things sooner. I keep the lamps clean, and use rubber/vinyl protectants on them to protect them from UV/yellowing. However, it didn't protect them from stones...

    Hmm... Now that I'm looking at their website (I ordered them through another company that buys from them) they have much much better directions than came with the protectors. That sort of pisses me off. It would have gone much easier if I'd known that. The seconds headlight went much better than the first (the fogs were a cinch) so if one looks bad I'm going to be a bit annoyed that the directions were so terse.

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I finally got the lab results from the last oil sample I sent in. This sample is for using an AC Delco duraguard filter. I think it's about $3.50. So now I have results for using a Mobil 1 filter and a much cheaper Delco filter. I used Mobil 1 oil for both tests. The firs one was with the old formula and the second one was too. Here are the results:


    Mobil 1 filter - 4 ppm (2955 miles on oil)
    Delco filter - 1 ppm (3115 miles on oil)

    Wear Metal (iron)

    Mobil 1 filter - 14 ppm
    Delco filter - 4 ppm

    Wear Metal (aluminum)

    Mobil 1 filter - 1 ppm
    Delco filter - 1 ppm

    Wear Metal (copper)

    Mobil 1 filter - 1 ppm
    Delco filter - 1 ppm

    Other metals were all zero for both.

    So, I would not say that a Delco is better, but perhaps there is really no difference. The M1 filters are really expensive, so maybe a simple Delco is indeed just as good. The only thing different is that the Delco filter was tested with a slightly dirtier (thus more efficient) filter, but I doubt this makes much difference as a K&N starts out around 97% and finishes in the 99's - when it's really dirty. It's not that dirty even now. I'm also assuming the driving over 3000 miles averaged out to similar conditions for both. This is certainly not scientific, but still interesting.

    What's cool is that I got these labs done for free through a local dealer that works a lot with POST labs.

    It's also important to note that the results for both are really low in the "dirt" and "wear metal" categories. They said they like to see dirt < 19 ppm and the iron can be anywhere from 50 to 100 ppm and still be normal. Even factoring for the fact the the Aurora's 8 quarts dilute the concentrations, the numbers are really low.

    Anyway, I'm still sold on M1 oil for the reasons mentioned in other posts. I guess I could do the same comparison with regular oil, but the regular stuff does burn a little bit more in my car. The M1 hardly burns at all.
  • My '95 had the 3-M "clear bra" on it when I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. It really looked nice, and since I bought it in Colorado (stone chip heaven in winter) I was really glad it was there. I moved to California 2 years ago, and the clear bra started to get really cloudy looking, and water spots would not come off. I ended up pealing it off, what a mess!! Part of the paint on the front bumper came off with the "protectant", and I still have lines on the hood where the material ended. I would not recommend this product to anyone. It may be fine for the headlight protection, but don't put it on the painted surfaces.
    I did call 3M for assistance, but since I was not the original purchaser, about all they could help with was removal suggestions.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the info. The product the company I bought from actually a 3M film. The company just cuts it to fit various cars. It was hard to imagine it coming off very well, or the paint not looking different underneath. I'm sure it would be nice not to get paint chips on the front, but I don't know that layering the paint with a plastic is the answer.
  • I recall driving into the mountains just west of Denver in late winter. There was no snow. My car was assailed by grit particles blowing off the canyon sides as a gale force wind funneled through. No "bra" will deal with that kind of onslaught -- one needs a cocoon or a Hummer!

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I asked the lab some questions. They said that their analysis is for particles 10 microns and smaller - that is smaller than what the M1 or the typical Delco filter will catch. I guess in theory The M1 could be still doing a better job in that 10 to 20 or 25 micron range (I think the Delco is pretty efficient down to 20 or 25 whereas the M1 is to 10 microns) and the "dirt" reading would not show it.

    However, the wear metals (basically the iron) was really low (even lower for the Delco) and the lab acknowledged that it is probably a pretty good indicator of how much dirt there is of any size. Since the wear was so low with the Delco filter, I guess it still seems that it will do as good of a job as the M1 filter for your car.

    I know this was only 1 test for each filter, but it is still some sort of look as to what is going on.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I ran across this page that originally authored by someone who actually went out and bought a bunch of oil filters from local stores, cut them apart, and took a look at the quality and construction of each. His results are interesting -- especially the revelations concerning whos filters are actually clones of other manufacturers.
    See an archived copy of the results here.

    I guess I wont be buying any more Frams!

    Note: I don't know when this article was written, and don't know the author -- it just struck me as being well-written and fairly unbiased.
  • Good evening all. Am posting message for hubby.
    Any idea where we can locate a shop or repair
    manual for our 1996 Aurora? We've checked e-bay.
    Oldsmobile wants $120 for one. We just bought
    this vehicle and now we're too poor to pay that!
    Any assistance would be appreciated.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    so you might try scrolling back some. However, I think Ebay is the best place to find one. You just might have to wait a little until one shows up. I paid the $120, though, and have to say it is worth every penny. They have a ton of information in them.
  • .....and I paid $110 for my 2-volume set on E-Bay. If your dealer only wants $120 for a brand-new set, I would go for it.

  • I got one for my 96 off ebay for $65. Brand new, two volumes of GM Issue. Just wait for one on ebay, they come and go often.

  • Thank you everyone. We'll check ebay. And
    thank you for all the good info on this site.
    We sat here for 4 hours and read everything
    before we purchased the vehicle! You were a
    BIG help.

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    Picked up two front struts from Checker auto parts for 64.00 a piece (Monroe sensatracs new version) along with a spring compressor. Spent about one hour on first strut and 40 minutes on the second strut. TIP, get some chalk to mark the spring and the bearing plate on a line that will match up to some thing like the flange on the old and new strut, while it was apart I greased the bearings in the bearing plate. BE CAREFULL when you pull the plate apart. a towel to catch bearings when some of the small balls go flying is good. I always run max camber which isn't that much on the sensatracs. I also put athe cars screw jack securely under the rotor to keep it steady and replaced one of the outer tie rod ends which had a tear in the boot. I hate not being able to grease those fittings so on went the napa end with a grease fitting! Car rides much better now. I'm thinking of using the machine shop at work to make a shock tower brace like I did for the turbo eclipse I had previously. P.S. the car didn't even need to be aligned after putting on the new struts, Although I did use a bubble level to make sure the camber was even from side to side.
  • I am always interested in what you say. I use Mobil 1. Have you ever heard of Royal Purple motor oil? If so, what is your take?

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I never heard of it. All I really know is from that oil article I've posted a link to in the past.

    The biggest thing to me is that synthetics (if you got a good one) are certainly superior to the regular stuff especially for cold starts, not giving up protection under high stress, not burning off as much and leaving little/no deposits behind when they do burn.

    It seems that M1 and AMSOIL make superior synthetics, and some other synthetics don't seem to deliver. Just because it is synthetic doesn't mean it's much better than regular oil.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    Anyone else done this?
    I screwed up and dumped $25 of "regular" 87 octane gas into my '95 a few days ago. I really expected to notice some serious problems with acceleration and maybe even hear some pinging.
    Strangely enough, the car runs *smoother* if anything and I haven't noticed any difference in performance.
    It seems to me that if there's no harm, then saving $0.20 a gallon would be nice.
    So --- has anyone else run lower octane gas, long term in their Aurora? Have any comments?
  • I have a 96 which I have been running 87 octane fuel 90% of the time for about 9 months. (25,000 miles). About every 10 fills I put in either a 91 or higher octane. The knock sensor which is located under the intake manifold will detect any difference and signal the pcm to make the appropriate adjustments. Besides the service engine light coming on once in a while because of the the incorrect octane used I notice no difference in performance or any engine knock that could be attributed to combustion.In fact in the service manual I have there are 2 sections where octane is mentioned for the 4L. One recommends no less than 87 and the other says 91.I have 120,000 miles on this lovely and she purrs as smooth and quiet as can be.
  • I was lead to believe by some car nuts i hang around with, that as the temps get cooler, the car does fine on lower octane. These are guys runnig performance cars, Camaros etc . . and in the dead heat of summer, the higher the octane the better - Ive even gone goofy and used 94 a few times when it was stinkin warm . ..

    Also, Royal Purple is the high end of motor oils - a few of them run it in their high h.p cars - truly, for ours - if you stick with good change intervals, you can run almost any major brand oil. The secret is regular changes - and if you are afraid of trouble - get an analysis of your ooil done to see how it performed. Wanna read more - or maybe - one of them will work . .
    perpare to be bored.

    And lastly = speaking of oil - since mine leaks so much, i dont change it as often, since im always adding new quarts - :(( BUT - my oil life indicator is telling me to change the stuff now - and i want to reset it - (my SSEi was simple, 2 buttons)
    How do I reset that part of the system?

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    On my car, you just get the display to the "Oil Life" display. Then press and hold "Reset".

    Royal Purple always seemed a little weird to me. I just stick with Mobil 1. I would also probably still go with the oil change interval even if you add oil. The filter will still need to be changed, and the oil change intervals are fairly long (mine's at 38% oil life and I changed it over 5,000 miles ago).
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I know that in higher elevations (4000 or 5000 ft), gas is sold with lower octane than that for people down lower like in Indiana (500 to 700 ft). My understanding has always been that that is because the thinner air up at 5000 ft (air is less dense and there is also less atmospheric pressure to "push" it into the intake) is less likely to pre-ignite (knock) because the air/fuel mixture it is less dense and is less dense as the cylinder compresses it. Hence the lower octane. I'd expect the colder air to work better with the high octane and warm air (less dense) to be able to get by on lower octane for the same reasons. I could be totally wrong, but my guess is that it's the other way around from the way you described.

    I always just use the Amoco or Shell 93. I guess I kind of buy into the "cleaner gas" less deposits thing. I could be wasting my money though.

    Yep - on the classic you just hold the "reset" button. That's it.

    Interesting note - That article I mentioned (way back) about the magazine test of the new 350Z - they put 100 octane in it and dyno tested it. They previously had "crummy" 91 in it for earlier dyno tests. It didn't add much power at all. Just 3 or 4 HP and it was just at the very top of the rpm band.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    When driving a Classis I can tell the difference between regular and premium gas in the car. When hitting the gas with 87 the car just does not respond as well. Between silver and preimum I did not notice a lot of diffrence. There was no difference for me between the 91 and the 93 Shell gas.

    Personal observations,

This discussion has been closed.