Just to let everyone know, I got the problem fixed. I had to bring the car up to the dealership to have its temperature taken. (yes, you read that right)
The tech said that they first needed to confirm that the car had a cold. Ah, I mean running a temperature. Woops, I meant running cold. They took the car's temp with a laser thermometer.
After confirming that the car was running cold, it was a simple replacement of the thermostat. I think the thing was not closing properly.
I originally posted this in problems and solutions, but i think it fits better here.
I have a 95 Aurora. I was cleaning the interior and got some window cleaner on my gear shift selector. This faded the color and now it looks horrible. My interior is Beige. Does anyone know how to repair this or is there a place that anyone knows to by aftermarkets for the Aurora. Also does anyone know how to get behind the clear window in front of the guages. Mine is dirty and I would like to clean it up. I know this is really small stuff , but we all know that small details is what seperates a good car from a great car.
I think the only way to fix the discolored trim is to replace it. I don't know that you could re-color it. You could try to buy an interior paint, but that probably won't match perfectly either. And it isn't quite clear what you faded. The lettering? The surround? The actual shifter? What sort of window cleaner were you using that would do that?
If you want to clean behind the gauge shield, you will have to remove it. You should probably get a service manual to guide you in doing that.
I've taken my gauge shield out before and I really don't think you need a manual, all you have to do is pop out the Sentinel Light panel out, then pop out panel that has the Fuel and Trunk buttons.
Then pop out the shield that hangs around the gauges, that also has the buttons for the Fog Lights and Power Mirror controls.
Then just start taking out all the screws from there on. That's it.
I've taken the clear lens out too. If you do this, just put in a new one. The original probably has scratches. You can get a new one from the dealer for $12 or $13.
However, my job did not go as easy as Javi's. First, those two little panels do pop out, but 2 of the little clips that hold it into place went flying and I had to take more things apart just to get them. When I pulled the upper crescent panel out (the one with the SES and traction light) one of the main fastening tabs broke off. I really began to get nervous. Luckily I epoxied the tab back on and it was as good as new and all went back together, but it was no fun at all.
Suggestion - get some extra metal clips for the little panels - just in case. Also, it was easier to get everything back together with the panel around the radio removed. It pops out too.
Don't have a dealer do it. They will charge you $60+ to have some goober leave a finger print on the inside of the lens.
Thanks for the help with the guage sheild guys. I didnt want to start popping things off without any knowledge of what to expect. I think I can handle it now.
rjs- It is the actual leather on the shifter that faded. It happened a few years ago , but i dont remenber the product name.( all i know is that i threw it in the garbage afterwards)
The dealer may sell a new leather piece that goes over the shifter. Not sure. A good upholstery shop may be able to re-do it, or maybe you could get the leather cover off a junk car. Just some thoughts.
I followed the suggestions of "javidogg" and "Garnes", and was able to remove the clear plastic cover in minutes (losing only one screw in the process). Thanks, fellows. Garnes was right, though, the term "clear" did not apply any more, in spite of using every cleaning agent known to Man, so I ordered a replacement at $16.60, a very reasonable price. I also tested all the instrument bulbs and replaced a couple of them.
Yep. It's just a clear piece of cheap plastic. It scratches so easy it isn't funny. Don't use paper towels on it.
That's all the dealer charged me. It's worth replacing if it's all scratchy. It brings back that new look. I replaced the plastic panel over the radio too because the previous owner had a cell phone holder on it. That was $25.
When I acquired my '95 Aurora it had the usual scuff marks, worn shifter handle, etc..
Most craft stores, e.g. Michael's, have a rack of plastic bottles of acrylic paint. The ones I used were 2 oz Delta Ceramcoat. Take a colored part with you to the store (for example, the plastic fuse cover at the end of the dash next to the driver's door) and compare it with the wide selection offered. I have a dark blue interior, a color which was bracketed by Adriatic Blue and Dark Night Blue. One or two attempts at blending and testing on the plastic cover yielded a perfect match, for a total outlay of about $7. Always let the paint dry before concluding you have this match. I painted several parts, including the gearshift, and have difficulty finding where I did the touchups.
Dark colors are probably easier than light. The parchment color so common in Auroras may be the most difficult, but by no means impossible.
Thanks for the tip. That sounds interesting. I have a couple of areas (the front edge of the console next to the cup holder, for one) where the paint has worn off a little. I just thought I'd either have to get it painted one day or replaced all together. I'll give it a shot.
BTW, I have the tan/parchment/whateveryoucallit interior color on my '95, so we'll see how difficult it really is.
Early magazine reviews of the Aurora sometimes mentioned that, for a large car, the interior did not offer "much room". GM may have selected that color name to offset this!
After rebuilding computer (software from a computer expo WIPED system)! I see some threads on interiors. I rejuvenated the mushroom color on my seats with 8 ounce fabrique colors from Michaels crafts. I don't remember the exact combo because the mix is in a different container somewhere in the garage but it was a cinnamon color and a cream color. I rubbed it in with my fingers and did about five very light coats, the leather looks original, feels original, and has the same gloss and feel as original. I experimented on a old chair in the house and discovered you can add a LITTLE of their glaze for a glossier look. Its been on about 3months now. Be sure of course to degrease the leather first. The chair in the house had cracks I used latex wood crack filler on, so far so good! (2 monthes).
I decided to check the throttle opening while I was under the hood. To my suprise the cable still had a inch of travel when I held the cam at the wide open position on the throttle body. I went to home Depot thids afternoon and got a 3/4 inch long nylon spacer. I cut a slit into the spacer and popped it onto the front of the accelerator pedal between the end of the cable and where it nests into the pedal. Now the cam on the throttle body is so close to the stop that it grabs a piece of paper lightly, before it wasn't even close.
Then you should be fine, in my case the throttle cable appears to have been replaced very early in the cars life and the cable is a little to long, it wasn't letting the throttle open more than about 65-70 percent. There was a significat gap between the throttle stop and the throttle lever (cam) when the pedal was pressed to the floor. It could have just stretched, but I noticed when I got the car with 34,000 miles on it that the throttle cable looked newer (cleaner) than the other hoses etc. The spacer pulls the cable out from the front of the pedal effectively shortening it to the proper length. I made sure the cable wasn't tight at wide open throttle and not strained.
Has anyone found a paint that can be used on the plastic part of the steering wheel? Mine is coming off, especiallly where I rest my fingure on the wheel.
I have the "mushroom" interior on my 1995 Classic.
I have your same color interior on my 95. I had numerous spots on the interior on my dash, steering wheel plastic, cup holder, and gear shifter. I used Delta Creamcoat acrylic fabric paint. I got it at a craft store. Its in the little 2oz bottles on a rack. I used the colors listed below to get an exact match for both shades of the mushroom color that are in our interiors. IVORY-BLACK-SPICETAN-AUTUMN BROWN-CANDY BAR BROWN....It will take a lot of mixing to get the correct color , but once you start doing it you will be able to figure it out. just keep mixing. This is how I remember getting the color.
1. First mix a lot of IVORY and BLACK so that you start with at least 1oz of grey. 2. Then add SPICETAN and AUTUMN BROWN a little at a time. Then start using the CHOCOLATE BROWN and it should start taking form.
My mixing chart is just my fuzzy memory. It took me a lot of mixing to get it to match and about 3 trips to the store. Once you start mixing you will see what you need to add or take away. The colors have no signifigance I just listed them all because somehow these came together to match the interior color perfectly. You just have to adjust the color slightly for the two shades of the interior. I painted my entire leather shifter and it looks perfect. I hope this helps some of you guys It took me a long time to match my interior and it really improves the look of your car to get rid of little blemishes.
another tip: I remember using the CHOCOLATE BROWN last. It ended up being the magic color that gave it that not so beige look. Use more of it for the part of the interior that is a little darker.
Can anyone tell me where the grease zerks are in the front end of my 95 Aurora? I know there should be a few at the tierod ends, but I can't get a good view of how to get to them. I fear that the rack and pinion 'creaking' might be due to neglecting to grease the tierods.
General question - how long before you should change the belts and hoses? I've always thought after 5 years it's time to do this, but I wonder with the probable advancement in materials. Also, if the belts "looks really good" at 5 years, is another 1 or 2 years ok?
I would like to hear your experiences and opinions.
I think I paid $20 for the serpentine belt, and $10 for the water pump belt. I changed 'em with 40k miles on it, right after I got the car (it had sat on the lot for nearly a year). I'll change 'em again at 80k. It's cheap insurance - I will be WAY MORE INCONVENIENCED than $30 if a belt breaks while I am driving somewhere.
Hoses? Different issue. I think that's a lot less prevalent of a failure than it used to be. I've not had a hose fail on a modern-era (1990-up) car I've driven (and I usually drive my cars 5 years and 75-100k mi in that time).
garnes: I agree with hammen2's observations. I have been pleasantly surprised at the longevity of radiator hoses. For example, when I sold my '86 V6 Fiero in 2000 with well over 100 000 miles, it still had the original radiator hoses and they still looked and felt like new. I had bought a complete set of replacements (5 hoses since the Fiero's radiator is in front with engine in the rear) but never needed to use them. The small throttle body coolant hoses may not last as long.
I think I remember someone recently posting that his Aurora accesory belt had lasted over 100k miles and was still in good shape. Longevity here may depend a lot on precise alignment of all the pulleys involved (crankshaft, power steering, a/c, alternator, and tensioner).
I'm really pleased that GM put the water pump on a separate belt. With only the one serpentine belt arrangement that many cars have, you're SOL when that belt goes. In the old days many cars had two, three, or even four belts to drive the water pump. If one failed, you would lose some accesory, but not the water pump.
I replaced my water pump belt and tensioner at about 80k miles. The belt was beginning to lose a lot of rubber (powder, not chunks). I have had tensioners go bad on other vehicles, so I replaced my Aurora's for insurance. The belt was quite easy to replace once I realized that the tensioner had to be removed; it was easy too, with only two easily accessible bolts holding it in place.
I bought a replacement accessory belt and tensioner at the same time, but have not replaced them yet. Two reasons -- the belt looks to be in great shape, and I am a bit intimidated to attempt the replacement as access looks quite limited.
hammen2: Did you replace your serpentine belt yourself? If so, what was your experience? Do you have any advice for me and other DIYers?
Yesterday, I took my '02 Aurora in to the dealership for a growling A/C fan motor. Bad Motor. N/C. Also has them to deal with the recall on the re-program of PCM. N/C. Also had the Intermediate Steering Shaft lubed. N/C. But as Paul Harvey would say " Here's the rest of the story".
The also found below the throttle body and back near the firewall a RODENT'S NEST !!!!! I stick my head under the hood once a week to check levels but have never seen this. The car is garaged at night but I work at the city limits which is kinda out in the country.
Question is: Did this happen at: HOME ?? WORK ?? OTHER ??
In summary... Fan motor- N/C Reprogram- N/C ISS lube- N/C Rodents nest-priceless
I guess the fan growling noise could have been the rodent??
I wouldn't think a rodent would build a nest there if it were a daily driver. I mean, doesn't it take a few days to build the thing?
I don't think that reprogram did anything. I still hear that misfire sort of sound sometimes when the car does its cold-start/high-idle thing. But it really wasn't a problem before.
I finally went ahead a couple weeks ago and replaced the serpentine belt myself. There was about 125,000 miles on the serpentine belt and the white cord was peeking through the top of the belt although the cords were not frayed. The ribbed side of the belt looked brand new, no cracks evident and no glazing. I replaced the water pump myself last week but not the belt yet. The water pump belt looks like it could pass for new. The water pump didn't want to unclock but a little application (don't want to crack the aluminum!) of heat from heat gun to the outside housing it turns onto and the tabs slipped out from the housing. It took me longer to find a quarter inch adapter to rotate the tensioner out of the way than it did to replace the pump. The serpentine belt took a half hour because I turned the belt sideways to slip past the tensioner pully the wrong direction and got it stuck until I walked away for a minute, went I went back it slipped right out. less than ten minutes to put it on the right way and another five minutes to put the four plastic anchors back that hold the plasticized cardboard splash shield over the pulleys on the bottom of the engine. P.S. As I stated before, some of the used Auroras I looked at had belts that were in very poor condition with less than 80,000 miles on them. One had a sepentine belt that was chewed up with ~60,000 miles on the car and I firmly believe that the pullys were not in optimum alignment. I had a Vollkswagon a few years ago that right from new chewed up its belts
I took the car to a couple of ex-German dealership mechanics who were direct from Germany. When I complained about changing belts every 50,000 miles, Mr. Hans (that was how the egomaniac demandede to be adressed, and if you didn't want to be tossed out on your ear you would never refer to him as a mechanic, He was a TECHNICIAN with the capitals in his voice as he corrected the unfortunate and possibly ex customer.) simply looked at me like I had complained that the car would get wet when I left it out in the rain! He once rolled his eyes and explained to a woman who had come back after her door handle had apparently broke again ( there was no such word as broke in his vocabulary) that he HAD explained that the car was balanced. As I looked on in fascination she blurted out in puzzlement, Balanced? That was the opening he must have known he'd get. Balanced! The car is made up of a balance of parts working together. You have overextended the handle again. The customer... But all I did was... Hans, Fraulien I have tried to explain that this is not the car you must have been used to treating with der neglect. THIS car is not made out of crude chunks of inferior treated metal. Give me the keys and I will see if I can correct your problem agaaaain. Customer drops keys Hans rolls eyes, Nicht Gut! Customer flees leaving keys on floor by counter where she dropped them. The three years I went there I never once heard his partner speak. His partner caught me peeking through into the shop floor once as he was working on a car. He carefully wiped down the tool he was using, set it aside, turned in my direction and scowled out at me until I gave up and turned away. I could see him pick the tool back up and watch me until I sat back down again. He nodded in satisfaction and went back to his work!
mike98c, What tool did you use to extract the water pump? I have seen several models costing from about $25 to $150. I have never been able to get an answer to my question "Is the special tool REQUIRED to do the job, or does it simply make the job easier?"
My mechanic tried to replace mine without the tool. Eventually he just brought the tool. Is it impossible without the tool. Nothing is impossible for an Aurorian. Should you buy the tool? Work smarter not harder.
Bought from Red Rooster auto parts. Lisle was the brand, it cost $24.99. The flanges on the big socket makes it look like a oddly shaped hole saw. The flanges mate with extensions that stick up on water pump impeller unit and push the little tongues that slide under notches in the case that the impeller fits into out from under into the spaces between the notches. I can't see getting enough torque on the extensions to force out the tongues from under the grooves without the tool. I think Red Rooster would have rented the socket but for the probable price difference between renting and buying, I figured I might as well just buy the thing. Also window in back last week went down but would'nt go up so I finally got around to disconnecting switch and useing jumper from battery to power window back up uintil I get a replacement switch.
Thanks for the information. I have seen the Lisle tool and will likely buy it now. My '97 does not show any signs of water pump problem at 92,000 miles, but I like to have spares on hand for items like this. I bought an AC Delco replacement water pump cartridge a few months ago for about $50. The Kent Moore tool is about $150, which is too much for me; it looks like it's built like an Abrams tank. The Lisle version looks like stamped steel which should be fine for occasional use.
Mike Which switch are you having problems with? My driver's side rear window has refused to go up/down on occasion and neither the driver's switches or the rear door window switch will make it move. I was assuming that it was a connection directly to the motor. (or the motor itself.) But your message suggests (to me anyway) that it may be one of the window switches causing the entire problem. Am I understanding you correctly? Which switch was the culprit? Thanks, Jim
The window on the rear passenger side will go down but not up. I could here the clicking from the motor relay when the front or rear switch for window down was pressed but nothing when the switches for up where pressed so I knew the motor was okay, The way the switches are wired the polarity is swirtched to drive the motor up and then down. The positive becomes negative ground and the negative becomes positive, The rear passenger switch in my case has white corrosion. I could clean off the corrosion but I can see that major pitting has occured on the contacts so I might as well replace the switch. The rear passenger switch appears to be the main junction for all the switches, not the bank of four switches on the front drivers side as you might expect.
I used two Meguiar's products from their Detailer line. The first was All Purpose Cleaner Plus, which I used to clean. I used it diluted at 8:1. I then coated the plastic liners with their Engine Kote product. It gives a nice durable shell to plastics. These are also a bang up combo on engines. I posted some shots of my sister's Bonneville engine bay I cleaned up with them (it's posted in the Bonneville forum).
Thank you. I've been racking my brain all day trying to remember the answer to aurora5000's trivia question. Even had my wife going nuts trying to think of it....
Now I can once again impress her with my superior knowledge and brain power!
Comments
The tech said that they first needed to confirm that the car had a cold. Ah, I mean running a temperature. Woops, I meant running cold. They took the car's temp with a laser thermometer.
After confirming that the car was running cold, it was a simple replacement of the thermostat. I think the thing was not closing properly.
Henri
I have a 95 Aurora. I was cleaning the interior and got some window cleaner on my gear shift selector. This faded the color and now it looks horrible. My interior is Beige.
Does anyone know how to repair this or is there a place that anyone knows to by aftermarkets for the Aurora.
Also does anyone know how to get behind the clear window in front of the guages. Mine is dirty and I would like to clean it up. I know this is really small stuff , but we all know that small details is what seperates a good car from a great car.
Thanks for any help Aurorians.
If you want to clean behind the gauge shield, you will have to remove it. You should probably get a service manual to guide you in doing that.
Then pop out the shield that hangs around the gauges, that also has the buttons for the Fog Lights and Power Mirror controls.
Then just start taking out all the screws from there on. That's it.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
However, my job did not go as easy as Javi's. First, those two little panels do pop out, but 2 of the little clips that hold it into place went flying and I had to take more things apart just to get them. When I pulled the upper crescent panel out (the one with the SES and traction light) one of the main fastening tabs broke off. I really began to get nervous. Luckily I epoxied the tab back on and it was as good as new and all went back together, but it was no fun at all.
Suggestion - get some extra metal clips for the little panels - just in case. Also, it was easier to get everything back together with the panel around the radio removed. It pops out too.
Don't have a dealer do it. They will charge you $60+ to have some goober leave a finger print on the inside of the lens.
rjs- It is the actual leather on the shifter that
faded. It happened a few years ago , but i dont remenber the product name.( all i know is that i threw it in the garbage afterwards)
That's all the dealer charged me. It's worth replacing if it's all scratchy. It brings back that new look. I replaced the plastic panel over the radio too because the previous owner had a cell phone holder on it. That was $25.
Most craft stores, e.g. Michael's, have a rack of plastic bottles of acrylic paint. The ones I used were 2 oz Delta Ceramcoat. Take a colored part with you to the store (for example, the plastic fuse cover at the end of the dash next to the driver's door) and compare it with the wide selection offered. I have a dark blue interior, a color which was bracketed by Adriatic Blue and Dark Night Blue. One or two attempts at blending and testing on the plastic cover yielded a perfect match, for a total outlay of about $7. Always let the paint dry before concluding you have this match. I painted several parts, including the gearshift, and have difficulty finding where I did the touchups.
Dark colors are probably easier than light. The parchment color so common in Auroras may be the most difficult, but by no means impossible.
BTW, I have the tan/parchment/whateveryoucallit interior color on my '95, so we'll see how difficult it really is.
Mcclearyfl: You mean "..to coincide with", I'm sure.
You really have to get underneath the Aurora to change them little 893 lightbulbs.
I had to replace both at the same time, even though I only had to replace my right one.
I did that because, they say if you just change the burned out, the new one might look brighter.
I had GE light bulbs, Originals that came with my Aurora when I bought it, about 13 months ago.
I decided to replace them with Sylvanias lightbulbs, I think they should be okay.
Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I have the "mushroom" interior on my 1995 Classic.
Thanks,
Henri
1. First mix a lot of IVORY and BLACK so that you start with at least 1oz of grey.
2. Then add SPICETAN and AUTUMN BROWN a little at a time. Then start using the CHOCOLATE BROWN and it should start taking form.
My mixing chart is just my fuzzy memory. It took me a lot of mixing to get it to match and about 3 trips to the store. Once you start mixing you will see what you need to add or take away. The colors have no signifigance I just listed them all because somehow these came together to match the interior color perfectly. You just have to adjust the color slightly for the two shades of the interior. I painted my entire leather shifter and it looks perfect. I hope this helps some of you guys It took me a long time to match my interior and it really improves the look of your car to get rid of little blemishes.
another tip: I remember using the CHOCOLATE BROWN last. It ended up being the magic color that gave it that not so beige look. Use more of it for the part of the interior that is a little darker.
I would like to hear your experiences and opinions.
Thanks.
Hoses? Different issue. I think that's a lot less prevalent of a failure than it used to be. I've not had a hose fail on a modern-era (1990-up) car I've driven (and I usually drive my cars 5 years and 75-100k mi in that time).
--Robert
I agree with hammen2's observations. I have been pleasantly surprised at the longevity of radiator hoses. For example, when I sold my '86 V6 Fiero in 2000 with well over 100 000 miles, it still had the original radiator hoses and they still looked and felt like new. I had bought a complete set of replacements (5 hoses since the Fiero's radiator is in front with engine in the rear) but never needed to use them. The small throttle body coolant hoses may not last as long.
I think I remember someone recently posting that his Aurora accesory belt had lasted over 100k miles and was still in good shape. Longevity here may depend a lot on precise alignment of all the pulleys involved (crankshaft, power steering, a/c, alternator, and tensioner).
I'm really pleased that GM put the water pump on a separate belt. With only the one serpentine belt arrangement that many cars have, you're SOL when that belt goes. In the old days many cars had two, three, or even four belts to drive the water pump. If one failed, you would lose some accesory, but not the water pump.
I replaced my water pump belt and tensioner at about 80k miles. The belt was beginning to lose a lot of rubber (powder, not chunks). I have had tensioners go bad on other vehicles, so I replaced my Aurora's for insurance. The belt was quite easy to replace once I realized that the tensioner had to be removed; it was easy too, with only two easily accessible bolts holding it in place.
I bought a replacement accessory belt and tensioner at the same time, but have not replaced them yet. Two reasons -- the belt looks to be in great shape, and I am a bit intimidated to attempt the replacement as access looks quite limited.
hammen2:
Did you replace your serpentine belt yourself? If so, what was your experience? Do you have any advice for me and other DIYers?
Also has them to deal with the recall on the re-program of PCM. N/C. Also had the Intermediate Steering Shaft lubed. N/C. But as Paul Harvey would say " Here's the rest of the story".
The also found below the throttle body and back near the firewall a RODENT'S NEST !!!!! I stick my head under the hood once a week to check levels but have never seen this. The car is garaged at night but I work at the city limits which is kinda out in the country.
Question is: Did this happen at:
HOME ??
WORK ??
OTHER ??
In summary...
Fan motor- N/C
Reprogram- N/C
ISS lube- N/C
Rodents nest-priceless
I guess the fan growling noise could have been the rodent??
Steve
I don't think that reprogram did anything. I still hear that misfire sort of sound sometimes when the car does its cold-start/high-idle thing. But it really wasn't a problem before.
Was the nest way out of the way?
Besides - the fiberglass-like stuff in his furry butt is probably punishment enough.
He once rolled his eyes and explained to a woman who had come back after her door handle had apparently broke again ( there was no such word as broke in his vocabulary) that he HAD explained that the car was balanced. As I looked on in fascination she blurted out in puzzlement, Balanced? That was the opening he must have known he'd get. Balanced! The car is made up of a balance of parts working together. You have overextended the handle again. The customer... But all I did was... Hans, Fraulien I have tried to explain that this is not the car you must have been used to treating with der neglect. THIS car is not made out of crude chunks of inferior treated metal. Give me the keys and I will see if I can correct your problem agaaaain. Customer drops keys Hans rolls eyes, Nicht Gut! Customer flees leaving keys on floor by counter where she dropped them.
The three years I went there I never once heard his partner speak. His partner caught me peeking through into the shop floor once as he was working on a car. He carefully wiped down the tool he was using, set it aside, turned in my direction and scowled out at me until I gave up and turned away. I could see him pick the tool back up and watch me until I sat back down again. He nodded in satisfaction and went back to his work!
What tool did you use to extract the water pump? I have seen several models costing from about $25 to $150. I have never been able to get an answer to my question "Is the special tool REQUIRED to do the job, or does it simply make the job easier?"
Henri
Also window in back last week went down but would'nt go up so I finally got around to disconnecting switch and useing jumper from battery to power window back up uintil I get a replacement switch.
Thanks for the information. I have seen the Lisle tool and will likely buy it now. My '97 does not show any signs of water pump problem at 92,000 miles, but I like to have spares on hand for items like this. I bought an AC Delco replacement water pump cartridge a few months ago for about $50. The Kent Moore tool is about $150, which is too much for me; it looks like it's built like an Abrams tank. The Lisle version looks like stamped steel which should be fine for occasional use.
Which switch are you having problems with? My driver's side rear window has refused to go up/down on occasion and neither the driver's switches or the rear door window switch will make it move. I was assuming that it was a connection directly to the motor. (or the motor itself.)
But your message suggests (to me anyway) that it may be one of the window switches causing the entire problem.
Am I understanding you correctly? Which switch was the culprit?
Thanks,
Jim
and the after:
Looking nice too.
Peace.
Now I can once again impress her with my superior knowledge and brain power!