By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The tech said that they first needed to confirm that the car had a cold. Ah, I mean running a temperature. Woops, I meant running cold. They took the car's temp with a laser thermometer.
After confirming that the car was running cold, it was a simple replacement of the thermostat. I think the thing was not closing properly.
Henri
I have a 95 Aurora. I was cleaning the interior and got some window cleaner on my gear shift selector. This faded the color and now it looks horrible. My interior is Beige.
Does anyone know how to repair this or is there a place that anyone knows to by aftermarkets for the Aurora.
Also does anyone know how to get behind the clear window in front of the guages. Mine is dirty and I would like to clean it up. I know this is really small stuff , but we all know that small details is what seperates a good car from a great car.
Thanks for any help Aurorians.
If you want to clean behind the gauge shield, you will have to remove it. You should probably get a service manual to guide you in doing that.
Then pop out the shield that hangs around the gauges, that also has the buttons for the Fog Lights and Power Mirror controls.
Then just start taking out all the screws from there on. That's it.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
However, my job did not go as easy as Javi's. First, those two little panels do pop out, but 2 of the little clips that hold it into place went flying and I had to take more things apart just to get them. When I pulled the upper crescent panel out (the one with the SES and traction light) one of the main fastening tabs broke off. I really began to get nervous. Luckily I epoxied the tab back on and it was as good as new and all went back together, but it was no fun at all.
Suggestion - get some extra metal clips for the little panels - just in case. Also, it was easier to get everything back together with the panel around the radio removed. It pops out too.
Don't have a dealer do it. They will charge you $60+ to have some goober leave a finger print on the inside of the lens.
rjs- It is the actual leather on the shifter that
faded. It happened a few years ago , but i dont remenber the product name.( all i know is that i threw it in the garbage afterwards)
That's all the dealer charged me. It's worth replacing if it's all scratchy. It brings back that new look. I replaced the plastic panel over the radio too because the previous owner had a cell phone holder on it. That was $25.
Most craft stores, e.g. Michael's, have a rack of plastic bottles of acrylic paint. The ones I used were 2 oz Delta Ceramcoat. Take a colored part with you to the store (for example, the plastic fuse cover at the end of the dash next to the driver's door) and compare it with the wide selection offered. I have a dark blue interior, a color which was bracketed by Adriatic Blue and Dark Night Blue. One or two attempts at blending and testing on the plastic cover yielded a perfect match, for a total outlay of about $7. Always let the paint dry before concluding you have this match. I painted several parts, including the gearshift, and have difficulty finding where I did the touchups.
Dark colors are probably easier than light. The parchment color so common in Auroras may be the most difficult, but by no means impossible.
BTW, I have the tan/parchment/whateveryoucallit interior color on my '95, so we'll see how difficult it really is.
Mcclearyfl: You mean "..to coincide with", I'm sure.
You really have to get underneath the Aurora to change them little 893 lightbulbs.
I had to replace both at the same time, even though I only had to replace my right one.
I did that because, they say if you just change the burned out, the new one might look brighter.
I had GE light bulbs, Originals that came with my Aurora when I bought it, about 13 months ago.
I decided to replace them with Sylvanias lightbulbs, I think they should be okay.
Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I have the "mushroom" interior on my 1995 Classic.
Thanks,
Henri
1. First mix a lot of IVORY and BLACK so that you start with at least 1oz of grey.
2. Then add SPICETAN and AUTUMN BROWN a little at a time. Then start using the CHOCOLATE BROWN and it should start taking form.
My mixing chart is just my fuzzy memory. It took me a lot of mixing to get it to match and about 3 trips to the store. Once you start mixing you will see what you need to add or take away. The colors have no signifigance I just listed them all because somehow these came together to match the interior color perfectly. You just have to adjust the color slightly for the two shades of the interior. I painted my entire leather shifter and it looks perfect. I hope this helps some of you guys It took me a long time to match my interior and it really improves the look of your car to get rid of little blemishes.
another tip: I remember using the CHOCOLATE BROWN last. It ended up being the magic color that gave it that not so beige look. Use more of it for the part of the interior that is a little darker.
I would like to hear your experiences and opinions.
Thanks.
Hoses? Different issue. I think that's a lot less prevalent of a failure than it used to be. I've not had a hose fail on a modern-era (1990-up) car I've driven (and I usually drive my cars 5 years and 75-100k mi in that time).
--Robert
I agree with hammen2's observations. I have been pleasantly surprised at the longevity of radiator hoses. For example, when I sold my '86 V6 Fiero in 2000 with well over 100 000 miles, it still had the original radiator hoses and they still looked and felt like new. I had bought a complete set of replacements (5 hoses since the Fiero's radiator is in front with engine in the rear) but never needed to use them. The small throttle body coolant hoses may not last as long.
I think I remember someone recently posting that his Aurora accesory belt had lasted over 100k miles and was still in good shape. Longevity here may depend a lot on precise alignment of all the pulleys involved (crankshaft, power steering, a/c, alternator, and tensioner).
I'm really pleased that GM put the water pump on a separate belt. With only the one serpentine belt arrangement that many cars have, you're SOL when that belt goes. In the old days many cars had two, three, or even four belts to drive the water pump. If one failed, you would lose some accesory, but not the water pump.
I replaced my water pump belt and tensioner at about 80k miles. The belt was beginning to lose a lot of rubber (powder, not chunks). I have had tensioners go bad on other vehicles, so I replaced my Aurora's for insurance. The belt was quite easy to replace once I realized that the tensioner had to be removed; it was easy too, with only two easily accessible bolts holding it in place.
I bought a replacement accessory belt and tensioner at the same time, but have not replaced them yet. Two reasons -- the belt looks to be in great shape, and I am a bit intimidated to attempt the replacement as access looks quite limited.
hammen2:
Did you replace your serpentine belt yourself? If so, what was your experience? Do you have any advice for me and other DIYers?
Also has them to deal with the recall on the re-program of PCM. N/C. Also had the Intermediate Steering Shaft lubed. N/C. But as Paul Harvey would say " Here's the rest of the story".
The also found below the throttle body and back near the firewall a RODENT'S NEST !!!!! I stick my head under the hood once a week to check levels but have never seen this. The car is garaged at night but I work at the city limits which is kinda out in the country.
Question is: Did this happen at:
HOME ??
WORK ??
OTHER ??
In summary...
Fan motor- N/C
Reprogram- N/C
ISS lube- N/C
Rodents nest-priceless
I guess the fan growling noise could have been the rodent??
Steve
I don't think that reprogram did anything. I still hear that misfire sort of sound sometimes when the car does its cold-start/high-idle thing. But it really wasn't a problem before.
Was the nest way out of the way?
Besides - the fiberglass-like stuff in his furry butt is probably punishment enough.
He once rolled his eyes and explained to a woman who had come back after her door handle had apparently broke again ( there was no such word as broke in his vocabulary) that he HAD explained that the car was balanced. As I looked on in fascination she blurted out in puzzlement, Balanced? That was the opening he must have known he'd get. Balanced! The car is made up of a balance of parts working together. You have overextended the handle again. The customer... But all I did was... Hans, Fraulien I have tried to explain that this is not the car you must have been used to treating with der neglect. THIS car is not made out of crude chunks of inferior treated metal. Give me the keys and I will see if I can correct your problem agaaaain. Customer drops keys Hans rolls eyes, Nicht Gut! Customer flees leaving keys on floor by counter where she dropped them.
The three years I went there I never once heard his partner speak. His partner caught me peeking through into the shop floor once as he was working on a car. He carefully wiped down the tool he was using, set it aside, turned in my direction and scowled out at me until I gave up and turned away. I could see him pick the tool back up and watch me until I sat back down again. He nodded in satisfaction and went back to his work!
What tool did you use to extract the water pump? I have seen several models costing from about $25 to $150. I have never been able to get an answer to my question "Is the special tool REQUIRED to do the job, or does it simply make the job easier?"
Henri
Also window in back last week went down but would'nt go up so I finally got around to disconnecting switch and useing jumper from battery to power window back up uintil I get a replacement switch.
Thanks for the information. I have seen the Lisle tool and will likely buy it now. My '97 does not show any signs of water pump problem at 92,000 miles, but I like to have spares on hand for items like this. I bought an AC Delco replacement water pump cartridge a few months ago for about $50. The Kent Moore tool is about $150, which is too much for me; it looks like it's built like an Abrams tank. The Lisle version looks like stamped steel which should be fine for occasional use.
Which switch are you having problems with? My driver's side rear window has refused to go up/down on occasion and neither the driver's switches or the rear door window switch will make it move. I was assuming that it was a connection directly to the motor. (or the motor itself.)
But your message suggests (to me anyway) that it may be one of the window switches causing the entire problem.
Am I understanding you correctly? Which switch was the culprit?
Thanks,
Jim
and the after:
Looking nice too.
Peace.
Now I can once again impress her with my superior knowledge and brain power!