Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

kayaman420

Henry I got a 95 and I have nothing like this showing up on my clearcoat. Sure I have the "normal" amount of micro scratches for a 10 year old car , but nothing that looks that bad. I try to wash by hand normally with a lambs wool mitten and when I wax I really only use meguires Gold Class. Just a regular liquid wax nothing fancy. Car looks spectacular when I finish.

 

My car is the dark green. What color is yours? Maybe it is a color specific problem.

rjs200240

I wasn't trying to say your car doesn't have clearcoat failure. But that swirl marks aren't really a sign of it. Those scratch marks or checking are. Are there any areas that it has blistered? If not, just try to keep it well protected and you might be able to slow the failure down.

 

I really doubt GM will replace it. The car is probably over 10 years old now. Paint will last or not last due mostly to how it is cared for. Even the most awesome paint, neglected or abused for 10 years, will fail. In fact, on used cars, I would bet that the prep some dealers do will substantially shorten the life of the paint. Some places buff the crap out of the paint without any regard for paint thickness or seeing how much they removed. This will definitely hasten clearcoat failure if they don't leave enough behind. I don't think it's a '95 vs '96 issue as much as how paint is cared for (not just car wash vs hand wash, but how often it has wax protection, how often it is in the sun, and what sort of polishing or buffing was done to it) and the fact that '95's are just older and thus had more exposure.

Henry

The car is not garaged. It is waxed regularly. It is not blistering anywhere.

95mushroom

pics would solve this :-)

redwingsfan

Recently had the battery on my 98 Aurora go out. Made a quick call to a Gemini (Goodyear) place and they ordered the replacement. Took a couple of days but I used that time to figure out how to get the back seat out and look over the venting system.

 

I had read some posts where the original equipment battery was 13 inches and the new ones were 12 so the vent tubes didn't fit. Evidently this was a second battery (I'm the second owner) and the first owner had taken the time to get the right vent tubes for the 12 inch battery.

 

I popped the dead battery out, replaced it with the new one and popped on the vent tubes. Replaced the rear seat and put my tools away in under 10 minutes. I was pretty happy with the result.

fulltwistingon

How do you replace a light on the steering wheel of a 2001 Olds Aurora that lights up the temperature control? Also, how do you replace a seat heater light located on the console? Thanks. Dave

javidogg

The lights on a 2001 Aurora, would be covered under your Warranty, it's electrical, so it should be covered.

I know must 2001 Aurora's out there got to have some type of Factory Warranty.

Javi.

sda

Good suggestion about the warranty, but if it's like mine with 72k, it would not apply. I would be interested, too, if these bulbs are replaceable. The top half of both steering wheel redundant controls bulbs are burned out, the bottom ones light. I also have a seat heater switch whose light is out, too. The buttons function fine, but the light(s) are out.

blk97aurora

Does anyone have experience with ceramic brake pads on their Aurora? Mine need to be replaced. Rock Auto's price for ACDelco NAO pads is $52 front and $45 rear and $84/$47 for ceramic. Other than the higher price, is there a downside to using ceramic?

Les

jlhartnett

I have had ceramic pads on my 95 Classic for more than two years now. They were amazing from day one. They work much better than the original pads which seemed slow to act compared to the ceramics. Only thing is I cant remember the brand I used. I think it was Raybestos but cant be sure. Great in wet weather too.

95mushroom

yes, ceramic work awesome in wet. Usually more then the tire can grip. Also marginally better dry.

They say less dust, but my wheels are pretty dirty. Probably still in the break-up part. (Under 2k miles).

blk97aurora

I have found three different types of ACDelco brake rotors for my '97 Aurora. What I have not been able to find is the difference between them. Here is what I find:
177-778 rear
18A488 rear durastop

177-874 front
18A813 front durastop
18A1179 front durastop performance left-hand
18A1180 front durastop performance right-hand

Performance left-hand and right-hand suggest cross-drilled or slotted, but there are no photos or text descriptions on the ACDelco website.

Can anyone provide information about differences?

Les

rjs200240

I believe the performance rotors are slotted. For some reason they only make them for the fronts on our cars.

Here's some info from AC on the diferences:

http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_brake_main.htm
http://www.acdelco.com/worldwide/eng/pl_eng_brake.htm

Can't find anything on the performance ones, but I seem to recall there being an article a while back on them... :-\

tims1

Hello Yall . Just got a 2001 Aurora with the 3.5 was wondering about changing the oil and coolant I have being reading a little bit about synthetic and did know if I change it every 3000 if I would really need to use it. Also It seams all the coolant I find says its approved for all makes and models[universal] but its not really called DEXCOOL.anybody have any bad experiances using this stuff? Thanks.

Tim

blk97aurora

FedEx just delivered ACDelco performance front rotors for my '97 Aurora. They are cross-drilled and slotted. They are labeled "L" and "R" which I expected. The problem is that if they are mounted with "L" on the driver side and "R" on the passenger side, the slots are oriented backward from what I expected. I checked the web and found Brembo and Baer examples showing the orientation as I expected -- the end of the slot at the outer edge of the rotor should touch the brake pads first. Are the ACDelco rotors intended to be mounted differently? Or are the "L" and "R" reversed?

My car is on jack stands ready for these rotors to be installed.

Les

95mushroom

I really don't think it would matter. The AC Delco orientation have the center spun clockwise (\) or counter (/)?

Other think to keep in mind is that your rotors have slots too. I also don't think it mattered if you switched them as well.

I would mount them with the slots aimed away like / that so it would throw the pad dust away from the hub.

Henry

Calling Javi and the rest of the Dogs. Time to replace my tires on my 95 Autobahn. Suggestions are:

1) Michelin - 235 55 17 Z rated tire at $249 a tire
2) Perillir - 235 55 17 Z rated at $175
3) BF Goodrich Traction T/A price unknown

I have the 2001 wheels I am going to put on the Classic, so that is why I am looking at 17" rather than 16" tires.

What do you guys think???

hammen2

Henri, I've got Traction T/A's (only 16's) on my Aurora. Extremely good grip in rain, very good on snow (though with 20+k on them they're starting to get a little less sticky). Much happier than the crappy original MXV's that were on my Aurora when I got her, and better than the Dunlop SP Sport A2's, which started out OK but were terrible by 20k miles.

--Robert

Henry

I found the Periellis on Tirerack for $118.00 or $503 for 4 tires including shipping. These 235/55/17's are WR rated. I had to go for the price.

blk97aurora

Henry,

I have the same 2001 wheels on my '97. I chose Continental ContiExtremeContact 255 50 17 ZR tires with service rating of 100W. I looked at 2001+ stock size 235 55 17 tires, but none I saw had a load index higher than 97 or 98. I was not willing to go with less than the load index of 100 for the classics. Plus I like wider tires in general. The Contis have great traction dry, wet, snow. I got them for about $160 each at STS.

Les

rjs200240

On my car, the original load index was 98. What was it on the classic?

Henri, what are the factors you are looking for from a tire? All-season ability? Better grip? Which Michelins are you looking at for $250 a tire?

And shame on all of you with your secret 17" upgrades... Where the heck are the pictures?!?

blk97aurora

Robert,

Load index for Classics' tires is 100.

I have the photos, but I haven't been able to figure out how to make them available since we are prohibited from including them with our posts.

Les

Henry

I beg to differ. The load index was 99V for the 95's with autobahn. I just looked at the Michelin website at the OE tires. I can not say about the other years of the Classic. So it may have been 100 in later years.

blk97aurora

Henry,

Thanks for the correction. I assumed (a bad thing to do) that all classics have the same tire load rating.

Les

alarming9

Performance has slotted rotors front and rear

http://www.domesticperformance.com/default.php?cPath=26_313_314&osCsid=743b5da3c23dc30d501- 8d680d5b5a67e

alarming9

Help, I am trying to buy an ECM for a 97 Autobahn. I need a valid VIN or a part number off the ECM. Would any of you be kind enough to help. Hitting a brick wall.

taylorb27614

............................

alarming9

Anyone want to help out by giving up a valid VIN for a 95 with Autobahn Package. I am trying to buy an ECM for one. Thanks

jmayer

Hi All
I am going to change out the plugs on my 1997 Aurora for the first time. Any tricks to make this easy? Should I remove the rear coils? Do I need to disconnect battery before coil removal?
Thanks John

sinatra2

remove coil pac assembly,.no need to unhook battery

blk97aurora

Last month I replaced my fuel-pressure regulator (FPR) for the second time. First time was in 2002 at 77,000 miles after the typical hard-to-start symptoms, then a fiery backfire; I used ACDelco, of course.

This time I did not have the hard-to-start symptoms. The clue I got was periodic pending codes (P0172 and P0175) for rich exhaust. Didn't seem too serious since the codes never set the Service Engine Soon light. Then I experienced one instance where the engine stalled when I let off the accelerator at about 15 mph. That woke me up! I replaced the FPR with another ACDelco at 122,000 miles.

2000 miles later and all is well.

Les

hammen2

Hi folks,

Got my '98 Aurora out of storage today. She needs a good bath, an interior cleaning, and an oil change, but otherwise she's looking pretty good. Plan to hit her up with an orbital polisher and some of the Zaino Z-PC to try to hide some of the swirls and scratches... if that doesn't help, it's wet-sand time.

My buddy and I are planning on doing brake pads and maybe rotors + front struts + rear shocks (at 95k over 8 years, it's time - last spring I could feel the car "hopping" sideways a little bit on large bumps, and the brakes fade badly compared to those on my GTO :-). Any other upgrades I should do on my '98? Sway bar? Strut tower brace? I am so used to the precise steering feel of the GTO that my Aurora really feels sloppy by comparison... but the Aurora interior seems huge after driving in the GTO for 5 months. I sure have missed the sunroof...

Question I have is whether there are any advantages to going with Monroe or AC Delco for the struts and shocks. My buddy has a parts connection through the local Buick dealer for AC Delco, and at my work we do printing for Tenneco (Monroe parent company), so I'll get good pricing either way...

--Robert

blk97aurora

Robert,

I replaced my '97's struts with Monroe SensaTracs and the shocks with ACDelco. I wanted something high-perf like Koni or Bilstein, but they're just not available for our Auroras. I went with Monroe because I decided not to do the job myself and went to STS for the work, otherwise I would probably have bought ACDelco. I also had new wheels (2001 Aurora 17x7.5) and tires (Continental 255/50-17 ContiExtremeContact) installed at the same time, so I cannot sort out the handling improvements are due to new wheels/tires from struts.

Four months later I replaced the shocks with ACDelco that I got at an extremely good price from RockAuto. At the same time I installed a 22mm rear stabilizer bar. This anti-sway bar comes from 1998-2004 Cad STS FE3; cost about $115. It is a direct replacement for our stock 17mm hollow bar. I also fitted polyurethane bushings and end links.

I am pleased with the results, but I cannot claim dramatic improvements.

I want to try strut and shock tower braces. RSM prices are ridiculously high (for me, anyway). Someone has posted about a GM strut tower brace that costs less than $20. There are issues with interference. This reminds me that I want to pursue this bar.

I do not think you can go wrong with either ACDelco or Monroe. Let us know if you try a front and/or rear brace.

Les

rjs200240

Robert, let me know how you like the ZPC. It sounds interesting.

Les, when are you gonna take some photos of the 17"s and the wider tires? I can host them if you'd like.

blk97aurora

Robert,

I have the photos. Thank you for your offer. Where do I send them?

Les

rjs200240

Click on my profile. Sorry, I thought it was displaying my email address. Guess I turned it off. It should show it now.

tony306

Having trouble with the A/C in my Aurora, anyone out there know where the Fan, or Condenser Fan Blower, motor is located in the Aurora.

blk97aurora

Advance Auto Parts has a current rebate on Mobil oil. Today I purchased six quarts of Mobil 1 10W-30. The price is $3.88 per qt before sales tax and after $0.80 per qt rebate. Must buy six and only six qts. Rebate is for $4.80; purchase must be made by October 1 and rebate form postmarked by October 15.

I have no affiliation with Advance Auto Parts except as a satisfied customer.

Les

sherimc

Might be a silly question, but how in the world do I change a bulb in my headlamp? I can't see any way to remove without a lot of trouble!
Thanks!

josephpolk

This posting is for a friend of mine who owns a 1995 Olds Aurora. Her control panel recently said "oil change" and she got the oil change, but the dealership neglected to reset the control panel so it still says "oil change now".

Does anyone know how to reset this on your own or does this need to be taken back into the dealership to be reset?

Thanks in advance for replying to this posting.

hammen2

Very simple.

From the online owner's manual (register the car at http://www.mygmlink.com to be able to download an Acrobat PDF of the owner's manual):

How to Reset the Oil Life Indicator
Always reset the engine oil life to 100 percent after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the OIL LIFE reminder, do the following:
1. With the ignition on, press the ENG button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press RESET and hold for five seconds. The word RESET will appear, then OIL LIFE 100 % will be displayed.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

jbraz

I have the same question about changing a headlamp bulb. The Owner's Manual says to remove two bolts to loosen the headlamp assembly. I can't determine which bolts to remove. Anyone have experience with this?

tjm97

removing the headlight assembly is a rediculously arduous task. just access through the engine compartment (get a friend with smalll hands) and dont touch the bulbs

e_net_rider

On your ABS thing, this is probably an indication that your tires aren't as sticky as you might think. On the discs thing, Motor Week did a peice on them and almost always the warpage is caused by improper torqueing of the wheel nuts. At that time torque sticks were recognized as an alternative to torque wrenches, but I'm now told that ASE will no longer recognize them. So buy a torque wrench and go behind your mechanic everytime you know those nuts are touched, unless you eyeball him everytime and are certain he used the proper spec.
norman

e_net_rider

Got you with the darned impact wrench didn't they? I was present when one customer got a brake job out of them because they couldn't show him a torque wrench. Considering you are lucky if you get two turnings on the discs, I'd say he got screwed anyway and should have made them replace with new of what he had. Pep Boys way of curing the problem against future complaints: Shop manager got an arm full of torque wrenches off the store shelf and passed them out in the shop saying, "Put this in your tool box". I've never seen any of their mechanics pull it from the box. This way you have to watch them use the impact and not the torque wrench. Also this is the primary reason for wrung off studs and some claim not replacing them in sets results in uneven torque. That is the amount of pressure applied by the nut due to frictional differences in the threads. So, even though you use the wrench a different amount of pressure is applied resulting in warpage. Only way around is to oil threads, but then that overtorques. Saw a general spec somewhere that said back off 10 pounds when oiled.

march94aurora

The dealer had to remove the right tire and wheel well housing when I had the A/C compressor replaced about 1000 miles ago. I think I got bit by the darned impact wrench then. Effect of warped rotor was barely noticible right after the work was done but has become more amplified just lately. I am the only one driving so am sure the brakes have not been overheated. Would like to re-torque and see if things get better. Thanx, Paul

rjs200240

Did you ever send me pictures? If so, I didn't get them.

March94, the proper torque is 100ft-lbs on the lug nuts.

e_net_rider

It might help a little, but not fix. I would at least do it and give it a couple of weeks(several heat and cooling sessions) before turning the rotor. But I'd give it a shot at getting that dealer to put a new one on. Why should you pay for his mistake with a turning which removes metal.
The more people that are aware of being stuck and taking the mechanic for it, the sooner this injustice will go away. It's just not brakes. You start these high speed vibrations with warped rotors and it starts unusual, for your driving conditions, wear paterns in suspension parts, CV joints, tires, etc.

e_net_rider

Does anyone have details as to when the changes took place. Idiot who previously had car put a non-vented 1/2 the power battery in. I purchased replacement just over a year ago. Vent hook-up was missing so I went to dealer and ordered. I saw it didn't fit like it appeared it should. Through this forum, I think, I learned the replacement battery was slightly smaller. Thoughts went through my head that it was an idiotic thing for GM to do, knowing the vent requirements. Maybe to the point NHTSA should be involved. Now I hear there is a new vent kit for proper fit.
If anyone has dates, I can prove they sold me the wrong kit, when the correct was available.

e_net_rider

If you check the reviews at tire rack, you'll find many owners are more happy with the Khumo than any other. Also much cheaper. Only about 8K on them so far, and can't speak for snow, but seem excellent on all conditions I've seen. Ride, quiet, and wet/dry traction. Had it pushed to the limiter one time.