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Comments
I sprayed some silicon lubricant onto the springs (when the engine was cold of course!) and the problem is now solved. How long it will remain solved has yet to be seen.
Has anyone had any problems with 'creaking' in the steering wheel?
I have a 2002 P5 and my brother-in-law has a 2001 Protege, we both have developed this 'creaking' sound when the steering wheel is turned left or right. When the steering column is straight there is no creaking. My Bro-in-law likes to tinker and he hasn't been able to figure out the cause. It doesnt seem to affect the steering itself but it's bloody annoying.
Pls Help.
--Kilbey
When the filter is removed on the P5, it is normal for oil to run down the back of the engine block and that might be what you saw on your driveway.
Neither of these items will cause your engine light to come on though.
I've had my PR5 since december 2002.
GEARS GRINDED LIKE CRAZY...so hard all the time to put it into gear
I've had the clutch changed (under warranty)
the first 3 gears (under warranty)
Both O2 sensors(under warranty)
all four factory rims (under warranty..they started to bubble)
more tranny problems...had the stick pop out of gear 5...and had that and the reverse along with a bunch of other things in there changed (not under warranty)
ready for this...drum roll please!!!!!!!!!!
the engine replaced...no oil light came on......car was ticking when the tranny went..and garage told me my oil filter was loose, thought they'd check oil level after that, and didn't....a month later the ticking went to knocking and the engine went at 144,000 kms....I dont know how many miles that is.
SOOOOOOOO....they cant get blamed because it happened to long after...and I end up with a nice bill
RUST BUILDUP at the trunk where the PROTEGE5 emblem is...and waterholes I call them...inside right at the bottom of the trunk (under warranty)
RUST again on the moldings on the rear doors(under warranty)
RUST on Gas Springs for trunk (under warranty)
but really besides the engine going...the car has been great...I did drive it a lil crazy at first...was hard on the gears, but they called the first clutch job a manu. defect, and threw in a piece that looked completely different.
on the upside, the inside still looks brand new and the outside is hanging in there, with few scratches.
Did you mean www.clubprotege.com/forum ? "
Was this to me?
If so, no - I was referring to msprotege.com.
Sucks about the engine!
as the post suggests it, my ABS and Brake lights stay on after the engine is started...
I noticed that this happens when the car as runned for a while (maybe 20 mins) and engine cutted off, lights stays on after the engine is restarted. Brakes light sometimes goes off and work correctly but the ABS light stays on and the ABS system is not working at all when the light is on. And sometimes after the car is stopped (with engine cutted-off) for somes minutes, and when I restart it this light goes off and everything seems to works well... All the fluids are OK and the brakes works perfectly (except for the ABS when the light is on). Is there something I could check to fix or even to have a better idea to what the problem is?
So thanks in advance for your help, 'cos the nearest Mazda dealer is far away from here...
The car has just 36000Km and it never had accident.
I'd stick with standard hydraulic w/ compressed gas strut cartridges, but go with your butt.
i'm sure 17" will fit, but i'm wondering if i can go to 18"...anyone have any experience with this? tire sizes that do/don't fit with 18's would be great.
thanks.
I just bought this car but the seller didn`t have the manual. I'll appreciate your help
MazdaUSA is offering free access to Mazda owners manuals from their website (in the Owners section) but it may not cover older models. You may want to call some nearby dealers to see if you can buy one (or maybe photocopy one of their copies).
p.s. the online service manual which has many of the important technical details can be found at http://protege5.ugly.net/
I think I am having the same problem as you. I detect some kind of creaking of squeaking sound whenever I am doing steering. At first it was hard steering, but now I hear it whenever I am doing simple maneuvers. And yes, it IS bloody annoying. It's embarrassing to drive friends around when the car his squeaking--I usually have to keep the radio on when I drive, else that squeak drives me mad!
anyway, I think I know what the problem is, but I'm not entirely sure. I hope this can help you!
I looked around in the cabin for suspected squeaky noise producers, and I found that the squeak may not be the steering wheel at all, but a result of steering, and of parts moving. I think the squeak is coming from either a) the steering column (not likely) b) the seat (sit in your seat without the engine started and wiggle around. Do you hear the squeaks? If so, lightly lube the metal parts underneath the seat. Use wd-40 or equivalent) c) the center console with radio/cd player and AC/heat controls. I know that last one sounds crazy, but I really think it's the culprit. When I poke my center console around the bottom edges and sides (especially below the AC controls), I notice the same squeaky sound. It's so annoying! I think that's the cause of it. I'm worried about lubing the underparts of that console up, so for now I am just listeing to music when I drive.
I will be contacting the mazda dealer shortly.
Work done thus far:
replaced the IAC
replaced the temp sensor
changed spark plugs
air filter is clean
mass air flow sensor is clean
throttle body is clean
checked for air leaks
mazda hooked it up to the computer there and all levels read in the normal range on all readouts
quick note: when the clutch is engaged slightly, the idle takes over but once the clutch is let off the idle just lets the rpms loose again. everything under the hood of my car is stock or has been replaced by mazda as well.
anyone have any new ideas? my car has been in the shop so many times.
p.s. My stock 2002 P5 is running flawlessly.
i just want to know if anyone has any ideas as to what to check now, given the difference in performance due to the temperature change. this car has been looked at by 5 mechanics, 2 mazda shops and a few other people and alot has been tried...but it seems no one can figure it out. i mean could the problem come as a result of an intake being on there, sure....but what would that affect and what needs looked at that hasn't been addressed already. it is easy to say "oh it is because you modified it" and leave it at that.....but some ideas would be helpful.
When downshifting, if you slowly let out the clutch after the shift the idle mode and rpm drop is apparent and working until the clutch is completely let out then it goes into what i call "free fall" mode where the RPM stick wherever it was when the clutch was let out...then acts the same as the throttle example above. but when the clutch is slightly engaged, like at the level where you would have it when taking off on a hill without rocking backward, while coasting along in free fall mode, the idle drop happens as it should.
One other thing i noticed is when the car is at a stop and in gear and you let out the clutch in preparation to go (similar to the nonrock back hill position) the Tac RPM's bounces over and over and over and never stops between 1k and 0.
Craziness.
But like i said, when the temperature was hot outside like the last couple months the car would either drive perfect or eventually start working correctly. But now that the temperature has cooled down outside it is just messed up like stated above all the time.
Good luck. Please report back what happens.
BIG NO-NO! That's called "slipping the clutch," and you're going to go through a lot of clutches doing this!
Meade
I guess call you dealer's service center or Mazda for details and verification...
1-800-222-5500 (I am currently waiting for the next available operator)
Meade
/direct/view/.ef90f3f
and ended up in the wrong place.
Mazda5 Owners: Problems and Solutions
This sounds like the problem I had with the security-alarm horn on my P5.
Whenever the alarm activated the sound would change in pitch and sometimes even die off. Of couse it was very intermittent and weather dependent.
Eventually I decided to troubleshoot it and found a bad (rusty) ground connection
on a wire attached to the chassis. The horn itself can easily be tested by connecting it directly to 12V DC.
Wouldn't it be a kick to drop in a Dodge 318ci small-block V8 (one of the best American engines in history) into the P5? Maybe with pushbuttons like the Dodges of the early 60s controlling manumatics. The main problem would be keeping the beast fed.
Meade
A little help, host?
Meade
I have recently purchased a 02 P5 after my 97 Ford Exploder was put out to pasture with 210k miles.
I felt something was amiss during the purchase but it seemed to be something that wouldn't require a lot of time or money to repair and the price of the P5 was hard to beat.
Basically, the radio, the remote entry, and the dome lamp do not work. I've checked all fuses, reconnected the radio, replaced the bulbs, replaced the key fob battery ... all the simple items that I thought might repair the problems individually.
Anyway, it does rather seem odd that all of these things are awry especially considering the P5 only has 50k miles and other things like the 12 v outlet work just fine. It could just be coincidence but I'm wondering if there's a circuit that could be to blame.
If anyone has any thoughts I'd love to hear them as I'd prefer to not visit the local Mazda dealership with at least some better idea of the problem.
Many thanks!
craig
Are you sure that's the A/C and not the fan running?
And like iamz said, having owned Proteges, a Protege5 and a Mazda3 since 1991, I have noticed very little difference in fuel economy based on my use of the air conditioning, believe it or not! Maybe a 1 mpg difference, but not enough to make me wish for such changes. Believe me, after having owned a charcoal-gray car that did not have air conditioning for five years in college, and using it to deliver hot, steaming pizzas in the fall and winter with rain and snow falling outside, you WANT the defroster to use the A/C!!!
Meade
Meade