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Comments
Some lady backed into my car's front fender (driver's side) today with her minivan. I wasn't around when it happened, but she at least called the police and filled out an accident report. In any case the fender is destroyed and I'll need a new one. Does anyone know what can be done to get the soon to be newly painted new fender to look as good as the factory paint job. Does Mazda ship prepainted fenders color matched for my car? Mine is yellow and I wonder how hard it will be to get a good paint match.
I bought my car from Morrie's Mazda in MN. Does anyone know if they have a good body shop?
Aftermarket paint jobs are usually air-cure (not put in an oven), so tend to be less durable. Thus, you shouldn't wash, wax or polish the repainted section for a couple months.
I had a repaint done on parts of my red 323. Under daylight, you can barely tell the difference. However, under sodium lamps or mecury lamps, you can tell more easily. Matching any particular paint under multiple light sources is difficult.
I would look for someone else.
shrique, I am going through Morrie's Bodyworks (which is the Subaru bodyshop). I had already talked to them on the phone and set up the estimate by the time I read your post.
They convinced me they would get everything back to par. I'll let you know next week.
Mazdafun, I can deal with the no wax and polish for a couple of months, but there is no way I won't wash it for that long. I think letting the corrosive salt they dump all over our streets sit on the fresh paint for that long would be far worse. I'll be careful to try and rinse off as much of the salt and grime and avoid scrubbing.
newcar31, I agree that if one can't back one's vehicle out of a parking spot at a couple of miles per hour without smashing into BRIGHT YELLOW OBJECTS, one should go through drivers training again at a minimum.
I'm all for more stringent training and periodic testing. After all, driving is a privilege, not a right. Of course, it's difficult to get anywhere most places w/o driving (you can thank GM and Ford for helping destroy mass-transit systems in many cities in the early to mid 20th century).
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons
The dealer called it 'valve tracking' problems, and needed reprogramming. I am still waiting for them to get the program to do this from Mazda Canada.
Could this be the same thing that people are referring to as 'valve delay'? Even on 2003's? Should I quote the TSB? If so, can someone repost the link--I can't find the posting.
Thanks everyone for the great info on this site!
Here's a link that I know of: http://web2.airmail.net/emann/protegefaq/tsb/
Writer: "I talked to Mazda Technical support and we got the part ordered to fix this issue but we have to wait a couple of weeks to get the program for your ECU so we can flash it. Actually the mazda technical support guy asked me where I got this information because this "TSB" hasn't even been released to the dealerships yet."
Which of course I told him about Edmunds and about how this particular issue has taken on the name "death rattle".
I got mine fixed in Feb/14. I have to leave the car at the dealer for a day (got a free rental car.) They had to order the new delay valve of the VTSC. I got the air vent on the conductor side replaced under warranty in the same visit (something is losing and it refuses to stay open.)
Eventually, it was obvious enough that the dealer changed the clutch (last November.)
It was better, but now it starting to slip again. It has never shifted as well as when it was new, even when it's not slipping... it just isn't fun to shift at all.
I've driven mostly shift cars all my life and have never had this problem before. Makes me question my shifting abilities at times - but I remember back to my old Honda Civic Si 5 speed. Never had any problems with that, and it was an econobox, too.
So... my question is this. I'm thinking of maybe purchasing a "better" clutch assembly. I'm not sure if this means a "competition" clutch or not. I'm just assuming the Mazda stock clutch is not up to snuff, and replacement units will be more of the same.
Any suggestions? I'm even thinking of asking the dealer if they will install it if I buy it. My dealer has been great so far, although this is a big request.
Obviously, I don't race the car - but I do enjoy driving and would like to move up & down the gears "sportily" - if that's a word! I'd hate to have to spend more than ... say $500.
thanks in advance.
most common causes are:
1) leaking main seal results in oil deposits on the flywheel. I doubt this is it- new cars shouldn't do this... this is usually a symptom on older cars.
2) glazed flywheel- result of thermal overload. this can be either the result of a bad driver that slips the clutch a lot, or a bad flywheel design (or materials).
If you do go aftermarket, you could consider a dual-friction clutch with a metallic compound on the pressure-plate side (NOT flywheel side) for better engagement at a wider range of temperatures. Centerforce makes a decent DF clutch, though they tend to chatter (not shudder) a bit when engaged.
-Alt
To answer pciskowski, this 2nd clutch mostly feels like it's slipping (only happens in 1st or reverse). It just "grabs" after a split second. It is starting to "judder" a little now, too (a rapid pounding feeling).
Let me know if you find a solution...
I removed the front bezel where the radio is to install an lcd for a home made navi/dvd/mp3 system.. (it's been a fun project, will post pictures when done)
anyways.. I'm guessing I may have dislocated my heating coil or something to that regard.. because I get no more heat. ack!
thanks!
-Mark
As far as replacing the flywheel... if yours is glazed, I'd be more concerned with finding out *why* rather than just replacing it and moving on, because if the culprit is you, or something else in the car then you may end up with two glazed flywheels. Again, I'm pretty sure you should get your lines bled first... they are probably to blame.
best of luck,
-Alt
I refuse to accept that it's my driving. Sorry - been driving 30+ years in all types of cars (first car had "three on the tree") and it's never been a problem.
I think it's a design fault. I've been reading a lot in the Miata forum - they have a similar problem with the Miata (don't know if the p5 & miata share any clutch parts, but it does imply a mazda design flaw).
Now, why does it show up in some cars and not others? ... and why did my new clutch exhibit the same problem? I'm at a loss. I guess I'm going to have to bring it back in to the dealer and have them check it out (and bleed the line).
I just want to mention that, besides the chatter, it just doesn't shift well. it's sometimes hard to get into gear - it's not smooth. It's not fun to drive.
I'm seriously thinking of selling the car - which is a shame because I like everthing else about it.
I'm leary of returning the car to the dealer for this, I don't want to get it back in worse shape than it is. Anyone know of a fix?
I also noticed the little metal clips they used to secure the first black screw you have to take out, are not rust proof and, after only one week, are beginning to corrode.
This is really disappointing. I really like this car but, I don't want to deal with silly stuff like this.
There was a problem around 85-90 with the rear fenders on the Civic but, almost every other car on the road from that time frame has rust issues too. Anyway, I'm not talking the entire body of the car, I'm talking about one lil clip. One tiny piece that looks like it shouldn't be rusting after one week.
I've got 41,000 miles on my P5 and she is holding up fine. So all I'm trying to convince you of, is to not worry, the car is built very well.
From my understanding the roof-rack is mounted to the car prior to its being shipped from the port of entry.
While I'm sure the car will provide years of service, these are not problems I expect to see.
And as for your driving abilities. I apologize... I was not trying to imply that you are a bad driver in particular. I was just saying that driving style is *one possible cause* of the symptoms you described in general. That's all I meant by it.
-Alt
The main reason I stressed is cause the hole for the bolt is mounted directly on the car. It's not a bracket I can remove and replace. Anyway, I over reacted (apparently).
React as you like. Glad all is well.
On a side note, you were lucky with your Hondas. My mom's 92 Accord was reliable and lasted 184k before being totalled, but it was not without problems. The distributor died at less than 90k, requiring a tow. She also had 2 other ignition related problems that stranded her. My sister had to claim the lemon law on her 00 Odyssey. I no longer believe in Honda's supposed superior quality. They are good cars, but so are a lot of others.
I know you're unhappy, but is an antifreeze smell a valid reason to tell folks to beware buying the car? Check any source you like and you'll find that the Protege is one of the most reliable small cars on the market.
Has the dealer performed a pressure test?
this is my curious nature, but does anyone in here know what info the chip archives in the ecu and for how long it stores driving stats, etc? And, if I flash the ecu with a performance profile will it void the warranty on my 6 month old P5 with 5000 miles on it?
thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers.