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Cadillac DTS Electrical Issues

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Comments

  • spice29spice29 Member Posts: 2
    I'm also having the same problem how did you solve yours.. If u don't mind me asking please need help... Car won't start ,horn won't work nor do everything you listed same exact problem
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    Well, it finally happened again. First time since my first experience with "no Start" situation since my earlier entry of Feb, 2013 (Indytoo). and at the worst time to happen, I went out early this morning to take my wife, who is ailing, to the ER and the damn car would not start. It just clicked. All lights, radio, etc. worked except starter would only make an initial noise and stop. The first time it happened, there was absolutely nothing available. This time, only the starter would not turn over the engine. Fortunately, I have a very reliable GMC pickup so we jumped in it and headed to the ER. After getting home, I connected jumper cable from car to truck and car started right up. Disconnected cables, shut car off, then it restarted right up. Drove around the block and came home and shut it off and then it restarted quickly again. It is obvious that this car cannot be trusted, and with only around 40K miles on it, I hate to dispose of it since I really like that car otherwise. I wish that someone had a solid solution to this problem. It is obvious that the maker of the car does not have a clue.
  • kayj1223kayj1223 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 DTS has a new battery in it, but I had to take an extended 3 week vacation and when I got home, the battery was dead. Charged it up and it will start and run, but this time my radio nor the ONStar works! Has anyone come up with a good solution? I know the car is old, but I love it when it doesn't have any problems!
  • raymondtmraymondtm Member Posts: 3
    Hello all! This is DRIVING ME CRAZY. My 2006 DTS has the intermittent battery drain issue, too, and sometimes the battery is dead when we go out to start it. THE BATTERY IS BRAND NEW. JUST LIKE THE PREVIOUS ONES. In fact, i just installed another new one, and returned car to my Lady, and it did fine until last Saturday. She went out to go to work. I saw her coming back onto the porch, and I said oh nooo.... SHe came in, hurled the keys at/near me, and said F-it, take it, sell it, drive if off a cliff, I don't care!

    I have trouble shot this car a lot. I have a DC ammeter, and when I turn the car off I watch the current drain go down in stages, as it should, and it generally goes to a very low millamp level. I firmly believe, at this point, that sometimes, intermittently, that something in the car does not turn off properly and the current drain stays high and runs the battery down. Or, if everything does turn off properly, that sometimes during the night something turns back on. I just don't know.

    1. I may have to get a permanently installed DC ammeter with a data storage device, so that I can see a log of current drain over times, such as hours/days. Anyone done that?

    2. Where is the BCM located on my car: 2006 DTS? Thanks!

    3. Any help, suggestions?


    Later,

    Raymond
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    https://f01.justanswer.com/StLouisWayne/1a2a2550-ce42-4525-86b5-1bad54ed556a_bcm.pdf

    This is looking at the back of your dashboard from the front of the car.
  • raymondtmraymondtm Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, Mr_Shiftright. Do I access it from the engine side or from inside the car, through/under the glove box...?
  • raymondtmraymondtm Member Posts: 3
    Update: first, thanks to all that have replied and participated. After doing a lot of research into how the battery charging operation works in this car, since my last post in Dec I am thinking that my Lady just doesn't drive the car often or long enough. Her work is only 2 miles from her house, all below 40 MPH speed limit. I explained my theory to her, and showed her to monitor the battery voltage on the dash display. We now leave the display setting to show the battery voltage all the time. Since Dec, she does watch the voltage reading, and drives it often enough to allow the voltage to drop down to 12.x or 13.x volts, which is where it should be when the battery is in a good state of charge. Since her work place is so close to her house, and the speed limit is so low during the drive, she sometimes has to just drive around a few miles from time to time when it needs it. When the voltage display reads mid-to-high 14 volts or higher (if it reaches the 15 volt range, it definitely needs to be driven a while, and/or the battery put on a charger) then she drives it around until it drops back to normal range.

    Although it's been a while now, and there is not been another "no start" issue, I'm still keeping my fingers crossed that an intermittent problem still doesn't crop back up. But after learning how the charging works on this model car, i fell pretty confident.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What you found out is certainly plausible. Those are very short trips.
  • tweedledeedumtweedledeedum Member Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem and had it since 201, the year I bought the car. I've tried the keeping my doors locked method, and that seems to help. I have a small one amp charger but that doesn't seem to work when the battery is discharged.  Is there a a minim amperage charge needed to overcome all the electronics?  I'm thinking about getting one of those automatic battery chargers, but there's no sense in overdoing it or under doing it.  I have a battery maintainer, but II doubt if that will work since the 1 amp 12 volt battery charger has no effect.
  • JustCory88JustCory88 Member Posts: 5

    So i think ive solved a alot of issues in one swipe here. I may be mistaking but go to your control modules and pull out the plugs and check your crimped connections. I think thats probably the culprit with most of the issues here. I just found the supply line to a preciously untouched rim modile to be loose enough where you could roll it back and forth in the crimp itself and that will cause so many issues.

  • JustCory88JustCory88 Member Posts: 5

    Poorly crimped connections can lead to a variety of issues, such as an electrical short, an open circuit, or a weak connection. Poor quality crimps can cause corrosion, intermittent or poor performance of the connection, and even complete failure of the connection.

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