Ford Windstar Problems

hault

I had similar noises on my 95 Windstar. I believe the "sub frame" bushings were replaced. Which solved my problem. Another possibility is the steering tie rods.

wholigan

Cannot believe that they didn't tell you the tie rods went bad... Happened on my 95WS and brother-in-laws 98WS. Be sure they specify INNER or OUTER - the only problem here is that once one "set" is replaced, the other set has a tendancy to go.

Ford is living on customers like you... I know - I was one from 1998 till last week. Unfortunately, the trade vale on WS is awful.

Your next actions revolve around personal finance - can you afford the repair? Do you have an extended warranty (to keep other problems out of the pocketbook)? It may be worth the repair if you trade it to a different dealer. Since yours is a 99, I would look at the trade possibilities... My decision to trade was based on how much I could get for it as a donation (in my tax bracket - see #1201 above).

Good Luck!

2willdo

... thank you for your replies! :-)

Tie rods going bad at 8,000 miles - when the problem first began? I guess maybe I should not be surprised at that since a cracked rear axle was discovered during a recall repair and had to be replaced at less than 5,000. Apparently when the vehicle was tied down to the railcar for shipping, some idiot chained the axle instead of using those tie-down hooks underneath the car.

The car is 3,000 miles (and one year) out of warranty (no I didn't purchase an extended mostly for the reason that my neighbor has a '98 WS and has never had any trouble with it) the two dealers I took it to in Denver told me basically I was SOL at 36,000 or 3 years, even though the car was taken in 5 times over the course of the warranty period to have this problem fixed. I don't have much disposable income at the moment, and can't afford to trade for another car. Fortunately I kept my old '88 Honda Accord and though looking pretty rough, still runs well.

Can either of you tell me if this car is unsafe in this condition if indeed it is the tie rods?

Again, thanks for your replies, all help is duly appreciated!

stever

I don't know how much time you have to chase after this but it wouldn't hurt to open up a case with Ford (regional rep or someone higher up the food chain than the dealer). Harp on the fact that 5 previous attempts to fix the problem didn't work and that it's dangerous to drive.

I'd also call your local AG's Office of Consumer Protection and see if they have any suggestions for you. Good luck!

Steve, Host

imladyred

Tonight, while driving home, my husband said that there was a 'clunk' and then the van wouldn't go any more...only in reverse. This is a '99 Windstar with 76000 miles.

Anybody have any ideas what is wrong?
Thanks!
Lisa

momtaxi

I like many others have had my head gaskets repaired as per the 1998 recall and now in 2003 almost exactly double the milage from the first head gaskets the secong ones have gone. Does anyone have any information or suggestions or knowledge of this? Is Ford replacing the second set or am I SOL? Also what is the $4000 credit I have seen so much and why was I not offered this 2000 when the first set was fixed?

tmant

My 2000 SE transmission didn't go clunk or any noise for that matter. Light turned green and the engines just revs. I had about 62k miles on it. Ended up paying ~3500 to fix the transmission at a Ford dealership.

In the process spent another ~1000 to fix a leak in the manifold or something.

Oh yeah, reverse did work, but I don't think you want to drive backwards around town!

wholigan

I had a few motors/trannys in my 95WS. The last time I had it in, the 2/24000 warranty on the replacement motor was expiring. I was concerned because it was "eating" coolant (no leak - smelled like burning coolant) and wanted them to check it out. Cost me $72 just to have dye put in to be SURE it was not a leak. They had no explanation as to why, 2500 miles later, the coolant reservior (filled before the test) was empty. No leak to be found. After LENGTHY discussions with the Ford Customer Service Representative (CSR - this is my dealerships third in the last four years) she finally came out and said what I was expecting to hear: "Mr. XXX, your vehicle is more than seven years old and at this point you need to take responsibility for your purchase."

Needless to say, I will never own another Ford. Bottom line, your only cource of action is to start with the dealership's Ford CSR.

I wish you luck...

jem4258

I have just about had it! The sensors on these vans are JUNK! Mechanically, I have had problems, but nothing major so I keep telling myself that is the important thing, but it is so annoying to have the lights on all the time, or the doors locking and unlocking...now the locks don't work at all, and the alarm goes off when i open the door! I have had sensors replaced, just to have the same problem pop up a few months later. Last time I refused to change a $200.00 sensor, and the inside lights eventually went off by themselves. What does that mean...that left alone they eventually fix themselves?!? Now I am debating as to whether to take in in for the latest sensor problem, or give it time to see if it will "heal thyself"...what a racket they have going on with these. And everytime I go the Ford dealership with this problem, they say it is a sensor. I say I just had the sensor replaced...they say it must be a different one, etc., etc....Do I just give up and get rid of it, or count myself lucky it seems to be mechanically sound? HELP!

fezo

and many of you make my experiences with my late, unlamented Windstall look downright tame.

As bad as the engine and tranny were (how can a car company stay in business when they can't make a decent drivetrain?) far worse was the attitude at Ford. From 80 - 85,000 miles it cost me $1 per mile for repairs alone. It was no proze before that but it was going downhill os fast we dumped it as quickly as possible.

I have two Hondas now (and Ody and an Accord) and will never buy another Ford again. I think the only way Ford will get the message is for folks to do that very thing and let them know they have lost your trust!

There is no excuse either for their vehicle failures nor their attitude.

fezo

WAS there a secret warranty on the 95 trannies? I eventually got some of my money back on the head gasket but nothing on the tranny or other engine problems.

A pox on Ford!

flacko

Jem4258, I have the same sort of problem with my 1998. The main culprit seems to be the sliding door switch. You can buy both halves of the switch at Ford for about $40. I usually just take some contact cleaner and emory cloth and clean up the contacts about every 6 weeks (takes about 5-10 minutes) and that normally fixes it. Thank goodness for that hour or two later override feature that eventually shuts off the inside lights, or the battery would be going dead all of the time. Mechanically mine has been good...just turned 90K mostly highway. I bought an extended warranty at 60K which runs out at 100K. I plan on selling the van at about 96K so it still has some warranty left and so I don't eat the big problems (head gasket, tranny) after the warranty runs out. Don't let ford keep charging you $200 for those door sensors. Just try cleaning the contacts yourself.

crd123

I have a 01 SEL and have been noticing that the temperature display has not been warming up to match the weather. It stays at around 65 when the temperature outside is around 75. Anyone experience this or has their temperature probe replaced?

bdbomber

A bit of advice for all Windstar owners who are having multiple problems . Swallow your pride and Dump it Now! I had a chance to dump mine(98) and was talked out of it by the dealer(lemon law). After 26 times to the shop for multiple problems I finally got rid of it before the extended warranty ended at 60k. Took a huge hit on resale value. I lost 75% after 4yrs. Ouch . I now own a Mazda Mpv and so far after 8 mos. No problems. Okay it does have a Ford Duratec Engine in it but I did my research and the Duratec is a decent engine. Face it , if the Windstar was such a good vehicle Why is Ford changing the name?

wholigan

Here is the link to what was offered regarding transmissions:

wholigan Jul 31, 2000 4:17pm

Funny, I have an Ody now as well...

luv4beer

My '99 WS began making grinding, Jurassic Park-like noises during slow speed steering. Tuffy replaced the ball joint and did an alignment. 2 weeks later - more Jurassic Park noises, but sounded slightly different. Shortly thereafter I discovered it was leaking quite a bit of fluid from the far left boot(outer tie rod?). They want to replace the power steering rack and want $700. Anyone else experience similar problems? Should I give in or get a second opinion?

wholigan

FWIW- The "jurasic park" noises are definitely tie rod related. I had both the inner and outer tie rods replaced (at separate times) - and both times the noise was (an excellent descriptor) the "jurasic park" type.

Yea, that is yet another feature on the WS - after four years you need new tie rods... Just my experience anyway!

Good Luck!

luv4beer

I guess I'll cave - anything to get rid of this psychotic T-Rex.

murphy30

The problems with the front end steering box and tie rods on Windstars seem to be common. I've already replaced the tie rod ends at 40K and just replaced the steering box (55K) on my 99 Windstar for a further $800. You would think that a company celebrating its 100th anniversary would have learned how to make steering components work properly. The steering initally locked up when it failed. Lucky it was in a parking lot!

mjment

My 96' Windstar just had the timing cover leak repaired, the intake & head gaskets replaced, the MAF sensor replaced, TPS and an 02 sensor replaced all at the 145,000 km mark. At this point 3 different mechanics are still unable to detect the cause of why the rpm's hunt when you come to a hard stop or why it stalls when switching from reverse to drive while trying to park. When the rpm's hunt the oil light flutters as it is about to stall, then sometimes it recovers to a normal smooth idle. I'm wondering if someone else might be able to shed some light on what might be causing this??

wijoco

Did the idle problem occur following the gasket replacements? And were those sensors replaced to try and cure the idle problem? If you can give us a timeline on those things, it will help. I'm going to speculate that was the order in which the work was performed. If so, then my best advice would be to stop replacing sensors without knowing what the problem is. You're just pouring money away by guessing like that. Have you checked all engine codes? That would be the first order of business, then do a *thorough* visual inspection of the motor, looking for cracked vacuum lines, loose wires, etc. You could have something as simple as a vacuum leak due to faulty or incorrectly installed replacement gaskets. If your mechanics feel they can't find the problem, then I would look around for a shop that specializes in driveability problems. You may have to spend more on his hourly rate, but it will pay for itself by the savings of parts costs. Keep careful documentation of all work done, and share that with your mechanic so that he doesn't do the same work twice, and let him understand that you do not want to replace any more parts unnecessarily. And the oil light fluttering is normal when the engine is about to stall; the oil pressure drops down too low when the idle drops off and sets the light. Good luck, keep us updated!

gowild

I bought my 96 windstar new, and have maintained it well, hoping to drive it for a long time. At 90,000 miles, the tranny went. At 95,000 the timing cover gasket was leaking coolant and was replaced. Now the oil pressure lamp flickers at idle, the engine has a low end knocking noise. I'm being told the crankshaft bearings are shot and the engine should be replaced. I'm surprised and saddened that a major U.S. corporation would peddle such an inferior product.

wijoco

I can sympathize. A new 3.8 will cost you between $2500-$3500 installed, so it may be time to move on. The engine damage probably occured with the timing gasket leak: before you fixed it the engine had already absorbed enough coolant to destroy the bearings. It would have been nice of your mechanic to think ahead and check for coolant in the oil before replacing the timing gaskets! I have a friend who put a new 3.8 in his '96 after timing gasket failure at about 80,000 miles, so that seems to be the problem with '96s as opposed to total head failures like 95s. I think by '98 Ford got most of the catastrophic engine and transmission problems ironed out, wasn't that nice of them? Good news is, the Windstar's reputation precedes it, so resale values are low if you're looking at a used one. 97/98 on up are good values for the money if you find a clean one without major problems; you're likely to have better luck than with a 95 or 96.

batman16

I took the van to Welford Harris Ford in Siler City to fix the door handle that broke ,and while they had it asked them to look at the transmission because it was changing gears very strangly. The door handle will cost me $140.00 to replace, it has taken a week to get the part in. The kicker was the service manager told me third gear was all but gone out of the transmission (53,000) and that it would cost over $2000.00 to fix. We purchased the van from University Ford in Durham, so I called them about our problem. They had a meeting with a Ford rep the following Monday to discuss our case. They said they are willing to help us out. I wanted to know what he meant by that and he said worst case that we would need a new transmission and they would do that for 500.00. I would not recomend a Windstar to anyone considering buying one.

kvlug

we bought our van three years ago and have had expensive problems each year. One year after we got it the rotors and drums needed to be replaced and most recently it was found that the right caliper is leeking around a piston and needs to be replaced. The dealership says that part should be covered under my warranty. Another problem that I haven't had looked at is the interior lights will flick on and off when I'm driving. It doesn't happen consistatly but it does jump me when it occurs. Has anyone else had this happen or have any ideas?

mted23

I have a 2000 SE with 36000 miles. It seems since the gas stations around the Chicago area have swithced to their summer blend gas I have a pinging on acceleration. Any ideas on how to fix this problem? Sorry but I don't know what would be causing flickering interior lights. Thanks in advance for anybody's help.

hault

I have a 2000 w/26,000 miles. The last time I had my Windstar at the dealer for service (Nov or Dec 2002) they claimed there was a mandatory computer update that had something to do with the "pinging" problem I never personally experienced. I would have declined it,but they had already done it. Low and behold as the weather got warmer I heard some light pinging. I'm trying injector cleaner for now. You may want to consult the dealer about the computer update if your pinging is bad enough. Ford has had several service bulletins on the pinging issue. I would ask the dealer or consult "alldata.com".

tmant

I can't say I've had the flickering light problem, but you might suspect that a door sensor is somehow being interpreted as being open. I've experienced something similar where my door ajar alert and relock of doors have occurred. It has not happened again. You might check the sliding door sensors and clean them.

dbram

I have a 2000 SEL with 58,000 miles and the transimission went on it the other night. $2600 to repair. The van is in excellant shape and I have one more year of payments. This should not happen. My family and I have been loyal Ford purchasers for years but now I have given up. Looking elsewhere--any suggestions?
Honda Odessy/Toyota Sienna or maybe switching to an SUV--Acura MDX. Not sure but I definitely need 7 seats!!

bdemas

dbram: Our 2000 SE just had the torque converter replaced for the 2nd time, we have 85K miles on it. What was replaced on your transmission?

tmant

I'm so sorry to hear you did not at least gotten up to the 62k mark like I did before my transmission failed on my 2000 SE! It cost me about the same as you to repair, but then they found an air leak or something in my intake manifold so I ended up paying 3500+.

They told me my transmission was binding so I couldn't really tell you what was truly replaced in mine. And it would have cost at least another 1000 if I wanted to replace the transmission.

laundryguy

Would match the quality that was job 1 a few decades back. I suppose they had to change the name from Windstar to Freestar because the former's name has been destroyed in the market place. Brokenstar or Repairstar would describe my vehicle in its current condition.

I am ready to part ways with this repair demon after what appears a major decline in reliability this spring. I got a May, 1994, version - second month of production. Make no mistake - this car was solid for about 35k, then worse the next 65, and major fall off at 100k. Make no illusions about making 150k and beyond without serious investment.
 
Here is the list of goodies that have gone wrong in my illustrious ownership:
head gasket: 37,000 miles (very common problem)
transmission piston: 58,000 miles (cheap aluminum part has nice steel service part)
speedometer- on my second - never has worked since 40k - we "guess" at the speed as it bounces in a 10-15 mph zone
rust from the inside out just behind sliding door - appeared at 50k (4 years)
tie rod bent: mid 70's
rear wiper: casting snapped off in mid 60's with wet snow on blade
front 12V lighter - stopped working at 75k

Now the really expensive stuff:
Water pump at 102k
Ball joint at 110k (destoyed tire - other "lifetime" sealed ball joint about dead)
fuel injector on one cylinder jammed in wide open position at 114k - flooded the exhaust and engine with gasoline - 5 days later still trying to fix it. Took out two sensors and who knows what else. Car would still run in this dangerous situation. If you feel missing in the engine and smell gas, but no apparent leaks in engine or fuel lines or tank - stop the car - tow it - or suffer major damage. The combination of heat in the exhaust and gasoline can't be a good mix either. My mechanic says this is a common failure in F150 pickups too.

Scrap value may have been better investment than attempting to repair this vehicle with last failure with current trade value ($1400).

Looking to get a reliable Honda or Toyota van to replace it in the next few weeks. Most dealers groan if I mention the 1995 Windstar for trade. I may follow their suggestion and give to good will for a tax write off.

Soon-to-be-former-Windstar-owner

wholigan

I got $1000 for my 105000 mile trade. The last (of four each) motor/tranny replacement was at 77000 miles.

Found a "variety" of values for it, however, the general "resale" value was $3600. In the 28% tax bracket, that has a charitable donation value of $1008.

Needless to say, I did not hassle with the writeoff. Anybody that buys a used 95 WS did not do their homework and will be punished (financially) appropriately!

dbram

Replaced the entire transmission with a new, not rebuilt, one. Ford did give me a 3yr, 36,000 warranty on the new transmission. Wow. Too bad it is not transferrable for the next person that will own this car.
We have also replaced the tie rods, and had some kind of fuel injection problem last summer.

fezo

Welcome to the club!

Had one of those 95s. Now in general I would say that it was OK - not great, just OK - for maybe 50,000 miles and not a catastrophe until about 80,000. After that it cost a dollar a mile just in repairs until I went screaming into the night. First it was the timing chain cover gasket. Then some other fool gasket. Now for both of them they already had teh engine dropped - think they'd just do the head gasket while they're at it? Hahahahahahahaha..... Two days after the geadgasket repair the transmission went.

Yellow indeed. Ours was red. Should have taken that as "STOP and think about this! A first year Ford product?!?!"

Traded it in ($5,000 in late 99) on a new Accord and later traded the other car for an 02 Odyssey once we realized that a van is a necessity (family got bigger).

Free! I'm free!

Not as in Freestar..... Indeed, the Windstall has such a reputation that they won't even keep the name.

Now I know how Edsel owners felt.

ramou

Hello Folks, we just bought a 99 Windstar LX with 65,000 miles, can anyone tell me what kind of problems or trouble shooting I may expect in the near future, or if there are any tricks..?

davids1

Read back through the past 100 posts. That should cover it.

fezo

Sad but true.

tylerapex

I just took my 2000 Windstar to the dealer for several issues I've been experiencing and they came back with the following $1500 estimate:

Speed sensor needs to be replaced $262
Replace fuel pump because gas gauge is broken $488
Replace door lock actuator because power lock on driver's door randomly works $195
Replace intake gaskets because of engine knocking/pinging with 87 octane gas $493

Is there anything I can do about this? I can't afford to get all of this fixed. Plus, I'm planning get rid of this piece of junk as soon as possible....not that I can probably even get back what I owe on it.

Thanks!

stever

Get a second opinion from an independent mechanic. Extra time and hassle, but you may save yourself some money.

Steve, Host

crankky

After reading this board, I'm feeling better about my Ford Extended Warranty more every day.

So far the only thing that's happened is a transmission shudder that was fixed under warranty about 10k miles ago.

2001 Windstar LX - 45k miles

tmant

My gas gauge just stopped working this weekend. It says that its empty when I had just refilled the day before. I went to a gas station to make sure I didn't somehow lose my gas (by theft or worse a leak!) and nope, it only took a few more gallons.

The guage will move to the below empty line when the car is on, and drops way down (as normal) when off. Is this how your gas guage is behaving? I'm curious if I'm also looking at about 500 just for that!

roadrascal

My 2001 (34,000 miles) is idling funny when in gear at a stop. It does the up and down idle between 700-900 rpms. Dealer replaced the IAC valve/ solenoid but the problem still exists. Anyone have any ideas? So far we have had the instrument cluster replaced (tach reading wrong), left headlamp replaced due to moisture, and part of the roof replaced due to paint peeling at the drip rails. Read about my '96 at http://www.geocities.com/tekyle2000/id46.htm (blown engine).

tylerapex

Yep, that is exactly what mine is doing. The gauge just sits below the empty line and the gas light stays on all the time. At the dealer, they told me it was some electronic thing that reports to the guage, but that they had to replace the whole fuel pump to fix it. Sounds fishy to me, but then again, I don't know much about cars.

crkeehn

In newer cars the fuel sending unit is incorporated into the fuel pump. If the sending unit fails, the fuel pump unit needs to be replaced to correct the problem.

mullins87

My wife recently went out and bought a '00 SE with 30k on it. I noticed a sticker on the air filter housing showing that the PCM had been recalibrated back in late April by our local dealership, the same one that sold her the van. She asked about the sticker and they told her it was just a reflash. Being a Superduty owner, I know Ford has gone through several generations on their Powerstroke diesel programming. Do any of you know if this reflash was just an upgrade to the programming or has there been problems with the '00 programs?

5greyhounds

I have a 2000 SEL that I got used in January and it also had the PCM re-calibrated. There was, from what I was told, a real problem with pinging on the 00 for some reason and the re-programming was the answer. I have had a ping or two but that is all. I would consider it more than an upgrade since most 00's have had it done.

tylerapex

Interesting...I just took my 2000 Windstar to the dealer and had them check out a pinging noise when using regular gas and they said that the intake gaskets and isolator bolts need to be replaced because air is not getting regulated correctly. Whatever...what do I know...except I'm not paying $500 to get a ping fixed that only happens when I put in regular gas. Does this sound like a legit fix to anyone?

ramou

Are you guys telling me that I should tell my wife to start using 89 or 93 octane instead of the 87 octane that she pumps. She believes that all gas is the same and the cheaper the gas, the more fuel she gets.

5greyhounds

Not I!!! Mine runs fine on 87 and I get about 21.5 MPG according to the computer. The fix sounds a little funky to me. As with most things, take it to another shop and get a second opinion.