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Ford Windstar Problems

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Comments

  • tmanttmant Posts: 70
    Wow, after almost 4 years of owning this van and thinking I had 5 gears! Wasn't until I noticed the same thing in my Elantra, but I knew it only had 4 gears. The same thing about the torque converter locking up was explained. I can sleep now!

    About the black transmission oil, you know the saying, once you go black, you'll never go back! LOL, sorry I couldn't help it. Something is defnitely wrong, though!

    ramou, you confused me. You said "So my advice is to drive the van on the highway for extended periods periodically to prevent that from happening" yet you also say running on the highway is what melts this part.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    By not starting, you mean the engine is cranking but not firing and runnning, rright? I just want to make sure you're talking about a no-start conditions and not a no-crank one. I think your stalling/not starting issues and surging idle problem will end up being caused by the same problem. The next question I have is: Has the check engine or MIL lamp come on? If so,then you need to have that code read and you'll have a good starting point to work from. My first suspect is a leaking intake gasket, because that is a common failure on all of Ford's late-model V-engines. Because the problem is temperature related, I am inclined to suspect something mechanical like that instead of electrical. Also could be an EGR valve sticking open, lots of other things. The door ajar light sounds like a misadjusted door switch. This is easy! To solve, just create the problem (make the light come on with your cargo in the van and all doors closed) then open each door (start with the tailgate and the sliding door) individually and press its door switch. Whichever one makes your light go out was the culprit. Now you'll either have a sticking switch (which can be lubed with WD-40, etc) or a misadjusted door than can be readjusted to strike the switch better. Good luck, please update us on the no-start problem.
  • haulthault Columbus OhioPosts: 130
    FYI FORD had a problem for years with an electrical part that when heated up would break the circuit causing the vehicle not to start. After cooling down the vehicle would start and run fine. Your best bet is to put a deposit down at the dealership and drive around with a "flight recorder" which should record the problem when it occurs.
  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    Sorry Tmant but I didn't mean to confuse you, I know that it's difficult to explain mechanical stuff on the internet than in person sometimes but let me try again. About that part that melts in the Windstar transmission that causes the tranny to go out: From the way that transmission specialist explained it to me, he said that if the van has a high mileage on it and mostly city mileage than highway then it will probably never go out as long as you continue driving it in the city traffic. But he said that when it has all that city mileage and you start to take it on the highway for extended periods at first is when the tranny breaks down because that part that only works in the highway driving setting hasn't been exercised often and now all of the sudden it has to work hard after all that time, causing it to break down and basically melt. He described the way it breaks down as that you could be on the highway for 3 hours and when u pull in the exit or come to a stop and you start to go again, the tranny doesn't go anywhere, which is how some people with transmission break downs described it to be. He said that usually happens when people buy a used van that was mostly being driven in city and now the "2nd" owner does a lot of highway driving. I know that it sucks because ther's no way of knowing this or even preventing it even if you knew it. Now keep in mind that he said that this happens with "most" of those transmissions. But it can still happen with someone that drives the van both equally on the highway and the city, you just never know with those transmissions which I think is why they have such a high failure rate. My advice is to exercise the van on the highway little by little until that part gets addapted to the highway driving and also service the transmission, change the filter and use Mercon, also for your info the transmission pan gasket on that transmission is a permenant gasket that usually doesn't need to be replaced so make sure the shop doesn't throw it away as it's a $50 gasket from what I understand. I hope this clears out some of the confussion as I tried to explain it the best i could. I'm not the expert but I'm just relaying what he told me, I have a 99 Windstar with 70,000 and I'm always interested on understanding what causes things to break down in that van, especially mechanical stuff.
  • bk3187bk3187 Posts: 2
    Regarding questions... The car turns over, but will not fire....or....fires as long as you have the gas pedal depressed. (Move your foot to the brake and the car dies). There is no Check Engine light or code.

    I went by the Ford dealer this morning with the intent of leaving the van, but the service writer was candid that without a code he was only guessing. He suggested it could be the Idle Control Motor, several different valves, and even the fuel pump. To his credit, he was hesitant to start replacing things without more info. He suggested a couple of diagnostic tests...Next time it happens, turn on the ignition and wait about 15 sec before cranking to check for fuel pump bleed back. ...Second...tap the Idle Control Motor and retry. ...Third...tow it into the dealer real quick before it can be started back up (hmmmmmm).

    I followed up with a call to my regular mechanics to ask about the Idle Control Motor. As luck would have it, one of the guys consistently experienced the same problem on his Explorer. He indicated that the problem went away when he cleaned the ICM. I am going to clean or replace the ICM and let you know how it ends up.

    Re. the door switch....where the heck are the door switches? I have looked all over for the traditional switches but I cannot find them. I thought it might be incorporated in the latch mechanism.

    Thanks for the comments........Bill
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    "Re. the door switch....where the heck are the door switches? I have looked all over for the traditional switches but I cannot find them. I thought it might be incorporated in the latch mechanism."

    Shucks I don't know. I don't actually own a Windstar. I think you're in line for a Haynes manual at Autozone. Theyre only $15, and if you only learn one thing, then it's paid for itself. I guarantee Haynes will show the door switch locations. Shoot, every new Ford should come with a bonus Haynes manual! Sounds like you're on the right track with the stalling problem, you made the right move by not leaving it at the dealership: mechanics have a lot of ways of hinting that "I don't really want to work on your vehicle." I guess he had too many $30 oil changes lined up. Sheesh.
  • I had a similar problem with my '00 Windstar. It would start, but would cut off once I took my foot off the accelerator. Once it ran for awhile with my foot on the accelerator, it would stay on, but was kind of random. It turned out that the idle control valve needed to be replaced and that fixed the problem.
  • al_chanal_chan Posts: 5
    Hi folks:
    Since I refill the freon (about 2.8 lbs) on my windstar, the car been acting funny.
    1. Started the engine, no problem (rpm about 600)
    2. put on max a/c no problem (rpm about 600)
    3. put on R, with brake on, the rpm goes up and down (500 - 900 rpm).
    4. release the brake and the car will jerk
    5. Put on D, same as R, (rpm 500 - 900)
    6. Put on P, the rpm stablize
    7. Drive for a short while, the rpm stablize (about 700 rpm)
    Anyone had this problem before and how do you fix it????
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    A few years ago I owned a Taurus and Sable wagon. One had a 3.0 liter V6 and the other had the 3.8 liter V6. Both eventually experienced random hot starting/stalling problems that were cured by changing the fuel pumps. I tried several other things before doing that. The fuel pressure was ok, but the fuel volume delivery was not enough to overcome a "vapor lock" condition. After having the fuel pumps changed, both cars ran fine until I sold them at about 150 K on them. Hope this helps. The Windstar engine could be causing you a similar problem.
  • tmanttmant Posts: 70
    That explanation made more sense, thanks. I mostly drive to work, about 20 miles each way in rush hour traffic. I occaisionally go out of town about 200 miles each way. This is not good since I have not yet noticed anything strange. Unless you count when my transmission did fail at about 62k.

    My rpms fluctuates just a bit when putting into gear. It drops 100-200 rpms and jumps up about 300-400 rpms all within one second and stays stable. I suspect your transmission may be starting to fail you.
  • Regarding the rpm fluctuating - my Brokenstar has identical symtoms - scary when in parking lot. Thought it was just me. I had the ignition control module (ICM)replaced at 115k in June - you by chance didn't happen to have yours replaced too recently? Could be a crummy ICM.

    Regarding gas mileage - I do get about 22-24 mpg city and highway - and I zoom at the limit or more. Only positive thing I can say about this car.

    I wrote the "yellow paint" article back in June. Almost felt compelled to try and drive it for a few thousand miles to get my $1000 repair out of it. So far 5000 miles more - but next breakdown it goes to Fox Valley Scrap Iron and Metal a few blocks away, kind of a Lenten thing for doing a good deed - even if at a loss - to prevent some other good soul from experiencing painful financial agony.

    It is approaching death - shuddering tranny, bad left ball joint, bent tie rods, rotted out exhaust, fluctuating idle, one remaining functional door lock (darn it - nobody will steal this thing even with the doors/windows/and keys in it all summer long...).

    Looking forward to its final shredding. No tears will be shed here.

    steve (not the host)
  • askjaskj Posts: 1
    For the most part, I love my Windstar, it has been a reliable vehicle. I now have about 185m km on it.
    I have had some electrical problems, radio came on when the van was off and key out, wipers worked while the van was off and the key was out. Interior lights came on intermittently when the van was off. There was a control switch in the steering column with a short and once replaced these items were resolved.
    I do have an electrical problem left: the driver and passenger power windows operate anytime. The ignition is off and key out and they will still work. Has anyone had any experience with this ? Where do I begin to look. Chilton's does not have wiring diagrams for this.
    Any suggestions ?
    Thanks, John
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Does anyone in Canada carry the Haynes line of manuals? They are generally a huge improvement over Chitlin's, and usually have wiring diagrams near the back of the book.
  • After a few miles of highway driving my over drive off light starts flashing in the dash. I took it to the shop and was told the alternator was bad. I took the alternator to be tested at an auto shop and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have been driving this way for quite awhile. One theory given to me is misaligned speed sensors?
    Am I doing any damage to the van to continue driving? Is this an alternator problem or a transmission problem? Could it be a wiring problem? Once in a blue moon my ABS light has come on also. Thanks
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    Interesting. But Ford - as most other - has a feature that 10 minutes after shutting off the engine, the radio will work, all power windows still work, until any door is open, or it's past the 10 minutes, when the battery-saver shuts everything off.

    Ford (at-least mine 2002) has an advantage over others that it brings the wipers down if you turn off the engine while the wipers are engaged and are in any position, this is on both the front & rear wipers.

    Also when you turn off the engine and take out the keys, the interior lights come on automatically. If you put back the key, it turns off. It's a convenience feature.

    But if your's is working more than 10 minutes, or even after a door is opened, you should check this out, or the battery-saver feature...

    Wish you good luck. Very happy to hear that this vehicle was reliable.
  • I had the same problem on my '00 Windstar with the O/D off light blinking intermittently. I was told by the Ford dealer that the speed sensor needed to be replaced. I had it replaced and the light stopped blinking. I'm not really sure what problems with a speed sensor will cause you though, but since it was tranmission-related, I didn't want to take a chance.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Did the shop retrieve the codes? Any time a diagnostic light comes on on the dash a code has been set that can be retrieved with the proper scan tool. I don't believe they would have concluded the alternator is bad from a transmission code. Plus the intermittent ABS light makes me lean towards a bad speed sensor, too. I think you need to have a talk with your shop, and if you don't think they're competent, then try somewhere else.
  • billbrbillbr Posts: 1
    I'm new to the town-hall, but enjoyed lurking for a while. I bought a 95 new. I've had all of the problems mentioned (engine, trans, speedo, sensors, electrical, suspension, etc..) Now the transmission is grinding. Trade in is $3400 for one that is good (is there such a thing?) Purchase price was $23,500. Over the life of the vehicle it has had $14,000 in engines and transmissions, $6000 in miscellaneous repairs and now the coup de gras... ~3500 to replace the transmission again. Hooray! I spend $47,000 for a royal pain in the pocket book. I am going to be rid of this crap ASAP. Never mind that it has 140,000 miles on it. (Maybe. The speedometer never has worked well)

    One footnote that you other WS owners will appreciate. I called my private mechanic about the trans and explained the noise. He just said "You know I don't do transmissions, call ---". So I called them and said "Hello. I have a 95 Windstar that..." at which point he interrupted and said with a small laugh, "You don't have to say anything more. I'll give you towing directions."

    I quit dealing with Ford directly when my extended warranty expired at 100K. I tried 12 dealerships in a 100 mile radius and only found one that I thought cared about my issues. Unfortunately, that dealership is 75 miles from here and the usual problem with the WS yields a inoperative car.

    First and last Ford for me.
  • ehavenehaven Posts: 1
    Yet another sad story. I bought my 1997 Windstar used after the dealer assured me that "the old problems with the head gaskets aren't an issue anymore. We fixed that problem." Well, at 82,200 miles, guess what? Blown! This will cost me between $1500-$2000 to have repaired (assuming the whole engine isn't shot)! After reading the testimonies of several hundred other Windstar owners with the same problem, I thought "they're a big company-they'll do the right thing." What responses did I get from my dealer-as well as from Ford Motor Company itself upon asking for assistence?:
    "Too bad you didn't buy the extended warranty"
    "Sometimes these things happen"
    "You must have been abusing the motor"
    "What do you want me to do about it?"
    "What did you expect with such a high-mileage vehicle?" Etc.

    A quick lesson for the uninitiated. Head gaskets are considered a non-servicable part, and are expected to last the life of the vehicle (assuming you do the scheduled oil changes and coolant flushes). This should not have happened at 82K. The cause is the fact that the Ford 3.8L V6 is a flawed designed-and Ford is totally unwilling to own up to this fact. My advice to anyone shopping for a Windstar is simple: Don't Do It!
  • tmanttmant Posts: 70
    There was a recall for my 2000 SE on the delayed power accessories not turning off after 10 minutes or the first door opening. I never experienced the problem, but even after the 'fix' with the recall, I can simulate the same thing.

    If you leave the key in the accessory position (down from lock) and leave it in for say 5 minutes. You can then remove the key and everything will still function. Put the car to on and removing the key will reset it and everything will turn off again.

    Anyway, you may want to see if your van is part of that recall.
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    I have a minor problem with my 2002 Windstar. Sometimes the right side rear quarter window will not open. I have to try a few times, then it "wakes up" and start function like normal. Thus happens about once every week.

    Any ideas?
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    Your '95 Windstar is a first year model - which is not good even should it be a Toyota.

    Even though Ford is not known as a reliable car maker, they're not this bad anymore. They're improving now, and with the new 2004 Freestar all the engine and transmission problems are gone - at least this what's they say.
  • I have a '99 Windstar SEL. No real problems so far, I've got 55,000 miles on it.

    I did manage to break the passenger side mirror though. The mirror itself is cracked and a piece of the black plastic guard around it is broken off. I got a replacement mirror (just the mirror, not the whole mirror assembly), but I can't figure out how to get the other one off. I've removed the entire mirror assmebly from the car. Presumably there is some way to take it apart from there, but I can't see how. It looks like the plastic is one single piece with no way to remove the mirror itself and replace it. Anyone know how to do this? Maybe there's some special tool I need, I don't know. I don't want to replace the whole thing because that's like $150. The mirror itself was just $20.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I busted the mirror housing on my '99 Quest - the Quest used a lot of Ford parts, so maybe it's a similar design. If so, you're probably about done with taking it apart! I put epoxy on mine to hold it together and it holds up for a couple of years at a time.

    The mirror is often glued on so maybe some heat will loosen it so you can pry it off from the housing. If you get stuck, try an auto glass store for help.

    Steve, Host
  • sa0967sa0967 Posts: 1
    I just bought my wife a 2003 SE. Has anyone had any problems with this year and model. As much up front help I can get will be helpful to look for. She only puts about 10K a year on her Cars and babys them. Always dealer maintained. Thanks.
  • ginmomginmom Posts: 1
    My husband and I bought a 96 windstar totally decked with all the extras anticpating that it would be our last vehicle for years. unfortunately within the first year we had already replaced the brakes every 3 -4 months. We found out that the windstar is too heavy for the frame of a taurus. In addition if you live on any type of hill it adds to the problmen. To fix it we were told ford has a new brake package that costs around 2 thousand. Since then we have replaced just about everything in the car. 1 engine, 2 trans, senors, head gaskets, batteries, windshield, fuel pumps etc. I've read that some people have also had problems with windshields all of a sudden cracking. We realize now that ford doesn't care about its customers. They know they have a problem but their attitude is pure neglectful and deceitful. We will be trading this car in soon if the check engine light doesn't go off again. Within the last 9 months we've spent over 3grand in repairs and this is typical of the yearly repairs. ps. the car has only 97K miles. unfortunately we love the way it handles and the interior. But the cost to own way exceeds this van's good points. we will never buy another ford product ever.
  • notlemnotlem Posts: 2
    Ford replaced complete engine at 55k miles because of head gaskets. Less than 50k miles later both head gaskets blew again. We had a local mechanic do the repairs and when test driving the ABS activates a low speeds such as <10 mph. It will activate going straight or turning either direction, however turning left is the most frequent and NO faults or lights come on. The local mechanics has checked all over, I have taken it to Ford to have it scanned and all four wheel sensors are ok? HELP?? Its back at Ford waiting to get checked out again Monday, ANY suggestions or experiences similar.
    Thanks
    notlem
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I still wouldn't rule out a wheel sensor. Just because they don't set a code doesn't mean one isn't malfunctioning. They can break or slip off their retainers and make the ABS module think that a wheel is locked. It may come down to disassembling each wheel sensor and examining it.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I assume someone checked the tires and one isn't vastly more worn than the others??
  • haulthault Columbus OhioPosts: 130
    I purchased one new and now have 31,000 miles. Had air conditioner o rings replaced and transmission seals replaced under factory warranty. I have 6/60 extended warranty and suggest you buy extended warranty if available. It will more than pay for its cost. The transmission is my main concern.
  • jay238jay238 Posts: 13
    My 95 Windstar is approaching 181,000 miles. Hopefully, I can reach 200k and show my friends it IS possible with a first model Windstar. No problems on it except for the head gasket recall and some minor interior things (vents, knobs) breaking. Power steering pump making some noise, may need replacement. Continues to do city, highway driving and hauling stuff. I know many of you hate 95s, but I gotta reach my goal of over 200k!
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    My 1998 Windstar had a similar ABS problem. At first just a pulse as you come to a stop. I had the right rear wheel speed sensor replaced and adjusted. Problem was gone for about 20 miles, then the ABS light came on (1st time). Brake shop could find no problem. They tried adjusting the wheel speed sensor again with no luck. I took it to Ford and they said the ABS computer is bad.....After re-ordering the computer 3 times and 10 days later, Ford "fixed" it to the tune of $1400. (Thank God I had bought an extended warranty). Keep in mind I was in the process of trying to sell the Crapstar when this problem started. I went to pick up the van at Ford and the pulsing started again within 10 miles. They re-adjusted the gap on all wheel speed sensors again, and that problem so far has been fixed. Still trying to sell it...dropping the price $500 every week with no lookers. My wife drove it the other day and the O/D light started flashing and the engine light came on without any driveability symptoms (runs great!). Autozone scanned the computer and it is a fault with the turbine shaft speed sensor. I'm going to try and put this on soon. I've given up trying to sell it. We'll just keep it as a backup....we never had any problem with it until I tried to sell it at 93K miles.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Beware of the dealer who quickly pronounces your ABS module (computer) dead. They love to replace those things, but they're rarely the cause of the problem. Ford ABS modules run anywhere from $500-$1000 new. Most often a wheel sensor is broken, misadjusted, or has a wiring short. Like flacko's situation, the $1400 ABS module replacement didn't solve the problem, it was just an easy guess for the dealer. Only after they "re-adjusted" the sensors (which probably meant re-inspected more closely and actually found the problem) did his problem go away.
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    Yes, I agree...the ABS computer most likely was not the true cause. Ford claims that they could not get the ABS computer to communicate. I do consulting work for TRW (where they make the ABS computers) and I was at that plant about a week after I got the van back from Ford. My contact there said ABS computers rarely fail. He even offered to give me one practically free if I ever need another one in the future. Well at least I had the warranty and it only cost me $50 (at Ford). I spend about another $200 at the first brake shop. If I hadn't been trying to sell the van, I would have just lived with it. One of my other vehicles is an 86 Dodge pickup, with a carburetor, no ABS, no computer..runs good only 50K miles. I love that vehicle because I can still work on it easily and it's not $250 to $800 every time you have to fix it.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    CNN is reporting a recall concerning rear seat latches. Wouldn't hurt to check your latches until you get your letter.

    Steve, Host
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    The on-going saga of my 98 windstar that did not develop any problems until I tried to sell it. Less than 20 miles after getting it back from the Ford dealer who fixed an ABS computer problem, the check engine light came on and the O/D light started flashing. The van however, seemed to drive normally. Took it to Autozone to have the code retrieved. The result was code 0715 referring to the turbine shaft speed sensor on the tranny. Bought the shop manual and used diagrams from Alldata to find that sensor. After removing the left front wheel, I discovered the two wires leading to the sensor had been cut right where they snuck through the side of the wire bundle. Interesting because it looked like a clean cut. Note that the van had only been driven about 6 miles home from the Ford dealer, parked for 2 weeks, then driven about 5 miles before these lights came on. I called Ford to see if their tech could've have accidently bumped it, of course they claim no. Anyway, I spliced the wires back together (solder and shrink tubing) and the problem is fixed. My Alldata subscription for $20/year paid off because it showed me the exact location of that sensor. How the wires got cut still remains a mystery because I had no lights come on when I drove the van home from Ford.
  • I'm planning a long trip in my '95 Windstar and would like to be able to plug in a 9" portable T.V/VCR combo, and a PS2 Game System, using a "Whistler 400 Watt DC to AC" Inverter. Can the car take this or do I need to get some accessory to handle the extra electrical load that these two devices working together will require? I'm planning to simply plug the Whistler converter into the DC outlet that's located down and to the right of the center console and then plug the two devices into the converter.
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    I have a 98 Windstar, and I've used a PS-2 and a 9" TV plugged in to an inverter. I think we used the lighter plug in the left rear (middle row) and it worked ok. If the fuse blows, then I would try one inverter in the front lighter and one in the middle row since they will be on two different circuits.
  • The power steering fludin on my 1998 Ford Windstar is getting dirty. I had it changed and the steering is not as easy as it used to be. I was wondering if steering problems are common and what the cause is or if this is just something that happens. Thanks.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Check for leaks and listen for unusual noises when turning the wheel while stopped. Could be something as simple as a loose drive belt, or a pump that's going bad. I don't know of "common" steering fluid problems with the Windstar.
  • I have a 1996 Ford Windstar with just under 88,000 miles on it. I really started noticing a clunking in the front end about 1 year ago. I'm not sure if it's the front end suspension or something with the steering. I just spent $850 for all the front end fluids to be changed, filters changed, the tie rod ends and ball joints changed (the mechanic said it was a common problem). He showed me the parts when done and they were in some real bad shape. The noise was back after 2 weeks of operation. Two weeks ago, we had a cold weekend in which the van sat all weekend but when I went to start it, it started very rough, the check engine light was flashing and now it's on constantly. The battery is less than 2 years old. I also noticed that I could smell some antifreeze since the work was done but there's no indication of any leaking (no dripping under the van) and I'm occasionally hearing a "whining" noise when the van's running. Any thoughts anyone?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Guess what folks, it's head gasket weather. First cold snaps of the winter and those gaskets that have been slowly leaking all summer finally shrink, pop and give up the ghost one cold November morning. Back to that in minute.
    As far as your clunking problem, when exactly does the clunk occur? Turning, stopping, applying power, etc. Could be anything from an engine mount to loose strut towers.
    OK, back to the bad news. I would bet money your rough running, check engine light, and anitfreeze smell are from blown head and/or intake gaskets. Have you been losing coolant for a period of time? Check your engine oil dipstick for discolored yellow/green/milky deposits. Even if it looks OK, I would have the oil analyzed just to be safe. You can also have a pressure test done on the motor to isolate leaking cylinders. If you do end up having to get new gaskets, you'll need new head, intake and timing cover gaskets plus head and intake bolts. That job plus the front end repairs will darn near come close to what that van is worth, and that's assuming the engine is worth salvaging. I hope I'm wrong and it ends up being something simple, but if I'm right you might consider how much more $$$ you want to sink into that Windstar, man. Good luck. BTW, do a search for "Winstar head gasket" on Edmunds for more info.
  • I have a 1995 Windstar LX. The problem I have is, the van fog&#146;s up, even if I set the controls on defrost, I have to put the blower (Front and Back) at the max setting and it still takes forever to defrost. I have looked at the AC compressor to see if it comes on when the switch is moved to the defrost position, and it dose, but it looks like it might not stay on long enough. Any ideas

    Thanks
  • Well I more than broke even on the extended warranty on my '99 Windstar with just today's bills. No hot air from the heater---broken blend door. "All day job to replace"..$1400. Also repair leaking axle seals $250. Add to that the $500 they spent on other things just 3000 miles ago, and I wonder if the warranty company would like to buy the thing from me in order to save money!
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Is there a sugary or sweet smell when the windows fog? If so you may have a leaking heater core. If the A/C compressor is cycling off too much, you may have a bad ground wire or other bad wiring.
  • My 95 Windstar door warning went off yesturday. We rechecked all doors. Not the problem. Now the lights stay on even after the engine is turned off. Had to disconnect battery overnight. My guess is that the sliding door system finally died completely. It hasn't worked without a key for awhile. What do you think?
  • I've just discovered this forum. I've done all of my own "simple" work for many years now; I am also a voracious reader & collector of tech info. Here are answers to some of the above noted comments/problems:
    wijoco & flaco: many thanks for the ABS info
    flaco & everyone: Alldata information will pay you back triple/quadruple & more than what you pay for it (US$25).
    vanwoman: when changing power steering fluid, you must use Ford fluid, Mercon 5 I believe.
    mikejojo: front end clunking is covered in TSB's 97-26-14 and 97-26-24, both published in December 1997. I also have part of a TSB here (12/22/97 which may be superceded by 1 of the above 2 I mentioned) which pin points a loose front tension strut bushing retainer in the sub-frame. I strongly suspect your problem is here. Welding a piece in place, may be necessary.
    4wheels1: 99's have a weak blend door prone to warping. Your problem could have been just the door being warped, or its little actuator (motor with an arm). In either case its not a difficult repair. Suggest your dealer replaced the whole unit.
    cgennaro: interior lights remain on-door ajar warning light does not go off! This is usually rectified by spraying the black plastic door switches (approx 3"x2 1/4")with WD 40. They are somewhat diamond shaped. 99's & above have 2 on the tailgate. 98's & older have those 2 plus 1 on the rear of the sliding door. These proximity switches have a square sliding part to them. Make sure they are somewhat clean & well lubricated with WD 40.
    Hope some of this helps someone. Cheers from the frozen North (we're having a snow storm right now)
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    just needed a new tranny in my 00, only had 39.5K miles and 3 1/2 years on it! I have the ext warranty so it wasn't a total disaster. Dealer said it cost $3800 to put my new one in. They had to do it twice as the first replacement unit didn't fit!

     I know the 95s had tranny problems, are the 00 affected by the same problem or different?

    Also, does anyone know if I can extend my ext warranty????
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    cptplt, glad you got it taken care of without eating the full cost! You might want to take your extended-extended warranty question to our Finance, Warranty & Insurance board for advice.

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  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Best thing to do is reconnect the battery, close all the doors, then open each front door and rear hatch individually, testing each switch. To test, pull the rubbber boot off the door close switch, spray it with WD40 or similar, then manually press the button to see if the light goes out. If after testing all but the sliding door the warning never went off, you know it's the sliding door switch. How to disconnect that I'm not sure, you may have to chase some wires.
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