Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Ford Windstar Problems
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
About the black transmission oil, you know the saying, once you go black, you'll never go back! LOL, sorry I couldn't help it. Something is defnitely wrong, though!
ramou, you confused me. You said "So my advice is to drive the van on the highway for extended periods periodically to prevent that from happening" yet you also say running on the highway is what melts this part.
I went by the Ford dealer this morning with the intent of leaving the van, but the service writer was candid that without a code he was only guessing. He suggested it could be the Idle Control Motor, several different valves, and even the fuel pump. To his credit, he was hesitant to start replacing things without more info. He suggested a couple of diagnostic tests...Next time it happens, turn on the ignition and wait about 15 sec before cranking to check for fuel pump bleed back. ...Second...tap the Idle Control Motor and retry. ...Third...tow it into the dealer real quick before it can be started back up (hmmmmmm).
I followed up with a call to my regular mechanics to ask about the Idle Control Motor. As luck would have it, one of the guys consistently experienced the same problem on his Explorer. He indicated that the problem went away when he cleaned the ICM. I am going to clean or replace the ICM and let you know how it ends up.
Re. the door switch....where the heck are the door switches? I have looked all over for the traditional switches but I cannot find them. I thought it might be incorporated in the latch mechanism.
Thanks for the comments........Bill
Shucks I don't know. I don't actually own a Windstar. I think you're in line for a Haynes manual at Autozone. Theyre only $15, and if you only learn one thing, then it's paid for itself. I guarantee Haynes will show the door switch locations. Shoot, every new Ford should come with a bonus Haynes manual! Sounds like you're on the right track with the stalling problem, you made the right move by not leaving it at the dealership: mechanics have a lot of ways of hinting that "I don't really want to work on your vehicle." I guess he had too many $30 oil changes lined up. Sheesh.
Since I refill the freon (about 2.8 lbs) on my windstar, the car been acting funny.
1. Started the engine, no problem (rpm about 600)
2. put on max a/c no problem (rpm about 600)
3. put on R, with brake on, the rpm goes up and down (500 - 900 rpm).
4. release the brake and the car will jerk
5. Put on D, same as R, (rpm 500 - 900)
6. Put on P, the rpm stablize
7. Drive for a short while, the rpm stablize (about 700 rpm)
Anyone had this problem before and how do you fix it????
My rpms fluctuates just a bit when putting into gear. It drops 100-200 rpms and jumps up about 300-400 rpms all within one second and stays stable. I suspect your transmission may be starting to fail you.
Regarding gas mileage - I do get about 22-24 mpg city and highway - and I zoom at the limit or more. Only positive thing I can say about this car.
I wrote the "yellow paint" article back in June. Almost felt compelled to try and drive it for a few thousand miles to get my $1000 repair out of it. So far 5000 miles more - but next breakdown it goes to Fox Valley Scrap Iron and Metal a few blocks away, kind of a Lenten thing for doing a good deed - even if at a loss - to prevent some other good soul from experiencing painful financial agony.
It is approaching death - shuddering tranny, bad left ball joint, bent tie rods, rotted out exhaust, fluctuating idle, one remaining functional door lock (darn it - nobody will steal this thing even with the doors/windows/and keys in it all summer long...).
Looking forward to its final shredding. No tears will be shed here.
steve (not the host)
I have had some electrical problems, radio came on when the van was off and key out, wipers worked while the van was off and the key was out. Interior lights came on intermittently when the van was off. There was a control switch in the steering column with a short and once replaced these items were resolved.
I do have an electrical problem left: the driver and passenger power windows operate anytime. The ignition is off and key out and they will still work. Has anyone had any experience with this ? Where do I begin to look. Chilton's does not have wiring diagrams for this.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks, John
Am I doing any damage to the van to continue driving? Is this an alternator problem or a transmission problem? Could it be a wiring problem? Once in a blue moon my ABS light has come on also. Thanks
Ford (at-least mine 2002) has an advantage over others that it brings the wipers down if you turn off the engine while the wipers are engaged and are in any position, this is on both the front & rear wipers.
Also when you turn off the engine and take out the keys, the interior lights come on automatically. If you put back the key, it turns off. It's a convenience feature.
But if your's is working more than 10 minutes, or even after a door is opened, you should check this out, or the battery-saver feature...
Wish you good luck. Very happy to hear that this vehicle was reliable.
One footnote that you other WS owners will appreciate. I called my private mechanic about the trans and explained the noise. He just said "You know I don't do transmissions, call ---". So I called them and said "Hello. I have a 95 Windstar that..." at which point he interrupted and said with a small laugh, "You don't have to say anything more. I'll give you towing directions."
I quit dealing with Ford directly when my extended warranty expired at 100K. I tried 12 dealerships in a 100 mile radius and only found one that I thought cared about my issues. Unfortunately, that dealership is 75 miles from here and the usual problem with the WS yields a inoperative car.
First and last Ford for me.
"Too bad you didn't buy the extended warranty"
"Sometimes these things happen"
"You must have been abusing the motor"
"What do you want me to do about it?"
"What did you expect with such a high-mileage vehicle?" Etc.
A quick lesson for the uninitiated. Head gaskets are considered a non-servicable part, and are expected to last the life of the vehicle (assuming you do the scheduled oil changes and coolant flushes). This should not have happened at 82K. The cause is the fact that the Ford 3.8L V6 is a flawed designed-and Ford is totally unwilling to own up to this fact. My advice to anyone shopping for a Windstar is simple: Don't Do It!
If you leave the key in the accessory position (down from lock) and leave it in for say 5 minutes. You can then remove the key and everything will still function. Put the car to on and removing the key will reset it and everything will turn off again.
Anyway, you may want to see if your van is part of that recall.
Any ideas?
Even though Ford is not known as a reliable car maker, they're not this bad anymore. They're improving now, and with the new 2004 Freestar all the engine and transmission problems are gone - at least this what's they say.
I did manage to break the passenger side mirror though. The mirror itself is cracked and a piece of the black plastic guard around it is broken off. I got a replacement mirror (just the mirror, not the whole mirror assembly), but I can't figure out how to get the other one off. I've removed the entire mirror assmebly from the car. Presumably there is some way to take it apart from there, but I can't see how. It looks like the plastic is one single piece with no way to remove the mirror itself and replace it. Anyone know how to do this? Maybe there's some special tool I need, I don't know. I don't want to replace the whole thing because that's like $150. The mirror itself was just $20.
The mirror is often glued on so maybe some heat will loosen it so you can pry it off from the housing. If you get stuck, try an auto glass store for help.
Steve, Host
Thanks
notlem
Steve, Host
As far as your clunking problem, when exactly does the clunk occur? Turning, stopping, applying power, etc. Could be anything from an engine mount to loose strut towers.
OK, back to the bad news. I would bet money your rough running, check engine light, and anitfreeze smell are from blown head and/or intake gaskets. Have you been losing coolant for a period of time? Check your engine oil dipstick for discolored yellow/green/milky deposits. Even if it looks OK, I would have the oil analyzed just to be safe. You can also have a pressure test done on the motor to isolate leaking cylinders. If you do end up having to get new gaskets, you'll need new head, intake and timing cover gaskets plus head and intake bolts. That job plus the front end repairs will darn near come close to what that van is worth, and that's assuming the engine is worth salvaging. I hope I'm wrong and it ends up being something simple, but if I'm right you might consider how much more $$$ you want to sink into that Windstar, man. Good luck. BTW, do a search for "Winstar head gasket" on Edmunds for more info.
Thanks
wijoco & flaco: many thanks for the ABS info
flaco & everyone: Alldata information will pay you back triple/quadruple & more than what you pay for it (US$25).
vanwoman: when changing power steering fluid, you must use Ford fluid, Mercon 5 I believe.
mikejojo: front end clunking is covered in TSB's 97-26-14 and 97-26-24, both published in December 1997. I also have part of a TSB here (12/22/97 which may be superceded by 1 of the above 2 I mentioned) which pin points a loose front tension strut bushing retainer in the sub-frame. I strongly suspect your problem is here. Welding a piece in place, may be necessary.
4wheels1: 99's have a weak blend door prone to warping. Your problem could have been just the door being warped, or its little actuator (motor with an arm). In either case its not a difficult repair. Suggest your dealer replaced the whole unit.
cgennaro: interior lights remain on-door ajar warning light does not go off! This is usually rectified by spraying the black plastic door switches (approx 3"x2 1/4")with WD 40. They are somewhat diamond shaped. 99's & above have 2 on the tailgate. 98's & older have those 2 plus 1 on the rear of the sliding door. These proximity switches have a square sliding part to them. Make sure they are somewhat clean & well lubricated with WD 40.
Hope some of this helps someone. Cheers from the frozen North (we're having a snow storm right now)
I know the 95s had tranny problems, are the 00 affected by the same problem or different?
Also, does anyone know if I can extend my ext warranty????
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews