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Ford Windstar Problems



  • themainmanthemainman Posts: 5
    My '00 Windstar has the larger 3.8(?) V6. Any problems towing a boat? 20ft....
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think weight is more an issue than length. We have a '97 w/ the 3.8 engine and tow a pop-up camper which weighs about 1200 pounds. Tongue weight may make a difference too, our camper is only about 125# tongue weight, if I remember correctly. The ride is not the best when towing, but other than that it has been okay.

    If I remember correctly tow limit is 2000#, but check your owners manual.
  • themainmanthemainman Posts: 5
    No owners manual and I have no idea on the weight. It's a fiberglass.....What is tongue weight?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    tongue weight is the weight that is supported by the trailer hitch on the car...rather than by the trailer wheels.

    My 1997 manual says 2000# maximum weight without towing package. 3500# if the vehicle is equipped with the towing package.
  • sharonysharony Posts: 7
    Actually I think I am having the same problem with my '00 Windstar. Yesterday I stopped at a light when all of the sudden my break pedal dropped just a little bit, immediately the ABS light when on and my AC started to blow warm air. When I started driving the speedometer was not working, but the odometer was. I do not know about the cruise control because I have never used it. But before all this happened, the mechanic changed the master cylinder the day before after the brake light came on and my brake fluid was getting low constantly. The mechanic changed a fuse, but keeps blowing off. Thanks to you guys now I can check if the master cylinder is leaking, hope is nothing major. Could there be another problem related to this issue besides the master cylinder leak?
    Thanks for your help is really appreciated,
  • sharonysharony Posts: 7
    I've been doing some research on the topic of blown fuse about the cruise control switch. I've read from other articles having this same problem, but they mentioned they resolved by changing cruise control switch or brake pressure switch. My question if anybody knows, are these two switch the same thing? People who has wrote the articles in other forums said the part cost less than $20, I called my local ford dealer and they ask for $98. Does this sounds ok?
    Please someone advise me. Thanks!!!!
  • neteosneteos Posts: 1
    Any body know what the problem
  • sharonysharony Posts: 7
    checked the contacts door. Around page 85 or somewhere around there somebody was having the same problem and sprayed wd40 on contacts and resolved the problem.
  • mehmetarikmehmetarik Posts: 2

    Did you find the problem ? I have a similar problem in my 1998. When I boguht last year transmission was done and I only have 10k additonal miles.

    Please let me know.


  • mehmetarikmehmetarik Posts: 2

    I have the same problem. In fact, my transmission ws done 1ok miles ago. please respond,
  • prguyprguy Posts: 1
    Hi there. I noticed that you changed all four oxygen sensors. I located only two on my wind star and can not find the other two. There was only two that I saw. One was in the front of the van and the other was near the the catalytic converter towards the front. If you could help me find the other two . Thanks a million. Email address is [email protected]
  • bonniemacbonniemac Posts: 1
    My 2000 Windstar developed a squealing noise a couple of days ago that has quickly become worse. Now I am losing power and it lurches. Anyone know what this may be?? HELP! I am hoping this will not be another major repair. :cry:

    I am so glad to see I am not the only one with a possessed Windstar. Our lights will flicker every once in a while and our door ajar light will stay on as well. I will be trying the tips I read here to see if I can remedy these things.
  • deadstardeadstar Posts: 3
    PLEASE PLEASE read older posts on this. The problem is anywhere from a $200 to $1200
    fix. There is a TSB from 2002 about this. Everyone will have this problem and it should be a recall. I believe there is a post from an aggresive consumer that had Ford pay for this. My fix cost me $600. LET's BITC... TO SOMEONE AT FORD!!!!!
    Thank You and have a nice day anyway.
    My Windstar doesn't run in the rain. Error code P0303. Wires and plugs changed $220 because you cannot get to them... AND IT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM!
  • klpierklpier Posts: 3
    Go to AutoZone and buy a hand held code reader. My check engine light would come on frequently. It has more than paid for itself in saved diagnostic charges. As I recall, I paid around $125 about 4 years ago. I have a '96 Windstar with 140K miles.
  • klpierklpier Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Windstar with 140,000 miles. When we changed the air filter, there was some anti-freeze in the intake. We changed the PCV valve and I haven't checked it since. Original engine and transmission. For any Ford diehards out there, this beauty is for sale.
  • harysonharyson Posts: 2
    I had the same problem and found out that the dealer belt is slightly larger than the one called out by ALL auto parts stores. Just get the next larger size belt and it will work fine. I actually managed to get the auto part store belt installed and the extra tension shredded it within 6 months. Do not force the belt tensioner, the pulley nut is soft and will round out easily. Save yourself the headache and get the next size larger belt.
  • nats1nats1 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! I'm now 2 for 2 in having to replace the transmission on my Ford Windstar vans....This time, the transmission quit while we were 1000 miles from home, so not only are we having to foot the bill for a new one, but we had additional costs just to get our family of six back home (or foot the bill for hotel and meals, plus lost work time!). I've just begun looking for information on the internet, and it seems as though there's lots of people with similar problems. Any advice as to possible solutions? Thanks!!
  • sharonysharony Posts: 7
    I've been reading about transmission problems for the windstar , are you guys sure that is the transmission or maybe the speed sensor. I had similar problems as been described and it came out to be the speed sensor which when it goes bad affects the transmission, it only cost me $80.00 and problem resolved.
  • malmrosemalmrose Posts: 1
    As the sole owner of my 98 Ford Windstar LX, I assumed replacing the fuel pump three times during warranty was the single engineering flaw with my vehicle. I was very wrong.

    At about 60,000 miles, the dome lights would not automatically shut off and had to be pulled out permanently to prevent the battery from draining.

    Around 65,000 miles, the "Service Engine Soon" light remained on permanently. The dealer could find no explanation for this condition.

    Around 70,000 miles, the passenger door power window stopped working. It goes down, but doesn't go back up!

    Around 75,000 miles, the cheap plastic hubcap covers began falling off each tire and were gone within a few months.

    Around 80,000 miles, the power steering began howling and leaking badly.

    Finally, at 92,000 miles, the head gasket blew and rendered the vehicle worthless, even though I religiously maintained fluid levels on the vehicle.

    Luckily, my 1997 Nissan Maxima with 100+ miles in perfect working order will be able to tranport me to my next auto purchase.

    And it won't be a Ford product.
  • fwindstarfwindstar Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this problem resolved?

    I have a 2003 Ford Windstar that also is blowing the same dash fuse!

  • gdabgdab Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem. The blown fuses were accompanied by the ABS light being on, no AC and no cruse control. The cause of the problem was traced to a faulty cruse control switch. Once replaced the problems went away. The prpblem with the dealership is that their first step is to do their OBD diagnostic at the falt ~$75 fee. The switch itself costs less than $20.
    It's almost cheaper to buy and replace the switch yourself to see if this cures the problem...
  • bavebave Posts: 3
    I also tow a bass fish and ski boat; nothing above average. I plan on putting in my own transmission radiator ($30.00 at the parts store with a $6.00 converter kit) to keep the transmission cooler during towing. You can have this done at U-haul for $150.00.

  • bavebave Posts: 3
    My 2001 Windstar began a noticable noise while running in the rain tonight; not quite a squealing but a noise when the van was engaged in gear. Anything, Anything?
  • bavebave Posts: 3
    Anyone lose a controle switch to a power seat adjuster on a Windstar-2001. Mine seems to have went out. It will go forward (although I dont test it because I am quickly losing leg space) but not back or up?
  • keriwkeriw Posts: 1
    Doors are all closed interior lights stay on as well as indicator for door open. not sure exactly where the contacts are on the back door.
  • windratswindrats Posts: 1
    '99 LX 93K Mi same problem here, it won't pass smog which cost me $843 ouch...from a local dealer. here's there correction: replaced intake manifold gaskets, isolator bolts, valve cover, and recal PCM. $200 for the parts and the rest you can figure out. this was in April 2005, since then the front fan motor broke (started smoking), $485 for the part, apparently the whole assembly (left and right fans) has to be purchase, just can't buy the motor, that's ford for you.

    needless to say this is my first and last ford vehicle, against my better judgement and family and friends.
  • kseguinkseguin Posts: 1
    Get back to us. Spent $2100.00 at Healy Ford today replacing the whole front end on a 2002 Windstar. P*ssed right off with the lousy service and lack of respect and concern about a crappy product.


    [email protected]
  • This light is NOT FUNNY!!!
    If oil level is checked to be ok there is only one really important thing!
    Check the CMP sensor! Please believe me!
    This sensor is not only for the fuel injection system!
    It drives the oil pump too!

    But the pinion of the CMP used to get worn and so there won't be any oil pressure any more, resulting in a damaged engine!
    Don't drive any miles longer, as long as you didn't check the CMP!

    Please let me know your results of checking CMP...
  • 1998 Windstar GL with 92K miles. The last few months we have noticed funny noises when we switch on the a/c. Now the rear a/c vents (in the roof) don't work and warm air comes out the heater vents (in the floor). I've been told that there is a vacuum activated "door" that opens and closes to direct the air to the appropriate vents. Is this something I can replace? Can a shop other than the dealer do it? I called the dealer and they said that it may be more complicated than just replacing a simple part. Anyone else have this problem?">
  • Did you check the engine support?

    I have had the same Problem and solved it by replacing the front engine support. :)
  • mialynnmialynn Posts: 1
    Search for TSB 03-16-1 (Service Bulletin).
  • toscanatoscana Posts: 5
    Hello--recently the driver's side manual sliding door on my '99 Windstar stopped opening. It opens about an inch then feels as if it's still latched and won't move further. I took it to the local Ford dealer for an estimate and they just looked puzzled, said they've never seen anything like it. They said it would take at least a couple of hours just to troubleshoot. I'm selling the car now and need to get that door in working order, so I took it to a body shop. The fellow there brought out a really long screwdriver, opened the door as far as it would go, then inserted the screwdriver in the lower, posterior gap. He managed to pop it open. The problem seems to be with the hook type catch mounted in the door frame, which latches to the opposing "U" on the door itself. (Sorry, I don't know the correct terminology.) For some reason, the catch is not releasing the "U", but I don't know if it's a mechanical or electrical problem. I did notice that when I started the car to drive away, there was a faint "ding dong" or chiming sound. Any suggestions? Since I'm selling the car, I don't want to invest more than I already have in this "Junkstar".
  • sharonysharony Posts: 7
    You are right. It came out that the brake pressure switch and the cruise control switch got brake fluid and that's why the fuse kept blowing off. I changed the brake pressure switch which cost me $15.23 and cleaned the cruise control switch with air pressure until I removed the brake fluid. Now everything is working perfect!!!!!
  • my winstar 1996 with 3.8l engine start to make strong knocking noise...but this noise is intermitent on the following condition.
    * when engine start until oil lanp get off ( 3 seconds)
    * when tranny in neutral and press gas pedal after 1800 rpm
    * when driven over 2,500 rpm
    * when going downhill and gas pedal completly at idle....

    on all condition oil lamp remain off and engine temp stay 1/4---1/2
    more than 3000 miles with exactly same condition
    engine shows strong power and not any funny sign ( like when crankshaft is worn out)

    can be the lifters??????
  • Thank you. I was hoping to get more replies from folks with 99s. But they all seem to have transmission problems!! I think it's time to get rid of it before all of these other problems listed on pages 88 -91 start happening to mine. It's too bad one cannot finish making payments on a vehicle and have some good years out of it before it starts failing and literally falling apart. :(
  • lakemenlakemen Posts: 2
    The door you seek is located under the same panel as the rear a/c -heat fan switch, It is a vacume valve that is not working( mechanically attached to the vent switch door). I fixed mine by simply moving the door by hand to allow a/c - heat to flow from the top vents at all times and Zipped tied the valve to remain in that position ( I live in Buffalo and was great this winter for heat). Now whether I have the heat or A/C on, It comes out the top vents. My children and passengers like this better, because they have more control over where to force the heat - A/C. Cost? a Nickel for a Zip tie ( big thick one) and 30 minutes of work!....... Better than the dealer cost of $537.00..... if they could have even figure it out?
  • parkeytparkeyt Posts: 1
    Last fall replaced the original Ford radio with a new am/fm/cd radio. Worked fine. All of the sudden it, while driving, it began to shutoff. After trying to fins the problem, it appeared to be related to heat in the van and/or heat in the dash when running the heat/ac. Thought it was the new radio and took it back for repair and re-instlled the old radio Guess what - problem continued. Everything that was new, was taken out and the old replaced it. Went abck tot he new and problem still continues.

    It is not that it loses power completely. When it comes back on, the station presets are there and you are on the station you were on.

    Baffling. Any thoughts?
  • selooseloo Posts: 606
    Check your intake manifold!
  • madzenmadzen Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Windstar and the 15a fuse in the 6 spot keeps blowing. This fuse covers the power to the sliding doors, the remote entry, teh CD and radio. Not the end of the world, but frustrating none the less. has anyone had the same problem or know of a solution?

  • Can anyone help with the above vehicle which has a problem of the manual climate control stays stuck on defrost or you can turn it off. It won't do anything else!
  • dtraderdtrader Posts: 1
    A while back the battery died on our 2000 Windstar. After recharging, everything seemed fine except now the TRAC OFF and ABS lights stay on. There does not appear to be any obvious problems (noises, leaks, etc) before or after the battery incident. We've been just ignoring the lights.

    I hate to take it to Ford if there is instead a way to simply reset the idiot lights. Or should this be something to worry about?

  • dchalkdchalk Posts: 3
    I can open door manually but not with overhead button or FOB. Once DS sliding door is open, I can close with FOB or overhead button. PS slider works fine.

    Any suggestions or cures?
  • Our 98 Windstar has about 110+ miles. The problem is when I slow down and stop at a red light...the van just putters out! I have to quickly put it in park then restart. Thank goodness I made it home. I did start putting it in neutral when I had to make a stop, then put it in drive when the traffic started moving. I just kept on giving it a little gas to keep the rpm's up. We just put a new battery in it last month. (We've did a new transmission at 68+) PLEASE if anyone could help troubleshoot it would be great before I take it into be repaired!!!!!!!
  • Our 98 Windstar has 110+ miles and we have just started having the same problems with our rear ac too. The front ac is fine. The back blows out hot air, which is fine in the winter...but not now when it's only June and 90!!!!
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    There is a TSB on this. The computer may need reprogrammed at dealer or the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TSP) replaced. I am pretty sure that is what they did to mine. Not hard to do yourself. Do some research. I can dig through my maintenance papers, if needed, to make sure that it was the TSP.

    Good Luck
  • dmain37dmain37 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Windstar with the same issue. I just replaced (inaccurately!, $25.00 at the DEALER) the Center console switch that sends air to A/C, Vent, Defroster, etc. I did this because I pulled the vacuum plug end loose from the rear of the switch and heard it gurgle, then re connected and suddenly got cool air out of the ceiling vents. Then it went right back to hot air out of the floor. I then pulled the dual vacuum line off of the Right console switch that changes Cool to the left position/ Hot on the right position for the REAR A/C. Only the BLACK line has constant vacuum, the WHITE line does nothing on its own. I opened the switch up to find a small green diaphram type valve with two tiny holes that match up to the tubing openings. It was very gummy and was sort of pinched up onto itself. I lubricated it lightly with PAM to make it elastic again. Unfortunately, I could not make it work. BUT, I did take a small piece of rubber fuel line tubing and held it in a "U" shape, connecting the BLACK and WHITE lines and VOILA, the door shifted in the wall and COLD air started coming out of the ceiling vents. At least I know what needs to be replaced, just not the cost. I do like the last post about zip tying the door in place to force the use of the ceiling vents all of the time. I have not investigated how to get to it, so if you have the info..... :-)
  • rmm1717rmm1717 Posts: 1
    My passenger side window also doesn't go down. I think we are pretty lucky with our 95 windstar for the most part. We didn't have that gasket problem. We only have 90K on ours, and there are other minor problems too.
  • thewojthewoj Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Windstar and have the same issue. The inside car lights will not go off (I had to disconnect the bulbs) and also the doors will not lock automatically when the car has been moving.
    I have no idea where the mechanism is that detects whether or not the rear gate is open.
    Did you ever find an answer to your rear gate problem?
  • I have the exact same problem on a 2000 as of 1 hour ago! Someone please help us.
  • The rear gate has two switches!
    They are located in the lock mechanism at the left and right side of the rear gate.
    Just spray WD40 in and open-close-open-close....

    Thats really the only way it works.
This discussion has been closed.