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Ford Windstar Problems
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Comments
FYI - they also tried to replace my steering pump and assembly some months ago ($1300.00) to cure a bad squealing and burnt smelling fluid. GoodYear found that two end caps or joints in the steering assembly (forget the proper name- some kind of joints) were shot - they replaced them, changed out the power steering fluid, and I've been fine with that since.
Anyway, does anyone have info on the door and manifold issues - maybe suggestions or info, or an idea for a cheaper alternative? Unfortunately, we didn't take the extended warranty.
Thanks!
The driver's side front wheel bearing has gone on my 1996. I have a 1995 I that I use for parts. I am trying to change entire spidle\knuckle assembly from the 95, which still has a good bearing, to the 96. I am having trouble with the pinch bolt that secures the bottom of the strut in the knuckle. I broke three wrenches on the weekend and tried heating it up an eventually rounded the head of the bolt. I want to take the assembly off and drill out the bolt. Here's my question... Is the bootom section of a Macpherson strut pressurized at all, or can I cut the bottom 6 inches or so off safely? Thanks for any help you can provide.
ruff or bumpey roads, it almost sounds like something going to fall off.
Any advise on what this might be?
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P.S. the switch in the back is due to my daughter dumping too many sippe cups in the cup holder, It leaked inside and on the switch.
53,000 miles
Fully loaded & then some, but no power doors
V6 3.8L engine
paint peeling on roof
vcr not working
$7500
I look forward to hearing from many of you owners!!! Thanks!! Christine
I believe this and other issues, like tie-rods, are manditory for a recall for all windstar owners under 100,000 miles in the spirit of good will in order to survive. If Ford did this and did some smart marketing to show their "good intentions" which are clearly backed without hesitation then I'd have good reason to consider buyying a ford again, (I've had bad transmissions in the Tempo 80's and Taurus 90's as well). OTHERWISE... I guess Ford has learned nothing from its “You Light Up My Life” Pintos... judging by the many complaints of transmissions and breaking tie-rod ends on Taurus and Windstar models.
My next purchase will probably be back to Toyota or Honda unless Ford considers a reimbursement on my 2003 Winrdstar trandmission last week.
soms
You will be a lifesaver!
My dad has a 98 as well and it makes the same sound but it is much quieter - but it has 50 000 km less.
Any thoughts
hope that helps
The power window, driver's side, has been replaced FOUR times and again it isn't working.. I dont have to pay for the motor as it is under warranty, but still WHAT IS THE DEAL with this?
I WILL NEVER buy a Ford again, NEVER.
Anyway just venting -any ideas on the above?
thanks
Jessie
I have the same van with 32,000 miles on it and the ABS has been a source of trouble since day ONE! I need to replace the left front axle for the second time and the right front axle was replaced about two months ago. I'm no mechanic but this is what I've been told.....
The ABS sensor lens (I think that's what it's called - it tells the system whether your wheels are locked, spinning, etc.) is on the axle and has a tendency to corrode and crack (sometimes to the point of dangling off). If it cracks and the "eye" (I don't know what else to call it) isn't seeing the wheel where it should, it makes the ABS kick in every time you apply the brake. I drove around like this for and extended time and eventually the ABS stopped kicking in and the ABS light just continually stayed on. It is my understanding that the ABS light on means that your ABS system is NOT functional at that time and will not kick in if needed. My brake light has been coming on intermittently, too. The only solution for this is getting the axle replaced, apparently. The axle replacement cost me about $800 each time from my local mechanic. The dealer wanted $1200.
Has your anti-lock kicked in during normal braking? If so, this may be your problem.
At this point I'm am just biding my time until I replace this heap of scrap metal and plastic so I'm not going to replace the axle again. I drove cars without anti-lock brakes as an option forever... I'll just make believe that this one never had it to begin with.
I also need a motor for my driver-side window but I'm not going to replace that either. If I hit the button enough times, it goes up or down eventually. My engine light goes on for no apparent reason and only goes off if my mechanic re sets it. His scan thingy tells him that a clog was detected somewhere but when he checks it out, there isn't anything wrong. It usually goes back on about 24 hours later. I give up on that one, too. Also, my back windows occasionally don't open for a day or two but then work just fine.
My van's newest trick is "Guess how fast you're going!". The speedometer jumps up and down about 10 mph in each direction while I'm driving at a steady speed. Something tells me that this is related to axle needing to be replaced but who knows.
Again, I'm not claiming to know what I'm talking about but this is the way I interpreted what the dealership and my mechanic have told me. Good luck with your lemon.
HTH,
Dani :shades:
Thanks, DRN
How much did the window motor end up running you? I've never even priced it. I've seen a TON of window issues on this site... can this be coincidental or will Ford ever fess up and admit that it's an inherent defect and start covering the repairs? I doubt it but it's good to dream once in a while.
You would totally know that your ABS was kicking in....... when you apply the brake it makes this horrible brake-grinding sound while it's trying to NOT let you stop. The brake pedal sort of kicks back at you and the van keeps lunging forward. Real fun stuff!!! First time it happened, it scared the bejeezus out of me! :surprise:
Glad you found yourself a good mechanic. Finding a mechanic you can trust is harder than finding a good doctor.
I've had very few problems. I have recently had a fender bender and cosmetic sheet metal is all that is needed. The insurance company will pay for the entire accident and it should look as good as new even though I have about 80,000 miles on it.
Since Fords new vans look exactly like my current van I see no reason to trade it in for a 2006 van. Does anyone disagree with me on this. I can afford to pay cash for any new car but it doesn't seem worth while.
Thnx
the brakes. There is a switch connected that was leaking brake fluid and shorting out the speedometer,odometer, and A/C. I replaced the switch for $25.00 and all is fine now, except for the ABS light which I think needs to be reset by ford. (but I dont dare bring it there for reasons of them finding other problems). Try that, it worked for me.
I've had the gears stripped on my air/heat actuator...changed that myself ...part $75...
My system too registers that it is running lean....check engine light stays on...
and for the last few months, the driver window doesn't work right...if it is 80 degrees outside, it works fine....otherwise forget it...
saw a question on the price of the motor for the driver window, but never saw a response...anyone know how much they cost??
Good Luck
Thanks In advance.