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Ford Windstar Problems

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    smannsmann Member Posts: 1
    My husband bought me an 01 windstar for my birthday, and I was so excited. The other day we noticed the paint is peeling off of the roof of the van. I called the company, and they said it is not covered. I have never heard of a cars paint peeling in 4 years. Anyone else haveing this problem, I would love to hear about it.
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    toryandmichelltoryandmichell Member Posts: 1
    First, the radio started shorting in and out. Next, the lock on the driver side sliding door stopped unlocking (you have to push the unlock button 4 times). Next, the heater stopped working (it blows air, but it is cold). Then the automatic sliding door woouldn't open or close when the key is in the ignition. And, the speedometer and odometer are not working. And, there is an ABS light on. Has my van suddenly become possessed? What in the world is wrong with it????
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    selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Check for a brake fluid leak from bottom of your master cylinder.
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    windstarquestwindstarquest Member Posts: 2
    We recently bought a ford windstar minivan v6 3.8l.
    I did a tune-up (based on Haynes and hints from other forumists) and change couple things such as the air filter and / the drivebelt.
    While exploring the engine, here is what I discovered:
    The coolant had a strange color (dirty?) and seemed contaminated and the engine oil seemed to have lost its viscoity (I changed the oil recently!) and appear black. However, I have not noticed a drop in the level of the coolant tank since I bought the car. What could the problem be?

    Someone told me that they might have put a stop leak in the coolant just so that they could sell it and maybe there is this "famous headgasket problem" with the car (I am nervous about this). Does anyone know of the least expensive way to replace them if that is the case? Are there TSB on the 1998? I now know that there was recall on the 1995. I can not find any apparent leak from the exhaust. What could be hap :confuse: pening?

    Also the other day, the oil pressure light started flickering but then dissappeared.
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    waterbayouwaterbayou Member Posts: 1
    Dear Sir;
    Hey I own a 2002 ford windstar lx my power steering moans and whines been replaced, rack pinion replaced strut mount plates replaced power steering pressure switch replaced high pressure power steering line replaced pump pressure checked ran at 1475 lbs. 295 degrees showed to be fine. Power steering still moans especially in cold weather. I have no clue I think it is a defect somewhere probably in the rack,pinion.Oh by the way mine has stiff hard steering especially in cold weather does yours also mine goes from easy steering to stiff steering does yours give me a answer thanks.
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    lisap21lisap21 Member Posts: 1
    We have the same problem! I have had the power steering pump replaced. It was good for 12,000 miles now the noise is back when we have been driving for a while. I have had one mechanic say I should replace the rack and two others say that is not necessary. I am hesitant to do anything b/c it does not seem that after everything you did it made a difference. My other friends van, same as ours, is doing the same thing. Ford told her it is normal that Windstars are notorious for loud power steering. Right! So loud you can hear it above the radio? I am tempted to drive it until it goes.
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    saleenpwrsaleenpwr Member Posts: 1
    I checked the power streering fluid and it was a blackish color and was hoping someone could help me with this. I thought the fluid was supposed be a light color. Any help would be grateful.
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    craftychicacraftychica Member Posts: 1
    Will someone PLEASE tell me what each warning light represents? :confuse: I can't seem to find any descriptions on these lights. I have 2002 Windstar SE. And A yellow light has just came on with a yellow exclamation point!
    Thanks for your help!
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    lemonade2lemonade2 Member Posts: 31
    Traded in the 1996 windstar GL today. I feel like a big weight has been lifted.

    Martin Luthor King said it best: "Free at last..free at last...thank God almighty, I'm free at last!!!"
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    soldonpattisoldonpatti Member Posts: 2
    Ckriley in response to your question on code po171. We changed the PVC valve and the air filter which eliminated po171 . Code po174 is still on. We have checked the vacume lines they look good, we did a tune up even though the van ran great the orginal wires were on (140000). Our defrost vents are the only ones that work and the back vent that blows hot air not cold. If anyone has hints for us we would be glad to hear them.
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    csw1csw1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Windstar and the power steering is really loud. It started as a sqeak when I would turn the wheel but now it moans all the time. Does anyone know what this problem is and what do I do about it? Or should I take it to my mechanic? Now it is so loud that I can hear it even when the radio is on! Help!
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    nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    2001 Windstar SE. The upper plenum is broken (part under the plastic cover above center of engine). The dealer says that they must remove the intake manifold to repair. I have an aftermarket warranty and that company will only pay for the upper replacement. The dealer says it can't be done like that. Does anyone know of any technical documentation that supports the dealer's fix. The warranty company says that they will reconsider the claim if I can get support to show that this must be done in order to make the repair. Thanks
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    nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    It could be the low tire pressure warning light. Check for a low tire. After correcting problem start the car and hold tire reset button in until light goes out.
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    fordneveragnfordneveragn Member Posts: 1
    The dealer is totally lying to you or does not know how to repair their own vehicle. Knowing FORD service departments, I believe the first explanation.

    The upper plenum is held on by 14 bolts. The bottom is exposed once that is removed. Then the bottom comes out with 8 bolts. You'll have to remove the throttle body from the bottom plenum as well. The moral of the story is that the intake manifold does not have to come out to replace the plenum.

    How did you break the plenum? :confuse:
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    nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    The car was originally making a noise which sounded like internal engine noise to my local mechanic. When I took it to the dealer the mechanic diagnosed it as a plenum failure after driving it and listening to it for a little while. I have to look over the invoice to see exactly what was done. The service advisor did give me a printout of a TSB that stated that some 2001 Windstars have this problem. It said that the noise will sound like a connecting rod failure. That is exactly what it sounded like. I think I am done with Fords also. I just got rid of a 94 Explorer that was falling apart. I think the Explorer is the most overrated vehicle ever manufactured.
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    istellaistella Member Posts: 5
    I bought a manual on eBay for my Windstar 2000 - it shows the meaning of all the various lites. If you can be more specific on what the yelloe iceon looks like, I'll probably be able to help. Still, i suggest you get an owner's manual. Cheap - about $10 - on eBay

    Regards.

    sieg
    My yellow engine light comes on and off, but I've been driving like that for almost a year and it is not a cause for alarm.

    sieg
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    istellaistella Member Posts: 5
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    istellaistella Member Posts: 5
    The bulb for the light has a dual function and has 2 filaments, one for the brake light and one for the parking light. I replaced the bulb but the probem persists. The fuse is good and controls both lights. What can be wrong - the socket looks brown and maybe burned?

    Thanks

    sieg
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    shumate1shumate1 Member Posts: 1
    :lemon: Does anyone have a problem where the check engine light stays on, and after a few minutes traveling in all forward gears(automatic trans), the sound of the engine gets louder when the idle slows, but goes away when given more gas. The engine light is on constantly, and there is no apparent drop in performance at any time. When the engine is in neutral, the sound is gone at all idle speeds.
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    selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Could be wheel bearings.

    As for the CEL check your PVC value, fuel filter, and air filter.

    Anything else requires a trip to the shop.
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    chudchud Member Posts: 1
    I too have joined the Intake Manifold Gasket problem club on my 2000 Ford Windstar. Dealer has just informed me it will cost $590.00 to fix. I found on another site that the tsb 03-16-1 issued from Ford addresses this problem and this person states the tsb states it is covered under the emissions warranty (8yr/80000 miles). Has anyone had sucess in having Ford cover this problem since it seems to be a design fault of Ford? If so please post, also has anyone had to replace the front struts at 70000 miles, this seems like a normal wear and tear issue but just wanted to check with the board to see if it really is. Thanks
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    First step is to have the stored diagnostic trouble codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge), post the code #'s, and we'll go from there. Any other approach is guesswork, and guesswork gets expensive in a hurry.
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    spannspann Member Posts: 1
    2002 windstar sel, 60,000 miles three problems.

    #1 passenger door window will not roll down.
    #2 sliding door passenger door doesn't always lock/unlock.
    #3 only happens when A/C or heat are on. Engine shutters, almost feels as if you are running over a rumble strip, and it happens about every 30 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes, whether at a stand still or moving.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. HELP!!!
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    treywindstreywinds Member Posts: 5
    I have a '99 Windstar,78k miles,which has just developed the loud noise from the pwr steering pump.the fluid is blackish in color,and when new fluid was added, the sound ceased for a few days.Before adding fluid however,I noticed that fluid reservoir was wet.I started the vehicle,and had my wife turn the steering wheel back/forth,and sure enough,it was backing up through the cap.It seemed to back up more when the wheel was turned to the left.There is also now a stain in my driveway.Could this be:A)leaking rack,or B)pressure relief valve.If so, where is this valve located?
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    victormezavictormeza Member Posts: 1
    I JUST BOUGHT A 1998 WINDSTAR WITH 90,OOO MILES ON IT. I EXPECTED TO CHANGE SOME THINGS BECAUSE IT IS AN OLD CAR, TWO OF THEM WERE SPEEDOMETER SENSOR AND TRANSMISSION SENSOR. AFTER JUST 600 MILES WITH THIS CAR ONE COLD MORNING IN MARYLAND (I MEAN NOT SO COLD AROUND 30-40 oF) THE LIGHT ENGINE COMES UP AGAIN, BUT AFTER 50 MILES IT TURNED OFF, JUST LIKE IT COMES IT GOES.

    DOES ANYBODY EXPERIENCED THIS BEFORE.
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    7milehi7milehi Member Posts: 28
    My wife's 98 Windstar just blew the head gasket at 118,000 miles . Yes , coolant is in the crankcase . TMV only shows the trade-in value at $850 for this van in clean condition . This is a dog and supply hauler vehicle for her ,not the primary vehicle . But this van really serves a niche in our family and up until now it has been a good vehicle .

    The dilemma is should I replace the head gasket and hope the main bearings don't go in a few thousand miles since coolant was in the crankcase , replace engine with a reman or junk it . Any ideas prices for head gasket fix vs. reman engine installation ?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm.....tough call, very tough call. Retail value might be $2,500 or so. I wonder if you could find a replacement van for that in your area? Yikes rather severe depreciation on those, isn't it?

    I guess the way to look at it is not in terms of actual dollars but rather amortization. If you put in a reman engine, and the rest of the van was tip-top, and you drove it for another 5 years, then it makes sense. But if the transmission gives up next month, then you are really in the hole. Risky in that regard.

    I'd imagine replacing the head gasket is a lot of work on that van, and isn't going to be cheap, but it would be cheaper than a reman engine certainly. But sometimes there are reman specialists who can do the job pretty quickly.

    Right now I'm leaning toward advising you to check out the used van market before you make a decision.
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    jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I have a '97 with leaking timing cover and intake gaskets. Best price I got for replacing those is $1200 (dealer was $1700). There is overlap in the labor between those and head gaskets. I was told head gaskets could be done at the same time for 2 hours additional labor plus parts.

    The other "might as well" stuff that has been suggested (water pump, timing set) adds another $150 or so. So if I did everything it would be maybe $1600.

    I looked into a reman engine and got a price of $2900 for that. So for now I am just driving it on a very limited basis. Since the difference between engine replacement and repair is not all that much, I don't worry too much about completely wrecking the engine.

    Mine has 95,000 miles. Coolant is disappearing on mine, but the oil still looks normal. Ours is an extra vehicle right now too and we really don't need a minivan any more...though it is nice to have it available on occassion.
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    nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    Ford recommends 5w20 oil for the 2001 Windstar. My local mechanic swears by 10w40. Is there a problem using 10w30 or 1010w40 in this engine?
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    jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Ford recommends 5w20 oil for the 2001 Windstar.

    I assume you meant 5w-30? Why would you not just use what Ford recommends?

    Here is information from someone who claims to be an oil expert:

    http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#5W30 versus 10W30
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    steve71steve71 Member Posts: 2
    I just had the exact same problem on my 99 Windstar, 62k miles. About 200 miles from home the O/D light started blinking. At 100 miles from home, I noticed smoke from the tail pipe. At 20 miles from home, the gears started to slip during acceleration, and at 16 miles, smoke started coming out of the engine compartment. I had it towed to the dealer, who quoted me $2600 for a rebuilt transmission. :mad: My 7-year extended warrantee (3rd party) had expired a week earlier. :( Has anyone had luck getting Ford to pay for transmission replacement on an out of warrantee Windstar?
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    nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    5w-30 is correct, (typo). After reading the posted link I see the "one size fits all" mentality that is prevalent in the industry. I will pay the extra few bucks to use the recommended oil.

    Thanks
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    dani65721dani65721 Member Posts: 4
    Hi all! New here... I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that has 75,000 miles on it. For some reason, now that it is getting colder the van sputters and tries to die on me. After I drive it a few minutes it wont do it again. Anyone have any idea what this might be?

    Thanks!!! :shades:
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    petey2petey2 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like the same problem I had. We had the idle control motor replaced and that seemed to take care of that problem.
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    petey2petey2 Member Posts: 2
    I've been experiencing an intermittent noise that seems to be coming from my gas tank. It is hard to describe in words. When it happens, it last for 3 or 4 seconds. I haven't been able to identify a pattern as to when it happens. A loud vibration type sound is the best way I can describe it. Anyone have any ideas or thoughts on what might be causing this, and is it something I need to be concerned with? Thanks in advance.
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    jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    The fuel pump is in the gas tank...maybe it is related to some problem with the pump???
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    runninnowhererunninnowhere Member Posts: 4
    I've probably read 300 messages on this board regarding transmissions on the windstar but nothing seems to match my current dilemma.

    The 2003 with 64K on it just stopped in my garage as I was backing it out last night. It has the 4 speed tranny which is now just a 0 speed. My back hurts from pushing it around to get hooked up to the tow truck for the trip to the local Milwaukee Ford Dealership.

    It had several of the symptoms you all described.
    -That ticking (mini-baseball card sound) as it goes in any direction that gets drowned out by engine noise at speed.
    -And the Power Steering pump noise when turning even the slightest. They didn't seem important until it became a 3000lb pull toy.

    Surprisingly a 2003 doesn't show up frequently on this forum. My formerly owned 94 taurus with the 3.8L and the blown head gasket at 103,000Mi is all over the place. You have to appreciate the irony of that mileage vs factory self-extended warranty.

    In the older Windstars a few have described the transmission having an under designed aluminum piston and an unsupported gasket. Wouldn't this have been taken care of in the last year of the models production before it became the Freestar?

    Before I throw down the gauntlet with the "service team" at the dealership I'd appreciate some suggestions on:
    -Diagnosis
    -Cost
    -Probability of recurrence
    -Super-secret warranty from Ford on a car at 64K miles

    Any help is appreciated by this guy with 2 kids in college who are sucking my wallet dry.
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    runninnowhererunninnowhere Member Posts: 4
    Well Jeff (I just posted on 2162) I had a 94 3.8L in my Taurus. Same thing with the Coolant bypassing the Head gasket and getting burned up in the cylinders. White smoke out the tailpipe until you are putting in a 1/2 gallon of coolant per mile. The engine will be junk shortly. At least the head gasket needs to be replaced for it to continue.

    Point of interest was that there was a 100K mile "warranty" extended by Ford for an indeterminate number of years. That was on my Taurus at least. I don't know if it applies to your year or if the time has elapsed. Mine finally died at 103K miles. No warranty, no respect.

    Call the Ford local zone office or search Ford somewhere on line for secret warranty information. Better luck to you. It sounds like you found a deal on the regasketing.
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    davecometdavecomet Member Posts: 3
    We are experiencing the same problem. Our local Ford mechanic says that he hasn't seen this kind of problem before and that it might take a lot of labor to diagnose.

    We have resigned ourselves to just disabling the anti-theft every time we lock up. (If you lock with the inside door lock button or the button on the key fob, it enables the anti-theft system. If you then use the key to unlock and relock one door, the anti-theft is disabled. That's the only way we've figured out how to lock all the doors without the anti-theft enabled.)

    With that work-around, we've decided not to spend the money to get it fixed unless someone comes up with an easy solution.
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    davecometdavecomet Member Posts: 3
    Seeing your message and replying earlier today got me chewing on this problem again and I think this time I've solved it for our vehicle. (It'll take several days of no false alarms to be sure.)

    Long description of diagnosis follows. Go right to the end for the fix.

    The clues I was working from were (and to see if your problem has a similar cause to mine):
    1) When locking the doors and arming the system with the key fob, sometimes the horn would honk once, sometimes twice (indicating that the system thought all the doors were closed or not) even when all the doors were completely closed.
    2) Even when the system thought a door was not secured, the dash did not indicate any door being ajar.
    3) My wife reminded me that it seemed to have started when we had the oil changed, which previously I had dismissed as being unrelated.

    I'd been guessing that it was related to the door switch on one of the automatic sliding side passenger doors, since the latch had been sticking, but nothing I tried on that door or switch button made any difference (and I wasn't about to open up the door panel to get into anything that deep.)

    Turns out it was the engine compartment hood switch which the tech must have leaned on when checking the fluids as part of the oil change. The switch is mounted on a somewhat flexible bracket extending from the back of the engine compartment. The keyword here is "flexible". The bracked was bent down enough so that when the hood was closed, the switch was only partially depressed, with only a slim margin between indicating open or closed. Wind, temperature and who knows what else could easily move it across the tipping point between open and closed.

    The fix: Bend the engine compartment door switch bracket back up.

    Now with the hood and all doors closed, I only get one beep when locking the doors and arming the anti-theft system with the key fob!
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    kylesmommykylesmommy Member Posts: 1
    New here--I have a 95 windstar lx, 3.8, 198000miles (yes almost 200,000) In the last week I have been having a problem when I go about 38-45 mph. The van goes then get possessed. The speed stays the same, but the rmps go way up (3000-4000) instead of normal. then it kicks back in with a jerk and will go. It will do it several times on the same stretch of road. Oh, plus the shifter on the column will not move unless you wiggle it just right. We have only had this van for 8 months and only put brakes on it. Please help with any ideas. We also have the commom interior lights problem that do not go off, the brake and door ajar light stay on. I finally removed the interior lights relay and "fixed" that problem and put black tape over the warning lights!

    Thanks :mad: :confuse:
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    runninnowhererunninnowhere Member Posts: 4
    At about 10:30 last night I was looking at the butt end of a cigarette I was finishing ...wondering what the chances were in landing it in the neck of the fuel tank. I have mixed feelings about this van. Fear and hate.

    I'll take the advice on the ETE and get a quote. Did they replace Aamco? Why would I like them better? I will call to see if there is an advantage because the Heiser dealership on silver spring is waiting me out before even giving me a diagnosis. One day so far.

    Frankly I wonder if (although it is running well now) the engine will die of the mysterious head gasket issue at 100K like the Taurus. If the engine would live (we're running synthetic engine oil afterall) as long at the T&C Chrysler I have, 196K, I wouldn't mind putting in a good remanufactured transmission. I LOVE to believe this is an abberation. I hoped / trusted that Ford would have learned and adapted to make better and better products given experience. but I'm now 2 for 2.

    I thought the concept of planned obsolesence died with the Ford Pinto in 1979.( and to be fair the Vega) Frankly it sickens me to think they (the manufacturer & factory) don't care.

    I frankly don't mind replacing Batteries, starters, water or fuel pumps etc. That is all just friable material in my mind. A couple hundred here and there is expected in my mind. The core that has to keep functioning is the engine and drive train. 3000 dollar repairs drive people away forever or at least until the customer believes the manufacturer has changed.

    The latest President of Ford seemed convincing on the TV. I guess he's just out of touch with what he makes. I'd like for him to experience the traitorous feeling that comes when the car just quits. In fact I'd like for him to drive his cars (unprepared for an executive) right off of a showroom floor. Then live with the defects for the first 4 months. I'd feel confident to buy his car again If I saw his dupa sitting shotgun in the tow truck that is hauling his car in for service. If he experienced the emotional letdown of a dead car...Nothing would stand in his way to not have it happen again.

    I'm a necktie too, but his order of executive is too isolated to know and grow a company.
    Dreams and wishes.
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    runninnowhererunninnowhere Member Posts: 4
    Use the 5 20 Synthetic just like the manual says.

    No matter what the mechanic thinks the viscosity is important in that it flows easier the lower the number. With these engines I'd stick to the thinner specified oil with the hope that everything stays lubricated internally.

    Synthetic is great stuff. Yes it costs more but the beauty is in the winter the car starts like a dream at 25 below. It is a monomer or at least a controlled mixture of the permutations of the ways a complex carbon based molecule can form. A chemical composition that forms oil can have multiple molecules form out of the same mixture of elements.

    Here is an example...(remember sys & trans & Ortho) it has been 25 years since organic chemistry for me but this is the gist of it... Things that do a job (say insulin for a diabetic's use) that are made of carbon based chemical compounds can form "handed" versions of the same formula (think right or left hand) The right hand version does the job well. The left hand version does 'kinda' the same but not as well. That is why we refrigerate insulin. so it doesn't break down into the "other version"

    The example is pretty good but oil doesn't change handedness at room temperature like insulin does. We don't refrigerate oil. However at the really high temperatures and engine bearing sees it does degrade and breakdown. The synthetic oils break down better when they do. general oils don't break down as well.

    Plus the real thing you want to do is find a new mechanic.
    A.He probably doesn't have any 5 Weight oil in his combination garage and bait shop. Plus he should know the next item.
    B.You always put in the recomended Oils in a manufacturers car. The brand doesn't matter however the specification on the page of your manual (and on the engine oil cap) will say API certified 5-20 synthetic. If you toast your engine using Jello whipped topping for oil there is no warranty from the manufacturer.

    Now if you put Jello whipped topping in your windshield washer reservoir it may freeze or make your windows funny. However if the washer reservoir fails you still get no warranty but you are only out 150$ in repairs. The engine is a bigger repair problem.

    Sorry to flame so much but your mechanic is a danger to you.
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    jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My previous post was deleted as it "appeared to be selling something". But it looks like you read it before it was gone. Just to be clear I have nothing to do with any company that sells anything.

    I had suggested that maybe you want to look into reman transmission from a local company that actually does the remanfacturing and will install their remanfactured engine or transmission. A guy I work with had good luck going this route. But he did end up doing both the engine and the transmission...this was in a Buick.

    I have the same thoughts as you though, when I consider installing a reman engine...what if the transmission goes next? On the other hand I think what if I spend $1600 on repairs and the leaks have damaged the engine and it dies in 6 months anyway? I am in a holding pattern because I can't decide what the better option is and this is an extra vehicle for now.

    I may buy another Ford, but not with a V-6. Their 4 cyl zetec seems to have been a much better engine than their 6s.
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    treywindstreywinds Member Posts: 5
    99 windstar 75k miles.Sudden, massive tranny fluid loss on highway(it would only happen on Thanksgiving holiday). :mad:
    Transmission overhauled for $1500-new torque converter,
    epc solenoid, tcc solenoid, etc.

    - just prior to tranny failure,developed problem w/pwr steering(grinding/grunting noise,shudder).I was told to check for a pressure relief valve. :confuse:

    -also,my ticking, mini-baseball card sound was solved when i removed the center cap/lug nut cover from my rims.I have the 15 in. rims with the slanted "starburst" cover.There are aftermarket covers available on ebay, way cheaper than the dealer.
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    treywindstreywinds Member Posts: 5
    We own a 99 Windstar, and the paint is peeling from the roof as well.It gets worse each time we wash it.The color
    of the van is Arctic White. Our dealer told us that this is not covered.
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    chance4chance4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Windstar and whenever I turn the steering to the right, there is a loud noise as if there is no fluid in the reservoir or loose belt. Turning to the left is OK
    Any idea?
    My engine light came on today. Auto Zone check it and get a reading P0171, told me it is the oxygen sensor but could not point me in the direction it is

    chance4
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    jallenjrjallenjr Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 Ford Windstar has quite suddenly, gone from a normal temperature gauge reading, to no reading whatsoever. Once the vehicle warms up, the needle just barely rises off the bottom, and thats where it stays. Also, it seems like now, I'm not getting very good heat from the vehicles heater. Could it simply be the thermostat or temp sending unit or is the problem more serious than that?
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    jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    If you are not getting normal heat, then it is not the sending unit as that would just affect the gauge not the the actual temperature. Seems like the thermostat could be a possibility, if it is stuck open it makes sense that the heat would be weak in the cold weather.
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    dbalmandbalman Member Posts: 1
    My Windstar has 92000 mi and has just started making a whining type noise when I turn left. It doesn't do it all of the time and only when I turn left. Not sure where to begin, but I would like some suggestions before I just take it to Ford. Our experience in the past, they ALWAYS find something whether it is really necesary or not.
This discussion has been closed.