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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions



  • tepst12tepst12 Posts: 8
    Post #690 listed the same problem I am having as of recent.

    Turned on the car when I was leaving work and cranked up the AC. AS the car cooled off I lowered the switch from 4 to 2. Eventually 2 was too much so I switched to 1. I noticed it was a bit more quiet than normal, in fact there was almost no air flow from the vents. I fooled with every control for a while, but can't seem to figure it out.

    My question is this, is it the motor or the switch? I'll have to check voltage to see....
  • Somehow my son has switched the odometer in our 2000 LS from miles to Km. Any ideas how to switch it back!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    If you've got the driver information center (DIC/trip computer), you have to press down a couple of buttons simultaneously on it to switch back and forth from standard to metric. I'm not sure how things switch if you don't have the DIC.
  • sirod75sirod75 Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Impala LS over a 100k. Everything seems great with the car but I have only one problem, when the car is standing still in any gear and when the air is off the car starts to overheat. I don't believe I have any loosing coolant issues. Do any of you guys have an idea what the problem might be?

  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Your radiator cooling fan sensor/switch may be faulty. If it doesn't overheat when your a/c is running then that is most likely the case. The a/c turns on the radiator cooling fan directly, but when the a/c is off the normal cooling sensor/switch isn't turning the fan on.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Has anyone gotten any feedback on the use of sealant as part of the intake manifold "fix"? I'm not comfortable with that solution to the problem. It seems like a quick fix and a source of problems down the road (so to speak).
  • My first thought has been not to get the "fix". Putting sealant in the system cannot be good for it over the long haul. If it really works, who knows where it will work once inside the system.
  • rbb2rbb2 Posts: 70
    I had a friend tell me to get it done right away. My thoughts on the sealant is if it is bad GM is going to pay to fix that because we were only doing what they told us to do.

    My friends comments were:

    "Get it done now. If the coolant leak did happen, it could go into the engine and seriously damage it. The coolant is so corrosive to an engine that it can eat the bearings and screw it up permanently. No real way of knowing whether coolant is leaking into your engine until it's too late. By then the serious engine damage has occurred and you will then have to get a new
    engine. What happens a lot of the time is the coolant will leak slowly and then GM will stop the leak by fixing it, but some engine damage may already have occurred. You will never know until your car dies at 50,000 miles because the bearings went out. That's not something to fool with. I'm familiar with this cause Saturn used to have the same problem. People kept driving their cars, damaging them without even knowing it. GM would only replace the engine if it seized."
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    Have encountered the first real problem with my '01 LS (84,000km / 52,500miles). The SIR coil (??) or cancelling cam in the steering wheel is going bad. The symptom was the air bag light going off and on intermittently and a slight grinding sound from the steering wheel when turning. If the air bag light is on, the bag will not deploy in a crash.

    Here's the kicker. My extended warranty does not cover air bag components (apparently this is farily common). I have AutoGuard for 5 years/165,000km purchased form the dealer when I bought the car. The service advisor at my dealer tried to get it past them under a different part name, but they didn't fall for it. Cost? $330 parts and $200 labour plus taxes!!!!!

    I'm going to push GM on this one. I don't think it's appropriate for a 27 month old car to have this type of important safety feature fail. I'll keep everyone posted on what happens.

    Overall I still really love my Impala!
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    Very strange. Got in my '01 LS this evening, started it up, and had no dash lights. Turns out that the fuse for the rear marker lights blew. Interesting design to have the dash lights on the same fuse as the rear marker lights. Everything else worked fine (headlights, front marker lights, brake lights, turn signals front and back).

    I replaced the fuse and everything was fine again. The the fuse blew again within a couple of minutes of me leaving my driveway.

    Off to the dealer again in the morning I guess. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    SIR coil replaced for the air bag system. GM paid 1/3, dealer paid 1/3, I picked up the remainder (CDN$117 minus a $50 certificate I had from the dealer). My total cost was $83 - much better than over $600!

    Other electrical problem was caused by a defective headlight switch. Replaced under my warranty.

    "Hooloo" is back to as good as new!

    Great service from my dealer.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    I have consulted a couple of high end mechanics about the use of sealant. From the research they have done, they recommend it as long as it is done to factory specs. In fact, one of them is going to use the sealant in his LT-4 Corvette.

    My '01 LS is now at 63K and running strong. No squeaks, no leaks*, no errors.

    *I replaced the warped intake manifold at 48K.
  • I have a 2001 impala with 75,000 miles. the check engine light has started coming on. (not the message center warning) the other day it started flashing off and on.....but it dont flash on and off all the time. why is this warning coming on and then flashing sometimes?? i have not had any problems with the car.....other than this summer(last week) it was running hot......180 in the 100 degree heat.thanks
  • i was wondering if i could purchase a decoder to figure out what the problem was..if so...what kind...where at...and how much?thanks again
  • My local AutoZone will read out the trouble codes for free.
  • Hi,

    I am considering buying a used 2000 impala with 35k miles on it. Tested it and really like the feeling. The only concern is the several posts I read here about its transmission dies in with low milage. Is it a wide spread issue for 2000 model? Thanks!
  • I recently purchased a wrecked 2003 Impala LS Sport that had taken a pretty big hit in the front. It's been a lot of work (and a lot of fun) fixing it up. As you can imagine, both front air bags fired in the accident, and are thus being replaced. However, I do not know exactly what else needs to be replaced on the airbag system. The airbags I got came with a control module (the one that's under the front passenger seat) although I noticed that it has 4 less pins on the connector than the one we took out (for the side impact air bag?), so if possible I will use the original.

    I was just wondering if anybody could tell me
    A.) Do I need to replace the control module since the previous airbags have fired, or will this module recognize the new bags?
    B.) Are there any other sensors for the airbag system (i.e. attached to the bumper or elsewhere under the hood) or do the bags and control module basically comprise the whole system?

    I'll have more questions as I go along, but thanks for the input.

    Matthew Van Zante
  • I have an '01 Impala LS. The "Security" light comes on and stays on in the Message Center(it appears with a cold engine, not when you restart the engine after it's been running for awhile) and the dealer is stumped. It is back in the shop today and they are going to try again. This may or may not be in association with the DLR lights coming on. The dealer originally tried tightening the BMS (?) connections and claimed that would fix it. No go. Can anyone help me here?
  • I bought a 2000 Impala with 39,000 mi on it on 9/9/2003. There was a TON of leaves and dirt in the lower front fenders! Basically, open one of the front doors, and look into the fender. There is a felt pad there. Move the felt pad up at the bottom of the fender and I took out at least a 2 cup fulls of composted leaves and dirt on each side!
    Has anyone else seen this? Is there any way to avoid this? Whats the deal with the felt pad? Shouldn't that be hard plastic?
    Also, I think this debris will probably get into that long plastic body side molding on the bottom of the car. Whats the deal with that gem of engineering? I live in Wisconsin, where they use road salt, so I'm afraid of salt getting into these places in winter and rusting away my car.

    Any thoughts?
  • mike65648,

    I have read through some of these forums and found write ups about the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on because people have used cheap gasoline, which causes some valve (PCV?) to stick. They recommended fuel injector cleaner and purchasing higher octane fuel. You may want to try than and see if you get results.

  • cuda2000,

    I recently removed the fenders and lower plastic moldings on my salvage 2003 LS and noticed the same thing as you. It only has 3100 miles on it but there were already some small black rocks in the plastic moldings.

    However, I also took apart the wiper assembly area (below the windshield, sorta behind the hood). I noticed that anything that slides down the windshield will eventually sit on top of either the left or right side holes that drain into the fenders. It's possible that if someone neglected to clean out leaves and other stuff sitting there, they could decompose enough to fit through the drain. In my case, I'm guessing the car sat underneath the edge of a roof, and black shingle grit washed off the roof, down the hood, and into the moldings.

    As far as salt goes, unless salt is thrown onto your windshield, I don't think the drainage will factor in. Although, I will admit that I did find rust between the fenders and the body where they are bolted together behind the wheels.

    No matter how you slice it, salt will stick to your car in the winter. The only real solution is to not drive it in the winter! :-) The next best thing, though, is probably to wash it regularly (like once every week or two).

    Just my thoughts,
  • fx17fx17 Posts: 1
    I have a question that's sorta related to the leaves in the fender issue... Has anyone experienced water leaking into the front passenger side floor pan? I have a vague memory of this being addressed here. With the recent heavy rains here in Baltimore, I've had significant water intrusion. I figure it must be coming from the area near the cabin air filter. I removed the plastic trim and flooded the metal tray surrounding the filter but the water seemed to drain fine through the fender. Is it possible that the water is leaking through the filter and fan assy (I didn't want to test out that one)?
    If anyone has a tip on how to cure this leak, and dry out the dense padding under the carpet, I'd love to hear it.

    Since this is my first post, I'd also like to say a big thanks to all who have shared their experiences on this forum. You've saved me lots of aggravation with warped brake rotors, ISS clunking, and leaking throttle body.
  • mvanzante,
    I think the leaves are not from the windshield area, its from the tires. The plastic wheel wells have a gap at the top towards the rear.
    The day after I cleaned the fenders out, there was a 3 inch twig in there, along with more junk. There's no way that twig got through the windshield cowl area, like you are thinking. And I'm talking about full leaves, like just fell off a tree.
    Anybody else taken a look into their lower fenders yet, to see what goodies thier car is hiding? Also, I wouldn't doubt that if that felt barrier gets moved or taken out, that there would be a ton of water getting everywhere by the door, which could get inside like fx17 mentioned.
  • cuda2000 & fx17

    I will have to take a closer look when I get my car back from the frame shop. I basically have to take apart the entire dash (various reasons... it's a long story) but if I'm looking for it I may be able to spot the path that the leaves and water take to infiltrate the fenders and passenger compartment.

    Also, I was just wondering if anybody had any clue about my airbag control module question.

  • My brother has an '02 Impala and you can drive along about 10-20 mph on the flat, take your foot
    off the gas pedal and there is a 'clunk' like we
    used to get out of the old u-joints. They replaced the motor mounts but that didn't help.
    (I haven't had any problems with my '03 Imp)
    Anyone have any suggestions?
    Rodger Ret-leo
  • Rodger,

    Check out the engine cradle on your brother's '02 impala. The 2000 cradles had a problem, but it was supposed to be fixed on the '01, so I don't think it would apply to his '02, but it couldn't hurt to check. Here's a link from that shows you the difference in the cradles:

  • Re: 735
    Thanks Matthew,
    He used to live in Bellevue, now he lives
    on Whidbey. I'll pass it on.
  • jimm7jimm7 Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Impala with about 36000 miles. Recently, I had two episodes where the "SECURITY" message appeared. In one case, the vehicle would not "crank" or start. In the other case the message appeared after the car was started and the engine running. The dealer said he could not duplicate the problem. This problem does not occur on any predictable basis. The manual is no help - it just says the dealer has to be consulted. Does anyone have any thoughts on the "SECURITY" message?
  • Msg from tepst12
    I had the same problem and it isn't the motor.
    The speed of the fan is controlled by a bank of resistors selected by the control. When I couldn't get any air on pos#1 they replaced a resistor and they don't have to remove the dash.
    part number is 15304891 resistor 092150.
  • Please refer to my previous question (#727). The dealer thought he had fixed it (tightened up the connections on the BMS--body module system???--it's the "computer center" brain). I brought the car home and the security warning came on the next morning. Brought back to the dealer again, who order the BMS and replaced the entire computer. Problem solved and the headlights are behaving now too (headlight and dlr lights were acting up.) Good luck--pursue the dealer.
This discussion has been closed.