Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
It probably depends on the dealer -- ask them to show you an example. I wanted heated leather seats on a Mazda6 a couple of years back and they installed them for me at no extra cost. They were beautiful and matched the car's interior very nicely.
I recently took my 2003 Toyota Camry to the dealer to replace my left front headlight (dim light was burned out). As I was waiting the service bay attendent approached me with a filthy dirty air conditioning filter and recommended that I replace it along with the cabin filter. Not having the time, I did not have it replaced at this time, but will in the future. However, my question is this.
Is this filter visible when the headlight bulb is being replaced? Where are these filters located?
The engine air filter is not visible, they had to take off the cover. If they had done this already, it would only take a minute more (once they had the new one in their hand) to replace it. The cabin air filter is behind the glove compartment, and only takes 2-3 minutes to change It is not visible either, but it is very easy to check and replace. Both can be changed very easily in 5 minutes total for both, once they get the parts from the parts department. You can see how to replace the cabin air filter in your owner's manual. You could do these yourself and save big $$$.
Thanks, I was rather shocked that service bay attendant brought this to me...as it was only a headlight that I wanted...so wanted to make absolutely sure that some effort had to be done to look.
Showing you the dirty engine air filter, and especially the dirty cabin air filter, is a common thing to do because the dealer makes easy, big money changing them.
I have a 2003 Camry. I am just hearing back from Boch Toyota (Mass.) on the "findings" from my 120K mile service. My check engine light has been on and their diagnostics are finding that my catalytic converter and the related sensor need to be replaced for $1,250 and they have found some defect in my right rear carrier subassembly that will require a $1,300 fix. In the last year, I have spent $4,500 on this car for various and sundry items like this one. Am I getting the run around? I like to keep my car in good shape, but I'm seriously considering ditching my relationship with this dealer over what feels like significant gold-plating of their service. What do you think?
I think you should get a second opinion from a good independent Japanese car repair shop, perhaps recommended by friends or AAA. There are always alternatives when repairing a fairly common car such as this one.
I had the same issue with the Toyota/GM/Scion dealership in my area. I took my Scion XB into the dealer for the 60k service and they wanted to do $900 worth of work to include flushes of all fluids, front brakes, tire rotation and an oil change. They also tried to get me on the filter issue even though I change my own filters. I was told they were "dirty" when in fact I changed them 30 days earlier along with the oil and oil filter. I nixed the entire service and went to an independent import shop and paid $459 for the same services minus the filters and oil.
They tried to pull the same game on a '95 Chevy Blazer that had a hesitation and bucking issue. Master fuel injector unit was the diagnosis at $1200. I balked and went to the import garage and asked them to look at it. Out the door price was $601 for the same work. I'd go with a reputable independent garage over the dealer any day.....
I stopped changing my own oil about 5 years ago when I got tired to laying on the garage floor and finding places to take the used oil became difficult. Having paid $38 for my last oil change at the dealer, I am thinking about doing it myself again. I will not go to the "quickie" oil change places.
For those who have changed the oil on the previous generation V6, can the oil filter be removed without removing the exhaust heat shield? And if so, how does one avoid contact with the hot metal? Since the filter opening is angled downward, I assume one can't add any oil to the filter before installing it. Any other tips would be appreciated.
I had a 4-cylinder in my former '07 Camry. The heat shield wasn't in the way, but the oil filter was angled downward. The latter meant you couldn't add fresh oil to the new filter before installing it.
My '07 I-4 has the filter opeing pointing up, perfectly vertical, so you can and should add oil to the filter before installing it. Very easy to change the oil in this car.
Chas, Absolutely no need to replace your struts because of age and mileage, they are good till you feel a bouncing with no resistince, I have a 93 camry, 195000 miles on it,I just first time replace the struts because I felt the free bouncing, and now its fine. Alex
I was reading some earlier forums concerning the 90k service for the 2003 Camry. I have a quote from a Tireman shop in Toledo, OH to complete all filter changes (oil, cabin, cabin), 27 point inspection, coolant flush, and fuel induction service. They are quoting me $250. The local Toyota Dealership is quoting me $474.00. What is the difference between the services besides OEM parts and a Toyota certified technician? Also, is the fuel induction service really needed? Would I be smarter to get a Trans flush (had at 60k)? Any advice as to what the minimum services I should have completed would be appreciated. I plan on having the car for another 2-3 years so I don't want to go overboard. Thanks.
If it's not in your manual (and it's not), it isn't needed. If the engine is running smoothly, it's just transferring money from your pocket to the dealer's.
Yes, just follow your owner's manual. The only thing I would suggest is to use Toyota parts. Some of the aftermarket parts are not good. Don't do the fuel induction, and I would just drain and fill the tranny every 30k. Same with the coolant.
My 08 Solara 4 cyl. hardtop just turned 2k miles. I'm thinking of switching to synthetic oil this weekend. Has anyone noticed much difference in MPG after the switch to synthetic? Also the oil cap has 5W-20 or 0W-20 listed as viscosities. Any MPG or performance differences noticed between the 2?
Don't expect any significant change in gas mileage with synthetic oil. There is a slight increase but it's so small it's tough to measure. Mostly you gain a little by faster warm ups, maybe....1-2%? So 1-2% of 25 mpg---can you even measure that?
when i started my car, its just completely sounds like its bout to die out. what causes that? we also Replaced the EGR valve, and yet it remains the same
changed out the egr valve (completely plugged). now car idles between barely running and normal...up/down/up/down/etc... even when attempting to accelerate....same condition, pulsing. changed vacuum lines...same thing. seems like fuel supply problem. please help?
1-2% change--you're right it can't really be measured. I did change the oil out today at 2700 miles because I got the Penzoil Synthetic on sale. I run synthetics out of belief in the benefits vs. Dino oil. On my Sat. morning trek through Walmart for dog food I saw the 5 Qt. Penzoil Synthetics were on sale for $19. Then I drove over to Advanced Auto for a Purolator Pure-One filter for $5--so for under $25 I did the changeover.
will someone please tell me at what mileage i should replace the the automatic transmission fluid. i called 4 different dealers and recieved 4 different responses such as 30000 miles, 45000 miles, 60000 miles and 100000 at the present time i have 50000 miles sincerely smurf
Well, there is no specified interval by Toyota. I think it's a good idea to do it somewhere between 35K and 50K miles. But I don't recommend a flush (it's pricey and it puts solvents in your transmission). I'd recommend just a drain and refill at this time, which means some of the old fluid remains in your transmission. If your dealer refuses to do this, take your car to a competent independent shop.
No one ever tried to answer my question (#466, repeated in #477) about what the white translucent tank is under the battery of my 2004 4-cyl Camry. Looks just like a coolant recovery tank but that is over yonder on the passenger side. Dealer mechanic says that on a wet, rainy day it functions to collect moisture out of the air taken in by the vent on top of the engine so the water doesn't go into the cylinders.
Anybody agree/disagree with this finding? I've asked two service writers then this really young mechanic. I haven/'t asked at the parts counter yet, Delray, your car must have this.
I have the same tank in my 2008. I have no idea what it is and tried to trace the input lines but it was getting dark and I closed the hood. I'll look it over again this weekend to try and prove/disprove the water collection theory.
That makes no sense. The water vapor collected in an engine is burned off immediately--it doesn't "go into the engine".....or if your engine runs very cold (like marine engines) it combines with oil to form sludge. And besides all that, this white tank would look like the bottom of a cesspool in about 2 weeks if it was collecting water and oil vapor. And besides that, it would defeat the PCV system, which is designed to re-burn crankcase vapors.
But I'm curious, too, as to what it is. Could be vacuum reservoir?
I looked at the white jug again this afternoon and I'm not sure what its purpose is. I traced the air intake from the top of the grille where it decends at a 90' angle about 12" straight down into a U shape where it then rises 90' and connects to the filter box. At the very bottom of the U there is a female flange on the under side of the intake that fits into a male flange on the side of the white jug. I could see no other lines or any type of drain plug on the base of that jug. It is located directly under the battery on the driver's side. It's either is a water collection bottle or some type of a vacuum bottle.
My Camrys both have this bottle. With no drain visible, it can't serve as a water collector. Could it be a resonator for the air intake? (Seems too large for this purpose.) I've never really given it much thought because it's largely hidden below the battery.
Allright, so after seeing a number of posts on this mystery bottle, I decide to go out and actually look at my 2007 LE 4 cylinder to see what you guys are talking about.
The plot thickens.......I have no mystery bottle under the battery. For that matter, I have no unexplained plastic mystery containers anywhere.
I have a California edition of the 2004 Camry LE 4 cyl. Could the white tank be a California add-on to the antipollution system?
The tank in question is large, larger than the coolant recovery tank and seemingly made out of the same material but hidden away under the battery. I owned the car for years before paying any attention to it. There doesn't appear to be any liquid in it. If you have access to a Haynes book, it shows up in the photo of the engine compartment. But without further explanation.
Again, I'm the guy that started the ruckus over the white tank under the battery in my 2004 4 cyl Camry LE.
Moving on... I'll join the eternal fray over when to change your automatic tranny fluid (ATF). Possibly never. And the authority for this is Toyota itself. On my tranny dipstick, at the top, there is a little message printed:
"Notice: No need to replace ATF under normal driving condition. See Owner's Manual when replacing."
Perfectly muddy. It's like sin. Don't do it, but if you do, follow the instructions.
Now every dealer on earth will tell you that you live and drive in a not-normal environment. If you live in San Diego, like I do, they will say 'the heat, the heat...' If you live in Fargo, like I definitely don't, they will say 'the cold, the cold...' And so it goes: heat, cold, rain, dust, multiple marriages, etc. Nobody lives under normal driving conditions according to the service writers. One dealer convinced me to drain and refill (this process leaves some fluid in the works) at 15k. Then I read the dipstick. That was the last I've done and now I have 72k. Am I headed for transmission perdition? Perhaps. Toyota leaves us gently hanging in the wind on this one. I think perhaps it will be responsible to drain and refill every 60 or 70k. In other words, 'never' to me means about 60k.
No matter where you get this done (ATF change, not sin) make sure they put Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV fluid back into it--that's what Toyota meant by reading the manual.
Bigger issue: it seems there are all kinds of things you have to do every once in a while even when they don't tell you to. For example, I routinely hold on to a car for 10 to 15 years, 170 to 200k. Every 5-6 years I change out all the rubber hoses and belts because rubber ages badly and if you don't replace it, a hose will pop at 3 am when you're 47 miles from the next service area...
Looking at the bottle again this afternoon, it appears to be related to moisture control. Why else would the the intake tube be bent into such a large U and the connection at the bottom of that U? Its purpose looks to be drainage related but I can't find out a thing about it on line.
And again I'm the one who first raised the question.
I stopped at a Toyota service department today just to ask. The service writer explained that it baffles sound from the air intake. 210delray, is that what you meant by 'resonator'? It has nothing to do with moisture, just air (sound). Last month I got a similar but vaguer answer from another service writer, who also noted that there are other sound bafflers in the engine compartment. There is a black triangular small box beside the mass airflow sensor (MAS) up between the air filter housing and the engine on fourbangers. This is called a resonator.
Google 'Toyota Camry air intake baffle' and you will see that there may have been an engine noise problem on some 2003 Camrys.
My next step to close on this matter will be to stop at a parts desk and have the guy look it up in Toyota's database.
I think I solved the mystery bottle questions or have a good theory to help contribute here.
I went back to the original post #517 well really its post #466and #477. This got me reading post #511and 512. Now stay with me here, post #511 and #512 sounds like the lady is probably from Guam. And they have a lot of moisture in that part of the world, I think. And she's sounds like she has the same problem as my Camry.
My Camry is running like crap too. Has been since I got a good deal for it when I saw it for sale all shinning and new looking along the side of the road The seller just said it just got painted and is a excellent car but hated to sell it . Well I'm getting off track here but long story short it missing those hoses that are mentioned in post #520. the ones that collect moisture.
Now I live in a desert but I thinking if the dealer is right in post#511, because its seems he knows the car best, Hell he made it.Or at least when theres nothing wrong with the car and needs useless service. And this collector mystery bottle is not on mine well the bottle is but the hoses are missing, like in post#.520 and so on... Then this is probably contributing to our problem. Me and Guam lady.
I know your about to say the "Desert Cars" don't need them parts, but here at night it gets cold and if you ever had boy scout training like me, you know at night to survive in the desert, you dig a small hole or rather during the day, and cover it. Then at night all that condensation builds up in that hole, or as in this case the engine compartment, if the hood is not left open from working on the car the day before. Then you got moisture. Just like the dealer guy said in post #517.
Anyhow I hope this helps cause I got a lot of rubber hoses that go nowhere and I think I finally figured out why. Thanks for the input.from all other post I haven't had time or space to mention here.
Yes, that is what I meant by "resonator." These are also used in some exhaust systems besides mufflers (they look like small mufflers), and the purpose is the same: to reduce noise.
i have lost the one key to my company car, a 2004 camry. The dealer wants $310 to replace the key set and the computer, do I have any other choice in this matter?
I assume the key you lost, is the key with integrated security chip, and remote door opener keyfob. When you buy a replacement, it has to be cut, then configured with the car computers for both the security feature and the door opening feature.
You can get a key that only has the security chip in it without the door keyfob, which would be cheaper.
Comments
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
Is this filter visible when the headlight bulb is being replaced? Where are these filters located?
They tried to pull the same game on a '95 Chevy Blazer that had a hesitation and bucking issue. Master fuel injector unit was the diagnosis at $1200. I balked and went to the import garage and asked them to look at it. Out the door price was $601 for the same work. I'd go with a reputable independent garage over the dealer any day.....
For those who have changed the oil on the previous generation V6, can the oil filter be removed without removing the exhaust heat shield? And if so, how does one avoid contact with the hot metal? Since the filter opening is angled downward, I assume one can't add any oil to the filter before installing it. Any other tips would be appreciated.
My current Camrys ('04 and '05, both 4-cylinders) have the upright oil filter.
Absolutely no need to replace your struts because of age and mileage, they are good till you feel a bouncing with no resistince, I have a 93 camry, 195000 miles on it,I just first time replace the struts because I felt the free bouncing, and now its fine. Alex
If it's not in your manual (and it's not), it isn't needed. If the engine is running smoothly, it's just transferring money from your pocket to the dealer's.
Also the oil cap has 5W-20 or 0W-20 listed as viscosities. Any MPG or performance differences noticed between the 2?
Thanks to all....
at the present time i have 50000 miles
sincerely
smurf
Anybody agree/disagree with this finding? I've asked two service writers then this really young mechanic. I haven/'t asked at the parts counter yet, Delray, your car must have this.
But I'm curious, too, as to what it is. Could be vacuum reservoir?
I traced the air intake from the top of the grille where it decends at a 90' angle about 12" straight down into a U shape where it then rises 90' and connects to the filter box. At the very bottom of the U there is a female flange on the under side of the intake that fits into a male flange on the side of the white jug. I could see no other lines or any type of drain plug on the base of that jug. It is located directly under the battery on the driver's side. It's either is a water collection bottle or some type of a vacuum bottle.
The plot thickens.......I have no mystery bottle under the battery. For that matter, I have no unexplained plastic mystery containers anywhere.
I have a California edition of the 2004 Camry LE 4 cyl. Could the white tank be a California add-on to the antipollution system?
The tank in question is large, larger than the coolant recovery tank and seemingly made out of the same material but hidden away under the battery. I owned the car for years before paying any attention to it. There doesn't appear to be any liquid in it. If you have access to a Haynes book, it shows up in the photo of the engine compartment. But without further explanation.
Moving on... I'll join the eternal fray over when to change your automatic tranny fluid (ATF). Possibly never. And the authority for this is Toyota itself. On my tranny dipstick, at the top, there is a little message printed:
"Notice: No need to replace ATF under normal driving condition. See Owner's Manual when replacing."
Perfectly muddy. It's like sin. Don't do it, but if you do, follow the instructions.
Now every dealer on earth will tell you that you live and drive in a not-normal environment. If you live in San Diego, like I do, they will say 'the heat, the heat...' If you live in Fargo, like I definitely don't, they will say 'the cold, the cold...' And so it goes: heat, cold, rain, dust, multiple marriages, etc. Nobody lives under normal driving conditions according to the service writers. One dealer convinced me to drain and refill (this process leaves some fluid in the works) at 15k. Then I read the dipstick. That was the last I've done and now I have 72k. Am I headed for transmission perdition? Perhaps. Toyota leaves us gently hanging in the wind on this one. I think perhaps it will be responsible to drain and refill every 60 or 70k. In other words, 'never' to me means about 60k.
No matter where you get this done (ATF change, not sin) make sure they put Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV fluid back into it--that's what Toyota meant by reading the manual.
Bigger issue: it seems there are all kinds of things you have to do every once in a while even when they don't tell you to. For example, I routinely hold on to a car for 10 to 15 years, 170 to 200k. Every 5-6 years I change out all the rubber hoses and belts because rubber ages badly and if you don't replace it, a hose will pop at 3 am when you're 47 miles from the next service area...
So what do you change on your own initiative?
Brake fluid. It absorbs moisture, so it should be changed periodically (at a minimum every 5 years or 50K miles).
My Camrys (2004 and 2005) are not California models, and they still have the mystery bottle.
I stopped at a Toyota service department today just to ask. The service writer explained that it baffles sound from the air intake. 210delray, is that what you meant by 'resonator'? It has nothing to do with moisture, just air (sound). Last month I got a similar but vaguer answer from another service writer, who also noted that there are other sound bafflers in the engine compartment. There is a black triangular small box beside the mass airflow sensor (MAS) up between the air filter housing and the engine on fourbangers. This is called a resonator.
Google 'Toyota Camry air intake baffle' and you will see that there may have been an engine noise problem on some 2003 Camrys.
My next step to close on this matter will be to stop at a parts desk and have the guy look it up in Toyota's database.
Stay tuned.
I went back to the original post #517 well really its post #466and #477. This got me reading post #511and 512. Now stay with me here, post #511 and #512 sounds like the lady is probably from Guam. And they have a lot of moisture in that part of the world, I think. And she's sounds like she has the same problem as my Camry.
My Camry is running like crap too. Has been since I got a good deal for it when I saw it for sale all shinning and new looking along the side of the road The seller just said it just got painted and is a excellent car but hated to sell it . Well I'm getting off track here but long story short it missing those hoses that are mentioned in post #520. the ones that collect moisture.
Now I live in a desert but I thinking if the dealer is right in post#511, because its seems he knows the car best, Hell he made it.Or at least when theres nothing wrong with the car and needs useless service. And this collector mystery bottle is not on mine well the bottle is but the hoses are missing, like in post#.520 and so on... Then this is probably contributing to our problem. Me and Guam lady.
I know your about to say the "Desert Cars" don't need them parts, but here at night it gets cold and if you ever had boy scout training like me, you know at night to survive in the desert, you dig a small hole or rather during the day, and cover it. Then at night all that condensation builds up in that hole, or as in this case the engine compartment, if the hood is not left open from working on the car the day before. Then you got moisture. Just like the dealer guy said in post #517.
Anyhow I hope this helps cause I got a lot of rubber hoses that go nowhere and I think I finally figured out why. Thanks for the input.from all other post I haven't had time or space to mention here.
i have lost the one key to my company car, a 2004 camry. The dealer wants $310 to replace the key set and the computer, do I have any other choice in this matter?
thanks
You can get a key that only has the security chip in it without the door keyfob, which would be cheaper.