I have a 02 Camry with 55,500 miles. I am due to get a oil change in 1000 miles. Should i do the 30,000 mile service at 56,5000 miles or wait another 2000 miles to do the service at 57,500(would be 6000 miles between changes maybe changing the filter only). Or should i just change the oil at 56,500 and do the big change at 61,500?
I kept the car highly maintained using synthetic oil.
Your driving style and the length of time since the last oil change also come into play in determining oil change intervals. I believe the manuals for the 2002 models still recommended oil changes at 7500 miles for most driving conditions and 5000 miles for severe. If this is correct and since you are using synthetic oil, it should be ok to go 6000 miles, but I would also check the recommendations on the length of time between oil changes and make sure you are not exceeding that recommendation.
I drive in Phoenix so a lot of highway driving and some street driving. And the weather in the winters are 75 degrees everyday. I think i might just wait 6000 miles to change my next oil change that way i dont have to pay an extra 35 $ for a oil change at walmart.
Regular oil changes are the cheapest insurance and best investment you can make towards a long and healthy life for your car's engine. A general rule of thumb is around 3000 miles per change, and you can probably add another 1000 miles with a quality synthetic oil. Going 6000 miles on a regular basis is considered by most automotive experts to be pushing it a little, regardless of what the owner manuals say. I certainly wouldn't recommend it, altho' I'm no expert. Here's a clip I pulled from an article on MSN showing there's an additional benefit to regular oil changes--increased gas mileage. "Change your oil. Changing the oil regularly is another double bonus for your car and the environment: when your engine is running in top condition, it burns fuel most efficiently. After oil changes, ask the mechanic to see that your old engine oil gets recycled, and check the replacement oil: the best oils for fuel efficiency are labelled “Energy Conserving” and can reduce your fuel consumption by 3%. Frequent tune-ups of your vehicle will also keep it running smoothly (a poorly maintained vehicle can operate 50% less efficiently!)." Do the math--if you save 3% on fuel in a year (average driving 12000 miles per year) you'll save enough $ for an extra oil and filter change, and have some money left over!
Mobil one is said to be a reliable product, but I wouldn't try getting "up to 15000 miles between changes" with any oil regardless of how long anyone claims it'll last. Those claims are mostly marketing hype IMO--probably made under ideal test conditions with engines that have huge oil sump capacity, excellent filtration, regular monitoring during the program, etc. I routinely stick to a rule of thumb 3 to 4000 miles, and have never had any problems like sludge, excessive wear, etc. The older your car's engine, the more this rule of thumb applies IMO. One way or the other, it's your choice. Like I said, regular oil changes are cheap insurance, and likely the most cost effective investment you can make in your car's engine.
Never mind i am going to change my oil today. I thought i needed my brakes to be cleaned and adjusted but Brake Masters said there was no problem, is the dang after effects of the Toyota Spongy Brake System.
Anyways when i do my 30000 mile service should i also get my spark plugs replaced. Also what would the estimated cost be?
Check your owner's manual. The spark plug replacement interval was 60K miles on the 1997-2001 Camry (I had a '97), but my 2004 and 2005 models have a 120K mile interval. All of my Camrys had the 4-cylinder.
Hey folks, My car is 90000 miles rite now. I plan to do the 90000miles-maintenance. Except the following item I need to do, what else you guys recommend to do?! and Which store is better and cheapter?! (Dealer is out)
Tune-up Brake service Coolant Tire balance and rotation ATM(transmission)
I'll be picking up my new Solara SLE later this week. Is there a consensus on the proper way to break-in a new car.
I was told by an acquaintance who races cars that for the engine I should keep the car under 60 miles an hour for the first 500 miles and then really push it for the next 500 miles. For the brakes, avoid hard stops for the full 1000 miles. I haven't seen the Toyota manual yet; it's in the car.
There isn't a consensus, but by all means, read the manual for Toyota's recommendations.
It will tell you to vary your speed through the first 1000 miles, but does not give a maximum speed. Yes, be gentle on the brakes, and forget about "pushing it" for the second 500 miles.
How important is it to use toyota's own brand of oil filters?Will it make a difference,or can I go to an express oil change service, and use their brands of filters?
I've done a complete turnaround in recent years. Why save yourself a few dimes to get an aftermarket brand? Just get the Toyota filter. You can search the net for dealers or other suppliers who offer Toyota parts for less than your local dealer (esp. if you order in quantity to save on shipping cost).
If you do go with an aftermarket brand, do NOT buy FRAM filters!
I have toyota camry 98 v6 LE with 123,000 miles using last 9 yrs. Now my steering fuel is leaking. Can anyone suggest what is the best to replace the steering rack,is it original toyota part is good or any outside manufacturing part ?. When spoke with pep boys they charge $570.When talk to couple of dealers they are very busy they don't have time to look at it ?. Can I do repair at Pep boys or dealer is best ?
I'd personally recommend a good independent shop, either one that services all makes or one that specializes in Japanese vehicles. Get recommendations from friends, relatives, and co-workers.
The Japanese-made "Toyota" oil filters (by Nippon-Denso, I think) are very well made filters. But, you have to be careful - in many cases, dealer-supplied filters under the Toyota brand are actually made in the U.S. by Arvin-Meritor ("Purolator"). These are good filters, too, but why pay Toyota to act as an additional middleman? A trip to Pep Boys, et al, can get you Purolator's premium "PureONE" series with silicone gasket and anti-drainback valve, as well as even finer filtration media than the OEM service filter with "Toyota" printed on it for about the same price.
the dealer called me and said my 04 camry LE is due for 15k miles service. the fee is going to be $129 plus tax. what is that all about? do i have to do it or i can just get a regular oil change?
Check my post #674. Basically, you're looking at an oil change, a tire rotation, a visual check of the brakes (since the tires come off anyway), and visual checks of fluid levels (which you can do yourself) and the underbody. I'm assuming your car is used for normal service, not under the "special operating conditions" listed by Toyota (driving on dusty roads, towing a trailer, etc.).
List each of the items from your maintenance manual and present the list to a reputable shop, not your friendly rip-off dealer.
As delary said, most dealers add items to the regular service intervals that Toyota doesn't suggest. There are very things required beyond oil change and tire rotations for the first 50k miles or so. Just tell the dealer you want what the maintenance schedule says. It should be well under $100.
Oil and filter change, using Genuine Toyota Oil Filter Fluids inspected and replenished Multi-point vehicle inspection, including air filter and cabin air filter (on applicable models) Tire pressure check & adjustment Tire Rotation Brake Inspection, including lines and hoses, linings and drums, pads and discs
are those enough for my coming service? i remember i paid around $70 last time when i did 10k miles service there.
Yes, but "toyota recoToyota Express Lube Service" sounds like a dealer recommendation and not what's in your Toyota maintenance manual. You're going to get soaked if you paid $70 at 10K miles, which likely only included:
Oil and filter change, "using Genuine Toyota Oil Filter" Fluids inspected and replenished Tire pressure check & adjustment Tire Rotation
For 15K, you don't need to have the engine air filter replaced (it's good for 30K miles unless you regularly drive on dusty unpaved roads). Technically, the cabin air filter doesn't need to be replaced that often, either, but I've found mine gets plenty dirty in 15K miles.
Surely, you can check and adjust your own tire pressure? You can also raise the hood and check fluids (all have see-through containers except the engine oil, and all are likely okay except the windshield washer fluid level).
I'm not being facetious, but you cannot allow dealers to profit from not knowing what Toyota (who manufactured your car and knows better than any dealer) requires.
Hello, does anyone know where the oil filter for 2006 Camry XLE V6 is located? Just got it for a month. I have tried to look around underneath it. Oil pan plu is easily found but not filter. Can it be directly viewed or do I need to remove some plate/panel underneath the car in order to access? Besides, is K&N gold filter better than Toyota Genuine filter? Thanks.
I don't own a Camry, so I can't answer your question. But, since you obviously care enough about your new car to want to personally service it, then drop the price of admission for the factory service manual. (Yeah, you can obtain a Chilton or Haynes manual, but they never go into the same level of converstaional English detail that the factory manual does for the less frequently needed information that inevitably crops up during ownership.) The factory manual will tell you ALL the "wheres" for your car and you'll never regret the purchase. When you eventually part company with the car, you'll probably be able to recoup all or most of the purchase price by selling the service manual on eBay. My '03 Hyundai Sonata service manual has saved me enough in time and labor charges to've been well worth what I paid for it.
You might have to take it in to keep the warranty in effect, did they say that? But yeah, for that price they are not doing much more than change the oil and maybe tire rotation - that much i can tell from here.
If i could keep my warranty in effect and not take it in, i would not bother. I can change my own oil for < $20.
Timing belt change: 60,000mi for 4 cyl engine. 90,000 for V6.
Yes change the water pump too. I would. You cant get to the water pump to change it without removing the timing belt anyway, so belt change is a good time to do it to save some labor cost. I don't trust water pumps, i have changed them on every single vehicle i have ever owned. So i say yeah change it. Preferably with a toyota part, they really are better.
"You might have to take it in to keep the warranty in effect, did they say that? ... If i could keep my warranty in effect and not take it in, i would not bother."
There indeed was a time when American automanufacturers had a cozy little relationship with their respective dealer networks requiring car owners to use dealer facilities in order to maintain their warranty rights. However, in a rare display of actual intelligence, congress passed the Moss-Magnuson Act which forbids linkage of dealership service to the automakers' warranty. You can have an independant service facility of your choice perform required maintenance, or you can even do all your own service, and still maintain full warranty rights -IF- you keep reasonable documentation defined as, a) purchase receipts for materials (oil, oil filters, air filters, spark plugs, etc.) and, b) a log (a handwritten log is fine) of the date you performed the service, itemizing the procedures you performed. In the event of a warranty claim that might be related to service (or lack thereof) the automaker or his agent (the dealership) have the RIGHT to demand evidence that the owner's manual specified service was done in a timely manner. THAT's the reason for keeping a log and receipts. As long as you can supply that documentation, the automaker has a vertical battle trying to deny the claim unless it can prove fraud on the owner's part in criminal court - not an easy sell where the burden of proof is "beyond a reasonable doubt" and the jury's decision for a guilty verdict has to be unanimous.
Having outlined all that, I should also bring up the issue of non-manufacturer extended service contracts. Since these are not issued by the auto manufacturer, legally, they're not actual warranties. If these contracts specify dealership maintenance to establish repair performance, the car owner is probably on the hook to the dealership for routine maintenance. Owners who bought into the new car sales manager's smooth talk for one of these contracts should check the fine print for any dealership-linkage "gotchas".
Yes go by severe service interval. Read their description of severe service, it is actually how everyone drives. I've always changed my oil before they say to and i've never worn out an engine. Blown up one or two, yes. But never worn one out.
Exception = if you run Mobil 1 oil. This is the best oil you can buy and you can run this oil for 10,000 miles if you had to. But to me 7,500 is more like it.
I have had regular servicing every 3000-3750 mi. and would like to hear what others advise and not just automatically schedule a $440-$474 job (includes spark plugs).
What "Inspections" and "Replacements" are mandatory? - I will willingly comply.
Your best bet is to open your owner's manual to read the required service intervals at 60,000 miles. As long as you specify only those services, you can avoid the make-work "pap" services dealerships like to pile on as part of their ongoing "Full Employment, Techs' Widows and Demented Waifs' Combined Educational Opportunities & Trust Funds". Definitely heed the mileage recommendation for the timing belt replacement. If the old belt lets go in operation, there's a strong liklihood it'll take the engine with it if the engine's an "interference" design that allows contact of pistons with open valves.
Luckily, the 4-cylinder Camry's engine is of the non-interference type, so you won't tear up the engine if the timing belt goes. But you'll still be stranded.
I do most things on the car myself so that price looks appalling to me. But even though many mechanics do overcharge, usually its a fair price for the work! I work on cars for a living for a large municipality, been workin on cars since 1978. And it used to be much easier up til the '80s models when they got much more complicated and a lot harder to work on! On most cars you have practically NO CLEARANCE to get your hands or tools on anything! So take a look at your engine, imagine changing that timing belt or even plugs and you will grasp why they charge what they do.
I changed my plugs with a few scrapes and cuts for $55. Aint easy but can be done. And your service at that price, sounds like an oil change, air filter and plugs and a brake inspection/tire rotation. Please correct me if im wrong. BTW my oil changes (the most important maintenance and the only one you shouldnt ever put off) cost about $10 or less. I buy my oil by the case and use rebates.
At 60 k miles theres not a whole lot of maintenance to be done but i would change the tranny fluid and the coolant. For the trans you might need to use T IV ATF fluid (check your owners manual), which you can only buy from Toyota. It is $5 a qt but the job is easy to do, easier than changing the oil. You would need a 10 mm hex and about 4 qts if you dont pull the pan (and at that mileage i didnt think there was need to, nor is there much need to flush if you change the ATF every 30,000).
Then you're good til about 90 k at which time, you will need to do the timing belt and this is a big hit dollar wise. Im doing mine myself, when its due. Because you might get quotes of up to $700 for this job.
I had the transmission and coolant change done, was told not to bother changing plugs yet as car runs well, that I should consider plugs at 80,000 miles. Work and information was not provided at the Toyota dealership. As car is out of warranty, I now shop around. Thanks to all who responded.
For the first year I have been changing oil every 3 months, basically less and 2K miles on it. I mostly drive in the city. But I do warm the car in the morning and after work (for about 1-2 minutes before running it. I don't if this helps or not.
I use Mobil 5/30 syn. oil with toyota filters.
Q. I am thinking of changing oil only after 6 months as toyota manual says. Any thing wrong here?
Q1. What do you guys think of K&N oil filter? It is $10 filter with semi. syn. filter paper in it. Looks good and heard good thing about it on the net too?
Q2. Do you guys recommend/suggest adding some additives like prolong along with oil change.
Answers: 1. It will be fine to switch to 6-month intervals, especially since you're already using synthetic, as long as you don't exceed 5000 miles in those 6 months.
2. I'd personally just stick with the Toyota filters (and that's what I use in both my '04 and '05 Camrys).
3. Don't put in any additives. They are worthless snake oils, and especially so given that you're using synthetic oil.
If you are only driving 3000 miles every 6 months, save even more money by switching back to regular oil. You are wasting your money on synthetic with your driving habits.
Is it better to start and warm the car for 1-2 minutes before driving it. Does it do any good or not really?
Filter. I have no problem using toyota filter but K&N filter has semi-synthetic paper filter inside it and both have back up value to hold oil in the filter when not driving. Reason asking about K&N is when I am changing oil every 6 months then it might be better.
Start, idle 30 sec, then drive off but don't gun it for a few minutes until it gets warmed up.
Let's see, who do you think can design the best filter: the Toyota engineers who developed the engine or the K&N guys who have to make "one size fits all" filters and hope their advertising gets the sales?
My brother is an engineer in the automotive industry. He frequently interacts with the lubrication engineers for two of the larger Consumer oil producers for over 10 years. His advice is based upon no heresay or opinions but on facts as determined by the people charged by the manufacurers with KEEPING WARRANTY REPAIR COSTS LOW!
1) The manual recommendation is an excellent "safe harbor" rule. Drivers who abuse their engines (meaning those who accelerate very heavily with less than 30 seconds of warmup in the winter, Racer types, etc) will just about reach the limit at the recommended interval. NORMAL DRIVERS ARE EXTREMELY SAFE at the factory recommendations. Mobil 1 is a fine oil but is not needed for the factory intervals in a nonabusive driver.
2) see #1 and only consider expensive filters if you are an abusive driver.
3) additives are unnecessary again if you are normal driver.
For a normal driver, your driving habits and following the Owner's manual recommendations are certainly adequate to obtaining average (180,000) miles from a Camry engine but with your city driving, you may only sucessfully obtain 75-80% of that.
I personally was a quality control engineer for VW in the late 70's and early 80's when the Rabbit was built in Pennsylvania. MY INFORMATION FROM THAT ERA IS NOT APPLICABLE TO 2006 vehicles!! Many opinions that you recieve USED TO BE CORRECT but THE CORRECT INFORMATION HAS CHANGED!! Please follow the Toyota FACTORY manual for recommendations and you cannot go wrong their reputation hinges upon those recommendations. Dealers often have a "different set of recommendations that are frequently overkill.
I am having a 2002 toyota camry and have 60k miles on it. As per my dealer the 60k package service costs $449.99. I feel its a pure rip off. What do you guys think?. Toyota manual says 1)change engine filter 2) change a/c filter 3) change engine coolant 4) Rotate tires and inspect couple of things.
How often do I need to change the transmission fluid?. I had it replaced at 45K.
Well, there are some inspections beyond what you listed, but yes, $449 is way too high, and you don't need to have the transmission oil replaced again after only 15K miles.
My advice: copy everything the manual states is needed at 60K miles, then take your list to a reputable, independent shop. Ask friends, neighbors, or co-workers for recommendations. You don't have to subsidize the dealer's yacht payments!
Don't let anyone talk you into items that aren't on your list (and if they're a good shop, they shouldn't in the first place). Common add-ons: fuel injector cleaning, transmission flush, and "tune ups."
However, if they do find something amiss, have them show you the problem before you authorize any further work (e.g., worn brake pads).
Wonderful work with the Volvo! My father bought a 1950 Chevy pickup truck in 1960 and it finally died in 1985 - a rare feat and beyond my target of 12 years (which my wife would never allow me to reach)!
Outstanding advice! The only other maintenance to consider at some point in the future is a brake fluid flush due to likely moisture absorption. Not an absolutely critical thing but you may want to consider it sometime before 90K miles. The advice about finding a good independent mechanic is your #1 priority. Dealer expertise is certainly not needed for the correct 60k service.
K&N sells oil filters, but K&N does not make oil filters. The $10.00+ oil filters in K&N boxes are made in the U.S. by Champion Labs (no relation to Champion Spark Plug Company). Champion Labs also makes WalMart's SuperTech, Autozone's Valuecraft, Mobil 1, American Bosch, current AC-Delco oil filters sold by GM dealerships and other aftermarket retailers, as well as numerous other "house" brands. Prior to getting contracts from "big" name companies, Champion Labs marketed their oil and air filters under the Lee name. By the way, $2.07 SuperTech oil filters also use synthetic blend filtration media. Aftermarket oil filters, regardless of brand, have anti-drainback valves per automanufacturer spec. For those of you who swear by K&N oil filters, rest assured K&N doesn't pay Champion Labs anywhere close to what you did for bragging rights. Those letters and the spot-welded hex nub for a socket wrench come at a very dear cost.
Thanks! I never expected the Volvo 240 to last that long when I bought it as a 2-year-old car with 31,000 miles. But like the proverbial Energizer bunny, it just kept going and going. It was easy to work on, and never cost me a lot for any single repair other than replacing the heater blower motor and the fuel distributor. Ultimately, the tin worm and electrical maladies caused me to sell it.
Those Chevy trucks from the 1948-54 period are real classics; I love their style, and I wouldn't mind having one to bring to car shows. However, I'd never consider one as a daily driver due to their lack of safety features like seat belts (although I'm sure lap belts could be added), airbags, and a collapsible steering column. Also, the gas tank sits behind the seat, with the filler neck sticking out on the side.
I agree with you that brake fluid flushing is a good practice, even though some manufacturers (including Toyota and the domestics) tend to omit it from their maintenance schedules. It is not a costly procedure.
Thank you all for your valuable suggestions. I had my car serviced at another dealer. Their price was $282.95, sounds bit ok. I had to replace my waterpump, fortunately my toyota warranty covered that, so saved $600. Total cost of my 60k mile service was $350(includes $50 deductable towards warranty) The service includes throttile service, replacing pcv valve also.
Hi there..took my 2004 camry xle for a 30k tuneup. they charged me at least 75 dollars more...husband got them to give us a credit for future use after talking to manager...any one else find that their dealership has 2 different prices for these standard checkups?
They had 2 different price lists.."dealership" vs "factory". Why the difference?
Not surprised about the 2 price lists; just surprised they were so upfront about it (and the difference was a relatively low $75). Most places would just offer the "dealership" recommendations.
Always go with the factory recommendations (keeping in mind "special operating conditions" spelled out in the manual -- that is, severe service, like towing a trailer or driving on unpaved roads). The dealer stuff consists of unneeded add-ons to get more money out of you.
Rotate tires every 5000 miles (7500 miles for rotation is okay, but means an extra service trip if you have the dealer change your oil at the recommended 5000 miles).
yeah they were not up front..(this event happened about 1 year ago) I happened to pick up two different price lists on 2 different visits (one was a glossy from the factory) and the other list was just printed on 81/2 X 11 white sheet of paper from the dealership. So when my husband went in for a 3rd visit he spoke with the manager showing him the two lists...who acquiesced, although he would not budge on the "labor" charges. I think we (I) actually paid 150 or more. Also have you noticed that prices have increased at least by $100 since last year for these package "checkups"?
Also, yesterday I went in for an oil change...basically got charged $25 w/ a coupon. They were trying to sell me the 10k mi check up w/ tire rotation. I did not see what they would have given me extra for paying $79.95 other than tire rotation. Everything else they pretty much check anyways...I found a goodyear place with 2.50 per tire rotation coupon.
Any reason to do the rotation only at the dealership..it seems like an easy enough process, no?
The one important thing about tire rotation is to be sure they use a manual torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. If they use an impact (air) wrench, you may get uneven or overtorque lug nuts which will result in warped rotors.
Comments
I kept the car highly maintained using synthetic oil.
Do you have the 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. model?
I drive in Phoenix so a lot of highway driving and some street driving. And the weather in the winters are 75 degrees everyday. I think i might just wait 6000 miles to change my next oil change that way i dont have to pay an extra 35 $ for a oil change at walmart.
A general rule of thumb is around 3000 miles per change, and you can probably add another 1000 miles with a quality synthetic oil.
Going 6000 miles on a regular basis is considered by most automotive experts to be pushing it a little, regardless of what the owner manuals say. I certainly wouldn't recommend it, altho' I'm no expert.
Here's a clip I pulled from an article on MSN showing there's an additional benefit to regular oil changes--increased gas mileage.
"Change your oil.
Changing the oil regularly is another double bonus for your car and the environment: when your engine is running in top condition, it burns fuel most efficiently. After oil changes, ask the mechanic to see that your old engine oil gets recycled, and check the replacement oil: the best oils for fuel efficiency are labelled “Energy Conserving” and can reduce your fuel consumption by 3%. Frequent tune-ups of your vehicle will also keep it running smoothly (a poorly maintained vehicle can operate 50% less efficiently!)."
Do the math--if you save 3% on fuel in a year (average driving 12000 miles per year) you'll save enough $ for an extra oil and filter change, and have some money left over!
I buy this one because Walmart charges the same price for all the synthetics.
I am going to wait till 6000 miles but do you think i should change the oil filter now and top off the oil with more synthetic?
Those claims are mostly marketing hype IMO--probably made under ideal test conditions with engines that have huge oil sump capacity, excellent filtration, regular monitoring during the program, etc.
I routinely stick to a rule of thumb 3 to 4000 miles, and have never had any problems like sludge, excessive wear, etc. The older your car's engine, the more this rule of thumb applies IMO.
One way or the other, it's your choice.
Like I said, regular oil changes are cheap insurance, and likely the most cost effective investment you can make in your car's engine.
Anyways when i do my 30000 mile service should i also get my spark plugs replaced. Also what would the estimated cost be?
My car is 90000 miles rite now. I plan to do the 90000miles-maintenance.
Except the following item I need to do, what else you guys recommend to do?! and Which store is better and cheapter?! (Dealer is out)
Tune-up
Brake service
Coolant
Tire balance and rotation
ATM(transmission)
Thanks
I was told by an acquaintance who races cars that for the engine I should keep the car under 60 miles an hour for the first 500 miles and then really push it for the next 500 miles. For the brakes, avoid hard stops for the full 1000 miles. I haven't seen the Toyota manual yet; it's in the car.
Your thinking.
Thanks,
Meegwell
It will tell you to vary your speed through the first 1000 miles, but does not give a maximum speed. Yes, be gentle on the brakes, and forget about "pushing it" for the second 500 miles.
If you do go with an aftermarket brand, do NOT buy FRAM filters!
TIA
VPM
what is that all about? do i have to do it or i can just get a regular oil change?
thanks
Check my post #674. Basically, you're looking at an oil change, a tire rotation, a visual check of the brakes (since the tires come off anyway), and visual checks of fluid levels (which you can do yourself) and the underbody. I'm assuming your car is used for normal service, not under the "special operating conditions" listed by Toyota (driving on dusty roads, towing a trailer, etc.).
List each of the items from your maintenance manual and present the list to a reputable shop, not your friendly rip-off dealer.
Oil and filter change, using Genuine Toyota Oil Filter
Fluids inspected and replenished
Multi-point vehicle inspection, including air filter and cabin air filter (on applicable models)
Tire pressure check & adjustment
Tire Rotation
Brake Inspection, including lines and hoses, linings and drums, pads and discs
are those enough for my coming service? i remember i paid around $70 last time when i did 10k miles service there.
Oil and filter change, "using Genuine Toyota Oil Filter"
Fluids inspected and replenished
Tire pressure check & adjustment
Tire Rotation
For 15K, you don't need to have the engine air filter replaced (it's good for 30K miles unless you regularly drive on dusty unpaved roads). Technically, the cabin air filter doesn't need to be replaced that often, either, but I've found mine gets plenty dirty in 15K miles.
Surely, you can check and adjust your own tire pressure? You can also raise the hood and check fluids (all have see-through containers except the engine oil, and all are likely okay except the windshield washer fluid level).
I'm not being facetious, but you cannot allow dealers to profit from not knowing what Toyota (who manufactured your car and knows better than any dealer) requires.
Besides, is K&N gold filter better than Toyota Genuine filter? Thanks.
If i could keep my warranty in effect and not take it in, i would not bother. I can change my own oil for < $20.
Yes change the water pump too. I would. You cant get to the water pump to change it without removing the timing belt anyway, so belt change is a good time to do it to save some labor cost. I don't trust water pumps, i have changed them on every single vehicle i have ever owned. So i say yeah change it. Preferably with a toyota part, they really are better.
There indeed was a time when American automanufacturers had a cozy little relationship with their respective dealer networks requiring car owners to use dealer facilities in order to maintain their warranty rights. However, in a rare display of actual intelligence, congress passed the Moss-Magnuson Act which forbids linkage of dealership service to the automakers' warranty. You can have an independant service facility of your choice perform required maintenance, or you can even do all your own service, and still maintain full warranty rights -IF- you keep reasonable documentation defined as, a) purchase receipts for materials (oil, oil filters, air filters, spark plugs, etc.) and, b) a log (a handwritten log is fine) of the date you performed the service, itemizing the procedures you performed. In the event of a warranty claim that might be related to service (or lack thereof) the automaker or his agent (the dealership) have the RIGHT to demand evidence that the owner's manual specified service was done in a timely manner. THAT's the reason for keeping a log and receipts. As long as you can supply that documentation, the automaker has a vertical battle trying to deny the claim unless it can prove fraud on the owner's part in criminal court - not an easy sell where the burden of proof is "beyond a reasonable doubt" and the jury's decision for a guilty verdict has to be unanimous.
Having outlined all that, I should also bring up the issue of non-manufacturer extended service contracts. Since these are not issued by the auto manufacturer, legally, they're not actual warranties. If these contracts specify dealership maintenance to establish repair performance, the car owner is probably on the hook to the dealership for routine maintenance. Owners who bought into the new car sales manager's smooth talk for one of these contracts should check the fine print for any dealership-linkage "gotchas".
Exception = if you run Mobil 1 oil. This is the best oil you can buy and you can run this oil for 10,000 miles if you had to. But to me 7,500 is more like it.
What "Inspections" and "Replacements" are mandatory? - I will willingly comply.
Thanks for your assistance.
Luckily, the 4-cylinder Camry's engine is of the non-interference type, so you won't tear up the engine if the timing belt goes. But you'll still be stranded.
I changed my plugs with a few scrapes and cuts for $55. Aint easy but can be done. And your service at that price, sounds like an oil change, air filter and plugs and a brake inspection/tire rotation. Please correct me if im wrong.
BTW my oil changes (the most important maintenance and the only one you shouldnt ever put off) cost about $10 or less. I buy my oil by the case and use rebates.
At 60 k miles theres not a whole lot of maintenance to be done but i would change the tranny fluid and the coolant. For the trans you might need to use T IV ATF fluid (check your owners manual), which you can only buy from Toyota. It is $5 a qt but the job is easy to do, easier than changing the oil. You would need a 10 mm hex and about 4 qts if you dont pull the pan (and at that mileage i didnt think there was need to, nor is there much need to flush if you change the ATF every 30,000).
Then you're good til about 90 k at which time, you will need to do the timing belt and this is a big hit dollar wise. Im doing mine myself, when its due. Because you might get quotes of up to $700 for this job.
Thanks to all who responded.
For the first year I have been changing oil every 3 months, basically less and 2K miles on it. I mostly drive in the city. But I do warm the car in the morning and after work (for about 1-2 minutes before running it. I don't if this helps or not.
I use Mobil 5/30 syn. oil with toyota filters.
Q. I am thinking of changing oil only after 6 months as toyota manual says. Any thing wrong here?
Q1. What do you guys think of K&N oil filter? It is $10 filter with semi. syn. filter paper in it. Looks good and heard good thing about it on the net too?
Q2. Do you guys recommend/suggest adding some additives like prolong along with oil change.
Ang comments or suggestions
1. It will be fine to switch to 6-month intervals, especially since you're already using synthetic, as long as you don't exceed 5000 miles in those 6 months.
2. I'd personally just stick with the Toyota filters (and that's what I use in both my '04 and '05 Camrys).
3. Don't put in any additives. They are worthless snake oils, and especially so given that you're using synthetic oil.
Few more questions:
Is it better to start and warm the car for 1-2 minutes before driving it. Does it do any good or not really?
Filter.
I have no problem using toyota filter but K&N filter has semi-synthetic paper filter inside it and both have back up value to hold oil in the filter when not driving. Reason asking about K&N is when I am changing oil every 6 months then it might be better.
Let's see, who do you think can design the best filter: the Toyota engineers who developed the engine or the K&N guys who have to make "one size fits all" filters and hope their advertising gets the sales?
1) The manual recommendation is an excellent "safe harbor" rule. Drivers who abuse their engines (meaning those who accelerate very heavily with less than 30 seconds of warmup in the winter, Racer types, etc) will just about reach the limit at the recommended interval. NORMAL DRIVERS ARE EXTREMELY SAFE at the factory recommendations. Mobil 1 is a fine oil but is not needed for the factory intervals in a nonabusive driver.
2) see #1 and only consider expensive filters if you are an abusive driver.
3) additives are unnecessary again if you are normal driver.
For a normal driver, your driving habits and following the Owner's manual recommendations are certainly adequate to obtaining average (180,000) miles from a Camry engine but with your city driving, you may only sucessfully obtain 75-80% of that.
I personally was a quality control engineer for VW in the late 70's and early 80's when the Rabbit was built in Pennsylvania. MY INFORMATION FROM THAT ERA IS NOT APPLICABLE TO 2006 vehicles!! Many opinions that you recieve USED TO BE CORRECT but THE CORRECT INFORMATION HAS CHANGED!! Please follow the Toyota FACTORY manual for recommendations and you cannot go wrong their reputation hinges upon those recommendations. Dealers often have a "different set of recommendations that are frequently overkill.
Dave McCreary
How often do I need to change the transmission fluid?. I had it replaced at 45K.
Thanks in advance
How many people keep the same car that long? I'm one of the outliers, but even I kept my Volvo 240 for "only" 21 years (and about 245K miles)!
My advice: copy everything the manual states is needed at 60K miles, then take your list to a reputable, independent shop. Ask friends, neighbors, or co-workers for recommendations. You don't have to subsidize the dealer's yacht payments!
Don't let anyone talk you into items that aren't on your list (and if they're a good shop, they shouldn't in the first place). Common add-ons: fuel injector cleaning, transmission flush, and "tune ups."
However, if they do find something amiss, have them show you the problem before you authorize any further work (e.g., worn brake pads).
Those Chevy trucks from the 1948-54 period are real classics; I love their style, and I wouldn't mind having one to bring to car shows. However, I'd never consider one as a daily driver due to their lack of safety features like seat belts (although I'm sure lap belts could be added), airbags, and a collapsible steering column. Also, the gas tank sits behind the seat, with the filler neck sticking out on the side.
I agree with you that brake fluid flushing is a good practice, even though some manufacturers (including Toyota and the domestics) tend to omit it from their maintenance schedules. It is not a costly procedure.
they charged me at least 75 dollars more...husband got them to give us a credit for future use after talking to manager...any one else find that their dealership has 2 different prices for these standard checkups?
They had 2 different price lists.."dealership" vs "factory". Why the difference?
Also, how often should tires be rotated?
Always go with the factory recommendations (keeping in mind "special operating conditions" spelled out in the manual -- that is, severe service, like towing a trailer or driving on unpaved roads). The dealer stuff consists of unneeded add-ons to get more money out of you.
Rotate tires every 5000 miles (7500 miles for rotation is okay, but means an extra service trip if you have the dealer change your oil at the recommended 5000 miles).
yeah they were not up front..(this event happened about 1 year ago) I happened to pick up two different price lists on 2 different visits (one was a glossy from the factory) and the other list was just printed on 81/2 X 11 white sheet of paper from the dealership. So when my husband went in for a 3rd visit he spoke with the manager showing him the two lists...who acquiesced, although he would not budge on the "labor" charges. I think we (I) actually paid 150 or more. Also have you noticed that prices have increased at least by $100 since last year for these package "checkups"?
Also, yesterday I went in for an oil change...basically got charged $25 w/ a coupon. They were trying to sell me the 10k mi check up w/ tire rotation. I did not see what they would have given me extra for paying $79.95 other than tire rotation. Everything else they pretty much check anyways...I found a goodyear place with 2.50 per tire rotation coupon.
Any reason to do the rotation only at the dealership..it seems like an easy enough process, no?
Thanks for your feedback