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Toyota Camry Brakes
I had to replace the original front and rear brake pads as well as the rear rotors at 42,000 (50-75% highway) miles. Is this what other people are getting? I was suprised that the rear pads/rotors wore out faster than the front. are the front and rear designed to wear out at the same time or are the rear ones supposed to last longer? Thanks.
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Could anyone give me some advise, please?
Thank you!
I do a lot of my own maintenance, but I leave the brake work to the pros (except for changing out the fluid).
When you first turn the ignition to the "on" position (don't start the engine just yet), there is a yellow warning light that goes on momentarily and says "abs." You may have to do this several times, because there are so many warning lights, and about half of them go off in a short time, including the ABS light.
I was under the impression that ABS was standard on ALL 2005 Camrys, despite what the brochure implies.
Ken
Recently I found its front driver caliper seized, and break pads totally worn. The hubcap was warped and had a hole melted through it in the center (only a cheap replacement hubcap). I assume its because of the heat generated by the brake being on while it was driven.
I'm planning to replace the caliper, pads and rotors. Should I also replace the hub/bearing assembly? how hard is that to do? Should I also be concered about ball joints?
It included changing brake rotors, which cost about 100 dollars each. (just the front)
Is it really necessary to change the brake rotors? Why can't I just change the pads.
I have a 2000 camry, with 40k miles on it. It's the first time I'm changing my brakes since I bought the car.
I know that I have to change the rotors if there is a vibration when I apply brakes, but there is no vibration.
I didn't think changing the brakes cost this much.
(I thought I saw somewhere I can change each pad for around 50 bucks)
Am I being ripped off? or should I change the rotors?
Thanks.
I will definitely get an second opinion.
They try to make me believe that changing the rotors is a normal thing.
Didn't even mention the resurfacing.
Also, the Toyota Camry's front brakes have the device that makes the brakes squeak very loudly when the pads are worn to the point of needing replacement.
Do yours squeak loudly or not?
There is no hard and fast rule on the number of miles you can get on a pair of brake pads. On my former '97 Camry, the front brake pads didn't require replacement until 109K miles, but my wife and I are conservative drivers.
But I still think you ought to get someone to tell you how much thickness you have remaining on at least your front pads (I think 1 mm is the minimum thickness).
Regarding self-adjusting rear drum brakes, I would assume (but am not certain) they'd adjust in the manner haefr mentions (stopping while backing up). A lot of people never use the parking brake, so it seems a company would open itself up to liability suits for not providing the reversing-type self-adjusting method.
I'll accept your interpretation of the 1990 Toyota Camry shop manual as gospel, but I would offer an additional point that is pertinent to at least some makes. My '03 Sonata has disc rear brakes, but a "top hat" style parking brake drum cast integrally with the rear rotors. When I yank the parking brake on before shifting to "Park", two shoes per rear wheel internally engage the described drum. It adjusts automatically with each application of the parking brake. As such it also doubles as somewhat of an emergency brake system in the event of total service brake failure since it's divorced from the hydraulic system - strictly mechanically activated through cabling from the parking brake lever. While those brake shoes automatically adjust as described, the cable will stretch over time slightly. The slack can be readjusted at the parking brake lever once the floor console is removed. I agree with 210delray's response #603 that too many drivers are oblivious to the presence of a parking brake handle or pedal. If any automaker depends on fastidious application of the parking brake by owners to maintain conventional rear drum-only braking adjustment, then their decision borders on felonious shortsightedness and reckless endangerment as far as I'm concerned. (not to mention the millions that could be assessed in civil class-action product liability litigation) It was drummed into me in high school drivers' ed. (1961) not to EVER depend entirely on engaging the "Park" pawl in automatic transmissions if for no other reason than to save a very expensive transmission tear-down to replace a broken parking pawl in the event your parked car is rear-ended by some moron. Unfortunately for all of us, FWD cars apply parking pawl lock to the front wheels. If our cars get creamed while parked, we may very well be on the hook for very expensive trannie work in addition to whatever body and frame damage.
I'm confused and cam't seem to find someone who can really explain what needs to be done.
Help!
Rob
Anytime they replace struts, they must do wheel alignment. That is a necessary expense.
Good luck
Joe
While driving, I don't feel any problem as for braking (I am not familiar with car mechanism, though.)
My question is:
1. Does this brakes problem commonly happen to recent camry models with around 20k mileage?
2. I wonder if adjusting and cleaning brakes can be done under warranty. Then I'd go to a dealer for this matter.
I'd appreciate your input :-)
READ YOUR MAINTENANCE MANUAL. Don't authorize service to be done in the absence of real symptoms, or a requirement spelled out in the manual. And no, brakes are considered wear items and are generally not covered under the warranty except under very specific conditions.
And yes, they do need adjusting on occasion, ~50,000 miles or more, but knowing these aftermarket rip-off artists such as Firestone I very much doubt if you needed it, certainly not the cleaning "bit".
Park your car facing uphill on a fairly steep incline and if normal application, no extra effort, on the e-brake holds the car in place there is no need for adjustment.
You don't need any cleaning or adjustment at this low mileage without symptoms.
However, Toyota recommends checking front brake pads and rear brake linings for wear every 15K miles. Practically speaking, however, the rear drums typically show minimal wear for many more than 20K miles, unless you're heavy and frequent on the brakes.
I heard from many sources that Toyota parts are recommended and it's not a great idea to get other brands!!?
From a quick search on the internet, I was able to get some brand names that fit my car (i.e. Brembo, EBC, Power Slot, Akebono). Some of these brands are OEM, does that make it like the original Toyota parts?! Also, some of these brands are rated performance parts, does that make them better quality part?!
1 - A loud noise from under the car starts around 45 mph and sometimes gets louder the faster I go. We took it to the dealer, and they said it was road noise. It can be so loud and the vibration that comes through the gas pedal is a bit unnerving. Anyone else have this problem? I thought I remembered Camry's being quiet cars.
2 - When i go to slow down and slightly press on the brake pedal, the brakes (and steering wheel) will shake violently. It just started in the recent months and has gotten worse. Are the brakes going? I saw an earlier post where the dealer said it was a computer issue. I don't understand that. I am hoping to find the time this weekend to take it in, but my work schedule does not really permit it.
Thanks for any and all help!
It sounds like your front rotors might be warped. When you start to put the brakes on, the pads start to squeeze against the rotor which if not true....will appear to you as a vibration. This will be in sequence with how fast the wheel is turning, so the vibration would slow down as you slow down.
I'd get it to the dealer or a brake shop and have them drive it.
For some reason, my friend had not noticed but I did notice a loud noise similar to the one you mentioned. After I mentioned this to him he agreed and we were almost sure that this was engine related.
On diagnosis at the dealership, this turned out to be a bearing related issue on one of the wheels. The bearing was replaced and all is well since then. Approx cost, I believe, was $500.
The second issue sounds like a warped rotor as the previous post mentioned.
anyway along the lines of previous comments, visually inspect the tires.
tires cupping (google it) can cause great vibration. this is uneven wear that results in the tire actually bouncing and results in more wear (it just gets worse).
bearings, an out of balance tire (lost it's balance weight perhaps or the balance weight got moved when someone hit a curb hard), worn shocks / suspension parts...a lot of factors can contribute.
i had this happen to a Jetta I owned once. had to replace tires. once replaced with a properly balanced set, no road noise or vibration.
when i replace tires, i get an alignment done. it's more expensive, but i think ultimately worth it to get the most tread life from the tires.
As 210delray said, I would avoid Firestone too. Buy tires from them but go no further. Most of these shops do not have competent mechanics to do the additional services that they are trying to sell you. Plus all of them seem to be in the business of selling services you do not need. I have never taken my car in for a tire purchase/rotation without a follow up call for 'urgent maintenance' needed. My strategy after years of taking cars to various places is to stick with either the dealer (do only what the manual requires) OR use a local mechanic (not a franchise) that you may trust. My 2003 Camry goes to the dealer and my 82 VW goes to a local mechanic that has worked on it since I bought it.