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Toyota Camry Brakes

bshengbsheng Posts: 5
I had to replace the original front and rear brake pads as well as the rear rotors at 42,000 (50-75% highway) miles. Is this what other people are getting? I was suprised that the rear pads/rotors wore out faster than the front. are the front and rear designed to wear out at the same time or are the rear ones supposed to last longer? Thanks.


  • sev6sev6 Posts: 26
    I think rears last longer. I saw your post on camryman too. Maybe someone else can help.
  • pumspums Posts: 1
    I am a prowd owner of a '98 Camry LE. However, had a bad experience this wkend when my Camry started emitting smokes from both front wheels (!) and then flames started coming from inside the right front wheel (!!!). I panicked, took it to Firestone (nearest trustworthy auto garage) and they diagnosed Brake caliper seizure, hose leakage and bearing damage. All in all, the job cost me $940 (!!!). Is such cases common...any reason that it happenned..i had purchased the car from a dealer in May end (it has 75000+ on it). nd is what i paid too much. Need guidance...also on what other checks to be done to prevent such incidents in future...
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    take it to the dealer and have them re-do your brake. I have a 97, took it to a cheap-o-brake shop, tried to save a buck. The brake didn't even last for a year. Took it to TOYOTA, man, it costs more but sure they did a much better job. In the long run, it pays off.
  • ben2350ben2350 Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a '99 Camry LE (4cyl) and my front brakes need to be changed. I have watched a mechanic change brake pads on my other car a while back but am not sure if I remember every step/tools that he used.

    Could anyone give me some advise, please?

    Thank you!
  • I've recently purchased Camry STD 2005. I noticed that some of 2005 STDs came with no ABS. Does anybody know how to find out whether my car has it?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If you're not sure what you're doing, I'd say not to risk it. It doesn't cost all that much to have a professional change the pads.

    I do a lot of my own maintenance, but I leave the brake work to the pros (except for changing out the fluid).
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You could ask your salesman. (Just kidding!)

    When you first turn the ignition to the "on" position (don't start the engine just yet), there is a yellow warning light that goes on momentarily and says "abs." You may have to do this several times, because there are so many warning lights, and about half of them go off in a short time, including the ABS light.

    I was under the impression that ABS was standard on ALL 2005 Camrys, despite what the brochure implies.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    The early production models did not have it as standard equipment, and they changed it about halfway through the year.

  • Thank you, 210delray
  • ben2350ben2350 Posts: 2
    Thanks for replying to my post! I agree with your point of not messing with my brakes :) However, I just want to get more independent atleast on the basic repair needs of my car. I would probably take it to the mechanic and this might be the last time I get it done there...
  • My 97 camry sat for 6 months before my sister drove it.
    Recently I found its front driver caliper seized, and break pads totally worn. The hubcap was warped and had a hole melted through it in the center (only a cheap replacement hubcap). I assume its because of the heat generated by the brake being on while it was driven.

    I'm planning to replace the caliper, pads and rotors. Should I also replace the hub/bearing assembly? how hard is that to do? Should I also be concered about ball joints?
  • I got a quote from Meineke for a brake job. The total amount was 450 bucks.
    It included changing brake rotors, which cost about 100 dollars each. (just the front)
    Is it really necessary to change the brake rotors? Why can't I just change the pads.
    I have a 2000 camry, with 40k miles on it. It's the first time I'm changing my brakes since I bought the car.
    I know that I have to change the rotors if there is a vibration when I apply brakes, but there is no vibration.

    I didn't think changing the brakes cost this much.
    (I thought I saw somewhere I can change each pad for around 50 bucks)
    Am I being ripped off? or should I change the rotors?

  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Not all chain service facility store managers are as reputable as they could be since sales volume is rewarded (or penalized for lack thereof). Unless the Meineke tech dismounted one or both of your front brake rotors and demonstrated excessive lateral runout, or you are actually experiencing pedal pulsation when you brake, I find it hard to accept that store's diagnosis that your rotors have to be summarily replaced. Even if there was pulsating, virtually any rotor can accept ONE resurfacing, though the situation becomes murky for a second resurfacing. The fact that you managed 40,000 miles on the factory pads is ample testimony to your conservative driving style. (You got about 10,000 more miles than the average.) Get a second opinion - I think you're being played. If you want to try the job yourself, a full set of Raybestos "lifetime" replacement pads (a set services both front wheels) - at Pep Boys are less than $30.00. If your car came with ceramic pads, those may cost more. Sometimes the local high-school auto shop will have students do the labor for the experience if you supply the materials. (with oversight by the instructor that the kids did it right)
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    Why not get an estimate from your dealer? He may be more likely to give you an honest assessment.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Oh, brother... Stealership service managers and service writers live and die (professionally speaking) by sales volume, too. Get it? Service departments are there for two reasons: sales and manufacturer requirements to obtain the franchise. From the manufacturer's perspective in order of importance: to handle warranty claims and to enhance the stealership's bottom line. From the stealership's perspective in order of importance: to enhance the stealership's bottom line and to handle warranty claims.
  • Thanks for the reply.
    I will definitely get an second opinion.
    They try to make me believe that changing the rotors is a normal thing.
    Didn't even mention the resurfacing.
  • I own a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE-V6. The front brakes squeal when applied and you can feel and hear grinding when they are applied forcefully. I had the brakes done about 8,000 miles ago. Are the squealing noise and the grinding normal? If not, what do they indicate and what should I instruct my mechanic to do? By the way, the brake job consisted of replacing the front disc pads (semi-metallic, as recommended by Toyota) and rotors and cost $330. However, the parts were aftermarket, not Toyota original parts. Should that make a difference and would aftermarket parts cause squealing and grinding? Thanks.
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    I can feel the steering wheel is vibrating when pressing the brake paddle on my 97 Camry, especially down the hill. I recently changed the front brake pad with the rotor turned. Can anybody advise what could be the reason for this? Many thanks!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    If the rotors were turned past their safe thickness wear limit, they'll soon warp under the heat of brake application, and applying the brakes when negotiating downhill grades will exacerbate the situation. Once warped, the result is vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal. You'll probably need to have both front rotors replaced with new ones, now.
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks! I will get it checked this weekend.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    Another thing that will quickly warp rotors are over-torqued or unevenly torqued lug nuts. Toyota lug nut torque is typically only about 78 ft-lbs, way lower than the typical American car which is 100 ft-lbs. If you had the brake job done at a shop that doesn't do a lot of Toyotas, they may have over-torqued the lug nuts.
  • When i brake it starts squeaking. so i went to my regular mechanic who recommended me getting my pads changed in front. then i went to the toyota service guy who told me i didnt need to get my pads changed. a simple cleaning and adjusting of my brakes next time i serviced my car should be good, and he said the pads can last until around 90,000 miles if your not a hard braker, (i am not a hard braker). Anyone suggestions on what i should do?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Well, the brakes are self-adjusting front and rear, so there's no need to adjust the brakes manually unless something is amiss. If the pads are worn sufficiently, they should be replaced. And, there's really nothing to clean either.

    Also, the Toyota Camry's front brakes have the device that makes the brakes squeak very loudly when the pads are worn to the point of needing replacement.

    Do yours squeak loudly or not?

    There is no hard and fast rule on the number of miles you can get on a pair of brake pads. On my former '97 Camry, the front brake pads didn't require replacement until 109K miles, but my wife and I are conservative drivers.
  • They squeak only when i brake very hard rarly. the main occasions this happen is when i drive in a photo camera intersection and the light turns yellow, i dont want to take any chances :)
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 321
    Rear brakes are self adjusting only if they are disc brakes. Rear drum brakes are adjusted on many Toyotas by regularly using parking brake.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I don't believe your explanation is correct. Drum brake self-adjusters operate whenever stopping a vehicle that's backing up.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 321
    Not every vehicle uses that method of adjusting rear drums. As stated some Toyotas use the parking brake to adjust rear brakes. My 1989 Camry uses that method as stated in service manual.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Then it doesn't sound like the front pads are worn enough to activate the screeching mechanism (really just a strip of metal that contacts the brake rotor).

    But I still think you ought to get someone to tell you how much thickness you have remaining on at least your front pads (I think 1 mm is the minimum thickness).

    Regarding self-adjusting rear drum brakes, I would assume (but am not certain) they'd adjust in the manner haefr mentions (stopping while backing up). A lot of people never use the parking brake, so it seems a company would open itself up to liability suits for not providing the reversing-type self-adjusting method.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 321
    Go ask a mechanic. He'll tell you there's more than one way to adjust rear drum brakes. A lot of people never use the parking brake and that's why there are stories of people getting run over by their own car. The park mechanism was never meant to be used as the primary holding device, it was meant to be used as backup to parking brake.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "Not every vehicle uses that method of adjusting rear drums. As stated some Toyotas use the parking brake to adjust rear brakes. My 1989 Camry uses that method as stated in service manual."

    I'll accept your interpretation of the 1990 Toyota Camry shop manual as gospel, but I would offer an additional point that is pertinent to at least some makes. My '03 Sonata has disc rear brakes, but a "top hat" style parking brake drum cast integrally with the rear rotors. When I yank the parking brake on before shifting to "Park", two shoes per rear wheel internally engage the described drum. It adjusts automatically with each application of the parking brake. As such it also doubles as somewhat of an emergency brake system in the event of total service brake failure since it's divorced from the hydraulic system - strictly mechanically activated through cabling from the parking brake lever. While those brake shoes automatically adjust as described, the cable will stretch over time slightly. The slack can be readjusted at the parking brake lever once the floor console is removed. I agree with 210delray's response #603 that too many drivers are oblivious to the presence of a parking brake handle or pedal. If any automaker depends on fastidious application of the parking brake by owners to maintain conventional rear drum-only braking adjustment, then their decision borders on felonious shortsightedness and reckless endangerment as far as I'm concerned. (not to mention the millions that could be assessed in civil class-action product liability litigation) It was drummed into me in high school drivers' ed. (1961) not to EVER depend entirely on engaging the "Park" pawl in automatic transmissions if for no other reason than to save a very expensive transmission tear-down to replace a broken parking pawl in the event your parked car is rear-ended by some moron. Unfortunately for all of us, FWD cars apply parking pawl lock to the front wheels. If our cars get creamed while parked, we may very well be on the hook for very expensive trannie work in addition to whatever body and frame damage.
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