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Toyota Camry Fuel and Fuel System Questions

2

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    benarizonabenarizona Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Camry 4 cylinder that hasa hard time starting. It does not sound like a starter problem. I believe it is a fuel problem.

    Here is what happens
    1st crank - click no start
    2nd crank - Click no start
    3rd crank - Click half start
    4th crank - Click and starts like it should.

    This is repeated everytime i start the car, but other than that it runs just fine. Problem has been like this about two weeks or so. Since it was the holidays I just drove my jeep cherokee. But i need to get this fixed before i get back to the normal routine... I have a few ideas what it might be, but no definite.

    Help please.
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    benarizonabenarizona Member Posts: 3
    I had the timing belt replace about a month ago. Could this have any effect Could it run fine for a few weeks then slip, causing this issue? I also have an anti theft detterent system from toyota that when doing the starting cycle beeped and lit up the red indicator and would not start until i removed the key and tried again. Before this everything was fine.
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Either the timing belt or the theft deterrent could be the problem, but it's hard to say over the internet.

    You could go to an auto parts store. The ones in my area (most commonly Advance Auto) do free checking of the charging system (alternator and battery).
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    benarizonabenarizona Member Posts: 3
    yeah i have done that they check out at 100%
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    docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    I'm probably in the wrong site for this but I'll try my luck. I parked my 1993 Camry LE the other day and I noticed some steam coming from the engine. I could not see any leaks and there was still some presure in the upper rad hose. The car was difficult to start but I did manage to get it going. The engine temperature gage was reading hot so I tried to take some of the heat off the engine by turning on the interior heater. Just cold air came out. The ac was off the heater turned to high. This led me to believe I was out of coolant. I drove a bit more making sure the temp. indicator didn't hit the red area. The car then died. I checked the rad and it was bone dry. I went to get a gallon of coolant and put it in the rad. I tried to start the car and all it does is turn over. All the belts move and there is some compression at the tail pipe. I think it MAY be the EFI relay. There is a click at the relay when the key is turned on but there is no HUMMMMM anymore. This may be the fuel pump engaging. I'm fine with the new water pump. Fuel systems.....HELP PLEASE
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Let it totally cool down overnight, and then fill the radiator with water. You getting no heat out of the heater indicates that there isn't water in the heater coil and radiator, which you now know.

    If you were trying to restart it when hot, you could have too much metal friction.
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    brad1221brad1221 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 toyota camry V6 it had a head gasket leak. after replacing the gaskets it would not start. after several hours of checking I found that it is flooding. after cleaning the plugs and drying the cylinders it will fire for about 2 seconds and then I have to do it all over again. does anybody have any ideas
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    steino1steino1 Member Posts: 1
    It simply died as I was driving ~35 mph. It had a full tank and no engine lights were on prior to it dying. I know fuel pumps can just go out, but what should I check first?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be a thousand things.

    Does the starter crank the engine, indicating that the battery has voltage?

    Have you had the timing belt replaced in the last 90K miles? Could be the timing belt broke...so check to see if your camshaft is turning.

    Assuming that is okay, pull a plug and check for a spark.
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    rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    This should be easy if it died and wont start. Like the last post check engine timing belt then check big fuses outside in the engine compartment in the black box.

    The answers in the black box.
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    hannabananahannabanana Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 camry v6 with 160k. It will crank and start just fine, but after about 3 seconds it dies like it is out of gas. If I restart it, it will crank normally and start right up, and do the same thing. It dies every time, without fail. If you press the pedal, it will run a little longer, but the rpms keep falling until it dies. If you hold it at 3 thousand or higher, it keeps running, but roughly. I don't know too much about cars and can't afford to play the guessing game. I think it must be fuel delivery. could it be a fuel pump? fuel filter? fuel pressure pump? some kind of sensor. any ideas are appreciated. thanks
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    rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Sounds like an air induction problem or the computer getting a bad fuel/air mixture signal.

    Check the duct going into the intake and big rubber hoses attached to the intake manifold and this duct. It starts at the air filter. At three thousnd it might not pick up the air leak since more air is running through the engine at that speed.
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    rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I missed runs rough after starting at 3000 rpm's.

    I d do your own compression check on the front bank and the one spark plug on the rear bank of cylinders. To get started, you need a spark plug socket and ratchet and extension, plus compression gage at Sears $30.00 dollars. Check My Carspace.
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    hannabananahannabanana Member Posts: 3
    I had my brother help me look at the car. We couldn't find any vacuum leaks. He did an old fashioned test of putting a little bit of gas in the air filter to see if the car is getting fuel. Sure enough, the car ran fine until it burned out the gas, and then it stalled. He thought that was a sure sign of a fuel pump problem. We replaced the fuel pump, and it did not fix the problem. It did not seem like there was much or any fuel pressure in the lines. Is there a way to check the pressure in the line? Is it possibly some air flow issue still, even given the fact that it keeps running with gas poured in the air ducts (which seems like fuel delivery to me)? What about EGR or iac valves or mas airflow sensor? These parts are expensive--is there any way to test them? the car is throwing a code, but I don't want to spring a hundred and fifty bucks for the reader unless it will tell me exactly what is going on. Thanks
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is the fuel pump turning on, and pumping fuel? Does it have electrical power?
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    hannabananahannabanana Member Posts: 3
    yes, the fuel pump turns on (I can hear it), so it's not the fuse or electrical. Now, I don't know if the pump is actually pumping or if the fuel filter is allowing fuel to get pumped.
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    rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    If the air duct from the air filter has a crack, it screws up the mass air flow sensor readings and runs poorly.

    I'd remove it and look under it for a crack along a seam on one of the ribs. A squeeze test of this duct while running, will cause it to stall out.

    Dont buy a Mass Air Sensor till your sure it is bad. I bet if you disconnect the Mass Air Flow sensor it will still run. Some cars computers go into default and will still run on the default settings if it senses a malfunction in the Mass Air Flow Sensor.
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    djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning All:

    I just returned from a road trip to New York State. I traveled at 70mph on the NYSTW, and the vehicle got 31mpg! ---- This was achieved on 87 off-brand fuel. ---This is OUTSTANDING for a V6 engine.

    On entering the highway from a rest stop, I accelerated "hard" to see how this vehicle would perform. Within seconds it reached 80mph! ----- The shifts were smooth and positive. (The vehicle peformed like a "ROCKET"!) This vehicle could easily cruise at 100mph! (I would love to try this for about 1/2 hour somewhere if "RADAR" was not an issue !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)--------- It is truly a road car! --- (Life was more fun years ago without road radar.)

    Best regards! ------------------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
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    clindstromclindstrom Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 toy camry with 256K on it. It is a 4cyl. It will start and run great, however when you give it gas it chugs and close to stalling. When you give it gas slowly it will not chug, well just not as much. When you give it gas it is very slugish. check eng light came on. Could this be a trans or fule system problem? What could be doing this?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be any number of things. Take it somewhere and have the computer read, which will give you the error code. That error code will tell you the area that is causing the problem. Many autoparts chains will read the error free of charge for you, and suggest what the parts are to fix the problem.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    ...256K........

    Burned/leaking intake valves.

    Combusted gasses only leak back into the intake manifold and ignite the gas there (stumble..) with HIGH cylinder charge volume.
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    skoman1skoman1 Member Posts: 2
    Help... Took my Camry in after the check engine light came on, dealer stated "need to replace right side air flow sensors and the manifold" based on the codes extrated... $1500.00. Car has 68,000 miles on it and runs like a top. Service manager states the air flow sensors are measuring the air and fuel mixture incorrectly (to lean).

    Anybody heard of this? Can't find any info on this.... Help.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You are not providing enough information.

    Did he tell you the error codes that the computer had in it?

    You indicate that he is going to replace the air flow sensor AND the manifold....which doesn't make sense for a first time diagnostic problem. I can see replacing a sensor, I can't see replacing a manifold unless there was reason to believe it was cracked or a gasket bad found through other testing.

    Get the error codes from him, or if the light is still on go to an autoparts store where they can pull the error codes for you.

    Is he talking about the Mass Air Flow sensor, an Oxygen Sensor, or something else?
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    clindstromclindstrom Member Posts: 2
    Hey thanks, I got error P0441. It says it is a leak in the VSV or bad charcoal system. How do you find out if you have a bad VSV. They all seem to be pushing air flow. However one is not??? Should they all be pushing air when you take the hose off?

    Thank you!!!!!
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You should look up TSB EG036-06. Your vehicle may be out of warranty, but some of the system may be covered by warranty. Don't know the VIN number of your vehicle, and whether this applies to you.

    I tried sending it to clindstrom@carspace.com, let's see if that works

    You need to go to your carspace area, your toolbox, then mailbox section
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    skoman1skoman1 Member Posts: 2
    Finally got the codes from the service manager,
    He stated that these codes (P2195, P0171, P0174) had to do with the oxygen sensor's measuring "to lean", therefore sending data that more fuel is needed and the engine is burning more fuel and emitting more emissions into the environment than it should. He stated "Toyota's fix for this includes changing the O2 sensors and also changing the manifold to a newer style manifold which positions the sensors in a better position" I told him it is a very costly repair for me and he suggested an option of just replacing the O2 sensors with the style that is on there now for a cheaper option.

    He said another set of codes also appeared (P0441 & P 0446) that deals with some type of air leak in the fuel system, but does not know if that has to do with the above mentioned problem that is all related.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. How difficult is it to change the O2 sensors on my own?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That is certainly clearer now. They are referencing the exhaust manifold, which is what bolts on to the side of the engine and captures the exhaust gases from the cylinders, and then starts to feed it down toward the exhaust pipes and catalytic converter. An O2 sensor sits before and after the catalytic converter, and the computer uses those engine output signals to adjust the 'input' fuel mixture.....to get a clean burning mixture.

    O2 sensors do go bad, and are reasonably easy to replace. Personally, I would think long and hard about replacing the exhaust manifold.....they would normally last forever on engines, there is nothing to wear. I think I'd be calling the service manager and ask them to escalate to Toyota on your behalf. If there really is a new design manifold, and they are stating the old design is designed defectively, then I'd ask for Toyota to eat the cost of the replacement. I doubt that they'd do that, but I'd be asking.
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    trublsmtrublsm Member Posts: 6
    Car ran lousey for a day then it stalled and would not start.Should I be able to hear electric fuel pump when key is in start posision?>
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I doubt it, unless you have really good hearing. I've never heard a fuel pump for any of the vehicles we've owned over the years.
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    trublsmtrublsm Member Posts: 6
    thanks fror advice
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    A DC ampmeter in place of the fuel pump fuse would tell you.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The fuse is on a circuit with other things.
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    lou1963lou1963 Member Posts: 4
    camry will not run , i was told it is not the fuel pump a guy changed it out and then put the old one back on. the next day the car started and ran for a week. same thing then happened. it would not start another guy checked fuel pressure and it would not hold fuel pressure. thought he found a loose efi relay it then started and ran for another week. now wont run again could it be the fuel pump ? or is it electrical please help
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    lou1963lou1963 Member Posts: 4
    I ALSO SWAPPED OUT THE BLACK FUSE/ RELAY BOX WITH A KNOWN GOOD ONE FROM ANOTHER CAMRY BUT THIS DID NOT FIX IT EITHER
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Unless one of the injector has failed, is failed, the fuel pressure should take seevral minutes to "leak" down.

    Was the old fuel pump put back in because the car failed in the same way with the new one..??

    Intermittently sticking fuel pressure relief valve would be my next guess/trial.
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    lou1963lou1963 Member Posts: 4
    where would the fuel pressure relief vavle be located ? the car would not start at all with the old or new fuel pump thats why the old one was put back on/in. the car majically started up after the old pump was put on. we tried jumpering power to the fuel pump and the car would run for 6 - 10 seconds at most then stall
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    There is a fuel line coming from the tank/fuel pump and another one back to the tank from the pressure regulator. The pressure regulator bypasses excess fuel/(pressure) back into the tank. Some mechanics would temporarily pinch off the return line (vise grips or hemostat) to see if that allows the pressure to rise.
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    marvinemrymarvinemry Member Posts: 1
    Im trying to replace the fuel sensor in 2000 camry, do I have to take the whole tank off or is there an easier way?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take the back seat out, and get to the top of the tank from the access panel.
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    27282728 Member Posts: 2
    1999 Toyota Camry-recently i have been having difficulty putting gas from the nozzle to the tank at normal squeeze--it shuts off. if i squeeze the nozzle very lightly its OK but it takes forever to fill tank. It will either shut off at normal squeeze, or even overflow badly. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be or what to check? I'm 83 years old and need help! Thanks.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Put the nozzle into the filler tube further, or turn the angle of the nozzle, you're probably not putting the nozzle into the filler tube correctly.

    Try going to a different gas station to use a different pump.
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    27282728 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Thanks, but I've tried this already! This is something that has just happened all of a sudden. Is there a filter or valve that could be clogged or stuck?
    To completely fill the tank, it might take over a half hour or more now!!
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    chip65chip65 Member Posts: 1
    Purchased a 2010 Camry XLE 4 cyl last week before the recall. Just my luck. Was informed by the sales people that Toyota is now recommending synthetic oil and a change frequency of 10,000 miles or one year for this car. This isn't out in any manuals as yet and Toyota could not tell me when it would come out or how the info would be sent to customers. Check with your Toyota service departments.
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    There's no filter in that location, nor to I believe any kind of valve.

    You should take the car to a reputable mechanic; you certainly don't want to risk spilling gas on yourself!
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    richzimmerichzimme Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    Mechanic replaced the 0 rings, but car (2000 Camry) continued to leak fuel (very heavily). The leak occurs about every other day and I can't pinpoint why, although it seems to occur mostly when the tank is mostly full. The day after my mechanic replaced the 0 rings, it was leaking again, so I brought it back and he couldn't determine where it was leaking. So, I brought the car to another mechanic that told me the 0 rings were done wrong, so he redid them. The next day, the car was leaking gas again, so I brought the car back (three days ago) to the mechanic. He tightened a "clamp" but the car continues to leak gas nearly everyday, but not continuous. Sometimes, it does not leak. When it leaks it literally pours from somewhere near the fuel rail/injectors. To me, it looks like the fuel line near the rail or the clamp. The terrible thing is that it doesn't ever leak like this for the mechanic. I videotaped the leak on my iPhone, but the mechanic told me it's too difficult for him to pinpoint where the leak is coming from unless he can see it leaking. Anyway, should I replace the fuel line? Regulator? Any suggestions as to why the leak is so intermittent would be much appreciated.
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    richzimmerichzimme Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, both mechanics are reputable. They are very well known franchises.
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    otovweotovwe Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 toyota camry, recently the consumption of fuel has been very high. The car consumes a full tank of fuel in less than 100miles. Initially I taught it was the plugs, but after changing the plugs the problem is still on. I noticed the new plugs have carbons and same with the exhault having huge deposit of carbon as well. What do I do to solve the problem.
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    otovweotovwe Member Posts: 2
    My toyota camry 2000 is cosuming so much fuel than it use to. I have tried changing the plugs but the problem is still on. The plugs deposits of carbon same with d exhaust. Which shows complete combustion is not taking place.
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    carhelp12carhelp12 Member Posts: 1
    I am having te same issue, did you ever find out what the problem was?
    thank you
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    auustsirianniauustsirianni Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2013
    I have a 1993 toyota camry, I recently changed the valve cover gaskets and a few other things.Here is my question: Before puttng the intake back on, I noticed a wire on the rear fuel rail and it was broken off. Looking into the firewall area, I only saw a connector and want to know if I broke the connection when I had to pull the wiring harness almost out of the car to get to the rear plugs and the rear valve cover bolts. I have worked on engines for over 50 years, and this v6 camry is the most difficult vehicle I have ever worked on. Can someone give me a idea where that wire needs to be reconnected to? Thank you I reexamined the wiring harness and that wire comes out of a slot in the harness itself. Could not be connected to the fuel rail harness, so it must connect to something else down under the firewall area, does that make any sense?
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